The cut is just in front of the PCB and went slowly to avoid clobbering the SMD resistors very near the edge.
The cataract turned out to be crud adhered to the LED lens:
Brutal surgery removed the LED and installed a replacement:
The PCB had two 150 Ω SMD resistors for use with 12-ish V automotive batteries. While I had the hood up, I removed one and shorted across its pads to make the LED work with the 6 V switched headlight supply from the Bafang motor.
In round numbers, 6 V minus 2.2 V forward drop divided by 150 Ω is about 25 mA. The original LED ran at 35-ish mA, but it’s close enough.
Glue the lens back in place:
The bubbly stuff is solid epoxy from the original assembly, which is why removing the PCB is not an option.
The new LED is no more off-center than any of the others:
It does, however, sit much closer to the lens, due to the ring of plastic I cut away to get inside. As a result, the beam is mostly a single centered lobe with only hints of the five side lobes; there isn’t much waste light from the side of the LED into those facets.
On a typical bike, it mounts against a cable stop with the cable housing holding it in place against its other end:
The Terry Symmetry has only two lengths of housing: in front of the adjuster on the downtube and behind the stop brazed to the chainstay. In either position, the sensor would move as the shift cable flexed and (IMO) put unreasonable stress on the electrical cable running to the motor.
Yes, the Tour Easy has those same two lengths of housing, but the forward one joins a sheaf of wires & cables that barely moves.
Fortunately, the sensor fits neatly between stations 1 and 2 along the downtube, with a snippet of PTFE lIned housing holding it firmly in place, with the 3D printed battery mounting blocks including paths for both cables:
The shift cable originally ran from the adjuster in the front to the guide under the bottom bracket along a slightly diagonal path I could not possibly match. Instead, the path is now parallel to the downtube from the front adjuster:
.. to the rear block, where it angles downward over the motor to the bottom bracket:
The front block at station 1 has a Delrin / acetal bushing to align the cable with the rest of the blocks:
Yes, it’s a round peg jammed in a hexagonal hole:
Turning it from stock is well within the capabilities of Tiny Lathe™:
One of those LED spotlights may have barely outlasted its worthless warranty, but not by much, and has been languishing on the back of the bench with “Flickers hot” scrawled on its side.
The metal base didn’t respond to twisting, so I slit the threads with a cutoff wheel:
Applying the screwdriver removed the base to reveal a silicone rubber casting:
The small wire emerging near the edge of the plastic case seems to be the neutral contact to the shell, with a poor enough joint to suggest it might have been why the lamp flickered when it got hot.
Some brute force snapped the silicone off at the bottom of the plastic case and broke the two wires bringing AC to the PCB:
Digging around inside produced a debris field of silicone crumbs, broken resistors, torn caps, and various other components, with zero progress toward removing the shell:
A little lathe work converted a chunk of PVC pipe into a crude mandrel supporting the mangled case:
A few millimeters of sissy cuts released a silicone O-ring sealing the shell against the reflector:
Continuing the cuts eventually revealed the three screws holding the shell to the reflector and the two wires powering the LED:
Chopping off the screws with a diagonal cutter freed the shell and revealed the top of the PCB:
It really does have a surprising number of components!
Those three screws connected the LED panel / heatsink to the shell through the back of the double-walled reflector. More brute force peeled the outer shell away and released the panel:
Each of the 5050 packages contains a pair of white LEDs with 5.2 V forward drop for the pair, at the very low test current. They’re all in series, so you’re looking at well over 60 V total forward drop:
Installing the Bafang BBS02 motor on Mary’s Tour Easy replaced the triple chainring, so I removed the front derailleur and SRAM grip shifter. This produced enough room for the thumb throttle and a full-length handgrip on the left side:
The right handlebar still has the rear shifter, so it requires a shorter grip:
Although it may be possible to buy such a grip and, thereby, get a backup pair of mismatched grips, it seemed easier straightforward to just shorten the grip to the correct length and be done with it.
Saw off a convenient length of aluminum rod:
Although I actually used a steady rest to produce this, it happened during a remote Squidwrench meeting and I have no proof:
The 22.2 mm = 7/8 inch end matches the more-or-less standard handlebar diameter, so the grip clamp can get a good hold:
A live center supports the right end of the grip.
The red coating seems to be gooey silicone rubber molded atop a PVC tube. Rather than (try to) use a lathe bit to cut through the silicone, I cut two slits with a utility knife and the spindle turning slowly in reverse, then peeled off the rubber between the slits.
With the silicone out of the way, an ordinary cutoff tool made short work of the PVC:
That was a cleanup pass with the utility knife, as the cutoff tool left a slight flange around part of the circumference. If I had the courage of my convictions, I could probably have cut the PVC with the knife.
Chamfer the end of the cut, slide it on the handlebar, tighten the clamp, and it’s all good.
The alert reader will note the clamp should go on first, but that would produce an inconvenient lump against the right shifter. Sliding them on backwards puts the clamp at the end of the handlebar and works out better in this admittedly unusual situation.
