The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Mini-lathe

Tweaking an LMS 5200 Mini-Lathe

  • Razor Knife Blade Collet Repair

    Razor Knife Blade Collet Repair

    In the process of fixing something else, I discovered my favorite desktop razor knife had a loose blade. There being nothing like a new problem to take one’s mind off all one’s previous problems, I obviously had to fix it before proceeding:

    Razor Knife - broken collet thread
    Razor Knife – broken collet thread

    Come to find out the plastic screw tightening the blade collet had snapped. The remaining stub stuck out from the red ribbed nut just far enough to prevent sliding the nut out of the black plastic body, but jamming a small screwdriver through the body got enough traction to unscrew the stub. It’s threaded 8-32, despite being old enough to be Made in Taiwan.

    The red plastic feels like HDPE or a similar un-glue-able material, so it was going to need a mechanical splice. A tiny 2-56 setscrew falls in the class of things my buddy Eks describes as “If your design needs those, you’re doing it wrong”, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

    For the record, a 2-56 setscrew requires a 35 mil hex wrench. My tiny ziplock bag with tiny hex wrenches has one:

    Razor Knife - 2-56 setscrew
    Razor Knife – 2-56 setscrew

    The little wrench in the background measures 28 mils for 0-80 setscrews, of which I have none and don’t expect to get any.

    Anyhow, facing, drilling, and tapping the stub proceeded handily:

    Razor Knife - setscrew in thread stub
    Razor Knife – setscrew in thread stub

    You’d think I hadn’t faced off the end, but you’d be wrong. As far as I can tell, the end of the screw would be happy to break for as long as I’d be willing to try cutting it. Perhaps this indicates why it broke and suggests this repair will be temporary, at best.

    Doing the same to the collet required a clamp to fit its slightly oblong body:

    Razor Knife - laser-cut collet clamps
    Razor Knife – laser-cut collet clamps

    Those of long memory may recall the hooks.

    Which then worked exactly as you’d expect:

    Razor Knife - collet in lathe chuck
    Razor Knife – collet in lathe chuck

    That’s aggressive stick-out for a little plastic rod, but sissy cuts saved the day; it faced / drilled / tapped easily enough:

    Razor Knife - collet repair parts
    Razor Knife – collet repair parts

    Despite the non-glue-able plastic, I tucked some JB PlasticBonder into the recesses, screwed everything together, and coerced the 8-32 threads into alignment inside the plastic nut:

    Razor Knife - collet thread alignment
    Razor Knife – collet thread alignment

    Reassemble in reverse order after the adhesive set up:

    Razor Knife - repaired
    Razor Knife – repaired

    Done!

    Now, what was I doing?

  • Worm Bin Valve Transplant

    Worm Bin Valve Transplant

    For reasons not relevant here, I have a spare water heater drain valve with a thread matching the drain valve for the Can-o-Worms bin:

    Can-o-worms drain valve vs. water heater valve
    Can-o-worms drain valve vs. water heater valve

    It lacks the flange required to seal the O-ring against the outside of the bin, but I can fix that:

    Can-o-worms - sleeved valve
    Can-o-worms – sleeved valve

    It’s a chunk of PVC pipe faced to the proper length, bored to fit the valve body, then gooped in place with acrylic caulk.

    Snug the nut inside the bin and it’s all good:

    Can-o-worms - new valve installed
    Can-o-worms – new valve installed

    The original valve depended on having a smooth plug turning inside the outer shell, but years of grit scarred the interface enough to produce a slow drip. It also had the annoying mis-feature of aiming the opening inward, between the bin legs, where a jug didn’t quite fit.

    The water heater valve depends on compressing a smaller O-ring against a seat inside the body, which may tend to clog with crud. We added a mesh filter to hold back the worst of the gunk, so this is in the nature of an experiment using free hardware.

