The hulking 1/2 inch Jacobs chuck is grossly oversized for most of the holes I poke in things spinning in the lathe. I already have several smaller Jacobs chucks for the Sherline’s 1 MT spindle, so I got some Morse Taper Sleeve Adapters for the mini-lathe’s 2MT tailstock. They’re longer than the “short” 2MT dead center:
Because they’re longer, the tailstock ram loses nearly an inch of travel it can’t afford.
So I hacksawed the taper just beyond the opening at the tang and faced off the ragged end:
The steady rest jaws don’t match the Morse taper angle, but they’re way better than assuming the nose of the Jacob chuck can hold such an ungainly affair.
The short 1MT taper on the drill chuck doesn’t extend to the opening: when it’s firmly pushed into the socket, there’s no simple way to eject it. So, drill a small hole for a pin punch to pop it out:
I hate hammering on tooling, which means I must eventually enlarge the hole to clear a 5 mm bolt, make a square-ish nut to fit inside the slot, and gimmick up a plug for the 1/4-20 socket in the 1MT taper (used by the Sherline mill drawbar). More work than I want to take on right now, but it’ll provide some Quality Shop Time.
If the truth be known, I also got a 3/8-16 thread to 2MT adapter for the mid-size Jacobs chuck seen in the pictures, thus eliminating the thread-to-1MT adapter and plugging the chuck directly into the tailstock. The 1MT adapter will come in handy for the least Jacobs chuck; although LMS has a 0JT-to-2MT adapter, the less I monkey with that tiny taper, the better off we’ll both be.
They’re not all the same because the lad who’s building the plotter got to turn out his own bushings. We think the knurled version, with a setscrew to lock it on the shaft, will work better than adhesive-bonding the drum to the bushing.
The overall process starts with a rough 1/2 inch aluminum rod. Skim-cut to get a concentric surface and face the end smooth:
Then knurl it:
The skim cut makes the aluminum rod a loose fit inside the sanding band, but the knurling enlarges the diameter enough to make it a firm press fit and I think it’ll have enough traction to stay in place.
FWIW, the wheels in the LittleMachineShop knurling tool seem pretty bad: the central holes aren’t quite concentric with the cutting edge, the bores are a loose fit on the mounting screws, the wheels are much narrower than the slots they ride in, so they wobble uncontrollably. It’s not a fatal flaw, but they definitely produce a sub-par knurl.
Face off the front, cut the knurling down at each end, then part it off:
Clamp it in the Sherline mill, laser-spot the edges, set the origin in the middle, and center drill:
Drill and tap for a teeny M3 setscrew:
Clean out the chips, debur the hole, install the setscrew, and you’re half-done: do it again to get the second drive roller!
As part of coaching a student (and his father!) on their incredibly ambitious build-a-plotter-from-scratch project, I suggested
stealing using HP’s grit-wheel paper drive, rather than fiddling with guide rods to move either the pen carrier or the entire paper platform. Dremel sanding drums seem about the right size and they had an 8 mm shaft harvested from a defunct printer, so a pair of mounts moves the project along:
The motor mount code is a hack job from my old NEMA17 mount and the code has a lot not to like. The bearing mount puts the bearing on the proper centerline using brute force copypasta and depends on friction to hold it in place. The two models should be integrated into the same file, the shaft centerline shouldn’t involve the printed thread width, and blah blah blah:
I had him turn the shaft adapter from an aluminum rod in the mini-lathe: he’s hooked.
The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:
After dismantling the tailstock to apply the tweaks, it was grossly out of alignment, as seen from the top:
Seen from the side, the tailstock center is way too high:
No surprises there.
The object of the game is to make the tailstock bore collinear with the spindle bore in all four degrees of freedom:
- Yaw angle
- Pitch angle
The first step is to match those two points, then measure the angular error.
Loosen the (new!) screws holding the tailstock top & bottom castings together:
I set them snug enough to prevent casual motion and loose enough to allow adjustment with gentle taps from a plastic hammer. Tapping the top casting forward lined up the dead centers horizontally, leaving only the vertical alignment.
Then I clamped the tailstock’s bottom casting to the lathe bed:
Loosening the screws a bit more let me tilt the top casting to the left and slide a brass shim between the two castings, adding just a little more height to the left side to move the tailstock center downward.
This could do any or all of:
- Correct a pre-existing pitch angle so everything is fine again
- Pitch the tailstock ram axis out of line with respect to the spindle axis
- Confuse the issue
I started with a 6 mil = 0.15 mm shim that didn’t quite do enough and a 16 mil = 0.4 mm shim was a bit too much. Pinching a brass shimstock snippet between the centers show how they match front-back and don’t match up-down, with the tailstock center now too low:
Some back-and-forth fiddling showed a 10 mil = 0.25 mm sheet came out about right:
With the two linear degrees of freedom accounted for, measure the yaw angle by comparing the position of the tailstock ram’s far end:
With its near end:
Note: measure the offset by sliding the tailstock along the ways, not by retracting the ram. Reassuringly, the ram slides out parallel to its axis.
Measure the pitch angle, similarly:
As it turns out, the far end of the ram is 5 mils down and front from its base near the tailstock. Over 1.5 inches of travel, 5 mils works out to 0.19°.
