The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Floor Sweepings from eBay

    Ordered 100 stainless steel M3 washers from a “US Seller”, received this:

    M3 stainless steel washers - short count
    M3 stainless steel washers – short count

    Yeah, it looked a bit short to me, too.

    The chopped and bent washers in the upper right corner suggest the seller got floor sweepings from his source, which is about what you’d expect for a bottom-dollar vendor.

    The seller refunded half, which wasn’t particularly generous, but I wasn’t ready to go to the mat for two bucks.

  • Raspberry Pi “Moster” Heatsink Retaping

    A pair of colorful laser-cut stacked acrylic Raspberry Pi cases with “Moster” (*) heatsinks arrived, with the intent of dressing up the HP 7475A plotters for their next Show-n-Tell:

    Moster RPi Heatsink - assembled case
    Moster RPi Heatsink – assembled case

    Unfortunately, the thermal tape on one of the CPU heatsinks was sufficiently wrinkled to prevent good contact with the CPU:

    RPi taped heatsinks - as received
    RPi taped heatsinks – as received

    The seller sent a replacement copper slug with tape on one side. Presumably, they glue it to the heatsink with thermal silicone:

    Moster RPi Heatsink - silicone adhesive
    Moster RPi Heatsink – silicone adhesive

    Of which, I have none on hand.

    So I did what I should have done originally, which was to drop a few bucks on a lifetime supply of thermally conductive heatsink tape, apply it to the bare side of the slug and stick the slug to the heatsink with their tape:

    Moster RPi Heatsink - replacement adhesive tape
    Moster RPi Heatsink – replacement adhesive tape

    The blue stuff is the separation film, with the tape being white. It doesn’t match the black tape on the other side, but seems gooey enough to work.

    Done!

    Despite the heatsink hype, ball grid array chips dissipate most of their heat through their pads (and perhaps a central thermal pad) into the PCB, so sticking a heatsink atop the package is largely decorative, along the lines of hotrod ornamentation.

    The epoxy packages used in previous Raspberry Pi iterations had better thermal conductivity to their top surface:

    RPi 3 B - epoxy CPU
    RPi 3 B – epoxy CPU

    Than the more recent metal-top packages, which surely have inert-gas fill under the lid:

    RPi 3 B - metal CPU
    RPi 3 B – metal CPU

    Pix cropped after being pilfered from the Official Raspberry Pi site.

    Yes, the heatsink does conduct some heat into the air, even if not nearly as much as you might want.

    (*) I’m pretty sure “Moster” was a typo in the original eBay listing which took on a life of its own to become something of an unofficial trademark. All of the search results ship from Duluth, Georgia (USA), regardless of the nominal seller; feel free to draw your own conclusions.

  • CNC 3018-Pro: Table Riser

    With the 3018-Pro used for drag engraving on CDs and hard drive platters, there’s no need for all the clearance below the Z-axis carriage required for the OEM motor and ER11 collet chuck. A chunk of laminate countertop and a hunk of Celotex foam insulation produce a nicely flat surface 47 mm above the platform:

    CNC 3018 Table Riser
    CNC 3018 Table Riser

    It’s surprisingly flat:

    Table Flatness Measurement - 2019-08-30
    Table Flatness Measurement – 2019-08-30

    Those are millimeters of clearance between the gray plastic clamp around the diamond drag tool holder (about which, more later) and my trusty bench block, measured at 50 mm intervals across the platform. The lower figures appeared after tightening the upper-left screw by a little over 1/6 turn = 0.2 mm, making the entire platform flat & aligned within ±0.1 mm.

    Yeah, not bad for a scrap countertop!

    The four M6 socket head cap screws pass through the stack into T-nuts in the platform:

    CNC 3018 Table Riser - screw clearance
    CNC 3018 Table Riser – screw clearance

    The countertop was thick enough to allow countersinking the screws slightly below the surface:

    CNC 3018 Table Riser - screw countersink
    CNC 3018 Table Riser – screw countersink

    I transfer-punched the screw clearance hole locations into the Celotex and drilled it with an ordinary twist drill. It wasn’t pretty, but nobody will ever notice.

