Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
This being the first time I’ve dismantled the hot end, here’s what lies inside:
Makergear M2 V4 hot end – tapered inner guide
The tighter you make the nozzle, the closer the fit inside the hot end, and the more heat gets transferred to the plastic. The bright ring just to the right of the plastic drool shows where it fits into the brass nozzle.
Peeling the remaining silicone off the nozzle, scraping off the black PETG around the tip, and scraping the gunk out left the inside a bit scuffed:
Makergear 0.35 mm nozzle – interior
The orifice still looks good and is still as close to 0.35 mm as I can measure eyeballometrically:
Makergear 0.35 mm nozzle – exterior
Despite what it looks like, that’s actually a very thin PETG layer.
Having a spare nozzle on the shelf, I decided to install it and leave the old nozzle as a backup. I’ve probably wrecked the snug seal required to keep the plastic out of the hot end.
A fresh coat of silicone, reset the position with the platform at Z=0, and it’s back in action:
Makergear M2 V4 hot end – Z zero set
The PETG remnants show I didn’t get the nozzle quite tight enough on the first attempt, but it’s all good now. The rubbery fiberglass insulator will conceal the mess.
Protip: Always remove the hot end from the printer and clamp it securely before unscrewing the nozzle, because the very thin heat break (over on the right in the second picture) will snap under less torque than you need to break the nozzle free.
You should unscrew the nozzle with the hot end warm enough to soften whatever plastic you’re using, lest it have glued everything inside into a solid lump.
That’s the 5 mm punch, where being (at least) half a millimeter off-center matters more than it would in the 32 mm punch.
Unscrewing the painfully awkward screw in the side releases the pilot:
Neiko hole punch – punch tip debris
The debris on the back end of the pilot is a harbinger of things to come:
Neiko hole punch – damaged spring debris
Looks like whoever was on spring-cutting duty nicked the next coil with the cutoff wheel. I have no idea where the steel curl came from, as it arrived loose inside the spring.
Although it doesn’t appear here, I replaced that huge screw with a nice stainless steel grub screw that doesn’t stick out at all.
Chucking the pilot in the lathe suggested it was horribly out of true, but cleaning the burrs off the outside diameter and chamfering the edges with a file improved it mightily. Filing doesn’t remove much material, so apparently the pilot is supposed to have half a millimeter of free play in the handle:
Neiko hole punch – undersized pilot
That’s looking down at the handle, without a punch screwed onto the threads surrounding the pilot.
Wrapping a rectangle of 2 mil brass shimstock into a cylinder around the pilot removed the slop:
Neiko hole punch – cleaned tip brass shim
But chucking the handle in the lathe showed the pilot was still grossly off-center, so I set it up for boring:
Neiko hole punch – boring setup
The entry of the hole was comfortingly on-axis, but the far end was way off-center. I would expect it to be drilled on a lathe and, with a hole that size, it ought to go right down the middle. I’ve drilled a few drunken holes, though.
Truing the hole enlarged it enough to require a 0.5 mm shimstock wrap, but the pilot is now pretty much dead on:
Neiko hole punch – accurized results
Those are 5, 6, 8, and 10 mm punches whacked into a plywood scrap; looks well under a quarter millimeter to me and plenty good enough for what I need.
This past summer we replaced a worn-out vegetable peeler with what was allegedly a high-quality Linden Jonas peeler. It worked quite well, which it should have, given that it cost nigh onto seven bucks, until I recently backed over it with my wheelchair (about which, more later) and smashed it flat.
World+dog having recently discovered the virtues of home-cooked meals, the replacement cost nigh onto ten bucks and, through the wonders of Amazon, came from a different seller, albeit with a letter-for-letter identical description:
Linden Jonas peeler orders
With a spare in the kitchen, I applied some shop-fu to unbend the first peeler:
Jonas peeler – reshaping tools
Tapping the handle against the bandsawed dowel sufficed to remove the sharpest bends. The final trick involved clamping one edge of the handle to the section cut from a thread spool, resting the Vise-Grip on the bench vise, and whacking the other edge with the rubber mallet to restore the smooth curve around the main axis, repeating the process along the other side, then hand-forming the gentle curve closer to the blade. It ain’t perfect and never will be, but it’s once again comfortable in the hand.
During that process I had plenty of time to admire the identification stamped into the handle:
Jonas peeler – weak emboss
Which, frankly, looks rather gritty on an allegedly high-quality product from a Swedish factory.
Compare it with the new peeler:
Jonas peeler – good emboss
Now, that’s more like it.
