It turns out that attaching some, but not all, of the PCs around here to the Arduino Pro board controlling the Totally Featureless Clock cause the WWVB receiver to drown in a sea of noise. In fact, just touching the USB cable’s shield to the FTDI Basic USB-to-serial adapter would bring the noise.
So this is a quick-and-dirty circuit to see if optical isolation will reduce the problem enough to be bearable.
The schematic is pretty simple: two bits in, two bits out.
The layout puts the DIP isolators on the top and the SMD resistors on the bottom. I used fancy screw-machine IC socket pins, just because I had some, but you could solder the isolators directly to the board. The FTDI Basic connects through header pins and the Arduino connects through female header sockets, both soldered sideways to the top of the board. I’ll eventually reinforce them with some epoxy, never fear.
Double-size PCB layout:
Actual-size copper images. Remember that the top copper is flipped left-to-right here so it comes out properly after toner-transfer imaging.
And the placement info showing where the parts wind up. This is sort of the silkscreen for the top and bottom, both together: the backwards stuff goes on the bottom side.
The alert reader will note that the photo doesn’t match the rest of the images. Nay, verily, eagle-eyed readers will have picked out a few resistors on the top and two embarrassing little red-wire Xes at the connectors. Somehow, I managed to swap the RxD and TxD pins, even with an FTDI board on the desk next to me. I hate it when that happens… so I fixed the schematic & layout for the next time around.
The resistors push a lot of current through the LEDs and phototransistors, which is what you need to get decent 19200 b/s serial data pulses. Here’s what the data stream out of the TxD isolator looks like:
I have the Eagle files and the CNC drill file for my Sherline mill if you must have them, but you can go from those images above directly to the hardware. It’s an evening’s work, more or less.
You might want to kludge a jumper into the Reset line so it’s impossible to accidentally reset the Arduino. Sometimes you don’t want a reset, like after a few days of data collection…
Now, does it actually do what I expected? The early reports are good, but I’m at the mercy of the atmosphere and must collect a few days (actually, nights) worth of data to find just how far down the noise went.