The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • HQ Sixteen: Improved Anchor

    HQ Sixteen: Improved Anchor

    The original anchor / weight keeping the HQ Sixteen from rolling away suffered a disastrous fall, so I conjured a much better-looking replacement from the vasty digital deep:

    HQ Sixteen - improved anchor
    HQ Sixteen – improved anchor

    The handle and fancy nut came from the deceased pepper mill, sitting on laser-cut acrylic in a 3D printed base, with a drawer liner disk peeking out from underneath.

    The orange disk in the solid model represents the steel slug harvested from the old anchor:

    HQ Sixteen Anchor - solid model - Show view
    HQ Sixteen Anchor – solid model – Show view

    A ring of hot-melt glue under the weight keeps it from rattling around in there, with the snug-fitting central post encouraging good positioning. I made the acrylic lid sit flush with the top of the base by the simple expedient of running another ring of glue around it, plunking the base + weight atop it on a flat surface, then taking a deep breath while the glue solidified. The nut & screw thus compress a solid stack of acrylic + glue + steel + glue + PETG-CF, rather than just parts flying in formation.

    The OpenSCAD source code also produces a pair of outlines for laser-cutting the adhesive sheet and acrylic, suitable for export to an SVG file:

    HQ Sixteen Anchor - solid model - cuts
    HQ Sixteen Anchor – solid model – cuts

    They’re offset inward by amounts appropriate for my CO₂ laser:

    if (Layout == "Cuts") {
      left(BaseOD/2 + Gap)
        offset(r=-1.0)
          circle(d=BaseOD);
      right(Cap[OD]/2 + Gap)
        offset(r=-0.2/2)
          projection()
            tube(1.0,id=Cap[ID],od=Cap[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    

    It might be prudent to apply those offsets to the original outlines in LightBurn or whatever you use for lasering.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Anchor block for HQ Sixteen
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2026-09-29
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build,Cuts]
    /* [Hidden] */
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    Gap = 10.0/2; // build platform minimum spacing
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 8*3*2*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    // Sizes
    Screw = [5.5,25.5,5.0]; // 10-24 screw + washer holding it together
    Weight = [11.0,80.0,11.5]; // stamped steel slug
    Cap = [26.0,Weight[OD],5.5]; // acrylic disk with handle hole
    BaseFloor = 10.0;
    BaseOD = 90.0; // printed anchor
    Spacing = 25.0; // Show view separation
    //———-
    // Model things
    module Housing() {
    tube(Screw[LENGTH],id=Screw[OD],od=BaseOD,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP) {
    tube(Weight[LENGTH],id=Screw[ID],od=Weight[ID],anchor=BOTTOM); // weight bushing
    tube(BaseFloor – Screw[LENGTH],id=Screw[ID],od=BaseOD,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    tube(Cap[LENGTH] + Weight[LENGTH],id=Cap[OD],od=BaseOD,anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    }
    //———-
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    Housing();
    color("Orange",0.7)
    up(BaseFloor + Spacing)
    tube(Weight[LENGTH],id=Weight[ID],od=Weight[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
    color("Gray",0.8)
    up(BaseFloor + 2*Weight[LENGTH] + Spacing)
    tube(Cap[LENGTH],id=Cap[ID],od=Cap[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    if (Layout == "Cuts") {
    left(BaseOD/2 + Gap)
    offset(r=-1.0)
    circle(d=BaseOD);
    right(Cap[OD]/2 + Gap)
    offset(r=0.2/2)
    projection()
    tube(1.0,id=Cap[ID],od=Cap[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    Housing();
    }

  • Furnace Zone Shutoff Valve

    Furnace Zone Shutoff Valve

    The upstairs baseboard heating loop collected enough air to frustrate the circulator pump, so I had to close the zone shutoff valve and open the drain valve to flush enough water through the plumbing to get the bubbles out:

    Furnace zone drain and shutoff valves
    Furnace zone drain and shutoff valves

    Except: turning that little slotted stem required more torque than I was willing to apply. It may have last been turned a decade ago, during the final furnace servicing on record, but we’ll never know its story.

    Furnace zone shutoff valve
    Furnace zone shutoff valve

    Three days of dripping Kroil penetrating oil onto the shutoff valve stems and, just in case, their pipe threads, along with applying the maximum torque I was willing to apply, did the trick, albeit with a distressing amount of squeaking.