    Two sheets, maybe 1 mm thick, of closed-cell foam below the Celotext provide enough squish to align the top surface without straining anything. The screws are firmly tight, so they shouldn’t work their way loose under minimal engraving loads.

    Taping the CDs to the surface works well for now, although a simpler version of the fixture may be in order.

  • CNC 3018-Pro: Probe Camera Case for Anonymous USB Camera

    The anonymous USB camera I used with the stereo zoom microscope not only works with VLC, but also with bCNC, and it has a round PCB with ears:

    CNC 3018-Pro - Probe Camera - PCB
    CNC 3018-Pro – Probe Camera – PCB

    Which suggested putting it in a ball mount for E-Z aiming:

    CNC 3018-Pro - Probe Camera - ball mount
    CNC 3018-Pro – Probe Camera – ball mount

    Black filament snippets serve as alignment pins to hold the ball halves together while they’re getting clamped. They’re epoxied into the upper half of the ball, because who knows when I’ll need to harvest the camera.

    The clamp mount descends from the Tour Easy Daytime Running Lights, with more screws and less fancy shaping:

    USB Camera - Round PCB Mount - solid model - build
    USB Camera – Round PCB Mount – solid model – build

    The clamp pieces fit around the ball with four M3 screws providing the clamping force:

    USB Camera - Round PCB Mount - solid model sectioned
    USB Camera – Round PCB Mount – solid model sectioned

    The whole affair sticks onto the Z axis carrier with double-sided foam tape:

    CNC 3018-Pro - Probe Camera - alignment
    CNC 3018-Pro – Probe Camera – alignment

    It barely clears the strut on the -X side of the carriage, although it does stick out over the edge of the chassis.

    After the fact, I tucked a closed-cell foam ring between the lens threads and the ball housing to stabilize the lens; the original camera glued the thing in place, but some fiddly alignment & focusing lies ahead:

    Alignment mirror - collimation
    Alignment mirror – collimation

    It’s worth noting that the optical axis of these cheap cameras rarely coincides with the physical central axis of the lens. This one requires a jaunty tilt, although it’s not noticeable in any of the pictures I tried to take.

