The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Kenmore Model 158 Power Switch: Laying-on-of-hands Repair

    The power switch on Mary’s “embroidery” Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine became exceedingly stiff, to the extent she said it was painful to push. Buying a shiny new switch seemed iffy, because a cursory search through the usual reputable electronic suppliers suggested there’s no way to specify how stiff the button might be, nor how that might feel in actual practice.

    The switch harvested from the pulse-drive machine felt somewhat less stiff, so I decided to (try to) loosen it up and, if that worked, swap it for the stubborn one.

    A pair of rivets hold the two halves of the switch together, obviously intended as a permanent solution. A carbide burr in the Dremel tool dealt with them easily enough:

    Model 158 Power Switch - grinding rivets
    Model 158 Power Switch – grinding rivets

    Inside, the actuator drives a rotating brass contact:

    Model 158 Power Switch - rotor
    Model 158 Power Switch – rotor

    Two stationary brass contacts are spot-welded to the wires:

    Model 158 Power Switch - contacts
    Model 158 Power Switch – contacts

    The actuator under the button consists of a helix-twisted steel rod, a rather stiff spring, and a four-vaned phenolic blade that engages those two little flaps on the rotor. The rivet holes exactly fit plain old 1-72 screws:

    Model 158 Power Switch - actuator stem
    Model 158 Power Switch – actuator stem

    Not seeing anything obviously fix-able inside, I wiped the excess oil off and reassembled it in reverse order:

    Model 158 Power Switch - reassembled
    Model 158 Power Switch – reassembled

    Astonishingly, that bit of attention loosened it up: the button now presses easily!

    I swapped it with the too-stiff switch and declared victory…

  • Tuning Whistle Case Cap

    Mostly as an excuse to use the mini-lathe’s MT3 headstock collets, I made a cover for a tuning whistle (it’s an A, if that matters) case that’s been rolling around on the bench for far too long:

    Tuner cap - trial fit
    Tuner cap – trial fit

    Yeah, it needs a bit more polishing and maybe a fancy 3D printed wrapper…

    By some small miracle, one of the cutoffs in the brass tubing heap was exactly the right diameter and length, needing only a cap.

    A cap looks a lot like a random piece of brass shimstock held in place with silver solder:

    Tuner cap - solder setup
    Tuner cap – solder setup

    Fire the propane torch:

    Tuner cap - soldered
    Tuner cap – soldered

    I trimmed the shimstock around the tube with scissors, grabbed it in a collet, and laid into it:

    Tuner cap - lathe trimming
    Tuner cap – lathe trimming

    That’s just before the last few passes bringing the shimstock and solder fillet down to the tube OD, which sat nicely concentric in the collet. The carbide insert worked surprisingly well and produced shavings resembling stringy dust.

    The collet drawbar, a.k.a. a hardened 3/8-15 bolt and washer, requires a distressing amount of effort to clamp the collet around the workpiece. I think it wants a Delrin / UHMW washer or some such to reduce the friction; a full-on thrust bearing seems uncalled for.

  • SRAM Shift Indicator: Repair FAIL

    The little red shift indicator tab in the SRAM X.9 rear shifter on Mary’s bike snapped:

    SRAM Shift Indicator - broken tab
    SRAM Shift Indicator – broken tab

    In a triumph of hope over experience, I tried gluing the pieces with a bit of fixturing and a dab of IPS #3 solvent:

    SRAM Shift Indicator - gluing
    SRAM Shift Indicator – gluing

    Didn’t work any better than the last time, of course. Every gear shift snap must apply 1000 G to that poor little tab…

    What’s new & different: one can now obtain Official Repair Kits consisting of the indicator tab, the plastic cover, and the two screws for $6.47 delivered from eBay.

    Done!

  • Mini-Lathe: Control Box Cover Screws

    It’s easier to remove the leadscrew while dismantling the carriage and apron, which requires removing the cover from the control box containing all the switches & knobs. Come to find out the “cover” actually holds all the gadgetry onto the headstock:

    LMS mini-lathe - control box interior
    LMS mini-lathe – control box interior

    I want to replace the Power indicator with something visible in normal shop light; judging from the connectors and overall brightness, it’s a neon bulb inside a green housing.

