The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

Vacuum Tube LEDs: Radome Prototype

Definitely not a vacuum tube:

Arduino Pro Mini – NP-BX1 cell – SK6812 – blue phase

It’s running the same firmware, though, with the Arduino Pro Mini and the LEDs drawing power from the (mostly) defunct lithium battery.

The LED holder is identical to the Pirhana holder, with a 10 mm diameter recess punched into it for the SK6812 PCB:

Astable Multivibrator Battery Holder – Neopixel PCB – Slic3r

Those embossed legends sit in debossed rectangles for improved legibility. If I repeat it often enough, I’m sure I’ll remember which is which.

The 3.6 V (and declining) power supply may not produce as much light from the SK6812 LEDs, but it’s entirely adequate for anything other than a well-lit room. The 28 AWG silicone wires require a bit of careful dressing to emerge from the holes in the radome holder:

SK6812 LED PCB – Pirhana holder wiring

The firmware cycles through all the usual colors:

Arduino Pro Mini – NP-BX1 cell – SK6812 – orange phase

A pair of tensilized 22 AWG copper wires support the Pro Mini between the rear struts. The whole affair looks a bit heavier than I expected, though, so I should reduce the spider to a single pair of legs with a third hole in the bottom of the LED recess for the data wire.

The OpenSCAD source code needs some refactoring and tweaking, but the Pirhana LED solid model version of the battery holder should give you the general idea.

2019-01-29
Sony HDR-AS30V Helmet Camera: MicroSD Card Spacer

Sony tried, they really tried, to make their proprietary Memory Stick flash memory cards catch on, but the slot in their HDR-AS30V Action / Helmet camera accepts both Memory Stick Micro and MicroSD cards. The two cards have slightly different sizes, the AS30V’s dual-purpose slot allows MicroSD cards to sit misaligned with the contacts, and the camera frequently kvetches about having no card.

The only solution seemed to be starting the camera while watching the display to ensure the card worked, but it would sometimes joggle out of position during a ride.

I cut out a tiny polypropylene rectangle(-ish) spacer to fill the Memory Stick side of the slot, sized to fit between the spring fingers holding the MicroSD card against its contacts:

Sony HDR-AS30V Camera – MicroSD card and spacer

Not the best cutting job I’ve ever done, but it was an iterative process and that’s where I stopped. If this works and I have need for another / better spacer, I promise to do better.

The spacer’s somewhat mottled appearance comes from tapeless sticky (an adhesive layer on a peel-off backing: inverse tape!) applied to the top side, which will affix it to the slot. I’d rather glue the spacer to the MicroSD card, but then the card wouldn’t fit in the USB 3.0 adapter I use to transfer the files.

The chips along the left edge of silkscreen come from my fingernail, because pressing exactly there seems to be the best way to force the damn thing into the proper alignment.

So the slot + spacer looks like this:

Sony HDR-AS30V Camera – dual-card slot with spacer

The MicroSD card fits in the far side of the slot, facing toward you with contacts downward, thusly:

Sony HDR-AS30V Camera – MicroSD card with spacer

And then It Just Works™, at least on the very few rides we’ve gotten in during December and early January.

Incidentally, the blue and exceedingly thin latch finger holding the battery in place will snap, should you drop the camera on its non-lens end from any height. Conversely, should you drop it on the lens end, you can kiss the optics goodbye. Your choice.

2019-01-23
Tensilizing Copper Wire

The “bus bars” on the battery holders are 14 AWG copper wire:

Astable – NP-BX1 base – detail

Slightly stretching the wire straightens and work-hardens it, which I’d been doing by clamping one end in the bench vise, grabbing the other in a Vise-Grip, and whacking the Vise-Grip with a hammer. The results tended to be, mmm, hit-or-miss, with the wires often acquiring a slight bend due to an errant whack.

I finally fished out the slide hammer Mary made when we took a BOCES adult-ed machine shop class many many years ago:

Slide Hammer

The snout captured the head of a sheet metal screw you’d previously driven into a dented automobile fender. For my simple purposes, jamming the wire into the snout and tightening it firmly provides a Good Enough™ grip:

Slide Hammer Snout

Clamp the other end of the wire into the bench vise, pull gently on the hammer to take the slack out of the wire, and slap the weight until one end of the wire breaks.

With a bit of attention to detail, the wires come out perfectly straight and ready to become Art:

Straightened 14 AWG Copper Wires

The wires start out at 1.60 mm diameter (14 AWG should be 1.628, but you know how this stuff goes) and break around 1.55 mm. In principle, when the diameter drops 3%, the area will decrease by 6% and the length should increase by 6%, but in reality the 150 mm length stretches by only 1 mm = 1%, not 3 mm. My measurement-fu seems weak.

Highly recommended, particularly when your Favorite Wife made the tool.

The Harbor Freight version comes with a bunch of snouts suitable for car repair and is utterly unromantic.

2019-01-18
Minilathe MT3 Spindle Collet Fitting

I’ve used the LMS set of inch-size MT3 spindle collets on occasion, but releasing them required an unseemly amount of drawbar battering. It recently occurred to me to check their fit in the spindle taper:

Minilathe – MT3 collet – taper test

Huh.

