The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: M2

Using and tweaking a Makergear M2 3D printer

  • Dummy 9 mm Luger Cartridge

    An interesting project requires a handful of 9 mm Luger (aka 9 mm NATO) dummy cartridges with real brass. You can buy exact form / fit / weight dummies or plastic training rounds, but these will suit my simple needs:

    Dummy 9 mm Luger cartridges
    Dummy 9 mm Luger cartridges

    That’s a snap cap on the left and a real 9 mm Luger cartridge on the right. The holes in the dummy brass indicate that they are absolutely, positively, unquestionably not loaded cartridges.

    Start by drilling a 1/8 inch hole in the side of each unfired, primerless case:

    Dummy 9 mm Luger - drilling case
    Dummy 9 mm Luger – drilling case

    I set up the chuck on the rotary table, thinking I might drill three holes in each cartridge, but came to my senses. It’s lined up by eye, flush with the end of the jaws, and the hole is just above the inside of the base.

    The solid model has the same overall length and proportion as a 115 grain FMJ bullet, but doesn’t match the proper ogive or base diameter. Basically, I stretched a 9 mm sphere and stuck it atop a slightly tapered base cylinder:

    Dummy 9 mm Luger bullet - solid model
    Dummy 9 mm Luger bullet – solid model

    For reasons I don’t profess to understand, the sphere has a slightly different diameter at its equator than the top of the cylinder, even though they’re both the same BulletOD diameter with the same number of faces. Fortunately, that didn’t affect the final results.

    Print up a handful of the things:

    Dummy 9 mm Luger bullets - on platform
    Dummy 9 mm Luger bullets – on platform

    The shadow from the flash makes the bases look slightly fatter than they really are.

    Using a thinner layer would look better in this orientation. They’d definitely look better if they were split, printed with the long axis parallel to the plate, and glued together, as the grain would run lengthwise; I’m not sure there’s enough room for alignment pins, though.

    At this diameter and number of faces, the M2 produces almost perfectly accurate dimensions, so the bullets press-fit just like you’d expect. They’re twisted into a dab of urethane glue inside the brass that foams just enough to hold them place.

    Rather than use a real seating die, I deployed a closed chuck on the drill press. The trick is to set the depth stop to produce slightly too-long cartridges, then shim the platform without changing the stop and seat the bullet to the proper depth:

    Dummy 9 mm Luger - seating bullet
    Dummy 9 mm Luger – seating bullet

    The OAL tolerance for various 9 mm Luger cartridges seems to range from 1.08 inch to 1.17 inch, so anything in that range should be fine. I used 1.10 inch.

    These are not intended for firing. You could fire them with just a primer (in a non-drilled case) and (maybe) not melt or shatter the plastic, but they’re slightly larger than the nominal 8.82 mm land diameter and won’t obturate or spin-stabilize worth diddly: expect short range and keyholing.

    The sectional density is a whopping 0.008, should you keep track of such things: 0.47 gram = 7.2 grain. Note that the US small arms definition of sectional density has units of pound/inch2, not the pound/foot2 you’ll find right next to values computed using inches; the magic number 1/7000 just converts from grains to pounds. In the rest of the (metric) world, it’s entirely different.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Dummy 9mm Luger bullet
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2013
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    BulletOD = 9.05;			// main diameter
    BulletBaseOD = 8.8;			//  ... easy insertion
    
    BulletOAL = 14.0;			// overall length
    BaseLength = 8.0;			// cylindrical base length
    
    NoseLength = BulletOAL - BaseLength;
    
    NumSides = 8*4;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    color("Orange")
    cylinder(r1=BulletBaseOD/2,r2=BulletOD/2,h=BaseLength,$fn=NumSides);
    
    color("DarkOrange")
    translate([0,0,BaseLength])
    	resize([0,0,2*NoseLength])
    		sphere(BulletOD/2,$fn=NumSides);
    