    A hose from the drain valve to the sump pump pit took care of the outgoing water, flushing proceeded uneventfully, a test firing put hot water into the baseboard, and I could declare victory for the oncoming heating season.

    For the record, this was an occasion justifying use of a slotted bit from my Brownell’s Magna-Tip Super Set:

    Furnace zone shutoff valve - stem slot
    Furnace zone shutoff valve – stem slot

    It’s not a perfect fit, but much less sloppy than any other screwdriver in the shop: this is one valve I do not want to abuse.

  • Cocoa Powder Shrinkflation

    Cocoa Powder Shrinkflation

    Last year, five pounds of cocoa powder cost $40:

    Healthworks Cacao Powder - 2025
    Healthworks Cacao Powder – 2025

    This year, five pounds of cocoa powder costs $60:

    Healthworks Cacao Powder - 2026
    Healthworks Cacao Powder – 2026

    You can reconcile the 1/7.5 reduction in “Serving size” with the 4.7 increase in “Servings per container” by noting the latter matches the 14/3 per-serving weight ratio, not the volume ratio everybody uses. Both bags contain 5 lb of cocoa and have about the same volume; if anything, the newer bag is slightly bulkier.

    However, slashing the amount of cocoa in their recipe by a factor of 3 guarantees a truly bland result. Maybe it’s just a missing “b”, a typo that could happen to anyone?

    Trust, but verify.

  • Shower Squeegee Hanger

    Shower Squeegee Hanger

    Perhaps a 3 mm spacer behind the Command Hook holding the shower squeegee to the stall will let the blade dry out between uses:

    Shower Squeegee Hanger - installed
    Shower Squeegee Hanger – installed

    It’s fluorescent green acrylic, because why not?

    As with all such things, start with a scan of the base:

    Command Hook - base scan
    Command Hook – base scan

    Then:

    • Import into LightBurn
    • Draw a rectangle fitting the base
    • Convert to a path
    • Node Edit to put the corner nodes on the perimeter
    • Tweak node handles to match curves to perimeter
    • Fire The Laser

    Contrary to what I expected, the base is not symmetric.

    The layout includes another, slightly inset, path to cut a matching shape of 3M 300LSE adhesive to stick the Command Hook onto the acrylic:

    Shower Squeegee Hanger - spacer plate
    Shower Squeegee Hanger – spacer plate

    You could stick a rectangle of 300LSE to the acrylic and cut both in one operation, but making the sheet slightly smaller prevents sticky edges, at the cost of aligning the cut sheet on the fly.

    The Command Hook’s base is not flat, even after mostly removing the remainder of the previous Hook adhesive, so the 300LSE didn’t bond across the whole thing. If water weakens the bond and it falls off the wall (surely in the middle of the night), the next time around I’ll sand the base flat.

  • Printed Fragment Coaster: Delamination and Pinhole

    Printed Fragment Coaster: Delamination and Pinhole

    Although “chipboard” is also known as “beer mat”, it’s not intended for long-term use under sweaty mugs. After a few weeks of daily use, this is obviously out of spec:

    Printed Fragment Coaster - moisture damage
    Printed Fragment Coaster – moisture damage

    The aforementioned sweaty mug lifted part of a fragment off the coaster:

    Printed Fragment Coaster - delamination
    Printed Fragment Coaster – delamination

    The chipboard is Quickboard from Makerstock, which is basically recycled-fiber chipboard with the advantage of being through-dyed in cheerful colors. It’s described as “2 mm-thick, three-layered board” and it looks like the core delaminated from the bottom layer.

    Seeing as how it’s near the end of Sweaty Mug season, I smeared Elmer’s Glue Stick PVA adhesive over the fragment, stuck it back in place, and declared victory.

    While doing that, however, I noticed a pinhole:

    Printed Fragment Coaster - delamination detail
    Printed Fragment Coaster – delamination detail

    You may recall the outline came from hand-tracing a fragment of smashed glass in GIMP to get a path, then 3D printing a base to hold it:

    Printed Coaster - Set C - oblique
    Printed Coaster – Set C – oblique

    Going back to the original GIMP tracing (storage being cheap, never delete anything), I missed a pixel:

    Printed Fragment Set C - GIMP selection - errant pixel
    Printed Fragment Set C – GIMP selection – errant pixel

    Surely you can see it, particularly because you know exactly where it is. Right?

