The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Whirlpool Refrigerator Drawer Strut Tab Replacement

    The tab supporting the strut with the center slides for the lower drawers in our Whirlpool refrigerator broke of its own accord. This is a problem of long standing, somewhat exacerbated by the fact that lifting the strut will break the tab without much effort at all, but this time the drawers pulled the strut downward hard enough to not only break the tab, but also tear the small tabs that align the bracket right out of the frame.

    While pondering the problem, I glued the broken chunk back into the frame:

    Refrigerator Drawer Strut - clamping front plate
    Refrigerator Drawer Strut – clamping front plate

    We agreed that, after nigh onto two decades, it would be OK to swap the position of the two drawers, so as to let the strut use the undamaged part of the frame seen below. Presumably, we’ll eventually get used to having the apples on the right and the veggies on the left.

    But it was obvious Something Serious Had To Be Done about the tab.

    The tab should align like this inside the frame:

    Refrigerator Drawer Strut Tab - alignment
    Refrigerator Drawer Strut Tab – alignment

    The rightmost part of the tab rests atop a U-shaped metal bar that also supports and stiffens the entire front of the frame, but cantilevering the weight of both drawers on that extended tab overpowered my last attempt at making a glue joint. Soooo, I decided to build a (wait for it …) 3D printed part that screws firmly to the front of the strut.

    The first step involved introducing the strut to Mr Belt Sander to strip the wreckage of the OEM tab from the front end (visible through the opening) and smooth things out, then measuring the remainder. The locating flange inside the frame almost defeated me, but eventually I found a tool that fit inside the strut opening and around the flange:

    Refrigerator Drawer - measuring flange
    Refrigerator Drawer – measuring flange

    Which produced a sketch of the key dimensions:

    Refrigerator Drawer Strut - Dimension Doodles
    Refrigerator Drawer Strut – Dimension Doodles

    Which became an extruded polygon with a few holes punched in the side:

    Refrigerator Shelf Strut Tab - solid model
    Refrigerator Shelf Strut Tab – solid model

    Building it standing up wraps the plastic threads around the entire tab and stacks the layers along the length of the tab. Doing it lying down in the obvious hump-up orientation would put the layers parallel to the bottom surface, where they can pull apart under load.

    The key innovation here involves being willing to assemble the tab to the strut in situ, without insisting it fit through the frame opening and be more-or-less easily removable. That let me bulk up the tab to match the end of the strut, fill the entire frame opening with plastic, and get enough bulk for a pair of 4-40 screws that, being loaded in shear, should withstand the weight of all those fruits & veggies in the drawers.

    The screws simply thread into the holes in the tab, without benefit of tapping. The OpenSCAD code now includes a pair of nut traps, but I’m hoping they won’t be needed.

    The new tab really does fill the space available:

    Refrigerator Drawer Strut - new tab in place
    Refrigerator Drawer Strut – new tab in place

    The OpenSCAD code now moves the notch half a millimeter further away from the strut to center it over the ridge. What’s not obvious is how the frame slants toward the tab over the U-bar: the tab just barely clears and probably should have a tapered nose. You may add that if you like.

    The U-shaped bar constrains the tab pretty firmly and supports the end, which should now be plump enough to withstand the forces involved. The screws sit horizontally with the frame installed and can’t pull out, which is why I think they can get along without nut traps.

    It’s built in cyan PETG with three perimeter threads and 40% 3D Honeycomb fill, making it essentially a solid block of plastic; it’ll be interesting to see what fails next.

    The OpenSCAD source code, which I hammered out in a white-hot fury:

    // Refrigerator Shelf Strut Tab
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU December 2015
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    TabSize = [20.0,12.0,35.0];							// length from bracket, height, width along front
    
    SlotSize = [3.0,7.0];
    SlotX = 7.0;
    
    TabProfile = [
    	[0,0],
    	[12,0],	[12,7.0],
    	[TabSize[0],7.0], [TabSize[0],TabSize[1]],
    	[SlotX + SlotSize[0]/2,TabSize[1]],
    	[SlotX + SlotSize[0]/2,5.0], [SlotX - SlotSize[0]/2,5.0],
    	[SlotX - SlotSize[0]/2,TabSize[1]],
    	[0,TabSize[1]]
    ];
    
    ScrewY = 7.0;
    ScrewOC = 25.0;
    ScrewOD = 2.5;
    
