Moderate Lifetime CFL Failure

Not all CFL bulbs fail after a year. This one seems to have lasted six years, only to burn out a few days after the other one:

Burned-out CFL bulb

Burned-out CFL bulb

I’m sure the date code just over the base means January 2006, not June 2001, simply because I used much larger bulbs a decade ago. Those have long since failed…

These bulbs all operate in nearly the worst possible condition: base-up inside a ceiling downlight can, although without a cover glass. It’s much cooler in there than with the equivalent incandescent bulb, but they still get pretty toasty. The housing discoloration and the brittle bosses around the tube glass looks a bit less saturated in real life, but this will give you an idea:

CFL bulb - heat damage

CFL bulb - heat damage

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Early Compact Fluorescent Bulb Failure

Early CFL Bulb Failure

Early CFL Bulb Failure

Being that sort of bear, I tend to make notations like this. Sometimes I’m delighted the next time the inscription sees the light of day and sometimes it ticks me right off…

Much of the energy-saving advantage of CFL bulbs comes from their touted long life. I’d say a year isn’t nearly long enough to reap any benefits…

There is certainly a warranty on the bulb, if only I’d:

  • saved the empty package and
  • had the original receipt and
  • be willing to call a presumably toll-free number and
  • go through whatever hassle they impose to swap the bulb

They know none of us will get very far down that checklist…

FWIW, the box of smaller CFL bulbs on the shelf says they have a two-year warranty “in normal residential service of 3 hours per day”. I’m sure the number of starts factors into it, too.

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Reversal Zits: Speed, Acceleration, and a Bestiary

The Skeinforge Dimension plugin subsumes the obsolete Reversal plugin’s features. At the end of each thread, if the nozzle will move more than the Minimum Travel distance (1 mm by default, which is what I’m using) to the start of the next thread, the extruder yanks Retraction Distance of filament out of the hot end at the Retraction Speed.

Some experimentation at 30 mm/s showed that 2 mm of filament would eliminate all drooling, 1.5 mm left thin threads, and 1.0 mm wasn’t nearly enough.

Similar experimentation suggested 60 mm/s as the upper limit for Retraction Speed, with the SJFW acceleration limiting parameters set for 250 mm/s2. The usual extrusion speed isn’t much faster than a crawl, so the distance required to reach a backwards 60 mm/s is:

dist = (60 mm/s)2 / (2 * 250 mm/s2) = 7.2 mm

What that means, of course, is that the extruder doesn’t have enough torque to reach the programmed speed in the required distance. Assuming SJFW uses trapezoidal limiting, it will accelerate to some maximum speed at the halfway point and decelerate to a stop at the same rate. Pegging the midpoint at 1 mm, the extruder will reach a peak speed of:

v = √(2 * 250 mm/s2 * 1 mm) = 22 mm/s

In order to hit 60 mm/s in the middle of the retraction, the extruder must accelerate at:

a = (60 mm/s)2 / (2 * 1 mm) = 1800 mm/s2

Which requires way more torque than the piddly little motor I’m using can provide.

While I could swap in that larger motor, crank the current up a bit, and goose the extruder acceleration, the current Reversal Zittage is small enough for my purposes. I’d rather expend that effort on doodling up a direct-drive extruder, but that’s on the back burner until something horrible happens to the current extruder.

One easy alternative: lower the perimeter speed sufficiently far as to reduce the pressure in the hot end enough that the current speeds can suppress the zits. Notice the difference in the pix below; what you can’t see is that the first layer has no zittage whatsoever. Of course, that means the perimeter must trundle along at maybe 10 mm/s…

Herewith, a Reversal Zittage bestiary at various perimeter speeds, with Dimension set as described above and these extrusion settings:

  • 0.25 mm layer height
  • 0.50 mm thread width
  • 60 mm/s infill
  • 250 mm/s travel

A Dishwasher Rack Protector vertical tube at 30 mm/s:

Rack protector - Reversal zits

Rack protector - Reversal zits

The tube’s interior had equivalent zits that cleaned out easily with a twist drill.

