The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • Kitchen Blender Base Spacer

    We don’t use the blender much, so the most recent bearing replacement continues to work. I never got around to re-making the overly long shaft spacer from the first bearing replacement, which I compensated for with a spacer kludge cut from a random chunk of bendy plastic sheet.

    Which we put up with For. Eleven. Years.

    The blender recently emerged from hiding and, with my solid modeling-fu cranked up to a dangerous chattering whine, I conjured a real spacer:

    Blender base spacer - Slic3r preview
    Blender base spacer – Slic3r preview

    It pretty much disappears into the blender base, which is the whole point of the operation:

    Blender base spacer - installed
    Blender base spacer – installed

    When the bearings fail again, I promise to make a proper shaft spacer and toss this bodge.

    The OpenSCAD code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Kitchen blender base adapter
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU June 2019
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    //———-
    // Just build it
    Spacer = [48.0,66.0,1.8]; // LENGTH raises blade holder
    Aligner = [Spacer[ID],52.0,Spacer[LENGTH] + 3.0]; // LENGTH locks into base ring
    NumSides = 4*3*4;
    //———-
    // Just build it
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d=Spacer[OD],h=IntegerMultiple(Spacer[LENGTH],ThreadThick),$fn=NumSides);
    cylinder(d=Aligner[OD],h=Aligner[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d=Spacer[ID],h=10*Aligner[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides);
    }

    Not that it really deserves so much attention …

  • Dryer Vent Adapter Rebuild

    When we bought this house, it had its original clothes dryer, which was vented directly through the wall with a few inches of 3×10 inch square duct. Alas, contemporary dryers use 4 inch round hoses, so I conjured a round-to-square adapter from a length of air handler duct:

    Dryer Vent - end view
    Dryer Vent – end view

    I’d used … wait for it … duct tape to hold the end caps on, because I knew I’d be taking it apart to clean out the fuzz every now & again. The most recent cleanout occurred when I noticed the end cap had eased its way out of the adapter, releasing warm fuzzy air behind the dryer.

    The solution, which I should have done decades ago, holds the end caps in place with sheet metal screws:

    Dryer Vent - screws installed
    Dryer Vent – screws installed

    A pair of small clamps held everything in the proper location while I applied a suitable step drill and installed the screw:

    Dryer Vent - screw clamps
    Dryer Vent – screw clamps

    Now the duct tape just seals the gaps, rather than holding against the minimal pressure in the box, and it should be all good until the next cleanout.

    So simple I should’a done it decades ago. Right?

  • Hearphone Deterioration

    I bought my Bose Hearphones in late August 2017, so they’re just shy of two years old, and have used them more-or-less daily since then. Although the innards still improve my hearing, the exterior is falling apart:

    Bose Hearphones - cosmetic repairs
    Bose Hearphones – cosmetic repairs

    The conspicuous blue tips come from silicone tape holding the “soft touch” silicone shell together:

    Bose Hearphones - detached band cover
    Bose Hearphones – detached band cover

    The white line seems to be silicone glue holding the hard cover plate to the equally hard base. So far, it’s working, but the two-piece soft cover is peeling away from the very thin adhesive (?) holding it to the hard parts.

    The silicone glue under the flexy cover on the control pod along the right earbud cable hasn’t fared as well:

    Bose Hearphones - failed control cover
    Bose Hearphones – failed control cover

    I blobbed ordinary RTV silicone under the cover, ignoring the caveats about acetic acid corrosion, because I don’t have any platinum-cure silicone on the shelf.

    When the blue tape wears out / falls off, I’ll replace it with black silicone tape going further up the ring to hold the rest of the soft cover in place:

    Bose Hearphones - cosmetic repairs - detail
    Bose Hearphones – cosmetic repairs – detail

    The ear buds have soft silicone strain relief tubes around the cables. The friction holding them in place failed long ago and, because no adhesive will work with silicone, I wrapped enough double-sided tape around the cables to produce a sticky lump jamming them in place:

    Bose Hearphones - ear piece strain relief
    Bose Hearphones – ear piece strain relief

    A bit of the muck sticks out on both ends and I expect to replace the tape every now and again:

    Bose Hearphones - earpiece repairs - detail
    Bose Hearphones – earpiece repairs – detail

    I also expect to replace the non-replaceable lithium battery / cell in about a year, as they’re now barely adequate for a day’s use.

    Fortunately, I can’t see any of this hackery while I’m wearing the things:

    my face I don’t mind it,

    Because I’m behind it —

    ‘Tis the folks in the front that I jar.

    https://www.azquotes.com/quote/1243103

    [Update: Bose apparently had a QC failure on the silicone covering and, much to my surprise, swapped me entirely new Hearphones. The new covering feels slightly different, the USB cable hatch is a distinct piece of plastic, and maybe it’ll survive until the battery gives out. Color me satisfied! ]

  • Monthly Science: Weight

    Progress is our most important product:

    Weight Chart 2019-04 - Ed
    Weight Chart 2019-04 – Ed

    Now that we’ve begun bicycling more regularly, Winter Bloat is transmogrifying into thigh muscle.

    The hills around here become noticeably steeper during winter; we attribute the additional elevation to frost heaves …

  • Hiatus

    We’ll be tackling several long-delayed household projects during the next month. As a consequence, I won’t be doing my usual techie tinkering and will post shop notes only occasionally.

    There’s not much to say about scraping, priming, and repainting, other than that it’s an ugly job which must get done!

    Turkey on patio rail
    Turkey on patio rail

    If only we could train the turkeys to scrape the rail …

  • Fiskars Scissors: Preemptive Pivot Tightening

    A new-to-us Fiskars scissors arrived with a loose pivot of a type I’d never seen before:

    Fiskars scissors - pivot nut in place
    Fiskars scissors – pivot nut in place

    The nut fits into the slot in the upper blade, making the nut and screw turn together. Although there’s no torque between the two, the screw had no threadlock and, well, loosening happens.

    The pivot parts include a thin washer between the nut and the lower blade to reduce friction between the moving parts:

    Fiskars scissors - pivot parts
    Fiskars scissors – pivot parts

    With a dot of Loctite on the screw, it’s ready for reassembly:

    Fiskars scissors - pivot ready to assemble
    Fiskars scissors – pivot ready to assemble

    After which, a drop of oil made it sooo smooooth.

    That was easy …

  • Fluorescent Ballast Caps: FAIL

    After converting another fluorescent shoplight into an LED fixture, I tested its capacitors:

    Fluorescent ballast capacitors - one failed
    Fluorescent ballast capacitors – one failed

    The ESR02 reports one as a 4.8 µF capacitor, the other as a “defective part” with a 4 kΩ resistance. Having a cap fail by turning into a resistor is surprising; I’m more surprised it didn’t simply burn up.

    They’re visually indistinguishable, of course.