The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Science

If you measure something often enough, it becomes science

  • Laser Cutter: Low Power Vectors vs. CD-Rs

    Laser Cutter: Low Power Vectors vs. CD-Rs

    Wrecking scrap discs led to experimenting with the low-power behavior of my nominal 60 W CO₂ laser. I used the same inset version of the Mariner’s Compass quilting pattern as before:

    Mariners Compass - stacked insets - LB layout
    Mariners Compass – stacked insets – LB layout

    The KT332N controller is set to a 7% minimum power, as the tube simply doesn’t fire below that level. The power levels shown below are the minimum and maximum for the layer.

    The cuts are on CD-R discs with the same general appearance, although I can’t say whether they all came from the same manufacturing lot. All of the cuts are on the clear side of the disc, with the data side flat against the platform. Unless otherwise noted, the pictures are from the clear side, looking down into the trenches carved into the surface, and you can see reflections of the cuts in the aluminized data layer.

    Power 7 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7-10pct

    Because the controller uses the minimum power at lower speeds, the laser fails to fire near the corners of the pattern.

    Power 8 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 8-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 8-10pct

    The patterns generally begin in their upper-right corner where the laser has little enough power to prevent melting. However, the tube now continues firing as the laser slows for two other corners and melts a gouge into the surface.

    Power 7.5 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-10pct

    The gouges are less prominent, but not by much.

    Power 7.1 to 10%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.1-10pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-10pct

    Reducing the minimum power to just over the 7% absolute minimum reduces the size of (most of) the blobs, but also causes gaps in some of the lines and at the corners.

    Power 7.1 to 7.5%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.1-7.5pct start
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-7.5pct start

    Reducing the maximum power causes the tube to not fire at all for some vectors; it doesn’t fire at all with the maximum power set to 7.1%.

    However, the firing is very sensitive to the tube temperature, as that picture is for the first pattern around the disc rim with the cooling water temperature at 20.5 °C.

    The last pattern (which is just to the right of the first) looks much better with the coolant at 20.7 °C:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.1-7.5pct end
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-7.5pct end

    It’s still not complete, but you can see the tube power has increased enough to melt blobs into the surface similar to those at higher maximum powers.

    Power 7.5 to 8%:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-8pct
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct

    Although the tube now fires continuously throughout the pattern, you can see thinner sections in the longer vectors over on the left.

    All of the pictures above are using assist air at 12 l/min, so there’s a stiff breeze blowing the smoke away from the laser beam. Turning the assist air off reduces the flow to 2 l/min and produces a much larger cloud of fumes over the surface that seems to deposit more crud around the vectors:

    CD-R vector cut - 2l-min assist air
    CD-R vector cut – 2l-min assist air

    The small MDF stops jammed in the honeycomb platform let me put all the CD-Rs at the same spot and reuse the same pattern with slight power variations and no realignment. It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty good.

    Power 7.5 to 8%, 2 l/min assist air:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-8pct low air
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct low air

    Notice the smudges to the left of center.

    Cleaning the surface with a soft cloth and a vigorous circular motion improves the result:

    CD-R vector cut - clear side - 7.5-8pct low air cleaned
    CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct low air cleaned

    If you’re being fussy about cleanliness, you might avoid scratching the otherwise pristine surface.

    I also burned the data side of a disc to wreck the lacquer and aluminized layer, rather than just the clear polycarbonate.

    Power 7.5 to 8% on data side, as seen from the data side:

    CD-R vector cut - data side - 7.5-8pct data side
    CD-R vector cut – data side – 7.5-8pct data side

    The same pattern on the same disc, seen from the clear side:

    CD-R vector cut - data side - 7.5-8pct clear side
    CD-R vector cut – data side – 7.5-8pct clear side

    Burning through the lacquer and aluminum produces a narrower trench and slightly smaller blobs at the junctions.

    Running near the tube’s minimum power produces unpredictable results, because the tube temperature matters. Variations of a few tenths of a degree can prevent the tube from firing, either intermittently or completely, so keeping the minimum layer power well above the minimum tube power is a Good Idea™ unless you can afford considerable scrap.

    It’s a slow way to wreck discs, but a nice way to produce suncatching coasters:

    Mariners Compass Coaster - CD data side finished
    Mariners Compass Coaster – CD data side finished
  • Laser Cut Plywood: Flame vs. Assist Air Flow

    Laser Cut Plywood: Flame vs. Assist Air Flow

    While cutting some oak plywood, I managed to get some interesting (to me, anyhow) pictures of how the assist air interacts with the laser kerf:

    Laser cut plywood flames - C
    Laser cut plywood flames – C

    The air flow is about 12 l/min from the pump in the bottom of the laser cabinet and is pushing most of the fumes through the kerf, where they ignite and burn merrily.

