The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Hearing

I’m not in denial. How about you?

  • Nuheara IQbuds² MAX: User Notes

    Nuheara IQbuds² MAX: User Notes

    A friend with declining hearing asked for my experiences with the Nuheara IQbuds² MAX I’ve been re-batterying for quite some years:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 - battery replacement
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 – battery replacement

    Given that other folks may have the same issue, herewith a lightly edited version of the email I sent:

    Do you use conventional hearing aids?

    Nope, because when I was looking around, maybe six years ago, dropping $500 on Nuheara rather than $5000 on real hearing aids seemed like a good first step. Five Benjamins would be lost in the roundoff should I get something seriously exceedingly much more definitely better.

    They are now $200 from Amazon. Nuheara had licensed the design to HP and stopped selling them in the US, which is what you’ll find on their website, so maybe the Amazon seller isn’t entirely legit.

    My decision was partially based on an audiologist measuring my ears and stating my loss was “not aidable”, which meant it wasn’t severe enough to justify hearing aids. I interpreted that to mean her experience with similar folks showed insufficient return for the sales effort involved.

    Before OTC hearing aids were legit, Nuheara was rated very near the top of the “not really hearing a hearing aid” pack. The better ones cost about half the price of real hearing aids, so IMO it was the best cost-performer.

    Every time the question has come up since then, the crux is “Would real hearing aids be that much better than the Nuheara buds” and the answer has been “Nope”.

    I’ve done occasional test sessions with various “hearing instrument specialists” and the results show I have essentially no hearing above 1 kHz, thus reducing female voices to mumbles. They are unwilling to test my hearing while wearing the Nuheara buds, for obvious reasons.

    Do you use Nuheara instead?

    Pretty much whenever Mary is around, because that’s the only way I’ll understand what she’s saying unless we’re face-to-face in the same room.

    The noise reduction (see below) works wonderfully well in the car, eliminating all the road noise and isolating her voice.

    experience and any advice

    Unlike simple “personal sound amplifiers”, Nuheara has a six-band equalizer with settings based on an automated “Tap when you hear the tone” test done in the app. It does not, much to my frustration, display a line graph or export the numbers, but the circular diagram shows I don’t have much hearing above the lowest two channels:

    Nuheara Ear ID - 2026-0811
    Nuheara Ear ID – 2026-0811

    I think the lower quarter of each side the rings is cosmetic filler, given the silence I hear when the test is surely presenting the higher frequency tones. If there’s a lower score than what I get, I cannot imagine what it might be for.

    The buds have a high/low cut filter to reduce background sounds that works wonderfully on the ubiquitous 120 Hz hum anywhere in North America. I obviously don’t have much use for the high-cut filter setting.

    The “Speech in Noise Control” applies DSP magic to reduce general background sound and emphasize speech, which is more complex than a simple frequency filter: SINC is astonishingly effective. What comes through the DSP magic isn’t audiophile quality, but it’s comprehensible and that’s what counts.

    The downside: I hear nothing other than speech while it’s engaged. When we have supper on the screened porch, there is no background sound other than occasional traffic until I disable the filter and SINC, whereupon I can hear the breeze rustle the leaves / birds chirping / Vassar carillon chimes / stuff like that. Fair tradeoff, IMO.

    The DSP monitors ambient sound and adjusts the overall gain to reduce the in-ear volume. My normal settings turn the water stream from the kitchen faucet into deafening white noise, but the gain drops after a few seconds and I’m effectively deaf. This also applies when we’re walking outdoors, with any wind noise in the microphones turning the gain down enough that I hear just as poorly with the buds as I do without them.

    The buds can stream audio from the phone and the equalizer applies to phone calls / music / whatever. Real hearing aids tend to not stream audio, because Bluetooth requires bigger batteries. Getting phone calls with adjusted audio in both ears is wonderful.

