The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Sewing

Fabric arts and machines

  • Quilting Pin Caps: More!

    These quilting pin caps are slightly longer than the previous version and, due to the M2’s smaller nozzle, have slightly thinner single-thread walls. Because Slic3r does a better (although not ideal) job of path planning than Skeinforge, it’s easier to create an array of the caps in the solid model than to manually add duplicates in Slic3r:

    Quilting Pin Cap - array
    Quilting Pin Cap – array

    They look like egg cases from Prometheus:

    Quilting pin cap array - on platform
    Quilting pin cap array – on platform

    Fill with silicone caulk on waxed paper and they look even more like that:

    Quilting pin caps - silicone fill
    Quilting pin caps – silicone fill

    Fast-forward a few days, rub off the excess caulk, trim off a few blobs, and they’re ready for presentation:

    Quilting pin caps - finished
    Quilting pin caps – finished

    In use, they look about like you’d expect:

    Quilting pin caps - in use
    Quilting pin caps – in use

    The pin caps I made from a 5 gallon bucket’s O-ring gasket didn’t work out well, as the plastic didn’t like being poked with pins and put up a stiff resistance. Silicone caulk has exactly the right consistency.

    When Mary ramps up a full-scale quilt, we’ll need a few hundred of the things. The commercial version has dropped to 40 cents each, which makes all this worthwhile.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Quilting pin caps
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU April 2012
    //	January 2013 - modify for Slic3r and M2
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    ID = 5.0;
    OD = ID + 2*ThreadWidth;
    Length = 8.0;
    Sides = 8;
    
    CapArray = [6,6];			// XY layout of caps
    CapsOC = OD + 2.0;			// OC spacing
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    module PinCap() {
    	rotate(180/Sides) {
    		difference() {
    		PolyCyl(OD,Length,8);
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    			PolyCyl(ID,(Length + 2*Protrusion),8);
    		}
    	}
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build them!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    translate([(-CapsOC*(CapArray[0] - 1)/2),(-CapsOC*(CapArray[1] - 1)/2),0])
    	for (i=[0:(CapArray[0] - 1)],j=[0:(CapArray[1] - 1)])
    		translate([i*CapsOC,j*CapsOC,0])
    			PinCap();
    

    They seem to work pretty well…

  • Modified Quilting Foot: Speed Wrench Knob

    The Nyloc nut atop that modified quilting foot requires more grip than fingers can provide:

    Modified Darning Foot - in action
    Modified Darning Foot – in action

    The “precision” wrench I adapted to that nut works for small adjustments, but for larger ones it’s easier to take the foot off and spin this knob:

    Quilting Foot Knob - knurling
    Quilting Foot Knob – knurling

    It has a hex opening in each end that fits the nut, with a through hole for the bolt. The top looks exactly like you’d expect:

    Quilting Foot Knob - top
    Quilting Foot Knob – top

    The bottom needs a bit of support:

    Quilting Foot Knob - bottom support
    Quilting Foot Knob – bottom support

    The solid model shows off the support in color:

    Quilting Foot Knob
    Quilting Foot Knob

    The OpenSCAD source code doesn’t have many surprises:

    // Quilting foot knob
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU January 2013
    
    use <knurledFinishLib_v2.scad>
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    KnobOD = 20.0;
    KnobLength = 25.0;
    KnobSides = 12;
    
    DiamondLength = KnobLength/3;
    DiamondWidth = DiamondLength/2;
    DiamondDepth = 1.0;
    
    NutOD = 7.0;				// across flats!
    NutLength = 6.0;
    ScrewOD = 4.0;
    
    DoSupport = true;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    module Knob() {
    	rotate(180/Sides) {
    		difference() {
    //			cylinder(r=KnobOD/2,h=KnobLength,$fn=KnobSides);
    			render(convexity=10)
    			knurl(k_cyl_hg=KnobLength,
    				  k_cyl_od=KnobOD,
    				  knurl_wd=DiamondWidth,
    				  knurl_hg=DiamondLength,
    				  knurl_dp=DiamondDepth,
    				  e_smooth=DiamondLength/2);
    			translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    				PolyCyl(ScrewOD,(KnobLength + 2*Protrusion),6);
    			translate([0,0,(KnobLength - NutLength)])
    				PolyCyl(NutOD,(NutLength + Protrusion),6);
    			translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    				PolyCyl(NutOD,(NutLength + Protrusion),6);
    		}
    	}
    }
    
    module Support() {
    	color("Yellow")
    		for (Seg=[0:5]) {
    			rotate(360*Seg/6)
    			translate([0,0,(NutLength - ThreadThick)/2])
    				cube([(NutOD - 1*ThreadWidth),
    						2*ThreadWidth,
    						(NutLength - ThreadThick)],
    						center=true);
    			}
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build them!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    Knob();
    
    if (DoSupport)
    	Support();
    

    Mary likes it… and thinks I’m being silly. She’s right, of course.