The genuine Linden website doesn’t provide much detail, so I can’t be absolutely sure which peeler is a counterfeit, but it sure looks like at least one fails the sniff test. Linden’s site redirects to Amazon through a Google search link (!) that, given the way Amazon works, could result in anything appearing as a valid result:
As one should expect by now, Amazon’s commingled inventory produces a fair percentage of reviews complaining about craptastic peelers stamped “Made in China” from any of the sellers unearthed by that search.
After about a year of streaming music, the music died over the course of a month, producing progressively bizarre symptoms on all the local Icecast stations. Killing the streaming server and yanking all the USB memory sticks produced this tableau:
USB Memory – streamer failures
The USB 2.0 32 GB SanDisk Cruzer Fit (tiny, black, upper left) holds images from various network cameras and is not involved with music. It’s nigh onto seven years old and, apparently, still going strong.
The USB 2.0 Centron (gray-and-retroreflective, upper right) was forgotten from the last time I set up a drive for our Forester’s player. There’s another one just like it in the car; they’re impossibly old, as you’d expect from their minuscule size.
The USB 3.0 64 GB Samsung Fit (small, white, lower left) is totally dead, to the extent it doesn’t even announce its presence when plugged into a USB socket. It’s 2.5 years into a five year warranty, but their new USB 3.1 version is twelve bucks; Samsung wins. It formerly contained an extensive selection of public-domain music.
The 64 GB Sandisk Cruzer (huge, black, lower right) suffered some serious damage:
sudo mount -o ro /dev/sdg1 /mnt/part
ll /mnt/part
ls: cannot access '/mnt/part/PILZ': Input/output error
total 384K
drwxr-xr-x 6 ed users 4.0K Nov 28 2019 ./
drwxr-xr-x 17 root root 4.0K Jun 7 2019 ../
-rw-r--r-- 1 ed ed 215K Mar 9 2019 CDClassical.m3u
drwxrwxr-x 56 ed ed 4.0K Mar 9 2019 Classical/
drwx------ 2 root root 16K Mar 9 2019 lost+found/
d????????? ? ? ? ? ? PILZ/
drwxrwxr-x 116 ed ed 12K Mar 9 2019 Pop/
-rw-r--r-- 1 ed ed 117K Nov 28 2019 Pop.m3u
It still contains a fair amount of music ripped from the CDs we’ve collected over the decades, but it’s obviously unusable. Just for fun, I tried reformatting and copying some files to it, but it eventually hard-crashed with I/O errors:
[37787.872410] usb 2-1: new high-speed USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd
[37788.013027] usb 2-1: New USB device found, idVendor=0781, idProduct=5530, bcdDevice= 1.00
[37788.013030] usb 2-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
[37788.013032] usb 2-1: Product: Cruzer
[37788.013034] usb 2-1: Manufacturer: SanDisk
[37788.013036] usb 2-1: SerialNumber: 4C530001151215101233
[37788.013604] usb-storage 2-1:1.0: USB Mass Storage device detected
[37788.014778] scsi host9: usb-storage 2-1:1.0
[37789.033409] scsi 9:0:0:0: Direct-Access SanDisk Cruzer 1.00 PQ: 0 ANSI: 6
[37789.034569] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdf] 120225792 512-byte logical blocks: (61.6 GB/57.3 GiB)
[37789.035820] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdf] Write Protect is off
[37789.035825] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdf] Mode Sense: 43 00 00 00
[37789.036137] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdf] Write cache: disabled, read cache: enabled, doesn't support DPO or FUA
[37789.086533] sdf: sdf1
[37789.089418] sd 9:0:0:0: [sdf] Attached SCSI removable disk
[38035.071013] EXT4-fs (sdf1): mounting ext3 file system using the ext4 subsystem
[38035.183172] EXT4-fs (sdf1): mounted filesystem with ordered data mode. Opts: (null)
[38485.302549] usb 2-1: reset high-speed USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd
[38490.622285] usb 2-1: device descriptor read/64, error -110
[38506.195617] usb 2-1: device descriptor read/64, error -110
[38506.425616] usb 2-1: reset high-speed USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd
[38511.742339] usb 2-1: device descriptor read/64, error -110
<<< snippage >>>
[38548.845743] usb 2-1: USB disconnect, device number 2
[38548.858925] blk_update_request: I/O error, dev sdf, sector 99556320 op 0x1:(WRITE) flags 0x4800 phys_seg 30 prio class 0
[38548.858933] EXT4-fs warning (device sdf1): ext4_end_bio:309: I/O error 10 writing to inode 1531939 (offset 0 size 0 starting block 12444541
)
[38548.858937] Buffer I/O error on device sdf1, logical block 12444284
[38548.858944] EXT4-fs warning (device sdf1): ext4_end_bio:309: I/O error 10 writing to inode 1531939 (offset 0 size 0 starting block 12444542
)
<<< snippage >>>
[38548.858984] Buffer I/O error on device sdf1, logical block 12444293
[38548.859034] blk_update_request: I/O error, dev sdf, sector 99017520 op 0x1:(WRITE) flags 0x4000 phys_seg 3 prio class 0
[38548.859158] blk_update_request: I/O error, dev sdf, sector 99556560 op 0x1:(WRITE) flags 0x4800 phys_seg 30 prio class 0
[38548.859224] blk_update_request: I/O error, dev sdf, sector 99017760 op 0x1:(WRITE) flags 0x4000 phys_seg 2 prio class 0
[38548.859237] blk_update_request: I/O error, dev sdf, sector 99018000 op 0x1:(WRITE) flags 0x4000 phys_seg 2 prio class 0
>>
[38549.230765] JBD2: Detected IO errors while flushing file data on sdf1-8
[38549.230920] Aborting journal on device sdf1-8.