    NutOD = 6.6;					// across flats
    NutThick = 2.5;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    		h=Height,
    	$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it
    
    difference() {
    	linear_extrude(height=TabSize[2],convexity=4)
    		polygon(points=TabProfile);
    	
    	for (i=[-1,1]) {
    		translate([-Protrusion,ScrewY,i*ScrewOC/2 + TabSize[2]/2])
    			rotate([0,90,0])
    				rotate(180/6)
    					PolyCyl(ScrewOD,SlotX,6);
    		translate([SlotX - SlotSize[0]/2 - NutThick - Protrusion,ScrewY,i*ScrewOC/2 + TabSize[2]/2])
    			rotate([0,90,0])
    				rotate(180/6)
    					PolyCyl(NutOD,NutThick + SlotSize[0],6);
    	}
    }
    

    Maybe that’ll last until we finally scrap out the refrigerator…

  • SquidWrench Power Wheels Racer: Power Train Autopsy

    The Power Wheels Racer taking shape at SquidWrench let out The Big Stink at the Mini Maker Faire a few weeks ago, so I brought some test equipment to the regular Weekly Doing and helped with the autopsy.

    The PWM motor controller purports to do 60 A at up to 50 V, but removing the cover showed it wasn’t going to do any more controlling:

    Motor Controller - smoked housing
    Motor Controller – smoked housing

    That smudge came from a rank of detonated MOSFETs:

    Motor Controller - exploded MOSFET
    Motor Controller – exploded MOSFET

    Other MOSFETs had unsoldered themselves:

    Motor Controller - unsoldered MOSFETs
    Motor Controller – unsoldered MOSFETs

    Explosively:

    Motor Controller - solder ejecta
    Motor Controller – solder ejecta

    I brought along an ancient Sears starter-motor ammeter to measure the motor current:

    Sears 244-2145 Starter Ammeter - front
    Sears 244-2145 Starter Ammeter – front

    The magnetic field around the wire directly drives the meter movement, with two guides for the 75 A and 400 A ranges, and none of that newfangled Hall effect nonsense to contend with:

    Sears 244-2145 Starter Ammeter - wire guides
    Sears 244-2145 Starter Ammeter – wire guides

    Yeah, that says FEB 79; I’ve been collecting tools for quite a while…

    I slapped the motor connectors directly on the battery terminals, holding them with small locking pliers after discovering that the wires got way too hot, way too fast. A snippet of retroreflective tape on the motor sprocket and a laser tach gave us the speed:

    • 12 V: 1600 RPM @ 40 A
    • 24 V: 2400 RPM @ > 100 A

    The AmpFlow E30-400 motor data sheet confirmed that those numbers were grossly wrong. Unloaded, it should spin at 5700 RPM at 24 V while drawing 3.2 A (thus, 2800 RPM at 12 V & 1.6 A).

    Diassembling the motor showed it hadn’t escaped the carnage:

    Motor - charred windings
    Motor – charred windings

    Those windings should be the usual amber enamel-over-copper, not charred black. The excessive current and reduced speed suggests many shorted turns inside the rotor.

    Protip: never disassemble a working DC motor, because you’ll demagnetize the stator. The motor should still run when you put it back together, but the reduced magnetic field will wreck the performance.

    As nearly as we could tell, one of the motor wires shorted to the frame when it got pinched under the seat; that’s an easy mistake to make and shows why compulsive wire neatness pays off big time. Shorting the controller output blew the transistors and, after raising the seat to look underneath, the motor would cook itself without generating much torque while you figure out what happened.

    As far as I’m concerned, if you’ve never blown up anything that severely, you’re not building interesting stuff and definitely not trying hard enough.

    The next iteration should work better!

    Thanks to Dragorn of Kismet for stepping into the stench with phone camera in hand…

  • Epson R380 CISS Clamp Repair

    The Epson R380 started making an odd thwapping noise, which turned out to be the ink tubes from the Continuous Ink Supply System slapping the overly complex interior of the printer. They seemed a bit loose, but it took some searching before I found the top of the clamp that holds them in place:

    Epson R380 CISS hose clamp - broken
    Epson R380 CISS hose clamp – broken

    It’s the white rectangle nestled in front of the ink cartridges, where it fits perfectly into a convenient slot and looks like it grew there.