    The buds also have “tap” controls to start / stop streaming, raise / lower volume, and (most importantly) enable / disable “world audio” = I can mute the sound before I start doing something noisy. The “world off” = active noise cancellation isn’t perfect, but it’s Good Enough for most purposes.

    I wear them under Peltor 28 dB hearing protectors (which cost 25 bucks two years ago sold by Amazon, so beware scalpers) while mowing: the muffs knock down all sounds and the buds remove what’s left. I can then stream music at reasonable volume to make mowing easier.

    Those big batteries make the buds heavy in the ear, but it seems the same batteries appear in audio-only buds, so they may be the smallest ones that get the job done.

    A good ear canal seal is essential and I’ve gone through several different “brands” on Amazon before finding effective foam tips.

    Bottom line: I have no experience with their competition, but the Nuheara buds do everything I have ever read other buds / real hearing aids can do. Color me satisfied.

  • Nuheara IQbuds² MAX Battery Replacement: Round 3

    Nuheara IQbuds² MAX Battery Replacement: Round 3

    The OEM lithium batteries in my Nuheara IQbuds² MAX not-really-hearing-aids lasted for about 2-½ years before needing replacement. Two more years pretty well did those in and I replaced them again without fanfare about a year ago.

    After replacing the 802050 pouch battery in the charging case and having discovered two spare LIR1654 batteries at the back of a workbench, I installed those and renewed the gaffer tape holding the earbuds together:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 - battery replacement
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 – battery replacement

    The workbench stash also disgorged the old Varta LIR1654 batteries, but not the OEM ones, so a test session seemed in order:

    Lithium LIR1654
    Lithium LIR1654

    The Varta batteries (red and blue traces) are in sad shape, after two years of regular use and another three years idling in a small bag. The EEMB batteries (pink and cyan traces) are in better shape, despite their year of use, with the lower pair of traces showing their as-extracted charge and the upper three traces their just-charged capacity.

    They’re still doing better than their 0.4 W·hr nominal capacity, which is not to be sniffed at, particularly as the tester’s minimum 150 mA current presents a rather stiff load for a 100-ish mA·hr cell.

    This being a quick-n-dirty set of tests, a simple discharging “fixture” sufficed:

    LIR1654 battery discharge clamp
    LIR1654 battery discharge clamp

    The charging “fixture” wasn’t much fancier:

    LIR1654 battery charge clamp
    LIR1654 battery charge clamp

    The EEMB batteries are in the bag and may remain in good shape after two more years, ready for another tour in the earbuds when their relatives wear out.

  • Nuheara IQbuds² MAX Charging Case Battery Replacement

    Nuheara IQbuds² MAX Charging Case Battery Replacement

    After five years of daily use, the lithium battery in the charging case of my Nuheara IQbuds² MAX they’re-not-hearing-aids earbuds began absorbing far more energy during its overnight recharges than the usual 100-ish mA·hr. This isn’t unexpected and, of course, Nuheara specifically mentions their batteries are not replaceable, so just toss the earbuds in the e-waste stream and buy another set.

    Having already replaced the smaller and harder-working lithium batteries in the earbuds twice, that’s just useless information … and something of a challenge.

    So, we begin.

    The lower part of the hinged case holds all the good stuff, with that blank hump obviously covering a great place for a battery:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - overview
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – overview

    The bands around the earbuds are strips of gaffer tape holding their halves together after replacing their batteries. In this application, gaffer tape works much better than duct tape.

    There being no obvious screws, wedging a thumbnail into the joint just above the Micro-B USB jack proved promising. Doing the same on the other side produced enough of a gap to force a flat steel blade in there; further prying popped the snaps (red):

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - snaps and glues
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – snaps and glues

    The green ovals mark places where the case halves were glued together, accounting for some of the struggle.

