The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Felco C7 Cable Cutter: Spring Repair

    Felco C7 Cable Cutter: Spring Repair

    The back of the Pliers & Cutters drawer produced an ancient Felco C7 Cable Cutter minus its spring:

    Felco C7 cutter - missing spring pin
    Felco C7 cutter – missing spring pin

    That’s an M4 screw serving as a size test for the hole where the other pin used to be.

    Surprisingly, Felco still exists, still makes the C7 Cable Cutter, and actually sells a replacement spring as part number C7/10. Unfortunately, their online sales apparatus and cart seem broken: I put the spring in the cart, but found no way to pay for it. Worryingly, the usual Terms & Conditions link produced a modal dialog with one word: TEST.

    So I got a spring (part number 5/11, available only as a pair in kit 5/91) for a Felco C3 cutter (no, the numbers do not match) from Amazon. Later I found a sketchy seller offering a sketchy C7/10 spring that might fit correctly or could be total trash.

    Felco swaged the original spring pins into the handle, a manufacturing technique I certainly cannot duplicate, but an M3 screw will just barely fit inside a 4 mm stud, so I made some measurements:

    Felco replacement spring pin - dimension doodle
    Felco replacement spring pin – dimension doodle

    Fitting action to words:

    Felco C7 cutter - replacement spring pin
    Felco C7 cutter – replacement spring pin

    That started as a 1/4 inch rod of no particular provenance and is reasonably close to the actual dimensions.

    The spigot on the screw end is threaded M3 and is just barely shorter than the thickness of the handle, so the button-head screw can pull it snug:

    Felco C7 cutter - button screw
    Felco C7 cutter – button screw

    And then the spring just snapped into place:

    Felco C7 cutter - spring installed
    Felco C7 cutter – spring installed

    It it obviously grossly excessively too long, but that really doesn’t matter for the number of power-on hours it’s likely to see during my administration. In truth, it feels pretty good in the hand after releasing the latch and having it expand smoothly.

    If I ever run across a C7/10 spring, it’ll be an easy swap.

  • Tour Easy Front Fender Bracket Replacement

    Tour Easy Front Fender Bracket Replacement

    After nearly two and a half years, this happened:

    Tour Easy front fender bracket - fracture
    Tour Easy front fender bracket – fracture

    Yup, it broke just where I expected!

    The front fender on Mary’s bike suffers a bit more stress than you might expect, as she must wheel it through high grass to her Vassar Farms garden plot and the low-hanging spray flap can snag on the taller greenery.

    Re-slicing the original model, printing the result, and installing it took about an hour:

    Tour Easy front fender bracket - installed
    Tour Easy front fender bracket – installed

    Affixing the strut with duct tape and a cable tie looks déclassé, but continues to work better than anything else I’ve tried: simple, flexible, easily readjusted, totally nonfussy.

    At least I now use black outdoor-rated double-stick foam tape, so life is increasingly good …

  • Cordomatic 500P Disassembly

    Cordomatic 500P Disassembly

    A pair of antique collectible Cordomatic reels get occasional use in the Basement Laboratory:

    Cordomatic 500P reel - installed
    Cordomatic 500P reel – installed

    The extension cord reel didn’t latch reliably when needed, so …

    There’s an obvious screw on the other side and a non-obvious screw hidden in the obvious place:

    Cordomatic 500P reel - hidden screw
    Cordomatic 500P reel – hidden screw

    The electrical contacts were in good shape, although I smeared the grease around the rings just to make it seem like I did something:

    Cordomatic 500P reel - contacts
    Cordomatic 500P reel – contacts

    The ratchet pawls hide under a riveted cover:

    Cordomatic 500P reel - pawl cover
    Cordomatic 500P reel – pawl cover

    The duct tape shows I’d been in there once before, likely for the same problem, and had already drilled out the rivets.

    Alas, I forgot to take a picture after removing the cover, but the general idea is to put just a dot of oil on the pivots (which, as you’d expect, are the rivets), wiggle everything around, and reassemble in reverse order.

