Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Pinning the top of Mary’s latest quilt used more than 1600 pins: three boxes of specialized quilting safety pins, plus straight quilting pins tucked into all the 3D printed / silicone filled caps. Less than a quarter of the quilt top fits on the table:
Quilt top with pins
Although Mary doesn’t need them right now, I made another batch of 100 caps for her next project:
Quilting pin caps – 4 x 25 – on platform
I tweaked the OpenSCAD source to build a 10×10 array:
Quilting Pin Cap – 10×10 array
But it turns out that a 5×5 array of caps, duplicated four times, works out better:
Quilting Pin Cap – 5×5 array
Slic3r takes far longer to process the larger array than to make four copies of the smaller array.
Half an hour later, they’re ready for silicone fill. In retrospect, natural PLA wasn’t a good choice for this job: there’s no way (for me) to take a picture of translucent silicone in crystalline PLA atop waxed paper on a white cutting board under fluorescent light…
On the upside, however, you can see exactly how far the pin goes into the cap:
Natural PLA provides a nice, crystalline appearance:
Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine – Cool white LEDs – rear no flash
Cool white LEDs have somewhat higher lumen/watt efficiency, but the real gain came from doubling the number of LEDs:
Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine – Cool white LEDs – front flash
I overvolted the warm white LEDs to 14 V to get closer to 20 mA/segment, but the cool white ones run pretty close to 20 mA at 12 V, so I didn’t bother.
Commercial versions of this hack secure the wiring with little white clips and foam tape, so I should conjure up something like that. Mary specifically did not want the lights affixed under the arm, though, so those things weren’t even in the running.
The OpenSCAD source code widens the mount and moves the wiring conduit a little bit, to simplify the connections to both strips, but is otherwise identical to the earlier version:
// LED Strip Lighting Brackets for Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - March 2014
Layout = "Build"; // Build Show Channels Strip
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.20;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2; // extra clearance
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
AlignPinOD = 1.70; // assembly alignment pins: filament dia
inch = 25.4;
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//----------------------
// Dimensions
Segment = [25.0,10.0,3.0]; // size of each LED segment
SEGLENGTH = 0;
SEGWIDTH = 1;
SEGHEIGHT = 2;
WireChannel = 3.0; // wire routing channel
StripHeight = 12.0; // sticky tape width
StripSides = 8*4;
DefaultLayout = [1,2,"Wire","NoWire"];
NUMSEGS = 0;
NUMSTRIPS = 1;
WIRELEFT = 2;
WIRERIGHT = 3;
EndCapSides = StripSides;
CapSpace = 2.0; // build spacing for endcaps
BuildSpace = 3.0; // spacing between objects on platform
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-- The negative space used to thread wires into the endcap
module MakeWireChannel(Layout = DefaultLayout,Which = "Left") {
EndCap = [(2*WireChannel + 1.0),Layout[NUMSTRIPS]*Segment[SEGWIDTH],StripHeight]; // radii of end cap spheroid
HalfSpace = EndCap[0] * ((Which == "Left") ? 1 : -1);
render(convexity=2)
translate([0,Segment[SEGWIDTH]/2,0])
intersection() {
union() {
cube([2*WireChannel,WireChannel,EndCap[2]],center=true);
translate([-2*EndCap[0],0,EndCap[2]/2])
rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
PolyCyl(WireChannel,4*EndCap[0],6);
}
translate([HalfSpace,0,(EndCap[2] - Protrusion)]) {
cube(2*EndCap,center=true);
}
}
}
//-- The whole strip, minus wiring channels
module MakeStrip(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
EndCap = [(2*WireChannel + 1.0),Layout[NUMSTRIPS]*Segment[SEGWIDTH],StripHeight]; // radii of end cap spheroid
BarLength = Layout[NUMSEGS] * Segment[SEGLENGTH]; // central bar length
hull()
difference() {
for (x = [-1,1]) // endcaps as spheroids
translate([x*BarLength/2,0,0])
resize(2*EndCap) rotate([0,90,0]) sphere(1.0,$fn=EndCapSides);
translate([0,0,-EndCap[2]])
cube([2*BarLength,3*EndCap[1],2*EndCap[2]],center=true);
translate([0,-EndCap[1],0])
cube([2*BarLength,2*EndCap[1],3*EndCap[2]],center=true);
}
}
//-- Cut wiring channels out of strip
module MakeMount(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