  • HP Scope Probe Flange Repair

    Quite some time ago I manage to break the finger flange on one of my scope probes and, what with it being made of an un-glueable engineering plastic, a simple repair job failed quickly. It’s entirely round and a perfect lathe project, but … this is easier:

    HP Scope Probe Flange Repair
    HP Scope Probe Flange Repair

    You can see remnants of that failed repair just below the fracture:

    HP scope probe flanges - repair disk
    HP scope probe flanges – repair disk

    Some epoxy around the rim of the flange, plus filling the missing sector, looks about as grubby as you’d expect:

    HP Scope Probes - rear
    HP Scope Probes – rear

    That’s a tiny zit at about 1 o’clock which came off with fingernail pressure.

    From the business end, it actually looks pretty snappy:

    HP Scope Probes - front
    HP Scope Probes – front

    I’m mildly tempted to preemptively reinforce the other probes…

    The OpenSCAD source code joins two parts with coincident faces, but it worked out OK for once:

    // Tek Scope Probe Flange
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2013
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    FlangeOD = 16.0;
    FlangeID = 8.75;
    FlangeThick = IntegerMultiple(1.25,ThreadThick);
    
    DiskOD = FlangeOD + 4*ThreadWidth;
    DiskThick = FlangeThick + 4*ThreadThick;
    
    NumSides = 8*4;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    			translate([0,0,2*ThreadThick])
    				cylinder(r=DiskOD/2,h=DiskThick,$fn=NumSides);			// main repair part
    			cylinder(r1=(DiskOD - 2*ThreadWidth)/2,r2=DiskOD/2,h=2*ThreadThick,$fn=NumSides);
    		}
    		translate([0,0,(DiskThick - FlangeThick)])				// flange clearance
    			PolyCyl(FlangeOD,2*FlangeThick,NumSides);
    		translate([0,0,-DiskThick/2])
    			PolyCyl(FlangeID,2*DiskThick,NumSides);
    	}
    
  • Improved Alignment Pin Hole for Split 3D Prints

    I’ve been working on an object (more on this later) that requires precise alignment of two parts that capture a nut deep inside. This calls for alignment pins, similar to the ones I used for, say, the Triple-Cylinder Thing:

    Cylinder Thing - rotated
    Cylinder Thing – rotated

    The general idea is to design holes that fit the pins, then locate them at the parting line of the model, where they’re subtracted from the solid and appear in exactly the proper places when the model splits for printing:

    Cylinder Thing - alignment pegs
    Cylinder Thing – alignment pegs

    You slather solvent glue on both halves, jam pins into the holes, slap the parts together, and clamp until cured. Works fine, I use pins all over the place.

    The gotcha of using just a (polygonal) cylinder as the hole: if you glue one end of the pin at a time, a small rim of dissolved plastic may form around the pin at the surface. That can bond the two halves together or prevent them from joining properly after being disassembled.

    Sooo, here’s a new alignment pin hole with a gutter around the pin on both surfaces to capture the glop:

    Alignment pin hole - overview
    Alignment pin hole – overview

    Remember, that’s the negative volume that will hold the pin, not the pin itself!

    Here’s how it works in real plastic, with a 1.75 mm peg glued into one hole with a bit of crud in the gutter:

    Alignment Hole and Pin
    Alignment Hole and Pin

    The secret to making the gutter work: offset the second layer by half the thread width, so that it’s reasonably well supported on the first layer. If you don’t do that, the inner layers simply drop down through the hole and fill the gutter. Even doing that, notice the distortion of the first few layers inside the hole.

    The OpenSCAD source code looks about like you’d expect:

    //-- Locating pin hole with glue recess
    
    module LocatingPin(Dia=PinOD,Len=5.00) {
    
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((Dia + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    
    	translate([0,0,-2*ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((Dia + 1*ThreadWidth),4*ThreadThick,4);
    
    	translate([0,0,-(Len/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(Dia,(Len + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    }
    

    Ideally, the pin length should extend at least two diameters into each side of the object, but you can feed in whatever you need to make it come out right.

