The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Sewing

Fabric arts and machines

  • Kenmore 158: ET227 Transistor Drive Gain

    A closer look at the collector voltage and current for the brute-force ET227 NPN transistor motor drive:

    Model 158 - 77 mA base VCE 200 mA div
    Model 158 – 77 mA base VCE 200 mA div

    The motor current (200 mA/div) never goes to zero, but the ET227 collector voltage hits zero as the transistor saturates: the motor winding soaks up all the available line voltage and the transistor dissipation drops close to zero. The datasheet suggests VCE(sat) < 0.1 V for IC < 5 A, albeit with IB = 30 A (!).

    The ET227 base drive was 77 mA, measured on a better meter than the low-resolution one in the power supply, and the transistor gain works out to 8 = 620 mA / 77 mA along those flat tops.

    Eyeballometrically speaking, the dissipation averages 50 W = 90 V x 620 mA during those spiky sections where the transistor must absorb the difference between the line voltage and the motor voltage. The cursors say that takes 5 ms of the 8.3 ms period of the 120 Hz full wave rectified power, so the duty cycle is 42% and the average average dissipation works out to 20 W. That’s still enough to warm up that big heatsink; the motor driver will need a thermal sensor and a quiet fan.

    That commutation noise looks pretty scary, doesn’t it?

    The test setup:

    Kenmore 158 - AC motor FW ET227 drive - test setup
    Kenmore 158 – AC motor FW ET227 drive – test setup

    The bridge rectifier doesn’t really need a heatsink, but it looked better for a Circuit Cellar picture…

  • Image File Recovery Redux

    Took a picture of the sewing machine setup with the Sony DSC-F717, transferred it into DigiKam, got the “done transferring, you can disconnect the camera” message, believed it, disconnected the camera, deleted the image file, and then discovered that DigiKam mislaid the image file.

    Rather than re-set-up and re-take the shot, I followed my own directions and recovered the image from the Memory Stick:

    dmesg | tail
    [43176.079853] usb 2-1.6.3: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0
    [43176.079855] usb 2-1.6.3: Product: Sony PTP
    [43176.079856] usb 2-1.6.3: Manufacturer: Sony
    [43198.073652] usb 2-1.6.3: USB disconnect, device number 22
    [43333.788533] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdc] 1947648 512-byte logical blocks: (997 MB/951 MiB)
    [43333.803292] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdc] No Caching mode page found
    [43333.803299] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdc] Assuming drive cache: write through
    [43333.824681] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdc] No Caching mode page found
    [43333.824688] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdc] Assuming drive cache: write through
    [43333.825491]  sdc: sdc1
    sudo dd if=/dev/sdc of=/tmp/pix.bin bs=1M
    ^C615+0 records in
    614+0 records out
    643825664 bytes (644 MB) copied, 38.5841 s, 16.7 MB/s
    strings -t x pix.bin | grep Exif | head
      68006 Exif
     208006 Exif
     3f8005 _Exif
     7b8006 Exif
    13d8006 Exif
    15b0005 wExif
    1798005 CExif
    19c0006 Exif
    1b90006 Exif
    1f98005 %Exif
    dd if=pix.bin of=image03.jpg bs=$((16#1000)) count=1K skip=$((16#3f8))
    1024+0 records in
    1024+0 records out
    4194304 bytes (4.2 MB) copied, 0.0121431 s, 345 MB/s
    display image03.jpg
    convert image03.jpg dsc00656.jpg
    

    Obviously, there was a bit more flailing around than you see here, but that’s the gist of the adventure. For what it’s worth, image01 was a random blurred shot and image02 is the ID picture I keep on all my cameras.

    The convert step discards all the junk after the end of the image, so the dsc00656.jpg file doesn’t include anything unexpected.

    The picture isn’t all that much to look at, even after cropping out the background, but …

    Kenmore 158 - stepper drive test
    Kenmore 158 – stepper drive test

    The advantage of the manual method: renewing one’s acquaintance with tools that come in handy for other tasks.

