Posts Tagged Memo to Self
Why you shouldn’t use antistatic foam for long-term storage:
The lump emerged from Mad Phil’s parts stash, now residing under a bench at Squidwrench. The
952 date code on the HEP802 JFET suggests he tucked it in around 1980; you’re looking at nigh onto four decades of corrosion.
Memo to Self: use it or lose it!
On the drive side, of course:
I’d noticed some brake drag on our last few rides, but forgot to check until I saw the rim wobble while extracting images from the rear camera.
It’s a lot easier to fix in the Basement Shop than on the road. After nigh onto a decade since replacing the last broken spoke, perhaps this is a harbinger of doom to come.
Memo to Self: spoke tension is now 20-ish on the drive side, 15-ish on the left.
With the wrecked 5U4GB safely in the trash, I popped a smaller, somewhat less stately triode from the Big Box o’ Hollow-State Electronics and wired it up with a pair of SK6812 RGBW LEDs:
The tube’s markings have long since vanished, but, at this late date, all that matters is an intact glass envelope!
After two years, the ordinary white foam tape holding the knockoff Arduino Nano lost most of its sticktivity and easily popped off the 3D printed base:
Two layers of 3M outdoor-rated foam tape clear the bottom-side components and, based on current evidence, its stickiness should stick forever more:
The alert reader will notice the mis-soldered 1 kΩ SMT resistor above-and-right of the CH340 USB interface chip. I think those two resistors are the isolators between the 328P microcontroller and the CH340, letting you use the TX and RX lines as ordinary I/O without killing either chip.
Despite the mis-soldering, it evidently passed their QC and works fine. Seeing as how I didn’t notice it until just now, it’ll remain in place until I must open the lamp base for some other reason, which may never happen.
The data output is now on pin A5, to match the rest of the glowing widgetry:
Blobs of hot melt glue affix the SK6812 and wiring to the socket:
The original “plate cap” wiring ran directly through a hole in the hard drive platter, which I embiggened for a 3.5 mm panel-mount headphone jack. The knurled metal plug looms next to this smaller tube, but it looks better (in a techie sense) than the raw hole:
Octal tubes have an opaque Bakelite base, so I devoted some Quality Shop Time™ to the post:
Although I’d made a shell drill for 5U4’s base, this base was so crumbly I simply joysticked the spinning cutter around to knock off the rest of the post:
The shell drill would open the bottom to admit a bit more light. I may do that to see if it makes any visible difference.
I didn’t expect the serrations in the top mica plate to cast interesting patterns around the platter:
Memo to Self: use the shell drill to avoid nicking the evacuation tip!
For reasons not relevant here, I recently conjured a pair of tables to support an injured arm (ours are OK!) in the bathroom: one table fitting in the narrow space adjacent to a toilet and the other across the threshold of a walk-in / sit-down shower.
The raw material came from a plastic side table intended for outdoor use:
That’s the Patriotic Blue version, which seemed the least offensive of the colors on offer at the local store.
The plastic pieces unsnap easily enough:
The legs also come apart by pulling outward at the crossover points. You may need to clean the flashing from all the joints, as they’re only as finished as absolutely necessary.
A table about half the width seemed about right, so I sawed the two top plates off their struts, then angled the strut ends to match the new leg angle:
Because it’s now completely floppy, I drilled holes for 5 mm screws through the struts:
In the process, I discovered stainless steel nyloc nuts tend to gall on stainless steel screws:
I lost a pair of screws + nuts before I got a clue and began adding a drop of machine oil to each screw before tightening the nuts. Haven’t had that problem with the 3 mm SS screws, so there’s always something new to learn.
With all the screws in place, the half-table becomes a rigid contraption:
The top looks like it’s suffering from severe barrel distortion, but it really started out looking that way:
The slat sides are all curved, except the far edge that was once in the middle of the table and now fits against the wall.
It may be slightly too short, but we can stack foam slabs on the top, probably held in place with cable ties.
Memo to Self: lube all the stainless steel screws!
A bag of 100 nF ceramic caps arrived from across the continent (“US Stock”) and failed incoming inspection:
The capacitor mark says 104, which is what you’d expect on a 100 nF cap, but the first half-dozen out of the bag measured around 55 nF, far outside even the loosest -20%/+50% tolerance.
Stipulated: the factory can ship every capacitor it makes with a proper mark.
Given their (lack of) provenance, they could be mis-marked 47 nF caps.
Somewhat to my surprise, a refund occurred instantly after I reported the problem.
Trust, but verify.
The maximum current drops from 20 A for frequencies above 20 kHz:
There’s a 100 A·μs pulse charge limit:
Because the probe is actually a pulse transformer, its internal termination imposes a (small) load on the input circuit:
The specs are 100 mΩ at 1 MHz and 500 mΩ at 50 MHz, which means the load is essentially zilch for the circuits and signals I deal with.
The Tektronix Probes for Current Measurement Systems has some useful descriptions.
Memo to Self: Should any of those limits matter, rethink what you’re doing.
An interesting story about the AM503 design from someone who lived through it.
Although the pair of Ortlieb Back-Roller packs on Mary’s bike make her look like a long-distance tourist, we’re actually on our way to her garden plot:
The left-side pack suddenly seemed unusually floppy:
One second later:
Another second and it’s visible under my right hand:
The view from her bike at about the same time:
I’m expecting to fall to my right, but it’d have been better if I hadn’t kicked the bag:
The pack went under the rear wheel and out the far side:
Where it came to rest in the middle of the trail:
Elapsed time from the first picture: just under 5 s.
Did you notice the other cyclist in the other pictures? She’s why I veered so hard to my right!
A pair of these latches hold the pack onto the rear rack:
When they’re properly engaged, they look like this:
When they’re not, they look like this:
Which is obvious in the picture and inconspicuous in real life.
The strap emerging from the top of the latch serves as both a carrying handle and latch release: pull upward to open the latches and release them from the bar, lift to remove the pack, and carry it away as you go. Installing the pack proceeds in reverse: lower the pack onto the rack bar, release the handle, and the latches engage.
Unless the pack is empty enough to not quite fully open the latches as you carry it, in which case the closed latches simply rest on the bar. We’ve both made that mistake and I generally give her packs a quick glance to ensure sure they’re latched. In this case, the plastic drawer atop the racks (carrying seedling pots on their way to the garden) completely concealed the pack latches.
Tree roots have been creasing the asphalt along that section of the rail trail: the bike finally bounced hard enough to lift the drawer and fall off the rack rod.
Memo to Self: In addition to the visual check, lift the packs using the strap across the middle holding the rolled-down top in place. Remember, don’t check by lifting the carrying handle, because it just releases the latches; another easy mistake to make.