    Anyhow, the four screws holding cover to the headstock weren’t identical:

    LMS Mini-lathe - cover screws
    LMS Mini-lathe – cover screws

    I thought the oddball screw was deliberate, perhaps fastening that corner to a plastic frame of some sort, but it turned out to be a quick fix for a boogered tap job:

    LMS Mini-lathe - mistapped cover hole
    LMS Mini-lathe – mistapped cover hole

    A bag of 4 mm knurled brass inserts will arrive in a while, after which I’ll drill out all four holes and epoxy inserts in their place. Might have to use stainless hardware, just for nice…

  • American Standard Faucet O-Ring Replacement

    The never-sufficiently-to-be-damned O-rings in the kitchen’s American Standard faucet wore out again; the faucet spout went from a tolerable piddle to a major flow over the course of a few weeks.

    The inner circumference of the bottom O-ring had most of the wear:

    American Standard faucet - worn lower o-ring
    American Standard faucet – worn lower o-ring

    In cross-section, it’s more of a D-ring:

    American Standard faucet - worn lower o-ring - section
    American Standard faucet – worn lower o-ring – section

    Once again, I soaked the spout & pillar in vinegar to remove the mineral deposits (despite the soft water), gave them a light sanding with 800 grit paper to regularize the surfaces, cleaned everything up, lubed it with petroleum jelly, and it’s all good.

    Disassembly and replacement went smoothly, mostly because I could look up what I did before and avoid all the usual mistakes.

     

  • Dishwasher Rack Protectors in PETG

    Our standard dishwasher loadout changed a while back, so I ran off more protectors to fill the bottom rack. The crystalline look of natural PETG is probably wasted in there, even though it puts the old, rather yellowed, PLA protectors to shame:

    Dishwasher Rack Protectors - old PLA new PETG
    Dishwasher Rack Protectors – old PLA new PETG

    Dollops of silicone sealant hold them in place: the bigger the blob, the better the job.

    We don’t activate the drying heater, so the plastic doesn’t get exposed to absurdly high temperatures. As nearly as I can tell, those PLA protectors remain in fine physical condition, even though they’re turning an odd color.

    The support structures peeled out easily with a fingernail pull:

    Dishwasher Rack Protectors - 0.20 mm PETG bridging - detail
    Dishwasher Rack Protectors – 0.20 mm PETG bridging – detail

    PETG doesn’t bridge well, as shown by the gaps between the support ridges. Those 0.20 mm layers seemed skimpy for lightly supported PETG, so I ran another set at 0.25 mm:

    Dishwasher Rack Protectors - 0.25 mm PETG bridging - detail
    Dishwasher Rack Protectors – 0.25 mm PETG bridging – detail

    Not quite enough improvement for a Happy Dance, although fine for the application.

    We look forward to seeing what grows in those little crevices…

  • Micro-Mark Mini Miter / Cut-off Saw

    I bought a 2 inch Micro-Mark Mini Miter / Cut-off Saw to cut screws & brass tubing, in the hopes that it would be somewhat better than the essentially equivalent Harbor Freight offering. I think that’s true, but it’s a near thing.

    Apparently, the saws all come from the same factory with the same bass-ackwards vise:

    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw - vise side view
    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw – vise side view

    The V-groove should be on the fixed jaw, where it would more-or-less precisely align rods / cylinders with the blade. The moveable jaw isn’t dovetailed to the base of the vise, so it ends up wherever it stops and, somehow, they managed to machine the end of the screw shaft off-center from the shaft, so the moveable jaw moves in a small circle as you tighten it.

    A small punch mark locks the jaw to the screw; you can pull the disk on the shaft past the indentation by turning the knob with sufficient enthusiasm:

    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw - clamp jaw detail
    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw – clamp jaw detail

    The hole in the vise, just under the disk, lets somebody whack the jaw with a punch.

    Some machining or an entirely new vise setup lies in the future of this thing.

    I mounted it on a scrap of countertop by transfer-punching the base holes, only to discover that the punch didn’t leave a mark for one hole, even though a dent was clearly visible at the bottom of the hole with the saw on the countertop.

    A bit of headscratching later:

    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw - unfinished casting hole
    Micro-Mark Cutoff Saw – unfinished casting hole

    Apparently the core for that hole in the injection mold didn’t seat quite right. The layer was thin enough to drill out easily.

    The blade is identical with the Harbor Freight blades I’m using on the Sherline, right down to the printed legend declaring it fits saws with non-Micro-Mark part numbers:

    2 inch blades - Micro-Mark vs Harbor Freight
    2 inch blades – Micro-Mark vs Harbor Freight

    Granted, the Micro-Mark blade on the left has nicer printing, but MM blades run $15 each and HF offers a three-pack for ten bucks. Note the carefully positioned thumb in the Micro-Mark picture.

    Beware of cheap imitations!” says Micro-Mark.