  • Generating Button Images With ImageMagick

    Starting with the hints and commands at ImageMagick Advanced Techniques for Gel Effects, I came up with a script that spits out colorful gel-flavored buttons:

    convert -size 120x64 xc:none -fill red -draw "roundrectangle 10,10 110,54 8,8" \
      gel_shape.png
    #display gel_shape.png
    convert gel_shape.png \
      \( +clone -alpha extract -blur 0x12 -shade 110x0 \
      -normalize -sigmoidal-contrast 16,60% -evaluate multiply .5\
      -roll +4+8 +clone -compose Screen -composite \) \
      -compose In  -composite \
      gel_highlight.png
    #display gel_highlight.png
    convert gel_highlight.png \
      \( +clone -alpha extract  -blur 0x2 -shade 0x90 -normalize \
      -blur 0x2  +level 60,100%  -alpha On \) \
      -compose Multiply -composite \
       gel_border.png
    #display gel_border.png
    convert gel_border.png \
      -font Verdana-Bold  -pointsize 20  -fill white  -stroke black \
      -gravity Center  -annotate 0 "Jelly"  -trim -repage 0x0+7+7 \
      \( +clone -background navy -shadow 80x4+4+4 \) +swap \
      -background snow4  -flatten \
      gel_button.png
    convert gel_button.png -type truecolor Gelly24.bmp
    display -resize 300% Gelly24.bmp
    

    I could not ever figure that stuff out on my own.

    For some reason, WordPress chokes when uploading the starting shape as a PNG file, so here it is as a JPG with a black border replacing the original transparency:

     

    gel_shape
    gel_shape

    With the gel highlight:

    gel_highlight
    gel_highlight

    Adding a border:

    gel_border
    gel_border

    Adding text, shadow, and background:

    gel_button
    gel_button

    Adding the drop shadow may increase the image size ever so slightly, so the -repage 0x0+7+7 operation may require resetting the exact image size.

    The final step converts the PNG image into the 24-bit uncompressed BMP format required by the Adafruit routine that slaps it into the TFT display:

    Adafruit TFT display - timing demo
    Adafruit TFT display – timing demo

    The smaller buttons came directly from The GIMP, with full-frontal manual control over everything. Obviously, that doesn’t scale well for many buttons that should all look pretty much the same, because you want to get your fingers out of the loop.

    But, obviously, when you do this on a mass scale, you want better control over the colors and text and suchlike; that’s in the nature of fine tuning when it’s needed.

    I’m not entirely convinced I want gel-flavored buttons, but it was a fun exercise.

  • Saddest Arduino Demo

    The Adafruit 2.8 inch TFT Touch Shield for Arduino v2 seems just about ideal for a small control panel, such as one might use with a modified sewing machine. All you need is a few on-screen buttons, a few status display, and a bit of Arduino love: what more could one ask?

    So I gimmicked up some small buttons with GIMP, made two large buttons with ImageMagick, and lashed together some Arduino code based on the Adafruit demo:

    Adafruit TFT display - timing demo
    Adafruit TFT display – timing demo

    The picture doesn’t do justice to the display: it’s a nice piece of hardware that produces a crisp image. The moire patterns come from the interaction of TFT display pixels / camera pixels / image resizing.

    It’s not obvious from the Adafruit description, but the display is inherently portrait-mode as shown. The (0,0) origin lies in the upper left corner, just over the DC power jack, and screen buffer updates proceed left-to-right, top-to-bottom from there.

    The gotcha: even with the Arduino Mega’s hardware SPI, writing the full display requires nearly 4 seconds. Yeah, slow-scan TV in action.  Writing the screen with a solid color requires several seconds.