    The two neodymium magnets in the front corners grab similar magnets in the upper cover to hold the case closed. The two magnets along the front edge grab magnets in the earbuds to hold them in the pockets, with more magnets flanking the gold-ish pogo pins visible in the first picture for better connections. If you’re concerned about the health effects of static magnetic fields, get over it.

    The battery was glued in place, so the first position after cracking the case apart must look like this:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - pried open
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – pried open

    Yes. Yes, that is five years of earwax. You’ll note the lack of a seal at the bottom of the tunnels guiding the foam earbud tips: any and all particles falling off the earbuds have a direct path to the interior of the case.

    Easing the battery from its restraints reveals the data plate:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - snap and glue locationsNuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - 802050 lithium cell
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – snap and glue locationsNuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – 802050 lithium cell

    The reflections in the pouch’s now-curved upper surface show the battery has become a Spicy Pillow.

    Somewhat to my surprise, 802050 batteries are available from the usual sources.

    Unwrapping several layers of kapton tape exposed the battery protection PCB:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - battery management PCB
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – battery management PCB

    Comfortingly, the DW01 topmark on the upper IC says it’s a battery protection IC and the 8205A topmark on the lower IC indicates a dual MOSFET switching the battery current off during shutdowns. I did not trace the circuitry, but the white wire might control the DW01 CS terminal.

    The solder side:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - BMS solder joints
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – BMS solder joints

    The new battery had a similar protection PCB with two wires. Rather than argue the point, I snipped its (welded!) battery tabs and transplanted the Nuheara PCB to the new battery, adding 30 AWG jumpers because the new tabs were shorter than the old ones:

    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case - new battery installed
    Nuheara IQBudsMax2 charging case – new battery installed

    The strangely empty space to the right of the battery is just big enough for the protection PCB and all the kapton wrappings. The various plastic tabs around the battery hold it in place, so I did not renew its glue.

    Similarly, the four case snaps do a great job of holding the halves together, so they’re not glued, either.

    An overnight charge brought the case back to life and it’s once again working fine. However, the earbuds may be due for their third battery refresh.

    I love a happy ending!

  • Switchyard Hum

    Switchyard Hum

    For reasons not relevant here, I walked along IBM Rd to the end of Sand Dock Rd and back, passing the switchyard serving the IBM Poughkeepsie site:

    Street View - 1 Sand Dock Rd
    Street View – 1 Sand Dock Rd

    The overall capacity is surely in the tens of megawatts and there’s an overwhelming hum coming down that driveway:

    Switchyard hum
    Switchyard hum

    Those peaks and the corresponding lines in the waterfall show the equipment emits acoustic energy all the way up to about 480 Hz, call it the eighth harmonic of 60 Hz.

    Transformer steel has low magnetostriction, which produces most of the noise at even harmonics of the 60 Hz power line (because each cycle has two current maxima). The spectrogram shows the switchyard handles enough current to emit plenty of odd harmonic energy, with a notable peak at 180 Hz.

    For comparison, standing a few feet from the transformer behind a medical office building along IBM Rd:

    Transformer hum
    Transformer hum

    No 180 Hz energy from that transformer!

    Moving a few feet further away dropped those peaks into the background.

    Even with my deflicted ears, I think can hear the switchyard hum from a considerable distance along the road, so maybe the background isn’t as quiet as I think.

  • Nuheara IQbuds² MAX vs. Bose Hearphones

    Nuheara IQbuds² MAX vs. Bose Hearphones

    [Update: I pointed to this post in a comment on the Bose Community forum, wherein I mentioned the lack of Bluetooth in their Sound Control hearing aids. It seems “Posts on any board, including Hearphones, on the Bose Community regarding the Bose SoundControl Hearing Aids will be removed by our moderators”, so they edited out those paragraphs. Fair enough: it’s their playground, so they set the rules’]

    Having recently bought a set of Nuheara IQbuds² MAX hearing assistance buds, I get “So, what do you think?” invitations to leave a review. As expected, the third-party company handling the reviews will strip-mine my personal bits for their own ends; I see plenty of upside for them and none for me.