  • Free Motion Quilting Darning Foot Modification: The Home Shop Way

    Mary has been learning free motion quilting, which uses a special sewing-machine foot that holds the fabric in place. Leah Day describes modifying a standard darning foot, but I suggested deploying a bit more shop-fu to do it right. The notion of “adjusting” something with a twisted rubber band just made my skin crawl…

    The starting point is a Brewer BP1814 “FOOT Darning/Quilting low shank with clear base”, two of which appear next to an older version that she’s had for quite some time. The rightmost one has my modifications:

    Brewer BP1814 Quilting Foot - assortment
    Brewer BP1814 Quilting Foot – assortment

    The older (mostly metal) foot works much better for its intended purpose, but the newer white plastic version seems easier to modify for free-motion quilting. The older spring is much softer than the new ones, for whatever that’s worth. After the modification, the spring pressure becomes largely irrelevant, as it only acts when something pushes up on the base.

    The first modification improves visibility by cutting out part of the transparent plastic base. Leah suggests chopping it with a diagonal cutter (“jewelry clippers”), but I deployed a slitting saw in the Dremel tool at low speed to avoid melting. Mary wanted angled cuts, so that’s what she got:

    Modified Darning Foot - opened base
    Modified Darning Foot – opened base

    A bit of touchup with a fine file smoothed out the edges so the base slides easily over the fabric. There’s no way to remove the red guide lines; the un-modified foot on the left emerged from its bag with that smeared line.

    Then drive out the top metal pin with a small drift punch, hold the base and shaft, remove the C-clip, capture the spring, and extract the base and shaft. The 4.0 mm diameter metal shaft cries out to be threaded, so that’s what I did; this picture shows the reassembled shaft and spring:

    Modified Darning Foot - threaded shaft
    Modified Darning Foot – threaded shaft

    That’s significantly harder to accomplish than it looks, because there’s no practical way to remove the plastic base (it’s pinned in place, but one side of the cross-hole is blocked). I filed the end of the shaft to a taper that started the M4.0x0.7 die a bit more easily, clamped the shaft in the bench vise, applied nasty sulfur-based tapping fluid, crossed my fingers and eyes, held my nose, and managed to make it happen without cracking the plastic.

    I reamed out the Nyloc nut with a hand-twisted series of drills, through about #24 = 3.861 mm, to reduce the locking torque. It’s now just slightly more than finger-tight, which should suffice.

    In use, the foot fits under the sewing machine’s arm and puts the nut where fingers can’t reach. I filed a 6.0 mm “precision wrench” to fit the 6.8 mm nut flats and it’s All Good:

    Modified Darning Foot - assembled with wrench
    Modified Darning Foot – assembled with wrench

    A staged photo op atop some trial quilting:

    Modified Darning Foot - in action
    Modified Darning Foot – in action

    With a Nyloc nut instead of a rubber band, it will stay exactly where she wants it…

  • Making Finger Grip Dents: The Chord Equation

    The handle of that quilting circle template has a pair of finger grip dents, which, while they aren’t strictly necessary, seemed like a nice touch:

    Quilting circle template - solid model
    Quilting circle template – solid model

    They’re the result of subtracting a pair of spheres from the flat handle:

    Quilting circle template - handle dent spheres - solid model
    Quilting circle template – handle dent spheres – solid model

    Given:

    • m = the depth of the dent
    • c = its diameter on the surface of the handle

    There’s an easy way to compute R = the radius of the sphere that excavates the dent:

    Circle chord vs depth sketch
    Circle chord vs depth sketch

    Thusly:

    R = (m2 + c2/4) / (2 m)

    In OpenSCAD, that goes a little something like this:

    DentDepth = HandleThick/4;
    DentDia = 15.0;
    DentSphereRadius = (pow(DentDepth,2) + pow(DentDia,2)/4)/(2*DentDepth);
    

    Then generate the sphere (well, two spheres, one for each dent) and offset it to scoop out the dent:

    for (i=[-1,1]) {
    	translate([i*(DentSphereRadius + HandleThick/2 - DentDepth),0,StringHeight])
    		sphere(r=DentSphereRadius);
    

    HandleThick controls exactly what you’d expect. StringHeight sets the location of the hole punched through the handle for a string, which is also the center of the dents.

