I’ve been putting this type of support structure inside screw holes & suchlike for years:
It’s basically a group of small rectangles rotated around the hole’s axis and about one thread thickness shorter than the overhanging interior.
I’ve found that incorporating exactly the right support structure eliminates Slic3r’s weird growths, eases removal, and generally works better all around.
So doing this for the baseplate of the Glass Tile frame came naturally:
This OpenSCAD snippet plunks one of those asterisks in each of four screw holes:
for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
translate([0,0,(Screw[LENGTH] - ThreadThick)/2])
cube([Screw[OD] - 2*ThreadWidth,2*ThreadWidth,Screw[LENGTH] - ThreadThick],center=true);
The “cubes” overlap in the middle, with no completely coincident faces or common edges, so it’s 2-manifold. Slic3r, however, produces a weird time estimate whenever the model includes those structures:
NaN stands for Not A Number and means something horrible has happened in the G-Code generation. Fortunately, the G-Code worked perfectly and produced the desired result, but I’m always uneasy when Something Seems Wrong.
Messing around with the code produced a slightly different support structure:
The one thread thick square on the bottom helps glue the structure to the platform and four ribs work just as well as eight in the octagonal hole:
Fin = [Screw[OD]/2 - 1.5*ThreadWidth,2*ThreadWidth,ScrewRecess - ThreadThick];
if (Inserts && SupportInserts)
for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
translate([Fin.x/2 + ThreadWidth/2,0,(ScrewRecess - ThreadThick)/2])
Which changed the NaN time estimates into actual numbers.
One key difference may be the small hole in the middle. The four ribs (not two!) now overlap by one thread width around the hole, so they’re not quite coincident and Slic3r produces a tidy model:
The hole eliminates a smear of infill from the center, which may have something to do with the improvement.
In any event, I have an improved copypasta recipe for the next screw holes in need of support, even if I don’t understand why it’s better.
Which looks like this with the LEDs and brass inserts installed:
The base holds an Arduino Nano with room for wiring under the cell array:
Which looks like this after it’s all wired up:
The weird colors showing through the inserts are from the LEDs. The red thing in the upper left is a silicone insulation snippet. Yes, that’s hot-melt glue holding the Arduino Nano in place and preventing the PCBs from getting frisky.
Soak a handful of glass tiles overnight in paint stripper:
Whereupon the adhesive slides right off with the gentle application of a razor scraper. Rinse carefully, dry thoroughly, and snap into place.
Tighten the four M3 SHCS and it’s all good:
So far, I’ve had two people tell me they don’t know what it is, but they want one:
Flash is a misnomer, as the tiles simply change from one color to the next, but I’ve never been adept at picking catchy names. In any event, the glass tiles on the left show nice pastel shades, in contrast to the bright primary(-ish) colors appearing on the right.
The colors are random numbers from 1 to 7, because 0 produces a somewhat ugly dark cell. The SK6812 modules have a white LED in addition to the RGB LEDs in the WS2812 modules, so I replace the “additive white” R+G+B color with the more-or-less true white (warm, for these modules) LED.
The new color goes into a cell picked at random (0 through 3, for 2×2 frames), except if the cell already holds the same color, whereupon a simple XOR flips the colors, except if the cell is already full-on white, whereupon it becomes half-on white to avoid going completely dark.
The glass tiles must change colors at a much slower pace than the 8×8 LED matrix, because there are so few cells; a random delay between 500 ms and 6 s seems about right.
Although Jason’s comment suggesting carbon-fiber reinforcing rods didn’t prompt me to lay in a stock, ordinary music wire should serve the same purpose:
The pins are 1.6 mm diameter and 20 mm long, chopped off with hardened diagonal cutters. Next time, I must (remember to) grind the ends flat.
The solid model needs holes in appropriate spots:
Yes, I’m going to put round pins in square holes, without drilling the holes to the proper diameter: no epoxy, no adhesive, just 20 mm of pure friction.
The drill press aligns the pins:
And rams them about halfway down:
Close the chuck jaws and shove them flush with the surface:
You can see the pins and their solid plastic shells through the wrench stem:
Early testing shows the reinforced wrench works just as well as the previous version, even on some new valves sporting different handles, with an equally sloppy fit for all. No surprise: I just poked holes in the existing model and left all the other dimensions alone.