    All in all, this one works just like the probe camera on the MPCNC.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // CNC 3018-Pro Probe Camera mount for anonymous USB camera
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU – August 2019
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show, Build, Ball, Clamp, Bracket, Mount]
    //——-
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    // Print with 2 shells
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    inch = 25.4;
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    //——-
    // Dimensions
    //– Camera
    PCBThick = 1.2;
    PCBDia = 25.0;
    KeySize = [28.0,8.5,IntegerMultiple(PCBThick,ThreadThick)];
    KeyOffset = [0.0,2.0,0.0];
    KeyRadius = IntegerMultiple(sqrt(pow(KeySize.y – KeyOffset.y,2) + pow(KeySize.x/2,2)),0.01);
    echo(str("Key radius: ",KeyRadius));
    Lens = [14.0,18.0,25.0];
    BallID = PCBDia;
    BallOD = IntegerMultiple(2*KeyRadius,5.0);
    echo(str("Ball OD: ",BallOD));
    WallThick = 3.0;
    CableOD = 3.75;
    NumPins = 3;
    Pin = [1.75,1.8,5.0];
    Screw = [
    3.0,6.8,25.0 // M3 ID=thread, OD=washer, LENGTH=below head
    ];
    RoundRadius = IntegerMultiple(Screw[OD]/2,1.0); // corner rounding
    ClampSize = [BallOD + 2*WallThick,BallOD + 2*WallThick,20.0];
    echo(str("Clamp: ",ClampSize));
    MountSize = [5.0,BallOD,25.0];
    MountClearance = 1.0; // distance between clamp and mount
    Kerf = 2*ThreadThick;
    ScrewOC = [ClampSize.x – 2*RoundRadius,ClampSize.y – 2*RoundRadius];
    echo(str("Screw OC: ",ScrewOC));
    Insert = [ // brass insert: body, knurl,length
    3.9,4.9,8.0
    ];
    UseInsert = false;
    NumSides = 12*4;
    //——-
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    //——-
    // Components
    module CamBall(Section="Both") {
    Offset = (Section == "Both") ? 0 :
    (Section == "Upper") ? BallOD/2 :
    (Section == "Lower") ? -BallOD/2 :
    0;
    render(convexity=4)
    intersection(convexity = 3) {
    difference() {
    sphere(d=BallOD,$fn=NumSides);
    sphere(d=BallID,$fn=NumSides); // interior
    PolyCyl(CableOD,2*BallOD,8); // cable & lens holes
    translate([0,0,-Lens[LENGTH]])
    PolyCyl(Lens[OD],Lens[LENGTH],NumSides);
    translate([0,0,-PCBThick])
    PolyCyl(PCBDia,PCBThick,NumSides);
    translate(KeyOffset + [0,-KeySize.y/2,-PCBThick/2]) // PCB key
    cube(KeySize,center=true);
    for (i=[0:NumPins – 1])
    rotate(i*360/NumPins)
    translate([0,-(BallID + BallOD)/4,-Pin[LENGTH]/2])
    PolyCyl(Pin[OD],Pin[LENGTH],6);
    }
    translate([0,0,Offset])
    cube([BallOD,BallOD,BallOD] + 2*[Protrusion,Protrusion,0],center=true);
    }
    }
    module Clamp(Section="Both") {
    Offset = (Section == "Both") ? 0 :
    (Section == "Upper") ? ClampSize.z/2 :
    (Section == "Lower") ? -ClampSize.z/2 :
    0;
    render(convexity=4)
    intersection() {
    difference() {
    hull()
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*ScrewOC.x/2,j*ScrewOC.y/2,0])
    cylinder(r=RoundRadius,h=ClampSize.z,$fn=NumSides,center=true);
    sphere(d=BallOD + 2*HoleWindage,$fn=NumSides); // space around camera ball
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // screws
    translate([i*ScrewOC.x/2,j*ScrewOC.y/2,-ClampSize.z])
    PolyCyl(Screw[ID],2*ClampSize.z,6);
    if (UseInsert)
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // inserts
    translate([i*ScrewOC.x/2,j*ScrewOC.y/2,-(ClampSize.z/2 + Protrusion)])
    PolyCyl(Insert[OD],Insert[LENGTH] + Protrusion,8);
    cube([2*ClampSize.x,2*ClampSize.y,Kerf],center=true); // clamping gap
    }
    translate([0,0,Offset])
    cube([ClampSize.x,ClampSize.y,ClampSize.z] + 2*[Protrusion,Protrusion,0],center=true);
    }
    }
    module Bracket() {
    translate([ClampSize.x/2 + MountSize.x/2 + MountClearance,0,MountSize.z/2 – ClampSize.z/2])
    cube(MountSize,center=true);
    translate([ClampSize.x/2 + MountClearance/2,0,-(ClampSize.z + Kerf)/4])
    cube([MountClearance + 2*Protrusion,MountSize.y,(ClampSize.z – Kerf)/2],center=true);
    }
    module Mount() {
    union() {
    Clamp("Lower");
    Bracket();
    }
    }
    //——-
    // Build it!
    if (Layout == "Ball")
    CamBall();
    if (Layout == "Clamp")
    Clamp();
    if (Layout == "Bracket")
    Bracket();
    if (Layout == "Mount")
    Mount();
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    difference() {
    union() {
    color("Purple")
    Clamp("Upper");
    Mount();
    color("LimeGreen")
    CamBall();
    }
    rotate([0,0,45])
    translate([-ClampSize.x,0,0])
    cube(2*ClampSize,center=true);
    }
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    Gap = 0.6;
    translate([-Gap*BallOD,Gap*BallOD,0])
    CamBall("Upper");
    translate([-Gap*BallOD,-Gap*BallOD,0])
    rotate([0,180,0])
    CamBall("Lower");
    translate([Gap*ClampSize.x,-Gap*ClampSize.y,ClampSize.z/2])
    rotate([0,180,0])
    Clamp("Upper");
    translate([Gap*ClampSize.x,Gap*ClampSize.y,ClampSize.z/2]) {
    rotate(180)
    Mount();
    }
    }

  • CNC 3018-Pro: Probe Camera Case for Logitch QuickCam Pro 5000

    The ball-shaped Logitch QuickCam Pro 5000 has a rectangular PCB, so conjuring a case wasn’t too challenging:

    Probe Camera Case - Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 - bottom
    Probe Camera Case – Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 – bottom

    That’s more-or-less matte black duct tape to cut down reflections.

