Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
A needle case emerged from the bottom of a drawer in need of repair:
Needle Case – unglued
The original joint used solvent glue and I suppose I could refresh it with acetone, but two blobs of hot melt glue seemed easier and, IMO, more durable.
In any event, it’s once more ready for use:
Needle Case – repaired
Hooray for another zero-dollar repair, although you can see why nobody else does them these days.
I was given a spare presser foot to demonstrate my case:
Kenmore 158 Presser Foot – original – front
The overhead light in the shop produces glare from the nice, shiny steel surfaces similar to what Mary sees from the sewing machine.
A few minutes applying 220 grit blast media with Tiny Sandblaster™ definitely changed its appearance:
Kenmore 158 Presser Foot – sandblasted – front
In person, the finish is neutral gray overall, with those odd brown areas appearing only in photographs, perhaps due to the various lights in the shop. The slight texture variations seem to correspond to minor differences in the plating (?) over the steel surface. It definitely cuts down the glare:
Kenmore 158 Presser Foot – sandblasted vs original
The needle clamp and screw across the top of that picture travel up and down, so we decided to deglare them along with the “good” foot:
Kenmore 158 – foot with needle clamp – original
Another Tiny Sandblaster™ session knocked back their shine:
Kenmore 158 – foot with needle clamp – sandblasted
Those parts came out slightly less matte, perhaps due to reduced pressure in the propellant can. Seeing as how I’ve had the sandblaster for a couple of decades, I figured it’s time to use the propellant but, as expected, the in-can valve doesn’t re-seal properly, so I’ll be using compressed air the next time around.
After rinsing and blowing and rinsing and blowing the grit out of the threads, everything went back together as expected:
Kenmore 158 – sandblasted hardware installed
I’m not doing either of the plates until we have more experience with the matte hardware, but it looks pretty good to me.
Spotted at the corner gas station, where they collectwrecks before harvesting their organs:
Car vs Pole
As far as we can tell, the car clipped the pole off at the base, whereupon it smashed down across the roof, leaving the trunk unscathed. The lack of blood on the airbag suggests the driver lived to tell the tale, although we’ll never know the rest of the story.
A collection of random stuff tossed on the back seat included a license plate bent into a surprisingly gentle curve.
After a day of snow + sleet + ice, followed by overnight cooling, the bird feeder looked like this:
2019-12-19 – Ice on bird feeder – Day 0
The ice generally doesn’t bond across the top, so the sheets slide off separately to the front and back. This time, they stayed together and began sliding off to the side.
The next two days were unusually cold and the glacier stopped sliding:
2019-12-21 – Ice on bird feeder – Day 2
The temperature warmed enough during the day to let the glacier resume sliding, whereupon it fell and shattered on the patio.
No birds or squirrels were injured during this incident.
Long ago, in a universe far away, my buddy Mark One mis-read a unit of measure and ended up with a trailer load a’ Tektronix Thermal Paper. It carried a silver-based emulsion requiring constant refrigeration, so he stashed about a pallet of paper canisters under every raised floor on the IBM Poughkeepsie campus. Even though the raised floor acreage has dropped dramatically, some of it may be there to this very day.
This came about while tinkering up a shade for a repurposed LED downlight:
PVC fitting – boring setup
It’s a 4 inch DWV pipe coupling I bored out to fit the LED housing, which was ever so slightly larger than the pipe OD.
Cutting it off required as much workspace as the poor little lathe had:
PVC fitting – cutoff setup
Ignore the toolpost handle across the top. What’s important: the cutoff blade poking out of the QCTP, above the orange carriage stop lock lever, extending just far enough to cut through the coupling’s wall before the compound hits the coupling. The compound slide is all the way out against the cross-slide DRO, rotated at the only angle putting the tool where it needs to be and clearing the end of the coupling.
It ended reasonably well:
PVC fitting – LED floor lamp
But, in retrospect, was hideously bad practice. Next time, I’ll make a fixture to hold the fitting on a faceplate.