    I briefly considered 3D printing a replacement, but came to my senses:

    Epson R380 CISS hose clamp - fixed
    Epson R380 CISS hose clamp – fixed

    That should be good until the silicone rubber tubes finally break after a bazillion flex cycles…

  • Neopixel Knockoff: Early Failure

    About a week after First Light, one of the knockoff Neopixels (not a Genuine Adafruit Product) suffered an intermittent failure: it worked fine after being off for an hour or two, but eventually stalled at a fixed color, with all downstream pixels equally dead. Of course, it was the middle package in the string of three, buried in the hub (this is before the failure):

    Hard Drive Mood Light - low angle
    Hard Drive Mood Light – low angle

    Spraying circuit cooler on the package brought it back to life for a few minutes, confirming the diagnosis. Reducing the maximum intensity to PWM 32 reduced the average power dissipation enough to let it run for as long as I was willing to let it, although it might not survive a hot summer day.

    Not having glued the spacers onto the hub simplified extracting the strip, although warranty repair is always a nuisance. I daubed red Sharpie on the failing LED to avoid losing track of it, then resoldered the LED and capacitor connections to no avail:

    Knockoff Neopixel Failure - overview
    Knockoff Neopixel Failure – overview

    There’s nothing obviously wrong inside:

    Knockoff Neopixel Failure - detail
    Knockoff Neopixel Failure – detail

    The fine details of the WS2812B controller produce a horrible Moiré blur with the camera’s low-res image, but you get the general idea.

    Most likely, one of those flying wires isn’t quite bonded, but we’ll never know…

  • Tecumseh 36638 Throttle Knob

    The upper-left tab broke off this “knob” shortly after we got the leaf shredder:

    Throttle knob - broken original
    Throttle knob – broken original

    But it worked well enough that, following my usual course of action, I could ignore the problem. Until a few days ago, that is, when the remaining tab on that end pulled out of the slot on the engine and the whole affair bent into uselessness.

    It’s a $10 item from eBay (with free shipping), $8 from Amazon ($4, not eligible for Prime, so plus $4 shipping), out of stock at my usual online small engine source, and not worth biking a few dozen miles here & there to see if anybody has one. I know better than to look for repair parts at Lowe’s / Home Depot. It’s Tecumseh Part 36638, which may come in handy some day.

    So, we begin…

    It’s one of those pesky injection-molded miracle plastic doodads that can’t be printed in one piece, so I designed the tabs as separate parts and glued them in place. The solid model shows the intended assembly, with a bit of clearance around the tabs for tolerance and glue slop:

    Tecumseh Throttle Knob - solid model - show view
    Tecumseh Throttle Knob – solid model – show view

    External clearances aren’t an issue, so I made the base plate longer, wider, and thicker, which gave the tabs something to grab onto. The half-round knob is bigger, more angular, and uglier than the OEM knob, because I had trouble holding onto the original while wearing work gloves.

    Printing a few extra tabs allows the inevitable finger fumble:

    Throttle knob - on platform
    Throttle knob – on platform

    The tabs stand on edge to properly orient the printed threads around the perimeter: a great force will try to rip that triangular feature right off the tab, so wrapping the thread as shown maximizes the strength. Laying them flat on their backs would put the force in shear, exactly parallel to thread-to-thread bonds; I wouldn’t bet on the strength of those layers.

    The brim provides enough platform footprint around the tabs to keep them upright, but obviously isn’t needed around the knob. Although you could wrap a modifier mesh around one or the other, trimming the brim off the knob with a precision scissors seemed more straightforward.

    Slobbering generous drops of of IPS #4 solvent adhesive into the slots and over the tabs softened the PETG enough that I could ram the tabs into place, using a big pliers to overcome their feeble resistance:

    Throttle knob - glued latches
    Throttle knob – glued latches

    With the plastic still dazed from the fumes, I force-fit the knob into the slot on the engine:

    Throttle knob - installed
    Throttle knob – installed

    The tabs eased back into position and seem to be holding the knob in place. Worst case: make a new knob, butter up the tabs with slow epoxy, ram knob into slot, then poke a screwdriver inside to realign the tabs against the slot edges.

    The solvent had a few cloudy days to evaporate before the next shredding session, whereupon the throttle once again worked exactly the way it should.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Tecumseh 36638 Throttle Knob
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2015
    
    Layout = "Build";					// Build Show Tab Base
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    BaseSize = [40,14,3.0];							// overall base plate outside engine controller slot
    
    Knob = [18,BaseSize[1],17];
    
    TabSize = [7.5,1.6,6.0];						// ovarall length, minimum width, overall height
    TabSocket = [8.0,2.0,BaseSize[2] - 2*ThreadThick];				// recess in base plate for tab 
    
    TabOuterSpace = 30.0;							// end-to-end length over tabs - sets travel distance
    SlotWidth = 7.75;								// engine controller slot width
    SlotThick = 1.5;								// engine controller slot thickness
    
