The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Mini-lathe

Tweaking an LMS 5200 Mini-Lathe

Champion Hose Nozzle: Refreshed Seal Attempt

The battered Champion hose nozzle came into play last fall, leaked profusely when turned off, went to a Safe Place for the winter, and recently emerged:

Champion hose nozzle – disassembled

The conical surface (to the right of the tip) must make perfect contact with the edge of a perfect cylindrical hole in the outer shell to shut off the water, which was obviously no longer happening.

There is no reason why that hole should still be concentric with the outside of the shell, but centering the latter in the four-jaw chuck put the hole within about 0.2 mm of where it should be:

Champion hose nozzle – lathe centering

I defined that to be Close Enough™ and made the hole smooth & concentric with a teeny boring bar and sissy cuts. A drill would likely have worked well enough, too.

Gently filing the nastiness off the cone showed it wouldn’t suffice, so center it while noting the irregular diameter all around:

Champion hose nozzle – lathe centering cone

A skim cut revealed the need for more attention:

Champion hose nozzle – scarred cone

Another tenth of a millimeter improved its disposition:

Champion hose nozzle – improved cone

Gentle touchup with a fine file reserved for special occasions may have been a further improvement:

Champion hose nozzle – finish filed

Add a dollop of silicone grease to encourage the shell to turn much more easily on the O-ring, reassemble in reverse order, and top it off with a new hose washer.

A quick test on a reasonably warm day showed the cone met the cylinder poorly enough to consign this nozzle to the brass recycling box.

It was fun trying, though …

2025-04-14
HQ Sixteen: Stylus Laser Ball Drilling
With the ball mount in hand:

HQ Sixteen – Stylus Laser – ball clamp test fit

The next step is to drill a 12 mm hole for the red-dot laser module right through the middle of the 1 inch = 25.4 mm polypropylene ball.

I decided to use a more-or-less standard laser module, rather than the Genuine Handi-Quilter laser, because:
- Cheap & readily available
- Identical spares on hand
- Two decades of red laser diode progress
Start by conjuring a lathe chuck fixture for a 1 inch ball from my OpenSCAD model and printing it in PETG-CF:

HQ Sixteen – Stylus Laser – center drilling

Run a few drills through the ball up to 15/32 inch = 0.469 inch = 11.9 mm:

HQ Sixteen – Stylus Laser – final drilling

Which looks terrifying and was no big deal.

The laser module didn’t quite fit until I peeled off the label, as setting up a boring bar seemed like too much hassle for too little gain. The ball is slick polypropylene and the laser module is chromed plastic, which means there’s not much friction involved and a stiff fit is a Good Thing™.

I did not realize the hazy white patches barely visible inside the ball were voids / bubbles:

HQ Sixteen – Stylus Laser – drilled ball

Next time I’ll (try to) orient the patches toward the tailstock in hopes of simply drilling through them to leave solid plastic around the rim.

Ramming the laser in place makes it look like it grew there;

HQ Sixteen – Stylus Laser – laser test fit

The alert reader will note the lens projects a line, due to my not ordering any dot modules back when I got a bunch of these things. After all, who wants a plain dot when you can light up a line or even a crosshair?

Next, wire it up and stick it on the machine …
2025-02-28
Razor Knife Blade Collet Repair

In the process of fixing something else, I discovered my favorite desktop razor knife had a loose blade. There being nothing like a new problem to take one’s mind off all one’s previous problems, I obviously had to fix it before proceeding:

Razor Knife – broken collet thread

Come to find out the plastic screw tightening the blade collet had snapped. The remaining stub stuck out from the red ribbed nut just far enough to prevent sliding the nut out of the black plastic body, but jamming a small screwdriver through the body got enough traction to unscrew the stub. It’s threaded 8-32, despite being old enough to be Made in Taiwan.

The red plastic feels like HDPE or a similar un-glue-able material, so it was going to need a mechanical splice. A tiny 2-56 setscrew falls in the class of things my buddy Eks describes as “If your design needs those, you’re doing it wrong”, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

For the record, a 2-56 setscrew requires a 35 mil hex wrench. My tiny ziplock bag with tiny hex wrenches has one:

Razor Knife – 2-56 setscrew

The little wrench in the background measures 28 mils for 0-80 setscrews, of which I have none and don’t expect to get any.

Anyhow, facing, drilling, and tapping the stub proceeded handily:

Razor Knife – setscrew in thread stub

You’d think I hadn’t faced off the end, but you’d be wrong. As far as I can tell, the end of the screw would be happy to break for as long as I’d be willing to try cutting it. Perhaps this indicates why it broke and suggests this repair will be temporary, at best.

Doing the same to the collet required a clamp to fit its slightly oblong body:

Razor Knife – laser-cut collet clamps

Those of long memory may recall the hooks.

Which then worked exactly as you’d expect:

Razor Knife – collet in lathe chuck

That’s aggressive stick-out for a little plastic rod, but sissy cuts saved the day; it faced / drilled / tapped easily enough:

Razor Knife – collet repair parts

Despite the non-glue-able plastic, I tucked some JB PlasticBonder into the recesses, screwed everything together, and coerced the 8-32 threads into alignment inside the plastic nut:

Razor Knife – collet thread alignment

Reassemble in reverse order after the adhesive set up:

Razor Knife – repaired

Done!