[38549.231008] Buffer I/O error on dev sdf1, logical block 1545, lost sync page write
[38549.231011] JBD2: Error -5 detected when updating journal superblock for sdf1-8.
[38549.231325] Buffer I/O error on dev sdf1, logical block 0, lost sync page write
[38549.231332] EXT4-fs (sdf1): I/O error while writing superblock
[38549.231333] EXT4-fs error (device sdf1): ext4_journal_check_start:61: Detected aborted journal
[38549.231334] EXT4-fs (sdf1): Remounting filesystem read-only
<<< and so forth and so on >>>
The Icecast streaming server reads data continuously from the USB sticks and, given that I set up half a dozen “stations”, there’s plenty of reading going on. The drives are formatted as ext3 and mounted with the noatime option, so there shouldn’t be any writing going on, but it seems a year of constant reading can kill a USB drive.
Fortunately, the original data lives elsewhere, with scripts to copy the appropriate files to the right places, so rebuilding the drives on a pair of new USB sticks wasn’t a big deal.
Transferring the printers to a new “server” provided an opportunity to dump another king’s ransom of waste ink down the drain, whereupon the tank cracked under finger pressure:
Epson R380 – fractured CISS waste tank
The black smudge on the far side is an ink stain on adhesive left over from the hook-n-loop strip formerly holding it to the printer.
It looks to be an ordinary polypropylene tube, nothing fancy, and, after a decade, it really doesn’t owe me anything.
Scrounge a suitable bottle from one of the Big Boxes o’ Containers, run a bead of JB Weld Plasticbonder around the shoulder matching the discarded lid, jam on an original waste ink tank cap, and let the urethane goo cure while rotating slowly in the lathe to avoid unsightly dribbles:
Epson R380 – DIY waste tank – epoxy curing
The goo surely won’t bond to the polyethylene bottle, but it’s likely better than anything else in my inventory. We shall see.
Drill a hole for the hose, ignore the chips left inside the tank due to a sequence error, stick the original hook-n-loop tape in place, replace the drip-catcher rags, and install:
Epson R380 – DIY waste tank – installed
The red silicone tape encourages the cap to remain in place against the urethane adhesive. One fewer endcap = one less seal.
The cap need not be removable, as you just squeeze the tube slightly to squirt the aforementioned king’s ransom down the drain.
It ought to last until I finally scrap out the printer.
For reasons that surely made sense at the time, the Huion H610Pro (V2) tablet can recognize when it’s connected to an Android device’s USB port and enter a special mode where the stylus only responds in a phone-shaped portrait rectangle over on the left side:
Huion H610Pro (V2) Tablet – Android layout
There’s a Vulcan Nerve Pinch button push to force the tablet into Android mode if it doesn’t automagically get there on its own, but AFAICT there’s no way to force it out of Android mode.
It’s a USB 2.0 device, but I had plugged it into a USB 3.0 port on my desktop box, whereupon it would enter Android mode on pretty nearly every boot. The only way to coerce it back into normal mode was to unplug it, replug it, then manually run the xsetwacom incantation to restrict the coordinates to the portrait monitor.
I just discovered it works perfectly when plugged into one of the few USB 2.0 ports on the box.
Apparently, USB 3.0 ports keep the thing powered all the time, whereupon it doesn’t see the proper sequence of events (or, perhaps, sees the Android sequence) during the next boot. USB 2.0 ports don’t do that and it works fine all the time.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 