BarLength = Layout[NUMSEGS] * Segment[SEGLENGTH];
difference() {
MakeStrip(Layout);
if (Layout[WIRELEFT] == "Wire")
translate([BarLength/2,0,0])
MakeWireChannel(Layout,"Left");
if (Layout[WIRERIGHT] == "Wire")
translate([-BarLength/2,0,0])
MakeWireChannel(Layout,"Right");
}
}
//- Build it
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Channels") {
translate([ (2*WireChannel + 1.0),0,0]) MakeWireChannel(DefaultLayout,"Left");
translate([-(2*WireChannel + 1.0),0,0]) MakeWireChannel(DefaultLayout,"Right");
}
if (Layout == "Strip") {
MakeStrip(DefaultLayout);
}
if (Layout == "Show") {
MakeMount(DefaultLayout);
}
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([0,(3*Segment[SEGWIDTH]),0]) MakeMount([1,2,"Wire","Wire"]); // rear left side, vertical
translate([0,0,0]) MakeMount([5,2,"Wire","NoWire"]); // rear top, across arm
translate([0,-(3*Segment[SEGWIDTH]),0]) MakeMount([6,2,"NoWire","Wire"]); // front top, across arm
}
Quite a while ago, I rebuilt a gooseneck shop lamp with an LED floodlight module, the light from which appears in many pictures of the Sherline mill. That module has a sibling that I just combined with a defunct halogen desk lamp to produce a better task light for the bench; the original 12 VAC 50 W transformer now loafs along at 4 W and ballasts the lamp base against tipping.
My initial idea, of course, was a 3D printed adapter from the existing arm hardware to the LED module, but PLA gets droopy at normal high-intensity LED heatsink temperatures. That led to doodling a metal bracket around the LED module flange, which led to pondering how annoying that would be to make, which led to the discovery that the screws holding the LED plug to the heatsink were ordinary M2x0.4 Philips head, which suggested I could just screw a bracket to the back of the module, which brought a recently harvested aluminum heatsink to hand, which led to the discovery that the tip of the pivot screw fit perfectly between the fins, which …
Shortly thereafter, I milled off the central fins to fit the shaft of the pivot screw, introduced the heatsink to Mr. Disk Sander to bevel the bottom, sawed the threads off the pivot, press-fit the two together, drilled a 2 mm cross-hole into the pivot, buttered it all up with epoxy, jammed a short M2 screw into the cross hole, and let the whole mess cure:
Desk Lamp LED Adapter – top view
The lamp modules were a surplus find, with one pin clipped nearly flush to the insulator. I soldered a pair of the same male pins as in the battery holders, with the matching female pins as a crude connector. The unshrunk heatstink tubing isn’t lovely, but got us to First Light:
Desk Lamp LED Adapter – front view
The original counterweight is, of course, much too heavy for the dinky LED module, so I’ll drill the mounting hole for the vertical arm further back on the beam to get another foot of reach. That will require more wire between the transformer to the lamp, soooo the connectors might just become soldered joints.
As you can tell from the background, Mary snatched the lamp from my hands and put it to immediate use in The Quilting Room.
The original doodles bear no resemblance to the final product, but do have some key dimensions that (having discarded the unused hardware) I’ll likely never need again.
The pivot between the arm and the lamp housing, with an idea for the LED holder:
Desk Lamp Bracket Dimensions – doodle
Details of the repurposed heatsink and the pivot bolt, with a block that never got built:
Some trial fitting with the prototype showed that there’s no possible way to route the connections through the socket, no matter how much I wanted that to happen, so I rotated the body to align the LEDs with the socket pin slots:
Sears Lamp LED Adapter – Show view
The body now builds with the flat end down, so the overall finish should be better:
Sears Lamp LED Adapter – Build view
A test run shows why I really, really wanted cool white LEDs in the strips over the arm:
Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine – mixed LED lighting
The LED mount doesn’t have quite enough room inside the end cap for the holder to tilt as I wanted; the two 10 mm LEDs can be about 10 mm lower and slightly closer to the shaft driving the needle, which is what this rapid prototyping stuff is all about. Scrapping the existing lamp socket and (120 VAC!) wiring seems the best way to make this more useful.