Now, what was I doing?

2024-09-11
Worm Bin Valve Transplant

For reasons not relevant here, I have a spare water heater drain valve with a thread matching the drain valve for the Can-o-Worms bin:

Can-o-worms drain valve vs. water heater valve

It lacks the flange required to seal the O-ring against the outside of the bin, but I can fix that:

Can-o-worms – sleeved valve

It’s a chunk of PVC pipe faced to the proper length, bored to fit the valve body, then gooped in place with acrylic caulk.

Snug the nut inside the bin and it’s all good:

Can-o-worms – new valve installed

The original valve depended on having a smooth plug turning inside the outer shell, but years of grit scarred the interface enough to produce a slow drip. It also had the annoying mis-feature of aiming the opening inward, between the bin legs, where a jug didn’t quite fit.

The water heater valve depends on compressing a smaller O-ring against a seat inside the body, which may tend to clog with crud. We added a mesh filter to hold back the worst of the gunk, so this is in the nature of an experiment using free hardware.

2023-08-15
Mini-Lathe Carriage Stop Rebuild

I finally managed to whack the mini-lathe’s carriage stop handle with the chuck, prompting a quick repair:

Carriage Stop – handle epoxy clamping

I probably should have epoxied a rod into the recess under the handle, seated in a drilled hole into the hub, but let’s see how long this quick-n-dirty version lasts.

While ~~I had the hood up~~ epoxy was curing, I lasered a block of edge-lit acrylic to replace the credit card shims:

Carriage Stop – spacer

Which turned out to be one itsy too thick. Rather than sand / machine it down, the step over on the left grew a little brass shim:

Carriage Stop – spacer and shim

Both pieces depend on snippets of adhesive sheet to hold them in place, which seems reasonable because they’re always in compression. That also eliminates the hole and pin I originally thought would be necessary; living in the future is just grand.

Thing looks like it grew there:

Carriage Stop – installed

The orange stripe on the handle is laser-safe PSA vinyl.

That was easy …

2023-08-14
Mini-lathe Chuck Stops

Having occasionally been in need of a lathe chuck stop, I finally cleared that project off the heap:

Lathe Chuck Stops – demo setup

These are definitely not up to commercial standards, but also don’t cost fifty bucks each. A trio of 4×2 mm neodymium disk magnets stick the stop to the chuck (and to each other) with enough force to hold it there, but not enough to make removing it a hassle.

I imported the Z axis orthogonal view of the chuck jaws from the ball fixture for the running lights:

Lathe Chuck Jaws – solid model axial

Trace the right-side jaw, clean it up, put the tip a known distance from the origin, make a circular array, and draw a comfort circle the size of the chuck OD.

The stop geometry comes from a hull wrapped around a circle a few millimeters larger than the 4 mm magnet (out 20 mm from the center) and a circle at the center sized so the hull clears the jaws:

Lathe Chuck Stops – LB layout

Then a small circle at the center allows me to drop the stop atop a known coordinate and rotate it around the circle, because the XY coordinate center is not at the geometric center.

I cut out a few chipboard samples to verify the sizes, a few more from scrap acrylic to set up the pocketing operation, then half a dozen of each in cheerful kindergarten colors:

Lathe Chuck Stops – on-lathe storage

The 5 mm stop is obviously too fragile for commercial success, but I figured it’ll survive long enough around here. Worst case, I can make another handful as needed.

Although I have laser-engraved pockets in plywood, a few experiments in acrylic confirmed the surface finish is terrible and the depth control is iffy, at best. Given that I need a 2.2 mm deep pocket in 3 mm acrylic, a CNC mill seems the right way to poke the pockets:

Lathe Chuck Stops – pocketing setup

More on that tomorrow.

The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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view raw Lathe Chuck Stops – LB layout.svg hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2023-07-12
MaxLite Candelabra CFL: FAIL

The bathroom ceiling fixture has a nightlight position that we use occasionally, but eventually the little 7 W Christmas Tree bulb failed and I installed this hulk from a box of CFL bulbs a friend scrapped out after switching to LED bulbs:

MaxLite CFL – overview

I never tested whether it actually drew 3 W, but, hey I could feel good. Right? Right?

Anyhow, this one failed after a few years, too. The “bulb” envelope looked like it might make an attractive blinkie or glowie, so I decided to harvest it.

The candelabra screw base felt loose and popped off with a push:

MaxLite CFL – overflow cap

Perhaps they chose the envelope before finalizing the circuitry?

This is why you need a lathe in your shop:

MaxLite CFL – lathe cutting

It wasn’t particularly well centered, so that was done dead slow and finished with a few hand turns of the chuck. Obviously, I need a crank for the spindle.

The rest of the circuitry is pretty well packed under that tall cap:

MaxLite CFL – circuitry

Pulling the PCB out revealed the tube wiring:

MaxLite CFL – tube wires

Cut the wires and chuck it up again:

MaxLite CFL – envelope turning setup

Turn dead slow again until it breaks through:

MaxLite CFL – envelope breakthrough

Then finish by hand:

MaxLite CFL – tube and envelope

It’s too cute to throw out, but … sheesh you can see why recycling this stuff is so difficult.

For whatever it’s worth, I replaced it with a 3 W LED candelabra bulb that is way too bright.

2023-05-12