    So these brief notes, compiled before I read the Okendo TOS, should serve the same purpose as an actual review, minus the nonsense of providing even more of my sensitive bits.

    Bose discontinued their Hearphones last year. While I’m reasonably happy with how mine work, they seem to last about a year before something fails. Bose replaced the first unit after its covering delaminated, replaced the second unit when a wire failed in the left microphone, and the third unit is now approaching one year of steady use.

    The Hearphone necklace curled around the IQbuds charging case:

    Bose Hearphones - Nuheara IQbuds2 MAX
    Bose Hearphones – Nuheara IQbuds2 MAX

    Comparing the IQBuds² MAX to the Bose Hearphones:

    • Heavier in the ears, but without the necklace
    • Poor battery runtime, both have non-replaceable batteries
    • Poor ear seal with silicone tips, OK with Nuheara’s foam tips
    • Immediate access to “World off” mode!
    • “World off” mode seems noisier, even with ANC on
    • Better dynamic noise control / filtering

    The tradeoff for not having the Bose necklace is, of course, carrying a smaller battery in each ear. Everybody’s claimed run times are optimistic, but after a year the Hearphones still last the better part of a day, while new IQbuds generate range anxiety after a morning and must then spend a while recharging in their case.

    The stock IQbud silicone tips exert entirely too much pressure on my ear canals. The foam tips produce a much better seal and were easier to wear for more than a few hours. The Bose “Stayhear” shaped silicone tips fit much better and suppress external sound just as well as the IQbud foam tips.

    Replacing the stock IQbuds foam tips (described as “Comply memory foam”) with actual Comply memory foam tips directly from Comply was a definite step up that should not be necessary; they are similar, but visibly different. According to Comply’s online fit selector, you need their Isolation T-167 Sennheiser-specific tips, even though Nuheara hardware appears in Comply’s selector.

    The IQbuds tap controls, except for the simplest single tap, barely work. I cannot perform a double-tap, because the bud registers the first tap as a single tap and either discards the second tap or registers it as another single tap. Long taps generally work, except when they don’t, having nothing to do with tap duration or force. Tech support tells me the buds use the audio signal to determine when a finger taps the bud, but AFAICT tap sensitivity is much too high and the discrimination entirely too unfussy.

    Amusingly, nibbling dark chocolate can produce exactly the correct audio signal to trigger the “World off” tap in the right bud and, occasionally, the “Play / Pause” tap in the left bud. I rest my case.

    For someone requiring far more audio gain than a typical hipster, firmly tapping an ear bud is an … uncomfortable … user interface.

    Fortunately, a single correctly executed tap on the right bud mutes the microphones and turns on Active Noise Cancellation; the Hearphones bury that vital function on a tiny icon inside the Bose app, requiring many seconds to start and activate.

    The IQbuds app (and, presumably, the bud firmware) does not allow assigning any tap function to any bud + tap pattern. For example, there’s no way to access both “change location” and “change focus” by tapping, because both those functions can be activated only by the right bud’s long tap: you may select one or the other. Weirdly, volume and media controls appear nearly everywhere and, if double taps worked, they’d be useful.

    The Hearphones are much better at muting relatively quiet ambient sound, to the extent that I thought the IQbud “World off” function didn’t work. It does, even though it seems tuned to suppress much higher noise levels. Both do a surprisingly good job suppressing loud yard tools, perhaps due to my inability to hear frequencies over a few kHz.

    The IQbud noise suppression exhibits horrible gain pumping in noisy environments and windy conditions. It rolls off the overall gain and filters the higher frequencies as the ambient noise increases, then restores them in a rush as the noise subsides: repeating the cycle as the noise level changes. This is very unpleasant and, AFAICT, there is no way to forcibly set a specific gain / bandwidth other than turning the suppression completely off, which misses the point.