    The top side has a cover made from scuffed acrylic scrap:

    Probe Camera Case - Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 - top
    Probe Camera Case – Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 – top

    The corners are slightly rounded to fit under the screw heads holding it in place.

    The solid model shows off the internal ledge positioning the PCB so the camera lens housing rests on the floor:

    3018 Probe Camera Mount - solid model
    3018 Probe Camera Mount – solid model

    The notch lets the cable out, while keeping it in one place and providing some strain relief.

    I though if a camera was recognized by V4L2 and worked with VLC, it was good to go:

    Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 - short focus
    Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 – short focus

    Regrettably, it turns out the camera has a pixel format incompatible with the Python opencv interface used by bCNC. This may have something to do with running the code on a Raspberry Pi, rather than an x86 box.

    The camera will surely come in handy for something else, especially with such a cute case.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Probe Camera Mount for CNC 3018-Pro Z Axis
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU – 2019-08
    Layout = "Block"; // [Show,Build,Block]
    Support = false;
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    inch = 25.4;
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    PCB = [45.0,38.0,1.5]; // Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 ball camera
    PCBLip = 1.0; // max non-component border
    PCBChamfer = 3.0; // cut along XY axes for corner bevel
    PCBClearTop = 15.0; // cables & connectors
    PCBClearSides = [0.5,0.5]; // irregular edges & comfort zone
    PCBClearBelow = 5.0; // lens support bracket rests on floor
    Lens = [11.5,14.2,3.0]; // LENGTH = beyond PCBClearBelow bracket
    LensOffset = [-1.5,0.0,0]; // distance from center of board
    CableOD = 4.5;
    BaseThick = Lens[LENGTH];
    Screw = [
    3.0,6.8,18.0 // M3 OD=washer, LENGTH=below head
    ];
    RoundRadius = IntegerMultiple(Screw[OD]/2,1.0); // corner rounding
    ScrewOC = [PCB.x + 2*sqrt(Screw[OD]),PCB.y + 2*sqrt(Screw[OD])];
    echo(str("Screw OC: ",ScrewOC));
    Lid = [ScrewOC.x,ScrewOC.y,1.0/16.0 * inch]; // top cover plate
    echo(str("Lid: ",Lid));
    BlockSize = [ScrewOC.x + 2*RoundRadius,ScrewOC.y + 2*RoundRadius,
    BaseThick + PCBClearBelow + PCB.z + PCBClearTop + Lid.z];
    echo(str("Block: ",BlockSize));
    NumSides = 2*3*4;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    // Basic shapes
    // Overall block
    module Block() {
    difference() {
    hull()
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*ScrewOC.x/2,j*ScrewOC.y/2,0])
    cylinder(r=RoundRadius,h=BlockSize.z,$fn=NumSides);
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // corner screws
    translate([i*ScrewOC.x/2,j*ScrewOC.y/2,BlockSize.z – Screw[LENGTH]])
    cylinder(d=Screw[ID],h=2*Screw[LENGTH],$fn=8); // cylinder = undersized
    translate(LensOffset + [0,0,-Protrusion]) // lens body
    PolyCyl(Lens[OD],2*BlockSize.z,NumSides);
    translate([0,0,BlockSize.z/2 + BaseThick]) // PCB lip on bottom
    cube([PCB.x – 2*PCBLip,PCB.y,BlockSize.z],center=true);
    translate([0,0,BlockSize.z/2 + BaseThick + PCBClearBelow]) // PCB clearance
    cube([PCB.x + 2*PCBClearSides.x,PCB.y + 2*PCBClearSides.y,BlockSize.z],center=true);
    translate([0,0,BlockSize.z – Lid.z/2]) // lid recess
    cube(Lid + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);
    translate([0,Lid.y/2 – CableOD/2,BaseThick + PCBClearBelow + PCB.z]) // cable exit
    hull()
    for (j=[-1,1])
    translate([0,j*CableOD/4,0])
    rotate(180/8)
    PolyCyl(CableOD,BlockSize.z,8);
    }
    }
    //- Build it
    if (Layout == "Block")
    Block();
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    Block();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    Block();
    }