    The PolyCyl() routine produces a low-vertex-count polygon that circumscribes the nominal diameter, which is what you need for vertical holes in 3D printed objects:

    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    

    Tip o’ the cycling helmet to nophead for figuring out the polyhole idea and explaining why they’re needed…

  • Broom Handle Screw With Dedendum: Effect of Printing Orientation

    Although the current OpenSCAD could produce a solid model with the screw thread’s dedendum, I’d never actually printed one of them:

    Broom Handle Screw - full thread - solid model
    Broom Handle Screw – full thread – solid model

    I need some fondlestuff illustrating how to handle overhangs, so I ran one standing vertically, which (pretty much as I expected) didn’t work well at all:

    Broom Handle Screw - dedendum - vertical
    Broom Handle Screw – dedendum – vertical

    The trick is to split the model down the middle:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal top
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal top

    And put holes in each half for alignment pins:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal bottom
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal bottom

    Then you can print it lying down:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal - as-printed top
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal – as-printed top

    The internal overhang would probably call for some support material, particularly in the square recess at the end, but in this case it’s a lesson:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal - as-printed bottom
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal – as-printed bottom

    Glue some filament snippets into the holes, snap it together, and it looks just fine over there on the right:

    Broom Handle Screw - orientation comparison
    Broom Handle Screw – orientation comparison

    Doesn’t matter how many I print, it still doesn’t make any economic sense as a broom repair…

    The OpenSCAD source code now has a Layout variable to control the orientation and, not as shown in the model, the alignment pins have glue gutters in the first layer:

    // Broom Handle Screw End Plug
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU October 2013
    
    Layout = "Horizontal";		// Vertical Horizontal Pin
    
    UseDedendum = true;			// true to create full thread form
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    PostOD = 22.3;				// post inside metal handle
    PostLength = 25.0;
    
    FlangeOD = 24.0;			// stop flange
    FlangeLength = 3.0;
    
    PitchDia = 15.5;			// thread center diameter
    ScrewLength = 20.0;
    
    ThreadFormOD = 2.5;			// diameter of thread form
    ThreadPitch = 5.0;
    NumSegments = 32;			//  .. number of cylinder approximations per turn
    
    BoltOD = 7.0;				// clears 1/4-20 bolt
    BoltSquare = 6.5;			// across flats
    BoltHeadThick = 3.0;
    
    RecessDia = 6.0;			// recesss to secure post in handle
    
    OALength = PostLength + FlangeLength + ScrewLength;
    
    SplitOC = 1.25*FlangeOD;	// separation in Horizontal layout
    PinOD = 1.75;				// alignment pin diameter = filament stub
    PinLength = 7.0;			//  ... length
    
    $fn=8*4;					// default cylinder sides
    
    echo("Pitch dia: ",PitchDia);
    echo("Root dia: ",PitchDia - ThreadFormOD);
    echo("Crest dia: ",PitchDia + ThreadFormOD);
    
    Pi = 3.14159265358979;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    // Wrap cylindrical thread segments around larger plug cylinder
    
    module CylinderThread(Pitch,Length,PitchDia,ThreadOD,PerTurn) {
    
    CylFudge = 1.02;				// force overlap
    
        RotIncr = 1/PerTurn;
        PitchRad = PitchDia/2;
    
        Turns = Length/Pitch;
        NumCyls = Turns*PerTurn;
    
        ZStep = Pitch / PerTurn;
    
        HelixAngle = atan(Pitch/(Pi*PitchDia));
        CylLength = CylFudge * (Pi*(PitchDia + ThreadOD) / PerTurn) / cos(HelixAngle);
    
    	for (i = [0:NumCyls-1]) {
    		assign(Angle = 360*i/PerTurn)
    			translate([PitchRad*cos(Angle),PitchRad*sin(Angle),i*ZStep])
    				rotate([90+HelixAngle,0,Angle])
    					cylinder(r1=ThreadOD/2,
    							r2=ThreadOD/(2*CylFudge),
    							h=CylLength,
    							center=true,$fn=12);
    	}
    }
    
