By the Universal Principle of the Conservation of Perversity, the base of the floor lamp just barely doesn’t fit under the edge of the Comfy Chair:
Well, I can fix that!
The feet descend from the fuzzy felt feet on the plant shelves, with the hex head socket transmogrified into a circle to match the chair feet. The support structure grew a flat plate to ensure it doesn’t pull loose from the platform:
Print ’em out, stick the felt in place:
Lift the chair (maybe with a small prybar atop some plywood to protect the floor), position the feet, lower gently: done!
While the M2 was warm, I ran off another set for the other Comfy Chair, just for symmetry.
Going from a 21 tooth gear to a 42 tooth gear means you must reduce the remaining train ratio by a factor of two for a given thread pitch. Here’s a 42-50-45-60 train, with the same -125 ppm error as the 21-50-60-40 train and no screw / washer clearance issues between the A screw and the C gear:
The original 60-40 CD pair has a 3:2 ratio, the 45-60 CD pair is 3:4, so that’s where the factor-of-two reduction happens.
The first pass at the solid model included a debossed legend:
With a printed gear in hand, I realized the legend must be embossed below the surface, so as not to rub against an adjacent gear; better modeling is in order.
The general idea is to set Inkscape’s (known-good) gear generator to the correct gear parameters (module 1 → 3.14 mm circular pitch, 20° pressure angle):
Save the outline as an SVG:
If you do like I did and neatly position the gear at the bottom-left origin, all SVG viewers will show only the Quadrant I arc, probably because Inkscape sets the SVG file to display it that way. I’ve made that mistake before and maybe, someday, I’ll remember.
Load the SVG into OpenSCAD, which will find the entire gear, no matter where it falls in the coordinate space, and spike it at the origin:
The linear_extrude( … center=false … ) keeps the bottom of the blank at Z=0. The import( … center=true … ) puts the 2D shape at the XY origin. Because OpenSCAD centers the bounding box, gears with an odd number of teeth will be ever so slightly off-center, which would matter a whole lot more in a fancier machine tool than a mini-lathe.
All of which produces a tidy 3D gear blank:
OpenSCAD ignores SVG holes, which isn’t a problem for me, because I’d rather punch the bore, keyway, and so forth programatically.
The real reason you need a 32 tooth gear is for exact 25, 50, and 100 TPI threads with a 1/16 inch leadscrew. I don’t foresee much need for those around here, but you can never have too many change gears …
The fundamental limit comes from the heater’s ability to bring cold plastic up to extrusion temperature inside the 20 mm hot zone.
Using airscape’s example, the extruded thread is 0.5 mm thick × 0.8 mm wide = 0.4 mm², so laying down that thread at 50 mm/s means the extruder is heating plastic at 20 mm³/s and is “pushing it with PLA”.
In round numbers, normal printing speeds with a normal nozzle and normal plastics runs around 10 mm³/s, so a practical upper limit is probably around 15 mm³/s.
As far as thread size goes, the diameter of the flat area around the nozzle orifice sets the maximum thread width, because the nozzle must compress the thread against the previous layer. If the thread is wider than the nozzle, the gooey plastic curls up around the sides of the nozzle and doesn’t bond well. The rule of thumb is to round up the orifice diameter to the next convenient number:
0.35 mm nozzle → 0.4 mm thread
0.75 mm nozzle → 0.8 mm thread
The maximum thread (= layer) thickness should be about 60% of the thread width, which is why a 0.8 mm wide thread calls for a 0.5 mm layer thickness.
Assuming the extruder can heat 15 mm³/s of plastic, the maximum printing speed will be 15 mm³/s / 0.4 mm² = 37.5 mm/s: comfortably under airscape’s “pushing it” 50 mm/s.
A local hospital contacted Mary’s quilting group to sew up cloth covers to prolong the life of their medical-grade N95 masks. Their recommended pattern, the Fu Face Mask from the FreeSewing group, comes in three sizes:
N.B.: Use their original PDF, because a JPG picture probably won’t come out at the right size.
Also N.B.: Used by itself, this is not a medical-grade filter mask.
The patterns do not include the usual 1/4 inch seam allowance around the outside, so I cranked out 3D printed plastic cutting templates.
If you’re not interested in 3D printing, 2D print the PDF file on cardboard, sketch a seam allowance, and cut it out, as quilters have been doing since slightly after home printers happened.
The plan of attack:
Convert mask outlines into a bitmap image (GIMP)
Create Bezier curves by tracing outlines (Inkscape)
Save curves as SVG files
Convert SVG into solid model (OpenSCAD)
Add stiffening ribs &c
Save as STL solid model
Slice into G-Code file (Slic3r)
Fire the M2!
So, we begin …
Import the PDF into The GIMP, delete the text & suchlike, convert to monochrome, and save the pattern outlines as a PNG file:
It turns out Inkscape can directly import the PDF, but it valiantly tries to convert all the text and the incidental graphic elements, none of which will be useful in this situation. It’s easier to delete them in The GIMP and make a bank shot off a PNG file.
Import the PNG into Inkscape and trace one outline with the Bezier curve tool:
If you squint really carefully, you’ll see Bezier control handles sticking out of the nodes. I laid three nodes along the top arc and four along the right side, but do what’cha like; the Insert key or Shift+I inserts and Delete removes nodes. It’s easier to center a node in the middle of the PNG line with snapping turned off: Shift+drag while mousing or globally with #.
You could unleash the bitmap auto-tracer, but it generates a bazillion uselessly tiny Bezier curves.
When you’re happy, select and copy the path with Ctrl+C, paste it into a shiny new Inkscape document (Ctrl+N) with Ctrl-V, save it with a catchy file name like Fu Mask - Small - nominal.svg, and close that document to return to the document with the PNG outlines and the original path.
Select the original path again, create a dynamic offset with Ctrl+J, open the XML editor with Ctrl+Shift+X (which automagically selects the proper SVG element), and change the inkscape:radius value from 0 to 6.35 (mm, which everyone should use) to get a 1/4 inch seam allowance:
The path will puff out with curved corners:
Copy into a new document, save as Fu Mask - Small - seam allowance.svg, and close.
Repeat that process for each of the three mask sizes to create three pairs of SVG files: the nominal mask outline and the corresponding seam allowance outline for each size.
The OpenSCAD program imports the SVG files, removes the nominal outline from within the seam allowance to leave the outline, adds stiffening ribs, and stamps an ID letter on both sides of the central button:
Choose one of the three sizes with the OpenSCAD customizer, save the resulting model as an STL file, repeat for the three sizes, and you’re done.
This process can convert any outline paths in SVG files into cutting templates, so, should the Fu Mask not suit your fancy, Use The Source.
One of two new round rubber soaker hoses arrived with a slight crimp, enough to suggest it would crumble at an inopportune moment. Rather than return the hose for something that’s not an obvious failure, I clamped the crimp:
Unlike the clamps for the punctured flat soaker hoses, this one doesn’t need to withstand much pressure and hold back a major leak, so I made the pieces a bit thicker and dispensed with the aluminum backing plates: