Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
The hulking pistol is a Tektronix A6203 100 A probe, the little black pencil is a Tek A6302 20 A probe:
MPCNC Z Axis AB current probe – detail
The absurdity of measuring a 600 mA (peak!) current with a 100 A probe isn’t lost on me, but those things have become genuine eBay collectibles over the last few years.
The skirt is scant at 0.20 mm, the boxes are 0.15 mm short at 2.85 mm, and the walls are 0.03 mm too thin. Some Z offset adjustment seems in order, as the first few layers (on the left) came out grossly squished:
Calibration box – 2.85 – detail
However, the box heights came out sufficiently uniform to show the platform alignment remains just fine.
Putting it there replaces all the mechanical putzing and adjusting cute little screws / bolts / nuts / spacers / suchlike with a simple offset in the startup G-Code:
G28 Z-2.15 ; home Z to platform switch, with measured offset
So I changed the startup G-Code in Slic3r to use G28 Z-2.30, sliced a single box in the middle of the platform, printed it, and … it came out exactly the same height: 2.85 mm.
Huh.
To make a very long story short, it turns out Marlin 1.1 ignores the numeric parameter in G28. When I updated the firmware to that version, I had changed the Configuration.h file to include the homing offsets:
So, with the same offset burned into the firmware, it looked like the startup G-Code was Doing The Right Thing. I never deleted the offset from the startup G-Code and, at some point, Marlin stopped supporting the numeric parameter.
Huh.
However, the X and Y homing offsets must be hardcoded, because I want the XY origin in the middle of the platform to match my original OpenSCAD part designs. Everybody else prefers the XY origin in the front-left corner. FWIW, in Marlin 1.1-RC5 (two years old by now), the #define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 constant appears only in that line and nowhere else in the source code. Maybe it was a change in progress back then?
Anyhow, rather than hardcode the Z offset again, I set it to 0.00:
Recompile and reload the firmware, then change the startup G-Code to use G28 Z without the offset.
Doing so means I can measure and adjust the actual Z offset with M206, then store the value in EEPROM with M500:
M206 Z-2.25
M500
I went a little short at -2.25, for reasons I cannot explain now.
Measuring the offset goes like this:
Zero the offset: M206 Z0
Move the extruder off to the right: G0 X135
Home Z: G28 Z
Get some air under the nozzle: G0 Z4.0
Measure the actual clearance, perhaps using your taper gauge, at (let’s say) 1.7 mm
Set (1.7 – 4.0) as the offset: M206 Z-2.3
Print a box and adjust the offset accordingly
Using my actual measurement, not the for-instance example, I resliced the box, printed it, and it came out at 2.94 mm, just slightly short, so I re-tweaked the offset to Z-3.28 and re-stored it.
Embiggening the wall thickness turned out to be a matter of updating the filament diameter. I measured the start of the current spool of orange PETG at 1.75 mm, the same as the previous natural PETG spool, but the current section is 1.70 mm. Plugging that into Slic3r, reslicing, and reprinting produced a dead-on square: 3.00 mm tall with 1.20 mm walls:
Calibration Square series
The skirt now comes out at 0.25 mm, the way it should, too. The difference between the original 0.20 mm skirt and 0.25 mm suggests the squashed center thread (of the three in the skirt around the first set of five boxes) forced the two adjacent threads to become a bit taller, for lack of somewhere for the excess plastic to go on one side of each thread, and the nozzle rode higher than you’d (well, I’d) expect from the bare numbers.
The picture is missing a few squares in the middle, because I couldn’t believe changing the G28 Z-2.15 offset had no effect. It was easier to believe I’d inadvertently loaded the wrong file than the software / firmware was doing something wrong.
However, during the course of the adventure, I established M851 does exactly nothing in this context, perhaps because it applies to some different type of homing / probing / mesh leveling / whatever. You can set the Z offset with several other G-Code and M-Code commands, but the documentation isn’t always forthcoming about how the various methods interact and different firmware uses identical codes for completely different functions, so proceed with Exceedingly Great Caution.