    After commenting out the serial tracing instructions from the Adafruit demo and tweaking a few other things, these timings apply:

    -------------
    Writing background
    Elapsed: 3687
    Writing six buttons
    Elapsed: 529
    Overwriting six buttons
    Elapsed: 531
    Rewriting buttons 10 times
    Elapsed: 1767
    Overwriting 2 large buttons
    Elapsed: 1718
    

    The timings work out to:

    • Background: 240×320 → 48 µs/pixel
    • Smaller buttons: 50×25 → 71 µs/pixel → 88 ms/button
    • Rewriting one button: 71 µs/pixel
    • Larger buttons: 120×64 → 56 µs/pixel → 430 ms/button

    The button images come from BMP files on a MicroSD card and 8 KB of RAM won’t suffice for even a small button. Instead, the transfer loop buffers 20 pixels = 60 bytes from the card, writes them to the display, and iterates until it’s done.

    Trust me on this: watching the buttons gradually change is depressing.

    Yes, it could work as a control panel for the sewing machine, but it doesn’t have nearly the pep we’ve come to expect from touch-screen gadgetry. On the other paw, Arduinos are 8-bit microcontrollers teleported from the mid-90s, when crappy 20×4 LCD panels were pretty much as good as it got.

    The SPI hardware clock runs at half the oscillator frequency = 16 MHz/2 = 8 MHz = 125 ns/bit. Clocking a single byte thus requires 1 µs; even allowing that each pixel = 3 bytes = 6 SPI operations, there’s a lot of software overhead ripe for the chopping block. I’d be sorely tempted to write a pair of unrolled loops that read 20 pixels and write 20 pixels with little more than a pointer increment & status spin between successive SPI transfers.

    It’ll make hotshot C++ programmers flinch, but splicing all that into a single routine, throwing out all the clipping and error checking, and just getting it done might push the times down around 20 µs/pixel. Admittedly, that’s barely twice as fast, but should be less depressing.

    However, even with all that effort, the time required to update the screen will clobber the motor control. You can’t devote a big fraction of a second to rewriting a button at the same time you’re monitoring the pedal position, measuring the motor speed, and updating the control voltage. That’s the same problem that makes Arduino microcontrollers inadequate for contemporary 3D printers: beyond a certain point, the hardware is fighting your efforts, not helping you get things done.

    A reasonable workaround: no screen updates while the motor turns, because you shouldn’t have any hands free while you’re sewing.

    There’s also no way to make up for not having enough RAM or video hardware. The same display runs full-speed video on a Raspberry Pi…

    The Arduino source code, hacked from the Adafruit demo:

    // 2.8 inch TFT display exercise
    // Crudely hacked from Adafruit demo code: spitftbitmap.ino
    // 2014-07-03 Ed Nisley KE4ZNU
    
    /***************************************************
      This is our Bitmap drawing example for the Adafruit ILI9341 Breakout and Shield
      ----> http://www.adafruit.com/products/1651
    
      Check out the links above for our tutorials and wiring diagrams
      These displays use SPI to communicate, 4 or 5 pins are required to
      interface (RST is optional)
      Adafruit invests time and resources providing this open source code,
      please support Adafruit and open-source hardware by purchasing
      products from Adafruit!
    
      Written by Limor Fried/Ladyada for Adafruit Industries.
      MIT license, all text above must be included in any redistribution
     ****************************************************/
    
    #include <Adafruit_GFX.h>    // Core graphics library
    #include "Adafruit_ILI9341.h" // Hardware-specific library
    #include <SPI.h>
    #include <SD.h>
    
    #define TFT_DC 9
    #define TFT_CS 10
    Adafruit_ILI9341 tft = Adafruit_ILI9341(TFT_CS, TFT_DC);
    
    #define SD_CS 4
    
    unsigned long MillisNow, MillisThen;
    
    void setup(void) {
      Serial.begin(115200);
    
      tft.begin();
      tft.fillScreen(ILI9341_BLACK);
    
      Serial.print(F("Initializing SD card..."));
      if (!SD.begin(SD_CS)) {
        Serial.println(F("failed!"));
      }
      Serial.println(F("OK!"));
    