Early reports on the arm LEDs indicate a requirement for more light, so the next iteration of those mounts will put two strips side-by-side…
I picked up a spare sewing machine as a crash test dummy for modifications to Mary’s Kenmore Model 158. It’s in reasonably good condition, although the bobbin case showed a bit of rust:
Kenmore bobbin case – rusted overview
Taking the tension spring off revealed more rust:
Kenmore bobbin case – rusted parts
An overnight soak in Evapo-Rust got rid of the corrosion and left the pits behind:
Kenmore bobbin case – restored parts
Those imperfections on the tension spring are pits, not bumps, despite their appearance.
It doesn’t seem so bad from the outside:
Kenmore bobbin case – restored
It probably won’t work nearly as well as it should, this being one place where a smooth surface counts for a lot. Fortunately, it’s just a crash test dummy machine and good results aren’t critical.
Solder pretty cable with silver plating on the braid (it’s probably mil-spec Teflon dielectric RG-174 coaxial cable) to the LEDs
Conjure a coax power connector and wall wart
Apply foam squares to mounts
Affix to sewing machine
The front LEDs have a jaunty angle along the bottom of the plastic panel:
Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine – LED Lights – front
You can see why I want cool-white LEDs, rather than these warm-white ones, to match the daylight from the window to the right. The wash of orange light from the incandescent bulb inside the end bell has got to go, too.
The rear LEDs over the arm may be slightly too close to the opening:
Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine – LED Lights – rear
The single-segment strip on the side provides a bit more light for the needle across the opening:
Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine – LED Lights – rear detail
Now, I’ll grant you that the strips of of black Gorilla Tape aren’t particularly attractive, but the intent here is to find out whether the LEDs produce enough light, don’t snag the quilt, and generally meet requirements.
Mary’s Sears Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine arm has a flat rear surface and a plastic plate on the front, so double-sided adhesive foam tape can hold a straight mount in place; we rejected putting strips under the arm to avoid snagging on the quilts as they pass by. So, with LEDs in hand, these are the mounts…
LED strip lights must have strain relief for their wires, as our Larval Engineer discovered the hard way on her longboard ground lighting project, and I wanted nice endcaps to avoid snagging on the fabric, so the general idea was a quarter-round rod with smooth endcaps and a hole to secure the wire. Some experiments showed that the acrylic (?) LED encapsulation directed the light downward, thus eliminating the need for a shade.
So, something like this will do for a first pass:
LED Strip Light Mount – bottom view
The overall dimensions for the LED mounts:
Length: N x 25 mm, plus endcap radii
Front-to-back width: 10 mm to allow for strip variation and 1 mm protection
Top-to-bottom height: 12 mm to fit double-sided foam sticky squares
Wire channels: 3 mm diameter or square cross-section
If there’s not enough light, I think a double-wide mount with two parallel LED strips would work.
After a bit of screwing around with additive endcaps that produced catastrophically non-manifold solid models, I figured out the proper subtractive way to build the mounts: the endcaps actually define the overall shape of the mount.
Start by placing a pair of spheroids, with radii matching the strip dimensions, so that their outer poles match the desired overall length:
Strip Light Mount – end cap spheroids – whole
The north/south poles must face outward, so that the equal-angle facets along the equators match up with what will become the mount body: rotate the spheroids 90° around the Y axis. The centers lie at the ends of the LED segments; the model shown here has a single 25 mm segment.
Then hack off three quadrants:
Strip Light Mount – end cap spheroids
That leaves two orange-segment shapes that define the endcaps:
Strip Light Mount – end caps – shaped
Here’s the key step that took me far too long to figure out. Shrinkwrapping the endcaps with the hull() function finesses the problem of matching the body facets to the endcap facets:
Strip Light Mount – end caps – hull
Model the wire channels as positive volumes that will be subtracted from the mount. The Channels layout shows both channels separated by a short distance:
Strip Light Mount – positive wire channels
The horizontal hexagons started as squares, but that looked hideous on the rounded endcaps.