    The spheres have many facets, but only a few show up in the dent. I like the way the model looks, even if the facets don’t come through clearly in the plastic:

    Quilting circle template - handle dent closeup - solid model
    Quilting circle template – handle dent closeup – solid model

    It Just Works and the exact math produces a better result than by-guess-and-by-gosh positioning.

    The sphere radius will come out crazy large for very shallow dents. Here’s the helmet plate for my Bicycle Helmet Mirror Mount, which has an indentation (roughly) matching the curve on the side of my bike helmet:

    Helmet mirror mount - plate
    Helmet mirror mount – plate

    Here’s the sphere that makes the dent, at a somewhat different zoom scale:

    Helmet mirror mount - plate with sphere
    Helmet mirror mount – plate with sphere

    Don’t worry: trust the math, because It Just Works.

    You find equations like that in Thomas Glover’s invaluable Pocket Ref. If you don’t have a copy, fix that problem right now; I don’t get a cut from the purchase, but you’ll decide you owe me anyway. Small, unmarked bills. Lots and lots of small unmarked bills…

  • Quilting Circle Template: Why I Loves Me My 3D Printer(s)

    Mary just started an ambitious pieced quilt that requires 50-some-odd precisely sized 1-1/2 inch circles, with marks to locate a 1 inch circle in the middle. She started using a drafting template to mark the smaller circle on freezer paper (don’t ask, it’s complicated), but we couldn’t find the template I know I have with the larger circles.

    [Update: It’s a Bittersweet Briar traditional quilt. See all those little dots-for-berries?]

    So I says to my wife, I sez, “Hey, we have the technology. What would really simplify what you’re doing?” After a bit of doodling, we came up with a ring having the proper ID and OD, plus a flat handle of some sort.

    Half an hour later, I had a solid model:

    Quilting circle template - solid model
    Quilting circle template – solid model

    An hour after that I handed her a warm piece of plastic:

    Quilting circle template
    Quilting circle template

    The bottom ring is exactly 1-1/2 inch OD, 1 inch ID, and thin enough to draw around. The handle keeps her fingers out of the way and even has grips and a hole for a string.

    The print quality near the hole isn’t as good as I’d like, because the slicer turned that entire volume into a solid slab of plastic. I can fix that in the second version, but right now she has something to work with, evaluate, and figure out what would improve it.

    3D printing isn’t for everybody, but it’s a vital part of my shop!

    The OpenSCAD source code has parameters for everything, so we can crank out more templates without fuss:

    // Quilting - Circle Template
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - July 2013
    
    Layout = "Show";                    // Show Build Circle Handle
    
    //-------
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleFinagle = 0.2;
    HoleFudge = 1.00;
    
    function HoleAdjust(Diameter) = HoleFudge*Diameter + HoleFinagle;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;           // make holes end cleanly
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    function IntegerMultipleMin(Size,Unit) = Unit * floor(Size / Unit);
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    //-------
    // Dimensions
    
    CircleID = (1) * inch;
    
    SeamAllowance = (1/4) * inch;
    
    CircleOD = CircleID + 2*SeamAllowance;
    
    CircleThick = 6*ThreadThick;
    
    CircleSides = 12*4;
    
    HandleHeight = (2) * inch;
    HandleThick = IntegerMultiple(5.0,ThreadWidth);
    HandleSides = 12*4;
    
    StringDia = 4.0;
    StringSides = 8;
    StringHeight = 0.75*HandleHeight;
    
    DentDepth = HandleThick/4;
    DentDia = 15.0;
    DentSphereRadius = (pow(DentDepth,2) + pow(DentDia,2)/4)/(2*DentDepth);
    