    The plywood is up on magnetic punk spikes to give the fumes plenty of room to disperse without making too much of a mess on the bottom surface. Unfortunately, the flame can blowtorch the cut parts after they fall through onto the honeycomb.

    Another view shows some smoke doesn’t make it through the kerf:

    Laser cut plywood flames - B
    Laser cut plywood flames – B

    The bulk of the flame seems to trail behind the beam as it cuts through the wood, which isn’t surprising:

    Laser cut plywood flames - A
    Laser cut plywood flames – A

    Just like acrylic flame, it’s kinda pretty, but should serve as another reminder why you must never, ever run your laser unattended.

  • Cheap Rechargeable Kitchen Scale: FAIL

    Cheap Rechargeable Kitchen Scale: FAIL

    While pondering what to do with the shattered kitchen scale, I got a bottom-dollar replacement touting its rechargeable lithium battery. After giving it the obligatory charge-before-using, I put it in service. Five days later, its battery was dead flat discharged.

    So I gutted it to extract the battery:

    Cheap digital scale - lithium cell
    Cheap digital scale – lithium cell

    It’s a cute little thing, isn’t it?

    Much to my surprise, the obligatory battery rundown test showed it matches its 0.74 W·hr label:

    Kitchen Scale - Charge1
    Kitchen Scale – Charge1

    We all know where this is going, right?

    Crunche a connector on the battery, another on the scale, and make up a suitable current tap for a meter:

    Cheap digital scale - current measurement setup
    Cheap digital scale – current measurement setup

    Which looked like this:

    Cheap digital scale - active current
    Cheap digital scale – active current

    That’s about what I found for the craptastic scale running from a pair of CR2032 primary cells, so it’s not out of line.

    Turn off the scale and measure the idle current:

    Cheap digital scale - inactive current
    Cheap digital scale – inactive current

    Do you think I got a dud?

    For all I know, the little microcontroller under the epoxy blob is running a continuous attack on my WiFi network, with the intent of siphoning off all my sensitive bits. Ya never know.

    Dividing the battery’s 200 mA·hr rating by 4 mA says it really should be dead in 50 hours, which is close enough to five days: diagnosis confirmed!

    Rather than fight, I switched to a battery with more capacity:

    Cheap digital scale - NP-BX1 replacement
    Cheap digital scale – NP-BX1 replacement

    It’s long past its prime, but ought to last for a month, which is about as long as the shattered scale survived on a similar battery.

    Sheesh & similar remarks.

  • Laser Cutter: Backlash Test

    Laser Cutter: Backlash Test

    A backlash test found on the LightBurn forum puts the machine through a series of difficult maneuvers:

    Backlash test
    Backlash test

    That’s burned on the back of a paperboard box at 400 mm/s @ 15%/10% power, which is slightly too intense for the smaller patterns.

    The key point is that the machine has no detectable trace of backlash, with all the opposing lines matching up and equal spacing regardless of the approach direction.

    Whew!

    The acceleration may be a little too high, as seen on some recent beam alignment targets:

    Print-and-Cut - perimeter matching
    Print-and-Cut – perimeter matching

    The larger targets on the right let the machine reach a speed closer to the nominal 400 mm/s around the arc, so the cut along the tape tab after the right-angle turn comes out a bit wobbly; the smaller targets are fine. The red lines are just under 0.5 mm wide and the wobble is on the same order, so it’s pretty close to being OK.

  • The Tree Frog Insists

    The Tree Frog Insists

    After deporting the same tree frog from her shoe five times over the course of a month, Mary finally admitted defeat:

    Tree Frog in Shoe - The Frog Insists
    Tree Frog in Shoe – The Frog Insists

    We think this is the same frog who insisted on sunning itself on the railing back in June:

    Tree frog - back on the railing
    Tree frog – back on the railing

    If that isn’t a smug smile, I don’t know what one might look like.

    When she related this tale at a Master Gardener meeting, one of her cronies said a similar frog commandeered a shoe and refused all offers of a new home, so apparently tree frogs and shoes just go together.

    Anybody that persistent deserves whatever it wants; Mary will get a new pair of shoes and keep them indoors.

  • Laser Cutter: Print-and-Cut Alignment Accuracy

    Laser Cutter: Print-and-Cut Alignment Accuracy

    Up to this point I’ve been making mirror alignment targets entirely on the laser cutter to ensure accurate alignment:

    OMTech 60W laser - beam alignment - focus detail - 2022-03-22
    OMTech 60W laser – beam alignment – focus detail – 2022-03-22

    While that works fine, using Dot Mode takes basically forever to chew its way through any nontrivial number of targets.