    }
    
    void loop() {
      Serial.println(F("--------------"));
      Serial.println(F("Writing background"));
      MillisThen = millis();
    
      bmpDraw("Test1.bmp", 0, 0);
    
      MillisNow = millis();
      Serial.print(F("" Elapsed: ""));
      Serial.println(MillisNow - MillisThen);
    
      Serial.println(F("Writing 6 small buttons"));
      MillisThen = millis();
    
      bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",10,10);
      bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",10,50);
      bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",10,100);
    
      bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",80,25);
      bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",80,75);
      bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",80,125);
    
      MillisNow = millis();
      Serial.print(F("" Elapsed: ""));
      Serial.println(MillisNow - MillisThen);
    
      Serial.println(F("Overwriting 6 small buttons"));
      MillisThen = millis();
    
      bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",10,10);
      bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",10,50);
      bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",10,100);
    
      bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",80,25);
      bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",80,75);
      bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",80,125);
    
      MillisNow = millis();
      Serial.print(F("" Elapsed: ""));
      Serial.println(MillisNow - MillisThen);
    
      Serial.println(F("Writing small button 10x2 times"));
      MillisThen = millis();
    
      for (byte i=0; i<10; i++) {
        bmpDraw("Grn50x25.bmp",10,175);
        bmpDraw("Red50x25.bmp",10,175);
      }
    
      MillisNow = millis();
      Serial.print(F("" Elapsed: ""));
      Serial.println(MillisNow - MillisThen);
    
      Serial.println(F("Overwriting 2 large buttons"));
      MillisThen = millis();  
    
      bmpDraw("GelDn.bmp",0,250);
      bmpDraw("GelUp.bmp",0,250);
    
      bmpDraw("GelUp.bmp",120,250);
      bmpDraw("GelDn.bmp",120,250);
    
      MillisNow = millis();
      Serial.print(F("" Elapsed: ""));
      Serial.println(MillisNow - MillisThen);
    
    }
    
    // This function opens a Windows Bitmap (BMP) file and
    // displays it at the given coordinates.  It's sped up
    // by reading many pixels worth of data at a time
    // (rather than pixel by pixel).  Increasing the buffer
    // size takes more of the Arduino's precious RAM but
    // makes loading a little faster.  20 pixels seems a
    // good balance.
    
    #define BUFFPIXEL 20
    
    void bmpDraw(char *filename, uint8_t x, uint16_t y) {
    
      File     bmpFile;
      int      bmpWidth, bmpHeight;   // W+H in pixels
      uint8_t  bmpDepth;              // Bit depth (currently must be 24)
      uint32_t bmpImageoffset;        // Start of image data in file
      uint32_t rowSize;               // Not always = bmpWidth; may have padding
      uint8_t  sdbuffer[3*BUFFPIXEL]; // pixel buffer (R+G+B per pixel)
      uint8_t  buffidx = sizeof(sdbuffer); // Current position in sdbuffer
      boolean  goodBmp = false;       // Set to true on valid header parse
      boolean  flip    = true;        // BMP is stored bottom-to-top
      int      w, h, row, col;
      uint8_t  r, g, b;
      uint32_t pos = 0, startTime = millis();
    
      if((x >= tft.width()) || (y >= tft.height())) return;
    
    //  Serial.println();
    //  Serial.print(F("Loading image '"));
    //  Serial.print(filename);
    //  Serial.println('\'');
    
      // Open requested file on SD card
      if ((bmpFile = SD.open(filename)) == NULL) {
    //    Serial.print(F("File not found"));
        return;
      }
    