    TabShape = [
    	[0,0],
    	[BaseSize[2] + TabSize[2],0],
    	[BaseSize[2] + TabSize[2],ThreadWidth],
    	[BaseSize[2] + SlotThick,2*TabSize[1]],
    	[BaseSize[2] + SlotThick,TabSize[1]],
    	[0,TabSize[1]]
    ];
    
    CapBaseOpening = [11,7.5,15];			// opening in base plate, Z = clearance from controller plate
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    		h=Height,
    	$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Pieces
    
    module Tab() {
    	
    	linear_extrude(height=TabSize[0]) {
    		polygon(points=TabShape);
    	}
    }
    
    
    module Base() {
    	
    	CornerRad = BaseSize[1]/8;
    
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    			linear_extrude(height=BaseSize[2])
    				hull()
    					for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) 
    						translate([i*(BaseSize[0]/2- CornerRad),j*(BaseSize[1]/2 - CornerRad)])
    							circle(r=CornerRad,$fn=4*4);
    			translate([Knob[0]/2,0,BaseSize[2] - Protrusion])
    				rotate([0,-90,0])
    					linear_extrude(height=Knob[0])
    						hull() {
    							translate([Knob[2] - Knob[1]/2,0])
    								circle(d=Knob[1],$fn=8*4);
    							translate([0,-Knob[1]/2,0])
    								square([Protrusion,Knob[1]]);
    						}
    		}
    		
    		translate([-CapBaseOpening[0]/2,-CapBaseOpening[1]/2,-Protrusion])
    			cube(CapBaseOpening + [0,0,-CapBaseOpening[1]/2 + Protrusion],center=false);
    			
    		translate([0,0,CapBaseOpening[2] - CapBaseOpening[1]/2])
    			rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/8)
    				cylinder(d=CapBaseOpening[1]/cos(180/8),h=CapBaseOpening[0],center=true,$fn=8);
    				
    		for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    			translate([i*(TabOuterSpace/2 - TabSocket[0]/2),j*(SlotWidth/2 - TabSocket[1]/2),TabSocket[2]/2 - Protrusion])
    				cube(TabSocket + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);
    	}
    }
    
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it
    
    if (Layout == "Base")
    	Base();
    	
    if (Layout == "Tab")
    	Tab();
    	
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	Base();
    	
    		for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    			translate([i*(TabOuterSpace/2 - TabSocket[0]/2),j*(SlotWidth/2 - TabSocket[1]/2),0])
    				translate([j < 0 ? TabSize[0]/2 : -TabSize[0]/2,j < 0 ? TabSize[1]/2 : -TabSize[1]/2,BaseSize[2] - 2*ThreadThick])
    					rotate([0,90,j < 0 ? -180 : 0])
    					Tab();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	Base();
    	
    	for (i=[0:5])					// build a few spares
    		translate([-7*TabSocket[1] + i*3*TabSocket[1],BaseSize[1],0])
    			rotate(90)
    				Tab();
    }
    

    The original doodle showing the OEM knob dimensions and some failed attempts at fancy features:

    Tecumseh Throttle Knob - doodles
    Tecumseh Throttle Knob – doodles
  • Painting By Numbers

    The south- and snowplow-facing numbers on the mailbox weren’t up to the challenge:

    Mailbox - faded numbers
    Mailbox – faded numbers

    I wiped the crud off the reflective labels with denatured alcohol before painting, but that was the extent of the surface preparation.

    I’m not getting graded on my ability to paint within the lines using a foam brush and that’s a Good Thing:

    Mailbox - repainted numbers
    Mailbox – repainted numbers

    That’s Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, chosen entirely because it was oil-based, outdoor-rated, and near the front of the shelf. I’m not going to topcoat it; that stuff is on its own. The slight color variations show still-wet primer here & there.

    The north-facing numbers were in better shape, so a few dabs covered the obvious problems.

    Hey, I wiped that peeling paint off the top of the box, too…

  • Amazon Packaging

    Restocking the AA and AAA alkaline cell supply delivered this example of underprotection from Amazon:

    Amazon Packaging - alkaline batteries
    Amazon Packaging – alkaline batteries

    I think that scrap of plastic was once an air pillow, but it sure didn’t last long and definitely didn’t fill the entire space around the boxes.

    Allowing that much mass to thrash around inside the box can’t possibly be a Good Thing, even if the cells weren’t damaged. One would hope they’d do a better job with lithium cells.

    I’ve seen worse