    //-------
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {           // based on nophead's polyholes
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
      cylinder(r=HoleAdjust(FixDia)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------
    // Circle ring plate
    
    module CircleRing() {
    
    	rotate(180/CircleSides)
    		difference() {
    			cylinder(r=CircleOD/2,h=CircleThick,$fn=CircleSides);
    			translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    				cylinder(r=CircleID/2,h=(CircleThick + 2*Protrusion),$fn=CircleSides);
    		}
    }
    
    //-------
    // Handle
    
    module Handle() {
    
    	difference() {
    		rotate([0,90,0])
    			scale([HandleHeight/(CircleOD/2),0.9,1])
    				rotate(180/HandleSides)
    					cylinder(r=CircleOD/2,h=HandleThick,center=true,$fn=HandleSides);
    		translate([0,0,-HandleHeight])
    			cube([2*CircleOD,2*CircleOD,2*HandleHeight],center=true);
    		translate([-HandleThick,0,StringHeight])
    			rotate([0,90,0])
    				rotate(180/StringSides)
    					PolyCyl(StringDia,2*HandleThick,StringSides);
    #		for (i=[-1,1]) {
    			translate([i*(DentSphereRadius + HandleThick/2 - DentDepth),0,StringHeight])
    				sphere(r=DentSphereRadius);
    		}
    	}
    
    }
    
    module Template() {
    	CircleRing();
    	Handle();
    }
    
    //-------
    // Build it!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Circle")
    	CircleRing();
    
    if (Layout == "Handle")
    	Handle();
    
    if (Layout == "Show")
    	Template();
    
  • Quilting Pin Caps: Recycled O-Ring

    While doing something else, I rediscovered the fact that common 5 gallon plastic bucket lids have an O-ring gasket that seals against the top of the bucket. Some seals are hollow tubes, some are solid rods:

    5 gallon can lid gaskets
    5 gallon can lid gaskets

    The white O-ring has about the right consistency to serve as a quilting pin cap, along the lines of those 3D printed and silicone rubber filled cylinders. Although the rubber / plastic stuff isn’t quite as squishy as silicone snot, it holds the pin point firmly without much of a push.

    Chopping the O-ring into 10 mm sections produced another small box of prototypes:

    Lid gaskets as pin caps
    Lid gaskets as pin caps

    Garden planting season remains in full effect, shoving all quilting projects to the back burner and delaying the evaluation phase of the project…

  • Quilting Pin Caps

    Mary has been quilting up a storm lately and is growing dissatisfied with the special safety pins she’s been using to hold the layers together. Long straight pins are ideal, except that maneuvering a large quilt through her sewing machine resembles stuffing a porcupine into a keyhole. A commercial solution costs nearly half a buck per pin, which seems unreasonably spendy for something you need by the hundreds.

    We kicked around some finger- and quilt-friendly dimensions and I cobbled up a solid model:

    Quilting Pin Cap
    Quilting Pin Cap

    Which turned into an array of small octagons that won’t roll off the table:

    Pin cap array on build platform
    Pin cap array on build platform

    We figured 25 would be enough to decide if this is workable and whether the dimensions fit fingers, pins, and quilts.

    Filling them with silicone rubber required one squirt each:

    Filling pin caps with silicone
    Filling pin caps with silicone

    The trick with the silicone rubber is to cut the snout so it fits flat on the cylinder top. Put the cylinders on a piece of non-stick paper (I used the back of the carrier for some double-sided tape, but wax paper would be better), hold one with tweezers, squirt in enough rubber to fill the cylinder solidly from bottom to top, then slide the snout sideways to smooth the surface.

    Wait for a day, pop them off, and remove any drool:

    Silicone-filled pin caps
    Silicone-filled pin caps

    It’s garden planting time right now, so it’ll take a while before I tweak the design and run off the next batch.

    I don’t know how to compute an actual cost for each of those things. I regard the entire Thing-O-Matic as fully depreciated and pretty much a sunk cost, which means the expense boils down to the incremental cost of plastic and silicone. All the Quality Shop Time is, of course, free… and maybe even therapeutic.

    The (trivially simple) OpenSCAD source code:

    // Quilting pin caps
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU April 2012
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    ID = 5.0;
    OD = ID + 2*ThreadWidth;
    Length = 5.0;
    Sides = 8;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build them!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
      rotate(180/Sides) {
    	difference() {
    	  PolyCyl(OD,Length,8);
    	  translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    		PolyCyl(ID,(Length + 2*Protrusion),8);
    	}
      }