      // Parse BMP header
      if(read16(bmpFile) == 0x4D42) { // BMP signature
    //    Serial.print(F("File size: "));
    //	Serial.println(read32(bmpFile));
    	read32(bmpFile);
        (void)read32(bmpFile); // Read & ignore creator bytes
        bmpImageoffset = read32(bmpFile); // Start of image data
    //    Serial.print(F("Image Offset: ")); Serial.println(bmpImageoffset, DEC);
        // Read DIB header
    //    Serial.print(F("Header size: "));
    //	Serial.println(read32(bmpFile));
    	read32(bmpFile);
        bmpWidth  = read32(bmpFile);
        bmpHeight = read32(bmpFile);
        if(read16(bmpFile) == 1) { // # planes -- must be '1'
          bmpDepth = read16(bmpFile); // bits per pixel
    //      Serial.print(F("Bit Depth: ")); Serial.println(bmpDepth);
          if((bmpDepth == 24) && (read32(bmpFile) == 0)) { // 0 = uncompressed
    
            goodBmp = true; // Supported BMP format -- proceed!
    //        Serial.print(F("Image size: "));
    //        Serial.print(bmpWidth);
    //        Serial.print('x');
    //        Serial.println(bmpHeight);
    
            // BMP rows are padded (if needed) to 4-byte boundary
            rowSize = (bmpWidth * 3 + 3) & ~3;
    
            // If bmpHeight is negative, image is in top-down order.
            // This is not canon but has been observed in the wild.
            if(bmpHeight < 0) {
              bmpHeight = -bmpHeight;
              flip      = false;
            }
    
            // Crop area to be loaded
            w = bmpWidth;
            h = bmpHeight;
            if((x+w-1) >= tft.width())  w = tft.width()  - x;
            if((y+h-1) >= tft.height()) h = tft.height() - y;
    
            // Set TFT address window to clipped image bounds
            tft.setAddrWindow(x, y, x+w-1, y+h-1);
    
            for (row=0; row<h; row++) { // For each scanline...
    
              // Seek to start of scan line.  It might seem labor-
              // intensive to be doing this on every line, but this
              // method covers a lot of gritty details like cropping
              // and scanline padding.  Also, the seek only takes
              // place if the file position actually needs to change
              // (avoids a lot of cluster math in SD library).
              if(flip) // Bitmap is stored bottom-to-top order (normal BMP)
                pos = bmpImageoffset + (bmpHeight - 1 - row) * rowSize;
              else     // Bitmap is stored top-to-bottom
                pos = bmpImageoffset + row * rowSize;
              if(bmpFile.position() != pos) { // Need seek?
                bmpFile.seek(pos);
                buffidx = sizeof(sdbuffer); // Force buffer reload
              }
    
              for (col=0; col<w; col++) { // For each pixel...
                // Time to read more pixel data?
                if (buffidx >= sizeof(sdbuffer)) { // Indeed
                  bmpFile.read(sdbuffer, sizeof(sdbuffer));
                  buffidx = 0; // Set index to beginning
                }
    
                // Convert pixel from BMP to TFT format, push to display
                b = sdbuffer[buffidx++];
                g = sdbuffer[buffidx++];
                r = sdbuffer[buffidx++];
                tft.pushColor(tft.color565(r,g,b));
              } // end pixel
            } // end scanline
    //        Serial.print(F("Loaded in "));
    //        Serial.print(millis() - startTime);
    //        Serial.println("" ms"");
          } // end goodBmp
        }
      }
    
      bmpFile.close();
      if(!goodBmp) Serial.println(F("BMP format not recognized."));
    }
    
    // These read 16- and 32-bit types from the SD card file.
    // BMP data is stored little-endian, Arduino is little-endian too.
    // May need to reverse subscript order if porting elsewhere.
    
    uint16_t read16(File &f) {
      uint16_t result;
      ((uint8_t *)&result)[0] = f.read(); // LSB
      ((uint8_t *)&result)[1] = f.read(); // MSB
      return result;
    }
    
    uint32_t read32(File &f) {
      uint32_t result;
      ((uint8_t *)&result)[0] = f.read(); // LSB
      ((uint8_t *)&result)[1] = f.read();
      ((uint8_t *)&result)[2] = f.read();
      ((uint8_t *)&result)[3] = f.read(); // MSB
      return result;
    }
    
  • Kenmore 158: NPN Transistor vs. Rectified 120 VAC

    Eks found some heavy-duty ET227 NPN transistors in his heap and put them on the basement steps for me … months ago, because he knew I’d be needing them.