  • Mini-Lathe Carriage Stop Rebuild

    Mini-Lathe Carriage Stop Rebuild

    I finally managed to whack the mini-lathe’s carriage stop handle with the chuck, prompting a quick repair:

    Carriage Stop - handle epoxy clamping
    Carriage Stop – handle epoxy clamping

    I probably should have epoxied a rod into the recess under the handle, seated in a drilled hole into the hub, but let’s see how long this quick-n-dirty version lasts.

    While I had the hood up epoxy was curing, I lasered a block of edge-lit acrylic to replace the credit card shims:

    Carriage Stop - spacer
    Carriage Stop – spacer

    Which turned out to be one itsy too thick. Rather than sand / machine it down, the step over on the left grew a little brass shim:

    Carriage Stop - spacer and shim
    Carriage Stop – spacer and shim

    Both pieces depend on snippets of adhesive sheet to hold them in place, which seems reasonable because they’re always in compression. That also eliminates the hole and pin I originally thought would be necessary; living in the future is just grand.

    Thing looks like it grew there:

    Carriage Stop - installed
    Carriage Stop – installed

    The orange stripe on the handle is laser-safe PSA vinyl.

    That was easy …

  • Mini-lathe Chuck Stops

    Mini-lathe Chuck Stops

    Having occasionally been in need of a lathe chuck stop, I finally cleared that project off the heap:

    Lathe Chuck Stops - demo setup
    Lathe Chuck Stops – demo setup

    These are definitely not up to commercial standards, but also don’t cost fifty bucks each. A trio of 4×2 mm neodymium disk magnets stick the stop to the chuck (and to each other) with enough force to hold it there, but not enough to make removing it a hassle.

    I imported the Z axis orthogonal view of the chuck jaws from the ball fixture for the running lights:

    Lathe Chuck Jaws - solid model axial
    Lathe Chuck Jaws – solid model axial

    Trace the right-side jaw, clean it up, put the tip a known distance from the origin, make a circular array, and draw a comfort circle the size of the chuck OD.

    The stop geometry comes from a hull wrapped around a circle a few millimeters larger than the 4 mm magnet (out 20 mm from the center) and a circle at the center sized so the hull clears the jaws:

    Lathe Chuck Stops - LB layout
    Lathe Chuck Stops – LB layout

    Then a small circle at the center allows me to drop the stop atop a known coordinate and rotate it around the circle, because the XY coordinate center is not at the geometric center.

    I cut out a few chipboard samples to verify the sizes, a few more from scrap acrylic to set up the pocketing operation, then half a dozen of each in cheerful kindergarten colors:

    Lathe Chuck Stops - on-lathe storage
    Lathe Chuck Stops – on-lathe storage

    The 5 mm stop is obviously too fragile for commercial success, but I figured it’ll survive long enough around here. Worst case, I can make another handful as needed.

    Although I have laser-engraved pockets in plywood, a few experiments in acrylic confirmed the surface finish is terrible and the depth control is iffy, at best. Given that I need a 2.2 mm deep pocket in 3 mm acrylic, a CNC mill seems the right way to poke the pockets:

    Lathe Chuck Stops - pocketing setup
    Lathe Chuck Stops – pocketing setup

    More on that tomorrow.

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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  • MaxLite Candelabra CFL: FAIL

    MaxLite Candelabra CFL: FAIL

    The bathroom ceiling fixture has a nightlight position that we use occasionally, but eventually the little 7 W Christmas Tree bulb failed and I installed this hulk from a box of CFL bulbs a friend scrapped out after switching to LED bulbs:

    MaxLite CFL - overview
    MaxLite CFL – overview

    I never tested whether it actually drew 3 W, but, hey I could feel good. Right? Right?

    Anyhow, this one failed after a few years, too. The “bulb” envelope looked like it might make an attractive blinkie or glowie, so I decided to harvest it.

    The candelabra screw base felt loose and popped off with a push:

    MaxLite CFL - overflow cap
    MaxLite CFL – overflow cap

    Perhaps they chose the envelope before finalizing the circuitry?

    This is why you need a lathe in your shop:

    MaxLite CFL - lathe cutting
    MaxLite CFL – lathe cutting

    It wasn’t particularly well centered, so that was done dead slow and finished with a few hand turns of the chuck. Obviously, I need a crank for the spindle.