The only place they touch the spindle is right around the base, so it’s no wonder they clamp poorly and release grudgingly. I tried several others with the same result.

Cross-checking shows a much closer fit along the entire length of the dead center, so it’s not the spindle’s fault:

Minilathe – Dead Center – MT3 taper check

Stipulated: we’re not talking toolroom precision here

I set the collets on centers:

Minilathe – MT3 collet – drive setup

And proceeded to file away the offending section to move the clamping force closer to the business end of the collet:

Minilathe – MT3 collet – filed result

I did the small collets, the ones I’m most likely to need, and left the big ones for another rainy day.

They don’t have much clamping range and seem good only for exact-inch-size rods.

I should lay in a stock of ER16 and maybe ER32 collets for small stuff.

2019-01-16
Debossed Printed Legends

[Update: It seems I interchanged “em” and “de” throughout this post. ]

Up to this point, I’ve been labeling printed parts with emdebossed legends that look OK on the solid model:

Astable Multivibrator Battery Holder

Alas, the recessed letters become lost in their perimeter threads:

3D Printed Legend – Embossed

Raising the legend above the surface (“deembossing”) works reasonably well, but raised letters would interfere with sliding the battery into the holder and tend to get lost amid the surface infill pattern.

The blindingly obvious solution, after far too long, raises the letters above a frame embossed into the surface:

Astable Multivibrator Battery Holder – Legend Debossed

Which looks OK in the real world, too:

3D Printed Legend – Debossed

The frame is one thread deep and the legend is one thread tall, putting the letters flush with the surrounding surface and allowing the battery to slide smoothly.

The legend on the bottom surface shows even more improvement:

NP-BX1 battery holder – Raised vs Recessed Legend

An OpenSCAD program can’t get the size of a rendered text string, so the fixed-size frame must surround the largest possible text, which isn’t much of a problem for my simple needs.

2019-01-14
Multimeter Probe Cable: FAIL

A reasonably good silicone-wire multimeter probe set arrived last spring and has worked well enough (I thought, anyhow) for the usual voltage measurements, but recently failed while measuring a small current. We all know how this will turn out, but the details may be of some interest.

Measuring the resistance from tip to plug located the fault to the black probe, after which I poked a pin through the insulation near the plug:

Multimeter probe – diagnosis

The two leads near the bottom go to my shiny Siglent bench multimeter. Despite their similarity to the failed probes, I’m pretty sure Siglent has better QC (well, mostly).

The probe’s resistance was near zero from the tip (offscreen to the left) to the pin and megohms from pin to plug (on the right). Figuring the wire worked loose, I pulled it away from the plug:

Multimeter probe – disassembly 1

Huh.

Although I wouldn’t have trusted those probes anywhere near their alleged 1 kV rating, seeing that exposed copper-like substance was disconcerting.

Hacking off the strain relief bushing around the wire got closer to the fault:

Multimeter probe – disassembly 2

And, finally, the problem becomes obvious:

Multimeter probe – disassembly 3

Yet Another Cold Solder Joint:

Multimeter probe – cold solder joint

Pulling a black banana plug from the heap, I decided to drill a proper hole to anchor the wire:

Multimeter probe – drilling plug

Which looked like this afterward:

Multimeter probe – soldered plug

And produced a strongly mismatched pair:

Multimeter probe – repaired

Ain’t it amazing how much fun you can have for a few bucks, all delivered by eBay? [sigh]

2019-01-04
Astable Multivibrator: RGB LED Circuitry First Light

It lights up just like it should:

Astable RGB LED – green phase

In colors:

Astable RGB LED – red phase

The blue LED works, too, but I didn’t catch any of those blinks.

The spider should be done in black PETG, just like the battery holder, but I didn’t realize which filament was running until too late. Even the blue LED lights up the orange spider just fine!

The circuitry behind (well, below) the RGB LED Radome consists of three copies of the original multivibrator, with mirror image layouts to match the wire struts:

RGB LED Schematic – NPN transistors

The solder joints adhere to exactly none of the usual good practices:

Astable RGB LED – assembled

The simulation matches the actual blink times reasonably well:

Astable – 2N2222 cap voltages

It’s unpleasantly frenetic in real life. The next version must have much much longer time constants.

Unfortunately, the simulation also confirms my suspicion that I’ve been abusing the electrolytic capacitors with reverse-polarity waveforms. I suspect it doesn’t really matter too much, as the maximum voltage in either direction remains under a volt at very low currents, but it’s the principle of the thing.

Soooo, lengthening the time constants by increasing the capacitances seems like a Bad Idea.

Alas, increasing the resistors by an order of magnitude won’t work, either, because (despite appearances) the whole thing sits right on the hairy edge of not working. As the battery discharges toward its 2.5 V cutoff level, the currents drop and the circuitry becomes increasingly sensitive to touch. After a day or two, one of the LEDs will jam solidly on, while the others continue to blink merrily away. Removing and reinstalling the battery will sometimes resume proper operation, but it’s definitely not stable enough for production use.

Which makes a MOSFET astable multivibrator seem like a Good Idea.

One could achieve the same visible result with a few cents of microcontroller and a dab of software, but most of the charm comes from its analog nature and all those visible components.

2018-12-31