    It’ll surely work long enough that I can forget I was in there twice before …

  • Tour Easy: Another Rear Fender Bracket

    Tour Easy: Another Rear Fender Bracket

    All the work on Mary’s bike reminded me of the rear fender bracket I meant to install on mine, with more clearance for the strut stabilizing the under-seat packs:

    Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket - long setback - solid model - show
    Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket – long setback – solid model – show

    Rather than glue a PETG filament snippet into a screw, I turned a little Delrin plug:

    Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket - screw insert
    Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket – screw insert

    It’s ready for installation when I’m willing to put the bike up on the rack and pull the rear wheel:

    Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket - screw detail
    Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket – screw detail

    That’s actually the second iteration for the screw, as the first suffered a lethal encounter with the Greater Shopvac. I know exactly where it is, but I’m not going there …

  • M2 Nozzle Clog: FOD

    M2 Nozzle Clog: FOD

    This happened while switching from natural to black PETG:

    M2 nozzle clog - exterior
    M2 nozzle clog – exterior

    A closer look:

    M2 nozzle clog - exterior detail
    M2 nozzle clog – exterior detail

    Those pix happened after trying to extract whatever-it-is with tweezers, so it’s definitely something with a higher melting point than PETG.

    Removing the (warm) nozzle with the block held in a vise reveals a tuft of something:

    M2 nozzle clog - interior
    M2 nozzle clog – interior

    The tuft accumulated several turns while unthreading the nozzle from the hot end.

    Heating the nozzle a bit more released the tuft:

    M2 nozzle clog - extracted tuft
    M2 nozzle clog – extracted tuft

    The black-to-clear transition tailing off at the bottom came from the PETG around the tuft in the cone-shaped end of the nozzle above the aperture. The 100 mil squares suggest the tuft was a distinct entity, rather than a collection of threads, and might have been over 5 mm long.

    Perhaps a fragment of PTFE or another high-melting-point plastic?

    Reassemble in reverse order, reset the nozzle to Z=0 on the platform, and it’s all good.

  • Miniblind Mounting Brackets: Version 4

    Miniblind Mounting Brackets: Version 4

    Miniblinds don’t last forever:

    Miniblind failure
    Miniblind failure

    The plastic frame failed at the pull cord opening, obviously a weak and, alas, non-repairable point.

    A quick trip to Lowe’s produced a new miniblind with mounting hardware completely different from the old one. This came as no surprise, as every new miniblind differs from all previous ones; miniblind mounting hardware is not strongly conserved.

    The broken frame fit into the plastic end caps mounted just beyond the scarred paint marking the bracket location required for the previous miniblind:

    Miniblind bracket - V3
    Miniblind bracket – V3

    Note that the caps mount with a single screw in the homebrew bracket’s face, which has two holes to match the previous-previous cap.

    Also note how the curved moulding strips around the 1955-era windows in this house do not fit any contemporary miniblind hardware, thus requiring Quality Shop Time with every installation.

    Although the shiny new hardware had two slots, they neither lined up with the existing bracket holes nor extended quite far enough vertically. I lined things up, marked and drilled a single midline hole in both the new hardware and the old bracket, and reused the old screw and nut:

    Miniblind bracket - V4 side
    Miniblind bracket – V4 side

    Moving the bracket back to its previous-previous location exposed the scarred paint under the previous position:

    Miniblind bracket - V4 front
    Miniblind bracket – V4 front

    Fortunately, it’s hidden by the installed miniblind.

    That was, all things considered, easy …

  • Sherline Tooling Plate Re-Alignment

    Sherline Tooling Plate Re-Alignment

    Engraving a 0.2 mm deep hairline in a Tek Circuit Computer cursor showed the fixture had a bit of a tilt:

    Hairline V tool - 0.2 0.3 0.4 DOC 10K RPM - water cool mid
    Hairline V tool – 0.2 0.3 0.4 DOC 10K RPM – water cool mid

    The bottom blue hairline started with a good cut and ended with the V tool skating along the surface without cutting. The raggedy red one just above it is what happens when you (well, I) try engraving a hairline through Kapton tape without coolant; just don’t do that thing.

    The 3D printed fixture holding the cursor came from a neurotically aligned Makergear M2 and the tooling plate has never had much attention to its alignment, so I figured the tilt probably came from crud between the tooling plate and the Sherline’s X axis table, with the printed fixture contributing zilch to the problem.

    Which turned out to be the case. Scraping a few flakes from the bottom of the plate and top of the table, dissolving old crud with water + alcohol, and passing a file over both surfaces definitely made a difference. I converted a sheet of 0.1 mm laminating plastic film into a pad by punching holes for the T-nuts:

    Sherline tooling plate pad
    Sherline tooling plate pad

    Snugging the tooling plate down produced perfect alignment along the length of three 0.3 mm deep hairlines:

    Hairline V tool tests - 0.3 mm 10 kRPM 24 ipm
    Hairline V tool tests – 0.3 mm 10 kRPM 24 ipm

    That was surprisingly easy …