  • CNC 3018-Pro: Platter Fixtures

    Up to this point, the Sherline has been drilling 3.5 inch hard drive platters to serve as as reflecting bases for the vacuum tubes:

    LinuxCNC - Sherline Mill - Logitech Gamepad
    LinuxCNC – Sherline Mill – Logitech Gamepad

    The CNC 3018-Pro has a work envelope large enough for CD / DVD platters, so I mashed the Sherline fixture with dimensions from the vacuum tube code, added the 3018’s T-slot spacing, and conjured a pair of fixtures for a pair of machines.

    Because I expect to practice on scrap CDs and DVDs for a while:

    Platter Fixtures - CD on 3018
    Platter Fixtures – CD on 3018

    And a 3.5 inch hard drive platter version:

    Platter Fixtures - hard drive platter on 3018
    Platter Fixtures – hard drive platter on 3018

    The holes sit at half the 3018’s T-slot spacing (45 mm / 2), so you can nudge the fixtures to the front or rear, as you prefer.

    The alignment dots & slots should help touch off the XY coordinate system on the Sherline, although it can’t reach all of a CD. Using bCNC’s video alignment on the hub hole will be much easier on the 3018.

    After fiddling around with the 3018 for a while, however, the CD fixture doesn’t have many advantages over simply taping the disc to a flat platen. Obviously, you’d want a sacrificial layer for drilling, but it’s not clear the OEM motor / ER11 chuck would be up to that task.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Machining fixtures for CD and hard drive platters
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU February … September 2016
    // 2019-08 split from tube base models
    PlatterName = "CD"; // [3.5inch,CD]
    CNCName = "3018"; // [3018,Sherline]
    PlateThick = 5.0; // [5.0,10.0,15.0]
    RecessDepth = 4.0; // [0.0,2.0,4.0]
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(d=(FixDia + HoleWindage),h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    P_NAME = 0; // platter name
    P_ID = 1; // … inner diameter
    P_OD = 2; // … outer diameter
    P_THICK = 3; // … thickness
    PlatterData = [
    ["3.5inch", 25.0, 95.0, 1.75],
    ["CD", 15.0, 120.0, 1.20],
    ];
    PlatterSides = 3*4*5; // polygon approximation
    B_NAME = 0; // machine name
    B_OC = 1; // … platform screw OC, use small integer for slot
    B_STUD = 2; // … screw OD clearance
    BaseData = [
    ["3018", [5.0, 45.0], 6.0], // slots along X axis
    ["Sherline", [1.16*inch,1.16*inch], 5.0], // tooling plate
    ];
    //———————-
    // Drilling fixture for disk platters
    module PlatterFixture(Disk,Machine) {
    PI = search([Disk],PlatterData,1,0)[P_NAME]; // get platter index
    echo(str("Platter: ",Disk));
    Platter = [PlatterData[PI][P_ID],
    PlatterData[PI][P_OD],
    PlatterData[PI][P_THICK]];
    BI = search([Machine],BaseData,1,0)[B_NAME]; // get base index
    echo(str("Machine: ",Machine));
    AlignOC = IntegerMultiple(Platter[OD],10);
    echo(str("Align OC: ",AlignOC));
    AlignSlot = [3*ThreadWidth,10.0,3*ThreadThick];
    StudClear = BaseData[BI][B_STUD]; // … clearance
    StudOC = [IntegerMultiple(AlignOC + 2*StudClear,BaseData[BI][B_OC].x), // … screw spacing
    BaseData[BI][B_OC].y];
    echo(str("Stud spacing: ",StudOC));
    NumStuds = [2,1 + 2*floor(Platter[OD] / StudOC.y)]; // holes only along ±X edges
    echo(str("Stud holes: ",NumStuds));