Contemplating a project using a small saw in the Sherline suggested that attaching the workpiece to the side of a 123 block would simplify the machining. My blocks have a centered quintet of 3/8-16 tapped holes through the 2×3 side, all the remaining holes are untapped, and it has no smaller holes. The hole spacing doesn’t match the Sherline tooling plate, but the T-nut slots in the underlying table would suffice.
Rather than run long 10-32 screws through the entire block, It Would Be Nice to use short screws from, say, the nearest holes:
The holes through the blocks probably came from a 5/16 inch drill, the 75% thread depth diameter for the 3/8-16 taps used on the threaded holes. They’re distorted, full of debris, and hardened enough to kill a file, so I eventually settled on 8.2 mm pins that pass through most of the holes.
The socket head screws seat at the pin axis, because the pin diameter is scary close to the counterbore diameter and I didn’t see much point in finesse. I started with a half-inch aluminum rod and peeled it to size, because it simplified the clamping and I have a bunch of them.
The pins are 3/4 inch long to leave a little space on either side of the 1 inch deep holes. I started with comfort marks along the length of the rod:
Center-drill so the clearance drill doesn’t skitter off the top:
The counterbore calls for a 0.204 inch = #6 drill, just slightly larger than the #7 clearance drill for a 10-32 screw:
I touched off the counterbore flutes on the sides of the hole, then drilled downward half the 12.8 mm actual rod diameter:
Lower the counterbore into the hole again, relax the vise enough to let the rod slide, jog the spindle to X = -25.4 mm, and tighten the vise again:
I figured I needed four pins, tops, so make half a dozen to be sure:
Stick the rod in the mini-lathe chuck, add some comfort marks, and prepare to peel it down to 8.2 mm:
Having done the lathe work during a Squidwrench remote meeting, I have no pictures of the process, but it goes a little something like this:
Peel off 0.5 mm at a time, stopping just beyond the mark on the left
Mark 3/8 inch on each side of the hole center
Face the end
Chamfer the rim with a file
Clean up the body hole and counterbore
Part the pin off a bit to the left of the mark
Remove the rod
Chuck the pin with the cut off end outward
Face to the mark
Repeat for all six pins
It’s tedious, but not particularly difficult.
Futher doodling suggested the need for threaded pins to join two blocks together.
Although our Tour Easy recumbents use ordinary (*) V-brakes, their frame geometry doesn’t route the rear cable quite the way the brake designers expected. Mary’s Medium-Small frame always had its rear brake cable resting against the frame tube, where it bent slightly as she applied the brakes:
The squashed rubber boot suggests the brake arms are too close together, but that’s where they must be to hold the brake pads in the proper position, even with new pads and big spacer washers. As a result, the cable stop over on the right at the end of the noodle rests against the frame and dings the paint.
My first thought was to add some length to the end of the noodle inside the stirrup, so I made an adapter with the ID on the noodle end matching the OD on the fitting end:
Which worked poorly, because the noodle has a straight section leading up to the fitting inside the stirrup; any additional length pushes the noodle curve against the stirrup pivot and cants it out of line:
I’ve been avoiding the fallback plan of building a bigger noodle for years, but finally combined a foot of 3/32 inch brass tubing, a tube bender spring, and various large-diameter round-ish objects from the Basement Warehouse Wing:
I annealed the tube by running a torch along its length until the color changed to the obvious “I’m hot enough” copper color, then let it air-cool while I did something else. Brass work-hardens quickly and required two more annealings while finishing that smooth curve; as far as I know, brass doesn’t harden with the heat-and-quench cycle used for steel.
A little more lathe work produced a replacement fitting:
The hole is barely one diameter deep, but I think it’ll align the tube well enough for my simple needs. The failure will most likely involve having the cable chew through the inward side of the mis-aligned tube, which should become obvious in short order.
The fitting on the OEM noodle seems to be crimped in place, but I figure my version is unlikely to fall off in normal use:
Lined up thusly, you can see the reduced straight section behind my fitting and the much larger sweep out to the cable stop.
The OEM noodle had a (presumably) PTFE liner, so I adapted a length of PTFE brake cable liner by mashing the end with various conical objects until it kinda-sorta looked like the cable stop might capture the ragged flange:
Reassembling in reverse order produces a comforting sight:
Despite appearances, the new noodle sits below the frame and well above the chain in normal use. In the most extreme small-small cross gearing position the chain barely clears it, but the takeup arm on the rear derailleur starts clattering enough to remind us not to do that.
Brass is certainly not as strong as stainless (?) steel, although I think it ended up in a reasonably hard condition after all the bending. I’m certain neither of us can squeeze the brake lever enough to come anywhere close to causing a problem.
Making a noodle was easier than I expected and, in a month or so, we’ll see how it behaves under actual riding conditions.
(*) “Ordinary” as of many decades ago, because the design dates back to the mid-70s, when Fast Freddy Markham broke 65 mph on a rather customized Easy Racers Gold Rush.