Some of the half-tube ends came out slightly angled with zits here & there, but remember that they’re 4.5 mm tall:

Rack protector - Reversal zits

The Zire 71 Protector had a lot more infill with very few perimeter joints. This corner shows a few zits at 30 mm/s:

Zire 71 protector - Reversal zits

Zire 71 protector - Reversal zits

One of the Dr. Who Cookie Cutters showed much more conspicuous zittage on the inside of a corner at 20 mm/s:

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zit - interior corner

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zit - interior corner

Than on the outside of the same corner:

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zit - Exterior corner

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zit - Exterior corner

The zits on the other cutter fell along one edge. The inside:

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zits - interior side

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zits - interior side

And the outside:

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zits - exterior side

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zits - exterior side

The Dr. Who set included flat cookie presses with patterns. Although these islands show some zittage, they’re about 1 mm tall and perhaps 5 mm long:

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zits - islands

Dr Who cutter - Reversal zits - islands

The rest of the perimeter extrusions look essentially perfect, so these really are very minor imperfections.

,

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Dr. Who Cookie Cutters

These Dr. Who themed cookie cutters came out nearly perfect:

Dr Who Cookie Cutters

Dr Who Cookie Cutters

Each consists of an outer cutter rim and an inner dough press that fit neatly together.

The STL files contain a few triangle errors that seem to be typical of objects made with Google Sketchup, but the final G-Code came out fine despite a few Skeinforge warnings.

No strings, no cleanup, no muss, no fuss: the printer is back in operation once again!

The relevant Skeinforge 45 settings, about which more later:

  • 0.25 mm layer thickness + 0.50 mm thread width
  • First layer: 9 mm/s perimeter + 15 mm/s infill
  • Other layers: 20 mm/s perimeter  + 60 mm/s infill
  • 250 mm/s travel (!)
  • +0 extra shells, 3 solid layers
  • 0.20 infill + 45°/90° rectangular
  • 200 °C extrusion + 110 °F platform

Dimension plugin settings:

  • Filament dia = 2.96 mm, FPD = 0.93 (natural ABS from MBI)
  • Retraction 2 mm @ 60 mm/s, min 1 mm travel

I’m not a big Dr. Who fan, but I know someone who is…

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Shower Basket Sucker Relocation

The outer suckers on the basket in the corner of the shower didn’t line up with the tiles; either tile dimensions have changed in the last half-century or it’s a hard-metric basket. It didn’t look right when I installed it (now that is a grandiose term if I’ve ever misused one), so (when the thing fell off and landed with a clatter a few days ago) I drilled two additional holes as far away from the corner as I could, using a step drill to prevent the plastic from shattering, and it’s all good.

Shower basket - redrilled

Shower basket - redrilled

Sometimes, they’re easy…

You’ll note that I heroically resisted the urge to fire the Thing-O-Matic to print some kind of weird-ass safety-orange interposer plate, just because I could.

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HP 50g Calculator Screen Protector

A week or so after I got my HP 49GX calculator, I managed to drop a vernier caliper on it. Interior points downward, of course, putting a nice divot on the non-glare plastic over the LCD panel.

A week or so after I got my HP 50g calculator, I applied a screen protector sheet harvested from the lifetime supply I bought for my original Zire 71, back in the day.

HP 50g calculator screen protector

HP 50g calculator screen protector

The fact that it’s an almost perfect fit and that the calculator sports a monochrome LCD with lower resolution is a sad commentary on the state of the calculator art.

Taking that picture in low-angle full sunlight makes the protector sheet look awful. In actual use, it’s nearly invisible. Haven’t dropped anything on it yet, either.

And, yes, I did cut it out around the HP logo button in the upper right corner.

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Calculator Set, Nuclear, M28 — FSN 6665-897-8697

Found this relic while I was looking for something else.

The M1 Radiac calculator, which produces your expected radiation dose, given the reading from a Geiger counter or one of those, the elapsed time since the bang, and how long you’ll be exposed:

ABC-M1 Radiac Calculator

ABC-M1 Radiac Calculator

If you’re a belt-and-suspenders type, you might carry a dosimeter, too, which calls for a homebrew charger or, better, an official one.

The M4 Nuclear Yield Calculator which, according to those Official Instructions, gives incorrect answers and has been replaced by the M4A1:

M4 Nuclear Yield Calculator

M4 Nuclear Yield Calculator

They’re basically circular nomographs, made from stacked plastic disks, with various index lines and notations. You could use the flat nomographs with a ruler, but what’s the fun in that?

All inside a vintage plastic pouch:

M28 Pouch

M28 Pouch

Some of the stuff around here, well, I hope I never have a need for…

[Update: That comment there has a link to a DIY version. Go for it!]

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