    BasePlate = [(20 + StudOC.x*ceil(Platter[OD] / StudOC.x)),
    (10 + AlignOC),
    PlateThick];
    echo(str("Plate: ",BasePlate));
    PlateRound = 10.0; // corner radius
    difference() {
    hull() // basic plate shape
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*(BasePlate.x/2 – PlateRound),j*(BasePlate.y/2 – PlateRound),0])
    cylinder(r=PlateRound,h=BasePlate.z,$fn=4*4);
    for (i=[-1,0,1], j=[-1,0,1]) // origin pips
    translate([i*AlignOC/2,j*AlignOC/2,BasePlate.z – 2*ThreadThick])
    cylinder(d=4*ThreadWidth,h=1,$fn=6);
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) { // alignment slots
    translate([i*(AlignOC + AlignSlot.x)/2,
    j*Platter[OD]/4,
    (BasePlate.z – AlignSlot.z/2 + Protrusion/2)])
    cube(AlignSlot + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);
    translate([i*Platter[OD]/4,
    j*(AlignOC + AlignSlot.x)/2,
    (BasePlate.z – AlignSlot.z/2 + Protrusion/2)])
    rotate(90)
    cube(AlignSlot + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);
    }
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-floor(NumStuds.y/2):floor(NumStuds.y/2)]) // mounting stud holes
    translate([i*StudOC.x/2,j*StudOC.y/2,-Protrusion])
    rotate(180/6)
    PolyCyl(StudClear,BasePlate.z + 2*Protrusion,6);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion]) // center clamp hole
    rotate(180/6)
    PolyCyl(StudClear,BasePlate.z + 2*Protrusion,6);
    translate([0,0,BasePlate.z – Platter[LENGTH]]) // disk locating recess
    rotate(180/PlatterSides)
    linear_extrude(height=(Platter[LENGTH] + Protrusion),convexity=2)
    difference() {
    circle(d=(Platter[OD] + HoleWindage),$fn=PlatterSides);
    circle(d=Platter[ID] – HoleWindage,$fn=PlatterSides);
    }
    translate([0,0,BasePlate.z – RecessDepth]) // drilling recess
    rotate(180/PlatterSides)
    linear_extrude(height=(RecessDepth + Protrusion),convexity=2)
    difference() {
    circle(d=(Platter[OD] – 10),$fn=PlatterSides);
    circle(d=(Platter[ID] + 10),$fn=PlatterSides);
    }
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    PlatterFixture(PlatterName,CNCName);

  • Printer Filament Millifiori

    I finally decommissioned my old Thing-O-Matic, as it’s been far surpassed by the current generation of dirt-cheap Prusa-style 3D printers, and must now figure out what to do with about 10 kg of 3 mm ABS filament. Yes, 3 mm filament from back in the Bad Old Days.

    Also back in the day, our Larval Engineer made millifiori creations in glass (at school) and polymer clay, building up the final piece from murrine canes, which suggested a similar technique using filament strands:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - slice detail
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – slice detail

    Well, maybe it’s not exactly art

    Just to see how it might work, I packed a random length of conduit with filament snippets and jammed a thermocouple into the middle:

    Filament Millefiori - packed conduit
    Filament Millefiori – packed conduit

    Which went into the shop’s sacrificial Dutch oven over low heat:

    Filament Millefiori - conduit heating
    Filament Millefiori – conduit heating

    For lack of anything smarter, I slowly heated it to 250 °C, well above what the Thing-O-Matic used for extrusion, let it soak for a few minutes, then let the tube cool on the counter.

