Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Being that type of guy, I enjoy keeping track of the gas furnace’s behavior and the least invasive method is monitoring the inlet and outlet water temperatures. I already have an Ambient Weather station for other things, including a pair of WH31P temperature sensor probes for the heat pump’s outdoor exhaust air and indoor duct temperature. Unfortunately, those sensors top out at (an undocumented in the description) 140 °F and the furnace water runs around 180 °F.
Because I’m more interested in furnace run time than exact water temperature, putting the sensor somewhere between the 180 °F pipe and the 60 °F basement air seemed reasonable.
A quick test showed it might work:
Furnace pipe sensor – proof of concept
That’s a random cart coin for insulation under a random heatsink for cooling, with the WH31P probe clamped under a snippet of closed-cell packing foam.
Emboldened by 180 °F water in the pipe producing 80 °F at the probe, I conjured a more formal mount from the vasty digital deep:
Furnace Pipe Sensor Mount – solid model – show view
Which looks pretty much like that in real life:
Furnace pipe sensor – installed
A layer of heatsink tape holds it to the plastic block, which in turn just sits on the rather crusty pipe surface. The blue wire is a thermocouple reporting the actual pipe temperature and, if the sensor isn’t getting enough heat, a blob of heatsink grease on the pipe will surely help.
The spring arms originally held the heatsink to a PCB atop a Northbridge chip (or some such), so those solderless connectors crimped on shock cord should make it feel at home.
Installing the sensors immediately raised the outdoor temperature by 20 °F at the beginning of an atypically warm November week, so it’ll be a while before I have any results.
Those bristles recently fell out during a cleaning session:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – OEM with brush
I will never know their backstory, but the rough-cut metal ring strongly suggests they’re a replacement for the original Electrolux bristles. Given that the Model G dates back to the early sixties, that puppy has been around for six decades and counting.
The rubber insert in the aluminum ball had long since fossilized:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – OEM rubber
Not knowing if it would come out in approximately one piece, a doodle records whatever dimensions I could measure:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – exterior measurements
Surprisingly, it remained just flexible enough:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – OEM rubber removed
So I could measure a few more rubber dimensions:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – rubber measurements
And ball dimensions:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – metal measurements
After screwing around drawing Beziér curves for maybe half an hour, I realized a crude polygonal approximation would work perfectly well when 3D printed in TPU with a 0.8 mm nozzle:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – show 5 view
Which had the compelling advantage I could exactly specify the points and tweak them for an exact fit:
The scale() compensates for the list of points having easily measured real-life diameters, but the polygon() must be at the radius away from the origin; you could divide all the X axis coordinates in the list by two. Dimensions along the Z axis remain unchanged.
Like this:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – show 360 view
Split it along the ghostly plane into printable parts:
Run the model through PrusaSlicer, install the 0.8 mm nozzle in the MK4, load TPU filament, let the magic happens, then dab JB PlasticBonder urethane adhesive around the mating rim of the bottom part:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – gluing part
Yeah, black would be more better, but tan is fine.
Flip it over, eyeballometrically center the gooey ring in the wide rim of the nozzle, and let it cure.
Which eventually looks like it grew that way:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – replacement TPU
See? Crude low-poly models FTW!
As usual, however, it takes two to make a thing go right:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – TPU versions
The first pass in the center front showed the outer rim needed a deeper recess to grip the metal ring around the bristles; I’m sure I could pry the bristles out of the second version if lives depended on it.
I added the elongated nozzle to stand halfway up inside the bristles to keep them from collapsing inward under suction:
Electroxlux Brush Ball – nozzle in brush
It’s definitely better than it was!
Might last another half-century; the original Electrolux vacuums are survivors.
Although the auto-rewind spindles for the PolyDryer Boxes have worked well for over a year, one of them recently stopped rewinding. After some fiddling about with all the usual suspects, I dismantled the spindle and found this inside:
Auto-rewind spindle – failed spring slot
The spring tab barely visible below the separated filament layers normally fits in that slot, but now rotates freely as the spring turns with the spindle’s axle.
A short while later:
Auto-rewind spindle – reprinted spring cap
The minuscule carbon fibers in PETG-CF don’t improve the layer-to-layer adhesion and may make it worse, particularly in designs with very small cross-sections.
I use PETG-CF mostly because I like how it looks, as few of my designs require even moderate tensile strength.
Tucking seasonal decorations into the lamps bracketing the garage door would be much easier if the rubber buttons retaining the glass panes were squishy cylinders, rather than fossilized pebbles:
Outdoor Lamp Glass Retainers – old vs new
The five tidy buttons on the right are black TPU, hot off the MK4’s printbed:
The flange allows for some, shall we say, dimensional variation in the installation:
Outdoor Lamp Glass Retainers – old vs new – installed
They’re just a tube atop a cylinder:
nx = ceil(sqrt(NumButtons));
ny = nx;
union()
for (nx = [0:nx-1], ny = [0:ny-1])
right(nx*(FlangeOD + Gap))
back(ny*(FlangeOD + Gap))
render()
union() {
cyl(FlangeHeight,d=FlangeOD,circum=true,anchor=BOTTOM);
tube(ButtonOA.z,od=ButtonOA[OD],id=ScrewOD,circum=true,anchor=BOTTOM);
}
Feel free to set up your own dimensions, in the unlikely event you have lamps in need of similar buttons.
Each of the three lamps has sixteen buttons and, although PrusaSlicer allows you to set the number of instances, its Arrange tool doesn’t make a tidy / compact layout. Doing the layout in OpenSCAD saves a bunch of hassle, with the overall union() turning the array into a single object.
It might not be the best decoration, but it should suffice:
Perhaps surprisingly, the whole process is odorless. This is in the basement where ugly doesn’t count for much.
The leakage comes through the air vent holes at the top of each leg socket:
Worm Bin Vent Cover – vent
Unsurprisingly, the “worm tea” (it ain’t water!) dripping from the bottom of the compost tray goes directly through the vent holes and down the leg. It’s not clear to me what they expected.
A simple 3D printed black TPU cap atop the leg socket should prevent most of the leakage:
Worm Bin Vent Cover – installed
The odd pattern comes from Concentric infill around the notch, even though Concentric infill seems better suited to round things and fat extrusion threads with a 0.8 mm nozzle than straight lines. The weird stuff on the vertical side is a reflection of the basement and phone flash from the smooth TPU layer edges.
The tray with the worms and compost sits atop the strut between the socket and the body, with the cap allowing room for the screen keeping the worms out of the sump.
Ribs on the underside of the cap hold it above the leg socket to let the air through:
Worm Bin Vent Covers – solid model
Although five caps fit the MK4’s platform, I printed one or two at a time while tweaking improving the design:
Worm Bin Vent Covers – PrusaSlicer preview
This design is for the original Can-O-Worms shown in the second picture and may not quite fit the new version. We’ll know more when we empty the bottom tray.
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A day later, most of the boxes were in the 10%RH to 15%RH range, with the filament spools slowly releasing their stored moisture. The PETG Orange meter jumps between 10% and 27%, with the latter more believeable.
Changing the desiccant every month, without thinking too hard, may be the simplest path to dry filament storage.