ShopVac Repairs

A stainless steel 10 gallon (*) 5 Peak HP (**) ShopVac followed me home from the side of the road. It seemed to be in easily repairable condition and looks like a definite improvement for my collection.

One handle had a broken screw boss, probably from the same event producing the crack across the top, over on the right:

ShopVac - broken screw boss
ShopVac – broken screw boss

The self-tapping screw (taken from the other end of the handle) looked to be about #10, so I melted a 10-32 brass insert into roughly the right position with a soldering gun:

ShopVac - brass insert in handle boss
ShopVac – brass insert in handle boss

An aluminum sheet bandsawed into shape will reinforce the crack, with a generous dollop of hot melt glue holding everything in place:

ShopVac - repaired handle - bottom view
ShopVac – repaired handle – bottom view

I don’t plan to carry it around by the handle, so perhaps it’ll outlast your expectations.

From the top, it looks pretty much the way it should:

ShopVac - repaired handle - installed
ShopVac – repaired handle – installed

The front caster mount lost both of the 1/4-20 bolts previously holding it to the canister, so I installed a pair of nice stainless steel bolts and nyloc nuts:

ShopVac - new front foot bolts
ShopVac – new front foot bolts

The motor runs fine, a new bag & filter arrived the next day, and it’s all good.

Disclaimers from ShopVac’s Fine Print section:

* Tank capacity refers to actual tank volume, and does not reflect capacity available during operation.

** “Peak Horsepower” (PHP) is a term used in the wet-dry vacuum industry for consumer comparison purposes. It does not denote the operational horsepower of a wet-dry vacuum but rather the horsepower output of a motor, including the motor’s inertial contribution, achieved in laboratory testing. In actual use, Shop-Vac® motors do not operate at the peak horsepower shown.

https://www.shopvac.com/

Translation: they lie.

3 thoughts on “ShopVac Repairs

  1. Nice work! What prompted you to choose hot melt adhesive rather than epoxy?

    1. My thoughts is that Hot Melt sets much quicker when it cools down. I have used Hot Melt many times when gap filling or a buildup is needed.

    2. This brown glue adheres to flexible plastic better than epoxy, because it’s slightly bendy, and cools so fast I can lay up mounds of it to hold things together. It’s allegedly “furniture grade” (which I obvious misuse), comes from my battered high-temperature glue gun, and is my go-to adhesive for botch jobs like this.

      But I still loves me some good JB Weld action …

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