    Bottom line: I use the IQbuds and they definitely help my hearing, but I don’t particularly like them.

    To be fair, I don’t like the Hearphones necklace very much, either, even though, overall, Bose did a better job with the actual earpieces.

  • Manjaro Linux vs. Dell Latitude E7250 Bluetooth

    Manjaro Linux vs. Dell Latitude E7250 Bluetooth

    Although the Dell Latitude E7250 allegedly had Bluetooth capability and the Blueman applet tried connecting to my Bluetooth headsets, the connection aways failed and nothing worked. There’s a WLAN module stuck in an M.2 socket inside the laptop providing both WiFi and Bluetooth:

    Dell E7250 - DW1560 card in place
    Dell E7250 – DW1560 card in place

    A bit of searching suggested the driver wasn’t loading properly, which became obvious after I knew where to look:

    dmesg | grep -i blue
    … snippage …
    [    5.678610] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM20702A1 (001.002.014) build 1572
    [    5.678851] bluetooth hci0: Direct firmware load for brcm/BCM20702A1-0a5c-216f.hcd failed with error -2
    [    5.678853] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM: Patch brcm/BCM20702A1-0a5c-216f.hcd not found
    [   10.854607] Bluetooth: RFCOMM TTY layer initialized
    [   10.854613] Bluetooth: RFCOMM socket layer initialized
    [   10.854619] Bluetooth: RFCOMM ver 1.11

    Without having the proper firmware / patch loaded, the module won’t work, even though the TTY / socket layers know it’s present, which explains why Blueman did everything except actually connect to the headsets.

    More searching suggested you must extract the firmware HEX file from the Windows driver. Feeding the Service Tag into the Dell support site, then feeding “Bluetooth” and “Windows 8.1, 64-bit” (preinstalled on the laptop) into the Drivers & Downloads tab gets you the relevant EXE file: Dell Wireless 1550/1560 Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Driver. It turns out to be a self-extracting ZIP file (in Windows, anyway), so unzip it all by yourself:

    unzip Network_Driver_5DFVH_WN32_6.30.223.262_A03.EXE

    This produces a blizzard of HEX files in the newly created Drivers/production/Windows8.1-x64 directory. Each firmware HEX file is keyed to the USB Product Code identifying the unique USB gadget, found with lsusb:

    lsusb
    … snippage …
    Bus 002 Device 003: ID 0a5c:216f Broadcom Corp. BCM20702A0 Bluetooth
    … snippage …

    The DW1560 apparently has a USB RAM interface, with the specific HEX file identified in the CopyList stanza of the INF file corresponding to that USB Product Code:

    grep -i -A 5  ramusb216f.copylist Drivers/production/Windows8.1-x64/bcbtums-win8x64-brcm.inf
    [RAMUSB216F.CopyList]
    bcbtums.sys
    btwampfl.sys
    BCM20702A1_001.002.014.1443.1572.hex
    … snippage …

    However, the Linux firmware loader needs a different file format with a different name, mashed together from the HEX file, USB Vendor, and USB Product codes:

    hex2hcd -o BCM20702A1-0a5c-216f.hcd BCM20702A1_001.002.014.1443.1572.hex

    The converted firmware file goes where the loader expected to find it:

    sudo cp BCM20702A1-0a5c-216f.hcd /lib/firmware/brcm/

    Whereupon next reboot sorted things out:

    dmesg | grep -i blue
    [    6.024838] Bluetooth: Core ver 2.22
    [    6.024868] Bluetooth: HCI device and connection manager initialized
    [    6.024872] Bluetooth: HCI socket layer initialized
    [    6.024874] Bluetooth: L2CAP socket layer initialized
    [    6.024881] Bluetooth: SCO socket layer initialized
    [    6.100796] Bluetooth: BNEP (Ethernet Emulation) ver 1.3
    [    6.100800] Bluetooth: BNEP filters: protocol multicast
    [    6.100804] Bluetooth: BNEP socket layer initialized
    [    6.157114] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM: chip id 63
    [    6.158125] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM: features 0x07
    [    6.176119] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM20702A
    [    6.177114] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM20702A1 (001.002.014) build 0000
    [    7.031228] Bluetooth: hci0: BCM20702A1 (001.002.014) build 1572
    [    7.047177] Bluetooth: hci0: DW1560 Bluetooth 4.0 LE
    [   13.141854] Bluetooth: RFCOMM TTY layer initialized
    [   13.141865] Bluetooth: RFCOMM socket layer initialized
    [   13.141872] Bluetooth: RFCOMM ver 1.11

    The firmware may be in one of the myriad Bluetooth packages not installed by default, so perhaps identifying & installing the proper package would sidestep the hocus-pocus.

    Maybe next time?

    Now I can wear my Bose Hearphones in Zoom sessions with the E7250, because my Pixel 3a phone heats up almost to the gets-bendy level while thrashing its battery to death.

  • Alead Telecoil Receiver: Magnetic Field Check

    I got an Alead / Nolan HearLinks (many adjectives) Telecoil receiver to boost my ability to hear music & presentations at Vassar, because they recently slotted telecoil loops into the floors of their public venues. It took a few concerts to get the appropriate volume setting, after which I wondered how sensitive the receiver was:

    Alead T-coil receiver - test setup
    Alead T-coil receiver – test setup

    The small T in the upper right corner marks the receiving coil location, with the coil oriented parallel to the body’s long axis. It’s the secondary winding of an air-core transformer with a single-turn (perhaps using Litz wire) primary embedded in the floor, with the induced voltage obeying the usual transformer equation:

    V = 2π µ₀ µr N A f H cos θ

    Definitions:

    • µ₀ – vacuum permeability = 4π×10-7 H/m
    • µr – relative permeability
    • N – number of turns
    • A – receiver loop area, m²
    • f – signal frequency, Hz
    • H – magnetomotive force, A/m
    • θ – angle between windings

    For a given installation and receiver position, pretty much everything is fixed, with the voltage depending only on the H field caused by the primary winding current.

    The induced voltage is linearly dependent on the frequency, but the transmitter equalization filters apparently flatten the spectrum to get equal receiver amplitude between about 100 Hz and 5 kHz.

    The coil in that picture has nine turns, with four passing through the Tek current probe. Applying 10 mVpp to the winding produces a corresponding current:

    JDS6600 10mVpp 1 kHz - 4 turns - 1 mA-div
    JDS6600 10mVpp 1 kHz – 4 turns – 1 mA-div

    The scope sees 14 mVpp = 1.4 div at 1 mA/div = 1.4 mA. Dividing by 4 turns means the coil actually carries 350 µA. The signal generator has a 50 Ω output impedance, so 10 mV should produce about 200 µA, which seems a bit low. On the other paw, the signal generator sees the coil as a dead short at 1 kHz, so I don’t trust the numbers.

    Whatever magnetic flux it may be produces a 1 kHz tone at a somewhat higher volume (for the same receiver setting) than the fancy Vassar loops, so the flux is in the right ballpark. With a bit more attention to detail, perhaps I can tinker up a current-mode loop drive amplifier.

    The Alead receiver has an internally generated tick audible at the audio volume I need for the Vassar loops, which is 5 to 7 steps down from the maximum volume at 15 steps. It seems related to the internal Bluetooth hardware, although it’s present even when the receiver is not paired with my Pixel phone and, in fact, is unchanged even when 100 feet from the nearest electronic device.

    When I reported the problem, they said:

    Yes, you can hear very minor tick sound on telecoil mode. It is caused by some electronic and current to make those tick sound. Sorry for this defective on the design.

    It had one job that it doesn’t do well, so it’s on the way back for a refund.

    Evidently, I must build an audio loop receiver to get what I want …