    Now that I have more familiarity with LightBurn’s Print-and-Cut feature, I tried printing the graticules, aligning the sheet, then laser-cutting just the perimeters:

    Laser Beam Alignment Targets - cut tabs - smoothed
    Laser Beam Alignment Targets – cut tabs – smoothed

    The smaller targets fit neatly into the hole perpendicular to the beam:

    OMTech CO2 Mirror 2 mount - Y Z screws
    OMTech CO2 Mirror 2 mount – Y Z screws

    The larger ones sit flush on the mirrors at 45° to the beam, so stretching the horizontal scale by 1.414 = √2 makes each tick mark correspond to 1 mm of perpendicular beam offset.

    All of which worked surprisingly well, with some caveats.

    The first gotcha: ordinary consumer-grade inkjet printers do not have CNC accuracy. The corner targets are on 150 mm horizontal centers and 240 mm vertical centers in the LightBurn layout, but my Epson ET-3830 printer put them on 150×241.3 mm centers. This isn’t unexpected, particularly for laser printers, but it means you must use LightBurn’s scaled version of the P-n-Cut alignment.

    I used the upper-right and lower-left targets for the P-n-Cut alignment step, confirming the positioning with a laser pulse putting a tiny hole in the paper:

    Print-and-Cut - target accuracy
    Print-and-Cut – target accuracy

    The lines are 0.5 mm wide and the inner circle is 2 mm in diameter, so my alignment at the upper right is as good as it’s gonna get and the lower left is off by maybe 0.3 mm. While it may be possible to be more accurate, I think half a millimeter is a reasonable error budget for targeting accuracy.

    The laser-perforated circles should overlay the inner printed circles after LightBurn applies the P-n-C corrections. That they obviously do not indicates the effect of the small target errors. In any event, the maximum error seems to be 1 mm, which gives you an idea of just how precise P-n-C might be.

    The perimeter laser cuts are off by about the same amount & direction as the dotted circle in the adjacent target:

    Print-and-Cut - perimeter matching
    Print-and-Cut – perimeter matching

    Overall, errors around 1 mm seem possible with careful attention to detail, but expecting anything better than a few millimeters is probably unreasonable, particularly for layouts larger than a Letter size page.

    Works for me, though!

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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  • Laser Cutter: Assist Air Flow vs. Pressure

    Laser Cutter: Assist Air Flow vs. Pressure

    A question on the LightBurn forum prompted a quick-n-dirty measurement of the assist flow rate vs. inlet air pressure, which required a bit more oomph than the laser’s air pump can provide.

    So a small air compressor with a buffer tank on a T fitting in the Basement Shop provides the air:

    Laser assist air flow test - compressor
    Laser assist air flow test – compressor

    The far end of the green 50 ft hose has a horrific quick-disconnect 1/4 inch NPT to 6 mm tube adapter replacing the laser cutter’s air pump:

    Laser assist air flow test - inlet adapter
    Laser assist air flow test – inlet adapter

    Protip: If you’re trying to run an actual air tool at the end of fifty feet of 1/4 inch ID hose, you’re doing it wrong.

    Flow measurements come from the flowmeter inside the cabinet:

    OMTech Laser - air flowmeter installed
    OMTech Laser – air flowmeter installed

    The normal dual-flow assist air setup has a flow control valve (the knob sticking up on the right) normally set for 2 l/min from the air pump:

    OMTech Laser - air assist - plumbing
    OMTech Laser – air assist – plumbing

    I cranked that valve completely open to allow unrestricted flow with the solenoid (block in the middle) closed and varied the compressor’s output pressure while measuring the air flow.

    Without further ado, the assist air flow rate as a function of the inlet air pressure just upstream of the Y fitting on the left:

    Assist Air flow vs inlet pressure
    Assist Air flow vs inlet pressure

    Fairly obviously, the flow is not 5.5 l/min at 0 psi inlet pressure and the long & skinny air hose limits the flow above 15 l/min. The eyeballometric line looks pretty good in the middle, though.

    Other measurements not shown here suggested the outlet pressure, as measured just downstream of all the plumbing / upstream of the flowmeter & hose to the laser head, is about 1 psi at 10 to 12 l/min flow, with 0.2 psi at 8 l/min. My pressure gauges have terrible accuracy at such low pressures, so I don’t trust those numbers, but the plumbing definitely accounts for most of the inlet-to-outlet pressure drop.

    The nozzle on the laser head is 4.1 mm ID → 13.2 mm²:

    Magnetic Honeycomb Spikes - MDF
    Magnetic Honeycomb Spikes – MDF

    A flow of 10 l/min produces a 13 m/s = 28 mile/hr wind through the nozzle, which seems adequate to blow the fumes out of the kerf, and the low-flow default of 2 l/min might be a 5 mph breeze.

    More air pressure would produce more wind, but it’s not clear how much better the resulting cuts would be.