    Some persuasion with a hammer and drift punch extracted the fused filament:

    Filament Millefiori - 250C results
    Filament Millefiori – 250C results

    Obviously, the concept needs more work, but the bottom side looks promising:

    Filament Millefiori - 250C results - bottom
    Filament Millefiori – 250C results – bottom

    Wrapping the bundle with silicone tape should keep the filament from sticking to the tube and provide uniform compression:

    Filament Millefiori - 235C silicone wrap
    Filament Millefiori – 235C silicone wrap

    I forced it into the tube and wrapped the whole affair with aluminum foil to confine the hot ABS stench:

    Filament Millefiori - 235C heating
    Filament Millefiori – 235C heating

    I held this one at 235 °C for a few minutes, cooled, unwrapped, and discovered the silicone wrap worked as expected:

    Filament Millefiori - 235C thermocouple blob
    Filament Millefiori – 235C thermocouple blob

    OK, the blob on each end wasn’t expected, but at least the thermocouple came out with gentle persuasion. The compressed filament looked like it should be edible:

    Filament Millefiori - 235C results
    Filament Millefiori – 235C results

    The molten filament oozed out of the wrap inside the tube, over there toward the right.

    The filament snippets have a distinct curvature, brought on by years spent snuggled around a spool’s core, so I wondered if they could be straightened by application of somewhat less heat. Wikipedia lists the glass transition temperature for various ABS compositions as around 105 °C, so I packed the tube with more snippets and affixed the thermocouple with silicone tape:

    Filament Millefiori - 100C setup
    Filament Millefiori – 100C setup

    Wrap with foil, heat to 100 °C, let cool, and they’re definitely straighter than the unheated white strand at the bottom:

    Filament Millefiori - 100C results
    Filament Millefiori – 100C results

    Having learned my lesson with a thermocouple inside the strands, the straightened strands get a looser silicone wrap with the thermocouple secured to the outside of the bundle:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C setup
    Filament Millefiori – 160C setup

    Heat to 160 °C:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C setup
    Filament Millefiori – 160C setup

    Let cool and (easily!) slide the compressed bundle out of the tube:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C cooling
    Filament Millefiori – 160C cooling

    The silicone wrap definitely mushed the strands together, as shown by the larger diameter on the uncompressed end:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C results
    Filament Millefiori – 160C results

    Bandsawing the bundle reveals nicely fused filaments inside, along with melty ends that stuck out of the wrap:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C cut end
    Filament Millefiori – 160C cut end

    Thinking shorter lengths might pack better without straightening, I faced the ends of a thick aluminum pipe and stuffed as many snippets into it as would fit. This is the point where a real artist would arrange the filaments in a pleasing pattern, if not a picture, but I was content with a random layout:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - cable in pipe
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – cable in pipe

    That’s what the ends looked like after heating to 160 °C: somewhat glazed, reasonably fused, but certainly not compacted. The other end pointed upward and definitely felt the heat:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - cable melty end detail
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – cable melty end detail

    With a PCV pipe “collet” holding the cable / cane / murrina in the chuck, I faced the end:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - cable facing
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – cable facing

    After taking this picture, I came to my senses and bandsawed the slice instead:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - cutoff tool
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – cutoff tool

    Parting the slice in the lathe might have worked, but it just seemed like a really really bad idea when I looked at the setup.

    A PVC pipe spacer kept the slice lined up in the chuck jaws while facing the bandsawed end:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - slice facing
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – slice facing

    The slice and the cable:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - slice and cable
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – slice and cable

    Although the filament snippets fuse together without a silicone tape compression wrap, the gaps collect plenty of swarf during the cutting & facing:

    Filament Millefiori - 160C pipe - cable end detail
    Filament Millefiori – 160C pipe – cable end detail

    The snippets along the outside, closest to the pipe, obviously got hotter than the ones in the middle and fused more solidly.

    The pipe has a 35 mm ID for an area 136 times larger than a 3 mm filament. I packed about 100 snippets into the pipe, a 0.73 packing fraction, which looks to be in the right ballpark for the high end of the Circle Packing Problem. If they were straighter, maybe a few more would fit, but twisting the lot into a cable seemed to align them pretty well.

    Perhaps filling the gaps with pourable epoxy before cutting the slices would help? A completely filled interior might require pulling a good vacuum on the whole thing.

    A hexagonal pipe would produce slices one could tile into a larger sheet.

    All in all, a useful exercise, but … it ain’t Art yet!