The bottom layer (red) is MDF for strength and the top layer (orange) is chipboard because that’s all it needs:
The little tab along the top ensures alignment using the jump ring cutout. The central hole will let me cut through the earring, should that be necessary.
The two strips over on the left get glued on the bottom, spaced to align along one of the aluminum knife blade rails, as with the craft stick fixture. With that lined up, any two of the four targets will serve to align the template with the fixture using LightBurn’s Print-and-Cut tool, as with the craft stick template.
Because the lamp has a big nut apparently holding the pole socket to the base, I figured a dab of threadlock on the pole or the base would solve the problem: lock the pole to the socket, then remove the nut to disassemble when needed. That turned out to be a Bad Idea™.
The socket is a plastic part separate from the base cover plate:
A pair of keys prevent the socket from rotating in the hole:
Four threaded bosses (two visible there) hold the rim of the cover to the weight, with the socket doing the hard work.
A fender washer atop the weight distributes stress from the pole:
Another fender washer on the bottom of the weight lets the nut jam against steel, rather than soft plastic:
FWIW, the nut is either a perfect 15/16 inch or, more likely, a sloppy 24 mm.
In any event, permanently locking the pole to that socket will also lock the pole to the base, with no way to dismantle the lamp when I must once again repair it.
Perhaps a wrap of PTFE tape on the threads will stiffen it enough?
The bathroom ceiling fixture has a nightlight position that we use occasionally, but eventually the little 7 W Christmas Tree bulb failed and I installed this hulk from a box of CFL bulbs a friend scrapped out after switching to LED bulbs:
I never tested whether it actually drew 3 W, but, hey I could feel good. Right? Right?
Anyhow, this one failed after a few years, too. The “bulb” envelope looked like it might make an attractive blinkie or glowie, so I decided to harvest it.
The candelabra screw base felt loose and popped off with a push:
Perhaps they chose the envelope before finalizing the circuitry?
This is why you need a lathe in your shop:
It wasn’t particularly well centered, so that was done dead slow and finished with a few hand turns of the chuck. Obviously, I need a crank for the spindle.
The rest of the circuitry is pretty well packed under that tall cap:
Pulling the PCB out revealed the tube wiring:
Cut the wires and chuck it up again:
Turn dead slow again until it breaks through:
Then finish by hand:
It’s too cute to throw out, but … sheesh you can see why recycling this stuff is so difficult.
For whatever it’s worth, I replaced it with a 3 W LED candelabra bulb that is way too bright.
Our Young Engineer knits during rare moments of downtime and sketched an idea for stitch counters to mark progress between those moments. There being nothing like a new project to take one’s mind off all of one’s previous projects:
These are more along the lines of feasibility / material tests than finished products, so you’ll see plenty of rough edges.
Prior to doing this, we agreed that 3 mm material was probably too thick, particularly given the small scale: the hexagons are 10 mm edge-to-edge with a 1.5 mm hole for the jump ring.
The jump rings are (mostly) 8 mm OD, which may or may not be the right diameter for all possible knitting needles.
The count sequence goes 10 20 10 40 50 10 with alternating colors:
Those came from 3 mm red and blue transparent acrylic, looking entirely too much like candy. Cutting two identical layouts from two different materials, then swapping a few counters, gives me two related-but-different sets. This idea is also subject to revision.
I like the set of 3 mm acrylic mirror counters colored with Sharpie:
Alas, the unprotected mirror backing won’t survive long in the real world and Sharpie ink tends to stress-crack the acrylic. Bonding a thin colored sheet / gel filter to the back with an adhesive sheet in between would work, although I don’t look forward to the fiddly alignment. Bonus: sticky edges are a nonstarter in this application.
A setup error produced a set of unmarked counters that might still come in handy for something:
Trolase acrylic 1/16 inch = 1.5 mm sheets produce the most visible legends, in a relentlessly industrial sort of way:
Those have a single thin layer atop a white or black base sheet, but three-layer 1.5 mm Trolase sheets with matching top and bottom colors (cladding on a white core) would look better.
If you can’t decide on a color, go clear:
All of those appear on a background of some thin DIY plywood:
The bottom sheet is very pale veneer that came with a layer of genuine 3M 468 transfer tape with 200MP adhesive. I stuck three different veneers on three 100×50 mm rectangles of the stuff to make 1.5 mm thick “plywood”. The adhesive sheet provides lateral strength, not the wood fibers, so it’s not quite as easy to tear as the broken fragment would suggest.
The results look passable, although there’s room for improvement:
After engraving & cutting, I slathered them with clear polyurethane finish and hung them up to dry:
I like the effect, but using the pale veneer for the bottom layer made them look identical from that side. Worse, two of the three top layer veneers had nearly identical colors (one has more grain) after the finish cured.
More thought seems in order, but at least I’ve explored some of the solution space.
Although the fitting seems to be made of ABS, it’s now missing major chunks of plastic in the high-stress areas, so rebuilding it seems not worth the effort.
Because we don’t have any carpets and this one will never leave the basement, I extracted the carpet beater brush and its motor, only to find Yet Another Example of poor assembly practices:
It’s a 12 V (-ish, I didn’t measure whatever comes out of the vacuum head) DC motor and those errant strands aren’t quite long enough to meet in the middle. The yellow rectangle is a thermal fuse that would be shorted out if the strands were a bit longer.
The broken joint lets the head swivel from side to side, but the elevation joint is still good. If I don’t expect too much, the thing might still suffice for extracting dust from under the benches:
Worst case, I can swap in a classic floor brush using one of the adapters I made a while ago:
That was easy, if only because I skipped the hard part …