    Mounting an ET227 on a massive CPU heatsink with thermal compound and wiring it in place of the failed MOSFET produces this lashup:

    Kenmore 158 - ET227 FW drive
    Kenmore 158 – ET227 FW drive

    The base drive comes directly from a bench supply and the collector sees full-wave rectified 120 VAC from the isolated Variac. The maximum base current rating of 40 A at DC suggests it’ll be difficult to screw this one up. The rectifier bridge doesn’t dissipate enough power to warm up, even without a heatsink.

    The SOA plot from the ET227 datasheet has the expected 1 kV and 100 A limits that you can’t actually reach under most conditions:

    ET227 - Safe Operating Area
    ET227 – Safe Operating Area

    The Kenmore 158 motor has a DC resistance of about 50 Ω, so the locked-rotor current won’t be more than about 3 A. The motor current runs around 700 mA with a voltage drop across the transistor ranging from 20 V to 50 V at normal operating conditions, so it’s just barely within the DC SOA. So far, my efforts to kill it by stalling the motor have been unavailing; I have four spares and Eks has at least five more in his heap.

    The ET227 has a 960 W (!) maximum dissipation on an ideal heatsink, so the piddly 35 W it might see here doesn’t amount to much. The heatsink should have a quiet demand-driven fan.

    The operating current is offscale low along the left edge of the DC Current Gain plot, which suggests a DC gain under 10:

    ET227 - DC Current Gain
    ET227 – DC Current Gain

    As it turned out, the gain was around 7, with 100 mA base drive producing 700 mA of collector current at VBE = 0.9 V, although that comes from the bench supply’s low-res meters. There being an exponential relation between the bench supply’s voltage output and the transistor’s base current, along with the motor’s square-law positive feedback, speed control was mmmm touchy.

    So the challenge will be stuffing 100 mA into a 1 V base voltage, with much better resolution and much less ripple than the usual Arduino PWM output, from an isolated supply. Given the amount of power I’m willing to burn in the ET227, a few more watts of base drive won’t make a bit of difference.

    Perhaps the best way to handle all the nonlinearities in the current control path will be an isolated current feedback monitor. Hello, Hall effect sensors … [sigh]

  • Kenmore 158: MOSFET vs. Rectified 120 VAC

    This arrangement actually worked:

    Kenmore 158 - FW bridge MOSFET test
    Kenmore 158 – FW bridge MOSFET test

    At least until I blew out the MOSFET, which is about what I expected. It’s screwed to that randomly selected heatsink, with a dab of thermal compound underneath.

    Incoming AC from an isolated variable transformer (basically, an isolated Variac) goes to a bridge rectifier. Rectified output: positive to the motor, motor to MOSFET drain, MOSFET source to negative.

    MOSFET gate from bench supply positive and supply negative to source.

    Hall effect current probe clamped around the motor current path.

    The MOSFET was an IRF610: 200 V / 3.3 A. That’s under-rated for what I was doing, but I had a bunch of ’em.

    I actually worked up to that mess, starting with the bare motor on the bench running from the 50 VDC supply. That sufficed to show that you can, in fact, control the motor speed by twiddling the gate voltage to regulate the current going into the motor. It also showed that a universal-wound motor’s square-law positive feedback loop will definitely require careful tuning; think of an unstable fly-by-wire airplane and you’ve got the general idea.

    In any event, flushed with success, I ignored the safe operating area graph (from the Vishay datasheet):

    IRF610 - Safe Operating Area
    IRF610 – Safe Operating Area

    Drain current over half an amp at 160-ish peak volts (from rectified 120 VAC) will kill the MOSFET unless you apply it as short single pulses, not repetitive 120 Hz hammerblows.

