Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs: Installed!

The combined illumination from the COB LED bar on the rear of the arm and the (renewed) COB LEDs over the needle does a pretty good job of lighting up the work area:

Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs - cloth illumination
Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs – cloth illumination

That’s a staged shot with a quilt square from the top of the pile. You’d (well, Mary’d) sew along the lines, not across a finished square.

The remaining deep shadows under the foot require an LED with an imaging lens on a gooseneck; precise piecing requires feeding fabric into the needle with alignment exactly where those shadows fall.

The light levels look harsh and shadowy on the bare base:

Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs - front
Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs – front

The shadow extending leftward from the needle comes from the arm’s shadow of the rear LED bar. The hotspot specular reflections of both LED arrays aren’t quite as glaring in real life, but a matte surface finish would be better.

The needle LEDs sit on the bottom of the heatsink inside the endcap:

Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs - installed
Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs – installed

The COB LED PCB has a weird pink tint, perhaps due to the silicone filter passing all the yellow and blue light downward, with red light reflected into the PCB.

After one iteration, I settled on a 20 Ω 1 W ballast resistor:

Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs - ballast resistor
Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs – ballast resistor

It drops 3.6 V to provide 180 mA of needle LED current and dissipates 640 mW, with the LEDs burning about 1.5 W to raise the heatsink just above room temperature. The extrusion on the rear arm is pleasantly warm and the resistors seem happy enough.

Looks good to us and it’s much much much better than the feeble Juki needle LED.

4 thoughts on “Juki TL-2010Q Needle LEDs: Installed!

  1. Looks good. A job well done (as long as the customer is happy…)

  2. I replaced the standard “1/4-nightlight-bright” bulb in an old Kenmore with a – slightly larger – led bulb.
    Everything looked good and brighter till I noticed that the machine couldn’t do Zig-Zag anymore:
    The larger bulb interfered with the mechanism that moves the needle sideways.

    1. I’ve devoted plenty of hours to watching mechanical doodads as I turn the main shaft by hand, because there’s absolutely no clearance in some spots: routing the wire from the needle LEDs through the slot over the presser foot lift lever just barely misses a few moving parts.

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