Although it’s a small angle, the huge Jacob chuck supplied with the lathe puts a typical drill 125 mm from where you see the tailstock dead center’s tip. In round numbers, the drill point will be 16 mils low-and-front, about 25 mils radially off-center, which agrees reasonably well with what I actually see:
Because I don’t do much turning between centers, I retinkered the alignment to put a point held in the drill chuck on center. Deep hole drilling won’t work quite right, because the ram extends along those 0.19° angles, but it’s Good Enough for now. It’ll be much easier to correct the yaw misalignment than the height mismatch.
Those of you who read image metadata surely noticed the pix aren’t in ascending temporal order. Verily, this was an iterative process, with pix happening all along the way.
Filling the mini-lathe’s tailstock ways with epoxy made it slide easily and lock firmly. Some upcoming projects urged me to perform The Canonical Mini-Lathe Tailstock Upgrades, as shown nearly everywhere on the Intertubes and detailed in various HSM articles.
For unknown reasons, the screw clamping the tailstock’s top and bottom castings together threads into the top casting from below:
Although it’s faintly possible you could adjust it by reaching up from below the bed, it’s easier to just drill out the threads for a clearance fit around a 5 mm SHCS:
The drill went through the tailstock so easily I think the hole had been capped with body filler, which would eliminate the need for a bottoming tap.
Then build a square nut from a slice of 7/16 inch square stock:
… and be done with it:
If the tailstock ever needs more adjustment range, I can knock those corners down a bit.
The screw clamps the castings vertically, with a second screw under the tailstock ram handwheel forcing the top and bottom not-quite dovetails together horizontally. I replaced both with 5 mm socket head cap screws:
Tightening a cup-end SHCS against the square not-a-dovetail tends to shift the upper casting; the original screw had a narrow pin end to reduce the torque. Having brass rod close at hand, this seemed easier than machining the screw:
The little tip comes from using a square-ended cutoff tool. Purists will dress the tool at a slight angle to cut off one side first. Of course, which way one dresses it depends on whether you want the remaining stub on the stock or the cut-off part. Sooo, I still have a square tool.
The tailstock has a cam lock handle clamping a square-ish plate against the bottom of the bed ways. Unfortunately, the manufacturer cut the plate with a dull shear, producing two beveled edges:
Flipping it over dramatically improved the clamping action, although I must eventually scrape the paint and grunge off the bottom of the ways. While I had it off, I turned a small aluminum bushing to replace the pair of washers:
The plate hangs lower toward the rear because the clamping bolt isn’t in the middle. The tailstock originally had a mighty spring holding it level, but the spring tended to snag against the front side of the bed, so I removed it.
The lever handle actuating the tailstock cam lock had no stops and rotated freely counterclockwise when loosened. The tailstock casting had enough meat for a 5 mm threaded brass insert in a useful location, so I drilled a suitable hole:
The vacuum hose slurped up the cast iron dust, which is a Very Good Idea.
Butter up the insert with JB Kwik epoxy, slide into the hole, wipe off most of the excess, then pause to admire the result:
The lever stopper won’t win any design awards, even though it’s a dramatic usability improvement:
The finger-tight nut serves to lock the SHCS in place against the lever’s impact. I conjured a small bumper around the head from a rubber foot intended to fit under a random box of electronics.
Pushing the lever leftward to the stop lets the tailstock slide freely and pushing it to the right clamps the tailstock to the bed. The cam’s limited rotation keeps the plate close enough to the underside of the bed to prevent it from tipping left-to-right as the tailstock slides, so it no longer snags.
While I had the tailstock up on jackstands, this is what the ram thrust bearing looks like:
The flange over on the left bears against the steel disk on the right, with no real thrust bearing to be seen. A dab of grease improved its disposition.
Now, to realign the thing …
We walked over the bridge in Wappingers Falls on our way to a play:
As always, we paused near the center to admire the view (clicky for more dots):
That’s from the PixelXL, braced on the bridge wall, facing downstream toward the Hudson River.
A dot-for-dot crop of the penstock, showing off the RGB LED garland:
Contrary to what you might think, the gorge underfoot appeared almost black to the eye, particularly against the glare from the floodlights, so the HDR works very well:
The JPG compression on those images doesn’t materially affect the results; the original image has most of the artifacts.
The EXIF information:
The “1/10 s shutter speed” probably has very little to do with any physical event. AFAICT, the Pixel camera records 30 images/s for the on-screen preview, then uses various images before-and-after the shutter click for motion compensation and HDR processing. If so, “1/10 s” corresponds to three images.
I had the Pixel location tracking in “battery saving” mode with the GPS turned off:
In reality, the bridge is about 90 feet above sea level. The “GPS Time Stamp” and, presumably, the date, use UTC. We’re in UTC-4, with Daylight Saving Time in full effect, so we were comfortably early for the 8 PM show.
The camera doesn’t produce DSLR-with-big-glass quality images, but it fits in my pocket and it’s better than my old Canon SX-230HS for most purposes.
So now we know a chrome-plated steel rod will survive 16 years in a bathroom drain, at least if you’re willing to coddle the fool thing far more than seems reasonable.
I eased a slug of epoxy into the brass tube to seal the wet end. Given how little use the stopper gets, I hope it lasts forever …