    // Build complete plug
    
    module ScrewPlug() {
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    			cylinder(r=PostOD/2,h=PostLength);
    			cylinder(r=PitchDia/2,h=OALength);
    			translate([0,0,PostLength])
    				cylinder(r=FlangeOD/2,h=FlangeLength);
    			color("Orange")
    			translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength)])
    				CylinderThread(ThreadPitch,(ScrewLength - ThreadFormOD/2),PitchDia,ThreadFormOD,NumSegments);
    		}
    
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    			PolyCyl(BoltOD,(OALength + 2*Protrusion),6);
    
    		translate([0,0,(OALength - BoltHeadThick)])
    			PolyCyl(BoltSquare,(BoltHeadThick + Protrusion),4);
    
    		if (UseDedendum)
    			translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength + ThreadFormOD/2 - ThreadPitch/(2*NumSegments))])
    				rotate(-90 - 360/(2*NumSegments))
    				CylinderThread(ThreadPitch,ScrewLength,PitchDia,ThreadFormOD,NumSegments);
    
    		for (i = [0:90:270]) {
    			rotate(45 + i)					// 45 works better with Horizontal layout
    				translate([PostOD/2,0,PostLength/2])
    					sphere(r=RecessDia/2,$fn=8);
    		}
    	}
    }
    
    // Locating pin hole with glue recess
    
    module LocatingPin() {
    
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((PinOD + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    	translate([0,0,-(PinLength/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(PinOD,(PinLength + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    
    }
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Vertical")
    	ScrewPlug();
    
    if (Layout == "Pin")
    	LocatingPin();
    
    if (Layout == "Horizontal")
    	for (i=[-1,1])
    		difference() {
    			translate([i*SplitOC/2,PostLength/2,0])
    				rotate([90,180*(i + 1)/2,0])
    					ScrewPlug();
    
    			translate([0,0,-FlangeOD/2])
    				cube([2*OALength,2*OALength,FlangeOD],center=true);
    
    			for (j=[-1,1], pin=[-1,1])
    				assign(PinX = i*SplitOC/2 + pin*(PostOD + BoltOD)/4,
    					   PinY = j*PostLength/4) {
    					translate([PinX,PinY,0])
    						rotate(45)
    							LocatingPin();
    					echo("i j pin: ",i,j,pin);
    					echo("X Y: ",PinX,PinY);
    				}
    		}
    
  • Plant Stand Feet

    The houseplants have migrated indoors after spending a summer charging up in the sun on the patio, which means it’s time to replace the silicone rubber feet on the bottom of the plant shelves. This year, I printed a set of feet to fit the hex-head adjustable feet:

    Plant Stand Foot - installed
    Plant Stand Foot – installed

    The pencil-stem plant on the left, for whatever it’s worth, is a perfectly healthy Rhipsalis that greatly enjoyed the summer sun.

    The feet print upside-down to give the surface around the hex a smooth finish. I used Slic3r’s Hilbert Curve for pattern a bit more interesting than the usual parallel lines:

    Plant Shelf Foot - as built
    Plant Shelf Foot – as built

    The Hilbert curve doesn’t fit neatly into a non-rectangular shape, but it’s close enough.