    I also ignored the transfer characteristics graph:

    IRF610 - Typical Transfer Characteristics
    IRF610 – Typical Transfer Characteristics

    The curve starting at the lower left should be labeled 25 °C and the other should be 150 °C. The key point is that they cross around VGS = 6.5 V, where IDS = 2 A. Below that point, the MOSFET conducts more current as it heats up… which means that if a small part of the die heats up, it will conduct more current, heat up even more, and eventually burn through.

    Yes, MOSFETs can suffer thermal runaway, too.

    The motor draws about half an amp while driving the sewing machine, which suggests the gate voltage will be around 5 V. In round numbers, it was 5.5 to 6 V as I twiddled the knob to maintain a constant speed.

    At half an amp, the MOSFET dissipated anywhere from a bit under 1 W (from RDS(on) = 1.5 Ω to well over 25 W (while trying to maintain headway with friction on the handwheel). I ran out of fingers to record the numbers, but dropping 10 to 20 V across the MOSFET seemed typical and that turns into 5 to 10 W.

    It eventually failed shorted and the sewing machine revved up to full speed. Sic transit gloria mundi.

    In any event, I think the only way to have a transistor survive that sort of abuse is to start with one so grossly over-rated that it can handle a few amps at 200 V without sweating. It might actually be easier to get an ordinary NPN transistor with such ratings; using a hockey puck IGBT or some such seems like overkill.

    Eks probably has a box full of the things …

  • Kenmore 158: Flipping the Pulley

    The sewing machine motor drives the handwheel through a double pulley on a jackshaft:

    Kenmore 158 - handwheel - jackshaft pulley
    Kenmore 158 – handwheel – jackshaft pulley

    I’ve been figuring a 10:1 speed reduction, based on counting revolutions and ignoring belt slip. The correct answer also depends on belt tension and whether you turn the motor or the handwheel.

    Measuring the pulley diameters isn’t straightforward, because the belt runs deep in the handwheel pulley (the brown smudge is near the rim, above) and high on the motor pulley:

    Kenmore 158 - NEMA 23 stepper - on adapter
    Kenmore 158 – NEMA 23 stepper – on adapter

    Measuring across the tops of the belt ribs on the pulleys gives these diameters:

    • Motor: 18 (or 16.6 at the belt midline = pulley OD)
    • Jackshaft large: 48
    • Jackshaft small: 24
    • Handwheel: 75

    The end-to-end ratio is either 8.3 or 9, depending on what you call the motor pulley. Either of those are close enough to 10:1 to allow for a turn or two of motor pulley slippage.

    Flipping the jackshaft pulley doesn’t quite work, as the pulley ends aren’t symmetrical, but I think it can be forced to align with the handwheel if I add a lathe-turned hoodickie. If so, then the end-to-end speed ratio drops to a little over 2:1 and the original belts fit just fine:

    Kenmore 158 - reversed jackshaft pulley
    Kenmore 158 – reversed jackshaft pulley

    The maximum handwheel speed ran a bit under 1000 RPM, so the reduced ratio lets the motor turn at 2000 RPM. That’s well within range of a NEMA 23 brushless DC motor, but it must also satisfy the other non-obvious requirements:

    • Acoustic = no squeals, not even a little bit
    • Physical = a scant 100 mm from mounting plate to edge of the frame casting for a 57 mm diameter cylinder

    Measuring the torque required to drive the sewing machine would go a long way toward finding the proper motor. The Leadshine BLM57050 would drop in, the BLM57090 might barely fit with some filing of a rib in the machine’s base, the and the BLM57130 isn’t in the running. The OEM motor dataplate says it’s 110 – 120 V @ 1 A = 110 – 120 W, but that surely doesn’t mean the same thing as the 130 W rating for the BLM57130.

    I should just buy a motor and driver brick to see what it’s like … [sigh]