Seen from the bottom, the mount starts like this:
Strip Light Mount – no wiring channels
Position and subtract a wire channel:
Strip Light Mount – visible wire channel
Which leaves the final solid model as a single, manifold object:
Strip Light Mount – complete
The module generating the mount takes three parameters: the number of LED segments and two string variables that determine whether to punch a channel in each endcap. Instantiate the module three times with suitable parameters to get a trio of LED mounts, all laid out for 3D printing:
Strip Light Mount – build layout
They built just exactly like those models would suggest; the M2 produces dependable results.
The OpenSCAD source code:
// LED Strip Lighting Brackets for Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - February 2014
Layout = "Strip"; // Build Show Channels Strip
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.20;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2; // extra clearance
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
AlignPinOD = 1.70; // assembly alignment pins: filament dia
inch = 25.4;
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//----------------------
// Dimensions
Segment = [25.0,10.0,3.0]; // size of each LED segment
WireChannel = 3.0; // wire routing channel
StripHeight = 12.0; // sticky tape width
StripSides = 8*4;
DefaultLayout = [1,"Wire","NoWire"];
EndCap = [(2*WireChannel + 1.0),Segment[1],StripHeight]; // radii of end cap spheroid
EndCapSides = StripSides;
CapSpace = 2.0; // build spacing for endcaps
BuildSpace = 1.5*Segment[1]; // spacing between objects on platform
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-- The negative space used to thread wires into the endcap
module MakeWireChannel(Which = "Left") {
HalfSpace = EndCap[0] * ((Which == "Left") ? 1 : -1);
render(convexity=2)
translate([0,EndCap[1]/3,0])
intersection() {
union() {
cube([2*WireChannel,WireChannel,EndCap[2]],center=true);
translate([-2*EndCap[0],0,EndCap[2]/2])
rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
PolyCyl(WireChannel,4*EndCap[0],6);
}
translate([HalfSpace,0,(EndCap[2] - Protrusion)]) {
cube(2*EndCap,center=true);
}
}
}
//-- The whole strip, minus wiring channels
module MakeStrip(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
BarLength = Layout[0] * Segment[0]; // central bar length
hull()
difference() {
for (x = [-1,1]) // endcaps as spheroids
translate([x*BarLength/2,0,0])
resize(2*EndCap) rotate([0,90,0]) sphere(1.0,$fn=EndCapSides);
translate([0,0,-EndCap[2]])
cube([2*BarLength,3*EndCap[1],2*EndCap[2]],center=true);
translate([0,-EndCap[1],0])
cube([2*BarLength,2*EndCap[1],3*EndCap[2]],center=true);
}
}
//-- Cut wiring channels out of strip
module MakeMount(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
BarLength = Layout[0] * Segment[0];
difference() {
MakeStrip(Layout);
if (Layout[1] == "Wire")
translate([BarLength/2,0,0])
MakeWireChannel("Left");
if (Layout[2] == "Wire")
translate([-BarLength/2,0,0])
MakeWireChannel("Right");
}
}
//- Build it
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Channels") {
translate([ EndCap[0],0,0]) MakeWireChannel("Left");
translate([-EndCap[0],0,0]) MakeWireChannel("Right");
}
if (Layout == "Strip") {
MakeStrip(DefaultLayout);
}
if (Layout == "Show") {
MakeMount(DefaultLayout);
}
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([0,BuildSpace,0]) MakeMount([1,"Wire","Wire"]); // rear left side, vertical
translate([0,0,0]) MakeMount([5,"Wire","NoWire"]); // rear top, across arm
translate([0,-BuildSpace,0]) MakeMount([6,"NoWire","Wire"]); // front top, across arm
}
The original design doodles, which bear a vague resemblance to the final mounts:
LED Strip Light Mounts – Original Design Sketches
The little snood coming out of the top would hide a wire going through a hole drilled in the capital-S of “Sears” on the front panel, but I came to my senses long before implementing that idea…