    The solid model includes the support structure:

    Plant Shelf Foot - solid model - bottom
    Plant Shelf Foot – solid model – bottom

    Which pops out cleanly:

    Plant Shelf Foot - support material detail
    Plant Shelf Foot – support material detail

    Yes, that’s a shred of red filament embedded on the left side. Cleanliness is next to impossible…

    The fuzzy felt feet come from a 6 mm thick slab of the stuff:

    Plant Shelf Foot - cutting felt plugs
    Plant Shelf Foot – cutting felt plugs

    The round socket wall leaves about 2 mm of felt showing at the bottom; it’s not very compressible and that should suffice to keep the plastic off the table.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Feet for a wire-shelf plant stand
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU October 2013
    
    Layout = "Build";			// Show Build
    
    Support = true;
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    StandFootOD = 18.0;			// hex across flats
    StandFootDepth = 5.0;		//  ... socket depth
    
    FeltPadOD = 25.0;			// felt foot diameter
    FeltPadDepth = 4.0;			//  ... depth
    
    FootBaseThick = 6*ThreadThick;	// between foot and pad
    FootWall = 4*ThreadWidth;		// around exterior
    
    FootOD = 2*FootWall + max(StandFootOD,FeltPadOD);
    echo(str("Foot OD: ",FootOD));
    
    FootTall = StandFootDepth + FootBaseThick + FeltPadDepth;
    echo(str(" ... height: "),FootTall);
    
    NumSides = 8*4;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module FootPad() {
    
    	difference() {
    
    		cylinder(r=FootOD/2,h=FootTall,$fn=NumSides);
    
    		translate([0,0,FeltPadDepth + FootBaseThick])
    			PolyCyl(StandFootOD,2*StandFootDepth,6);
    
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    			PolyCyl(FeltPadOD,(FeltPadDepth + Protrusion),NumSides);
    
    	}
    }
    
    // Locating pin hole with glue recess
    
    module LocatingPin() {
    
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((PinOD + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    	translate([0,0,-(PinLength/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(PinOD,(PinLength + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    
    }
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show")
    	FootPad();
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([0,0,FootTall])
    		rotate([180,0,0])
    			FootPad();
    	if (Support)
    		color("Yellow")
    			for (Seg=[0:5]) {
    				rotate(30 + 360*Seg/6)
    				translate([0,0,(StandFootDepth - ThreadThick)/2])
    					cube([(StandFootOD - 3*ThreadWidth),
    						  2*ThreadWidth,
    						  (StandFootDepth - ThreadThick)],
    						  center=true);
    				}
    }
    
  • Makergear M2: Re-Relocated Z-min Platform Height Switch

    A few trips with the M2 convinced me that the cable to the relocated Z-min switch along the front of the X gantry needed a clip on each end and should not run under the gantry. This time I used the full width of the steel strap and bashed a neater curve around a length of drill rod:

    M2 Z-min Cable Clip - forming
    M2 Z-min Cable Clip – forming

    The new clips look a bit better with straight edges:

    M2 Z-min Cable Clips - old vs new
    M2 Z-min Cable Clips – old vs new

    The top view shows the new clips and cable location:

    M2 Z-min Switch - top view
    M2 Z-min Switch – top view

    While I was at it, I trimmed the edges off the switch mounting block. Rather than figure out the trig required to hack off the corners, I applied linear_extrude() to a polygon() defined by some obvious points, then poked the same holes in the block:

    Z-min Front Mount Switch Block - chamfer - solid model
    Z-min Front Mount Switch Block – chamfer – solid model

    It pretty much vanishes in the top view, but here’s a view from the +Y end of the platform:

    M2 Z-min Switch - bottom view
    M2 Z-min Switch – bottom view

    Despite all that maneuvering, the G92 Z-4.55 touchoff value remained the same!

    If you’ve forgotten why all this makes sense, it’s a first pass at detecting the actual build platform position. The stock M2 uses that switch to detect the top of a screw attached to the Z-axis stage, which means it can’t sense the actual platform. The Z-min switch I added to the Thing-O-Matic convinced me that was the only way to fly; given the TOM’s plywood-and-acrylic frame, it was essentially mandatory.