In any event, it’s much easier and faster to adjust the printer & slicing parameters by measuring test boxes than by puzzling over actual prints, so …
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All of the (surviving) battery packs produce 9.0 to 9.2 V, a bit hotter than the pair of fully charged lithium cells the radio expects to see, but the first two radios lasted for six years under that abuse.
This one failed after a few hours. It’s a new radio, but I’m willing to assume I killed the thing and will just eat the cost.
I have no theories about what’s going on, but I must tweak my APRS interface to work with a Baofeng radio I have on the shelf.
From now on, though, both radios will run from their stock battery packs.
Emboldened by Erik’s suggestion to file the end of a smashed Sakura pen, I filed a notch around the metal snout, snapped it off, and pulled on the tip:
Sakura pen – extended nib
Come to find out the end of the snout is compressed around the nib and holds it in place. I don’t know how long the fiber cylinder might be, but it slides right out of the pen body.
So I squished the snout just a little, snipped off the metal tip, filed the fiber cylinder’s end to a point, and … it sorta-kinda works, but it’ll never again be a very good pen.
They’re supporting the snippets produced by trimming the clamp extrusions to fit across the bench under the MPCNC; I figure they ought to come in handy for something.
Both extrusions carry a warning sticker giving the bar’s serial number:
Harbor Freight Bar Clamp Labels
Huh.
I could be persuaded the number applies to a given production batch, although I’d be unsurprised to learn it’s a batch of labels, not clamps.
They don’t look much different than the previous versions:
MPCNC – bar clamp mount
The main change was to raise the bars by another 2 mm to give one of the clamp shoes more clearance. As you might expect, the top and bottom halves of the clamp castings aren’t quite symmetric.
The plastic mounts come in mirror-image sets due to that off-center bolt hole.
Yes, the threaded casting is slightly angled from the screw clamping force.
All in all, the mounts look pretty good, in a bright-orange sort of way.
Quite some time ago, Vedran described a silicone boot he put over the nozzle. Rather than building a mold and casting the RTV, I threw caution to the winds, ignored any acetic acid corrosion issues, and troweled a layer of RTV on the nozzle:
M2 – nozzle silicone – applied
That’s JB Weld Hi-Temp Red Silicone, rated up to 550 °F = 290 °C continuous operation, so it should be Just Fine at PETG’s usual 250 °C.
I slipped the rebuilt thermistor into its hole, slipped the hot end back into the M2’s extruder, raised it a bit higher than it was before, fired up the M2, and …
Home the X axis
Set X offset: G28 X-100
Move it off to the right: G0 X130
Home the Z axis
Set Z offset: G28 Z-2.15
The Y axis is pretty near the middle, so it’s all good
Move the nozzle to the middle: G0 X0
Move the platform to Z=0: G0 Z0
N.B.: I have the XY=0 origin in the middle of the platform, so don’t do like I do and expect it to work if you put the origin elsewhere.
Then loosen the hot end clamp, slide the hot end down until the nozzle touches the platform, tighten the clamp, and the tip of the nozzle should be pretty close to where it started out:
M2 – nozzle silicone – Z 0.0 set
The microswitch in the background senses the top of the platform, eliminating all the putzing around everybody else does to get a consistent Z offset. I verified the switch trip point by sliding my trusty Starrett No. 270 Taper Gage under the lever until it tripped at 2.1 mm; about as close to 2.15 mm as one might hope for.
The PETG hairs I described in the original post were conspicuous by their absence. It’s too early to tell if the silicone coating is a complete cure, but at least it’s not causing any obvious problems.
The skirt around those parts came out close enough to its nominal 0.25 mm layer thickness:
M2 – nozzle alignment – skirt thickness
I must print some calibration squares to verify the platform alignment and the overall height.
Just for completeness, here’s looking up at the new nozzle, snug inside its fuzzy fiberglas insulating wrap, with a PETG strand drooling from its orifice:
M2 – nozzle silicone – bottom view
I really should order a couple of thermistors, a cartridge heater, and maybe a nozzle …