    The (degenerate) path around that pixel becomes a tiny vector in LightBurn:

    Printed Fragment Coaster - Set C - orphan vector
    Printed Fragment Coaster – Set C – orphan vector

    It’s easier to see there. Right?

    Whereupon LightBurn dutifully punched a pinhole through the chipboard, because that’s what I asked it to do. It also punched that pinhole into the metallized paper reflector under the smashed glass fragment, but I didn’t notice it then, either.

    Shrinking the GIMP selection by one pixel width, then growing it by one pixel would eliminate single-pixel selections: just another item on the to-do list while tracing fragments.

    Ya learn something new every day around here …

  • Another Snowflake Coaster Reaches EOL

    Another Snowflake Coaster Reaches EOL

    Apparently a year in the bathroom under a cup with constant moisture is enough to ruin untreated wood inlaid in an acrylic coaster:

    Mildew on wood snowflake coaster
    Mildew on wood snowflake coaster

    A small 3D printed chipboard fragment coaster now enters service:

    Printed Fragment Coaster - small
    Printed Fragment Coaster – small

    I recently ran into an interesting chipboard failure suggesting this one won’t last forever, so the clock is ticking.

    About which, more later.

  • Dog Paw Coaster

    Dog Paw Coaster

    Start with a picture of a dog paw:

    Dog Paw Coaster - starting picture
    Dog Paw Coaster – starting picture

    Rescale the paw to about 100 mm vertically to properly fit a normal-size glass / tumbler / mug. This may be considerably larger than life, but dog owners always want more dog, so it’ll work.

    Generate an outline mask in GIMP:

    Dog Paw Coaster - paw mask
    Dog Paw Coaster – paw mask

    Generate another mask for the pads & toenails:

    Dog Paw Coaster - pad mask
    Dog Paw Coaster – pad mask

    Convert those into paths, save them as SVG files, and hand them to OpenSCAD:

    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    /* [Hidden] */
    
    PadThick = 1.2;
    BaseThick = 2.0;
    
    RimHeight = 0.4;
    RimWidth = 0.8;
    RimOffset = 1.0;
    
    Clearance = 0.1;    // embiggen pad recesses
    
    OutlineFN = "Dog Paw - Outline.svg";
    PadFN = "Dog Paw - Pads.svg";
    
    union() {
    
    
      linear_extrude(h=BaseThick)
        import(OutlineFN);
    
      color("Green")
        up(BaseThick)
          linear_extrude(h=PadThick)
            difference() {
              import(OutlineFN);
              offset(r=Clearance)
                import(PadFN);
            }
    
      
    }
    

    Which will get you a solid model like this:

    Dog Paw Coaster - OpenSCAD model
    Dog Paw Coaster – OpenSCAD model

    Should you want decorative raised rims around the perimeter and pads:

    Dog Paw Coaster - raised rim - OpenSCAD model
    Dog Paw Coaster – raised rim – OpenSCAD model

    Then turn this on:

    if (false)
      color("Red")
        up(BaseThick + PadThick)
          linear_extrude(h=RimHeight) {
            difference() {
              offset(r=RimOffset + RimWidth)
                import(PadFN);
              offset(r=RimWidth)
                import(PadFN);
            }
            difference() {
              offset(r=-RimOffset)
                import(OutlineFN);
              offset(r=-(RimOffset + RimWidth))
                import(OutlineFN);
            }
          }
    

    Run the solid model through PrusaSlicer, send it to the MK4, and, while the printer is buzzing away, run the pads through an online nesting program to see how well that works:

    Dog Paw Coaster - Pads nesting - LightBurn layout
    Dog Paw Coaster – Pads nesting – LightBurn layout

    While nesting didn’t save much material, it might come in handy for something more intricate and now I’ll be able to find it again.

    Then get busy:

    • Stick adhesive sheet to the chipboard
    • Mirror the pads to cut adhesive side up
    • Cut the pads, rescue a toenail from the chip tray
    • Import the paw outline SVG
    • Offset 0.75 mm inward
    • Stick adhesive sheet on the cork
    • Cut paw outline (adhesive up, but not mirrored!)
    • Peel & stick

    Which turned out pretty good:

    Dog Paw Coaster - assembled
    Dog Paw Coaster – assembled

    I used Concentric infill on the top to resemble the fur pattern, but it came out way too subtle.

    The owner liked it, though, which made it all worthwhile.