    Mounting the switch on the extruder would allow probing the entire platform, which would allow on-the-fly correction for both average height and (non-)flatness, but that’s a whole ‘nother project.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Block to mount M2 Z-min switch on X gantry
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - Oct 2013
    
    //- Extrusion parameters - must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    //- Sizes
    
    SwitchLength = 20.0;					// switch size across front of block
    
    SwitchScrewOD = 2.05;					// microswitch screw tapping
    SwitchScrewOC = 9.5;					//  ... on-center spacing
    
    GantryScrewOD = 3.0;					// X rail screw clearance
    GantryScrewOC = 25.0;					//  ... on-center spacing along X
    GantryScrewOffset = 12.0;				//  ... Y offset from gantry front
    
    BlockSize = [1.5*GantryScrewOC,17.0,5.0];			// XYZ dimensions as mounted
    HalfBlock = BlockSize/2;
    
    SwitchScrewLength = BlockSize[1] - 5*ThreadWidth;	// net length of switch screws
    echo("Max switch screw length: ",SwitchScrewLength + 5.0);		// ... allow switch thickness
    
    ChamferAngle = atan((BlockSize[0] - SwitchLength)/(BlockSize[1]/2));
    echo("Chamfer Angle: ",ChamferAngle);
    
    //- Adjust hole diameter to make the size come out right
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    //- Put peg grid on build surface
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //- Define basic block shape
    
    module BaseBlock() {
    	translate([0,-GantryScrewOffset,0])
    		linear_extrude(height=BlockSize[2])
    		polygon(points=[[-HalfBlock[0],BlockSize[1]],
    						[HalfBlock[0],BlockSize[1]],
    						[HalfBlock[0],HalfBlock[1]],
    						[SwitchLength/2,0],
    						[-SwitchLength/2,0],
    						[-HalfBlock[0],HalfBlock[1]]
    						]);
    }
    
    //- Build it
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    difference() {
    	BaseBlock();
    	for (i=[-1,1]) {
    		translate([i*GantryScrewOC/2,0,-Protrusion])
    			rotate(-90)
    				PolyCyl(GantryScrewOD,(BlockSize[2] + 2*Protrusion));
    		translate([i*SwitchScrewOC/2,-(GantryScrewOffset + Protrusion),BlockSize[2]/2])
    			rotate([-90,0,0])
    				rotate(90)
    					PolyCyl(SwitchScrewOD,(SwitchScrewLength + Protrusion));
    	}
    }
    
  • Makergear M2 Filament Guide Tube: Bigger Is Better

    The whole point of the new guide tube block is to see if a larger ID tube will reduce the force required to pull the filament through it; long after Dan suggested simply using a larger tube, I got around to picking up a lifetime supply of 1/4 inch OD polyethylene tubing: 25 feet for $3. The ID is about 0.17 inch = 4.3 mm, large enough to let the 1.75 mm filament move smoothly, and the inside clearance provides a few millimeters of free motion so that retraction moves don’t require pushing the guide tube around.

    The new filament guide + wire cover anchors the spool end of the tube:

    M2 Larger Filament Guide - overview
    M2 Larger Filament Guide – overview

    On the other end, I blobbed a piece of 1/4 inch ID tubing to anchor the guide tube. It’s nicer than the twist of cardboard I used before, but nothing to get excited about:

    M2 Extruder - nested filament guide tubes
    M2 Extruder – nested filament guide tubes

    There exists a printed tubing anchor that attaches to the bolt that adjusts the force pressing the filament against the drive gear, but:

    • It’s just an STL model
    • That fits the original guide tube
    • So I’d have to reverse engineer it
    • And I don’t want to fiddle with the extruder

    This will suffice for a while.

    As I hoped, the larger guide tube reduces the force required to pull the filament into the extruder under 1 pound. Most of that force comes from persuading the filament spool to drag-rotate around the plastic support arm, so some simple improvements should help there, as well. I foresee some bearings in its future.

    Fine tuning of the tubing length is also in order, but that’ll require more printing sessions.