It’s easier to remove the leadscrew while dismantling the carriage and apron, which requires removing the cover from the control box containing all the switches & knobs. Come to find out the “cover” actually holds all the gadgetry onto the headstock:
I want to replace the Power indicator with something visible in normal shop light; judging from the connectors and overall brightness, it’s a neon bulb inside a green housing.
Anyhow, the four screws holding cover to the headstock weren’t identical:
I thought the oddball screw was deliberate, perhaps fastening that corner to a plastic frame of some sort, but it turned out to be a quick fix for a boogered tap job:
A bag of 4 mm knurled brass inserts will arrive in a while, after which I’ll drill out all four holes and epoxy inserts in their place. Might have to use stainless hardware, just for nice…
You can get fancy closed-cell foam sheets for the bottom of your tool chest drawers and tote, but it seems awfully spendy, even with Harbor Freight quality plastic, for something that you must cut-to-fit. The drawers are just under 22×11 and 22×17 inches, so a 18×72 inch roll would line maybe three drawers; call it three bucks per drawer and, with nearly three dozen drawers to line, I’d rather drop a hundred bucks on tools.
Rather than do that, the usual eBay supplier provided 150 feet of 1/8 inch x 24 inch white polyethylene closed-cell foam sheet for $27 delivered:
It’s intended for packaging small items for shipping, but I’ll never tell.
I mooched Mary’s 2×3 foot rotary cutting mat (this reenactment shows the awkwardly sized 17×23 inch mat), her longest quilting rulers, and dullest rotary blades:
After a few mis-steps, I got the hang of it:
It’s not as contrast-y as black foam, but I can still find the tools:
And I have plenty of foam left over for shipping small things, if I ever do any of that…
The original owner of our house positioned two blue plastic barrels along the driveway, filled with salt for ice melting. We’ve neither used the salt (a snowblower suffices for most storms) nor removed the barrels; they’ve been in those spots for at least three decades.
Many critters pause in front of the barrels:
Those who fit often hop inside:
We’re pleased to provide public salt licks!
The mini-lathe arrives covered in oil and the chuck is no exception. Wrap it in a paper towel, spin it up, let it sling out (nearly all) of the excess oil:
I got an LMS adjustable carriage stop along with the mini-lathe to simplify cutting things to length. A few tweaks make it much less annoying to use:
The fluorescent red tape makes the handle stand out vividly against the general clutter. It lives in the shadow of the chuck, where an extended jaw could end its life, so some protective coloration seemed in order.
The screw threaded into the lower part holds it together, but, as with the carriage retaining plates, only the outer edge clamped onto the lower part of the bed. Three layers of credit card plastic fill the gap and allow just enough compression to go from “freely sliding” to “firmly clamped” in half a turn of the lever.
The washer lets the lever turn easily on the upper block.
Remove the screw and spring from the lever to lift and properly re-index it on the internal nut.
The spring on the adjusting screw seems too long and exceedingly stiff for the task at hand. The Big Box o’ Little Springs didn’t offer a suitable replacement, so adapting / making one goes on the to-do list.
It really needs a sliding pin just to the left of the lever screw to hold the lower block in alignment, but that’s definitely in the nature of fine tuning.
Eks gave the traverse crank a few twirls, told me the gear was engaging the rack entirely too tightly, and recommended shimming the apron:
Of course, he was right.
Took two 18 mil shims to make it feel right, for whatever that’s worth.
That isn’t the prettiest solution, but it’ll suffice until the ways wear a bit more, things settle in, and I can cut a proper shim to surround the bolt holes across the entire bearing surface.
You can just make out the transparent plastic sheet that serves as a chip shield around the traverse gear shaft; kudos to LMS for that upgrade.
A chip shield tube / roof over the leadscrew is in order, too.
The inner circumference of the bottom O-ring had most of the wear:
In cross-section, it’s more of a D-ring:
Once again, I soaked the spout & pillar in vinegar to remove the mineral deposits (despite the soft water), gave them a light sanding with 800 grit paper to regularize the surfaces, cleaned everything up, lubed it with petroleum jelly, and it’s all good.
Disassembly and replacement went smoothly, mostly because I could look up what I did before and avoid all the usual mistakes.