    The rest of the circuitry is pretty well packed under that tall cap:

    MaxLite CFL - circuitry
    MaxLite CFL – circuitry

    Pulling the PCB out revealed the tube wiring:

    MaxLite CFL - tube wires
    MaxLite CFL – tube wires

    Cut the wires and chuck it up again:

    MaxLite CFL - envelope turning setup
    MaxLite CFL – envelope turning setup

    Turn dead slow again until it breaks through:

    MaxLite CFL - envelope breakthrough
    MaxLite CFL – envelope breakthrough

    Then finish by hand:

    MaxLite CFL - tube and envelope
    MaxLite CFL – tube and envelope

    It’s too cute to throw out, but … sheesh you can see why recycling this stuff is so difficult.

    For whatever it’s worth, I replaced it with a 3 W LED candelabra bulb that is way too bright.

  • Tour Easy Running Light: Heatsink Machining

    Tour Easy Running Light: Heatsink Machining

    Having acquired some thick-wall (1 inch OD, ¾ inch ID) aluminum tube, making the LED heatsink and lens holder for a running light generates a lot less scrap. A new doodle gives the dimensions in a rather Picasso-ish layout:

    Running Light - dimension doodles
    Running Light – dimension doodles

    The back end of the tube gets turned down to 23 mm OD and cleaned up to 19 mm ID, then scored to give the epoxy something to grip:

    Front Running Light - Heatsink shell scoring
    Front Running Light – Heatsink shell scoring

    The front end gets bored to 22.5 mm for the lens holder and has its OD cleaned up to 25 mm:

    Front Running Light - finished shell
    Front Running Light – finished shell

    Clean up the end of a ¾ inch rod to 19 mm OD, knurl it a little to increase the OD ever so slightly and improve its griptivity, slice off a bit more than 10 mm, butter it up with JB Weld epoxy, and shove it into the shell with its front end aligned and its back end sticking out:

    Front Running Light - epoxied plug in shell - rear
    Front Running Light – epoxied plug in shell – rear

    Face off the back end and the front end looks fine as assembled:

    Front Running Light - epoxied plug in shell - front
    Front Running Light – epoxied plug in shell – front

    Grab it in the Sherline mill’s three jaw chuck to:

    • Drill & tap the M3 central hole for the stud holding the circuit plate to the back end
    • Drill 1.6 mm blind holes for the circuit plate pins
    • Drill 2 mm through holes for the LED wires, 60° apart

    Which looks like this from the front:

    Front Running Light - drilled heatsink - front
    Front Running Light – drilled heatsink – front

    And like this with the circuit plate screwed & glued to the rear:

    Front Running Light - circuit plate mounted
    Front Running Light – circuit plate mounted

    Clean up the OD of some ¾ inch PVC pipe to 25 mm, bore it out to 23 mm.

    While the Sherline is set up, drill a pair of 2 mm holes in the lens holder for the wires, aligned so they’ll match the heatsink holes.

    Because we live in the future, laser-cut the rear cap from some edge-lit acrylic with a black inner disk:

    Front Running Light - PVC tube - end cap
    Front Running Light – PVC tube – end cap

    Cutting that cap with the notch included is now trivially easy, compared to the previous machining.

    Now for some circuitry …

  • Mini-lathe Chuck Jaw Holder

    Mini-lathe Chuck Jaw Holder

    While swapping chuck jaws I realized I didn’t have to pile them on a shop rag atop the lathe headstock, no matter how neatly cut those rags might be:

    Lathe chuck jaw holder - installed
    Lathe chuck jaw holder – installed

    It’s three layers of MDF cut to hold all six jaws from the 4 inch 3 jaw chuck, stuck together with wood glue.

    You really need only four sockets: one empty for the jaw you just removed, then work your way around the chuck. But, hey, MDF is cheap and I usually remove all three at once anyway.

    When it starts walking away, it’ll sprout silicone feet.

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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    That was easy!