Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Category: Science
If you measure something often enough, it becomes science
By a quirk of fate, the Chamberlain garage door opener in our new house has the same “purple learn button” as the Sears opener in our old house, so I introduced it to our remotes and they work just fine.
I then replaced the four-button remote in my bike pack with a new single-button remote to reduce the dexterity required to hit the button:
Garage Opener – one button
Alas, the opener only responded when the remote was immediately outside the aluminum garage door. Checking the battery (because sometimes “new” does not mean what you think it means) reminded me we live in an age when hardware is free compared with bookkeeping:
Garage Opener – interior
Maybe the second button doesn’t work and this is how they monetize their QC reject pile?
I want the door to start moving when I’m at the end of the driveway, giving it enough time to get all the way up so I can bike right in. You can actually buy remote / extension antennas, although for fancier openers with SMA antenna connectors, but sometimes a little RF black magic will suffice:
Garage Opener – crude antenna director
The wavy wire hanging down from the opener’s rear panel is the original antenna, which might be kinda-sorta omnidirectional. The opener operates around 433 MHz= 69 cm, so a quarter-wave antenna will be 17 cm = 7 inch long; the (unbent) wire is maybe 10 inches long from the hole in the panel.
So I taped 11 inches of wire to the opener to form a very very crude Yagi-Uda antenna. It’s too long to be a director element, it’s about right (albeit in the wrong place) to be a reflector element, it might be neither.
What it does do is warp the antenna’s pattern just enough to let the remote reliably trigger the opener as I approach the end of the driveway.
Do not even begin to think about polarization mismatch from what looks like the tiny loop antenna on the remote’s PCB.
The previous Basement Laboratory generally stayed above 60 °F = 15 °C, so I set the LightObject water chiller’s low-temperature alarm accordingly.
Having reached the point where I can set up the laser in its new home, I connected the chiller tubes, filled the reservoir with distilled water (and a squirt of algaecide), connected the alarm wiring, turned it on, and had the cool water trigger an alarm:
LightObject Laser chiller – low temp alarm
Which was relayed to the controller:
KT332N Diagnostic display – water protect active
Silencing the chiller’s alarm clears the error indicator in the controller, so it’s possible to Fire The Laser with too-cold water if necessary.
As with the previous icemaker chiller, plotting the water temperature as a function of time shows the pump adds some energy as it moves the water around the loop:
LightObject Q600 chiller – water heating
The gap in the data shows where I had a few other things to do, but the exponential rise is obvious. The chiller compressor starts at just over 21 °C and stops at just under 20 °C, so the exponential curve had gone about as far as it could go.
The numbers in the upper right of the plot give the weight of:
An empty water bottle
A full gallon bottle
The partially empty bottle used to top off the reservoir
How much water went into the chiller reservoir
The figures in the bottom mash the initial slope of that curve together with the weight of the water to find the 21 W required to heat the water at that rate, with a bank shot off British Thermal Units because why not.
A Kill-a-Watt meter shows the Q600 chiller draws 36 W with the pump running, which includes the controller and a column of blue LEDs behind the water level tube.
The pump (in the lower right) isn’t exactly water-cooled, but it’s not losing a lot of heat through that foam wrapper and maybe most of the heat really does come from the motor:
LightObject Laser chiller – right side internal view
The basement temperature will rise as Spring becomes Summer, so the chiller will start working right away, and it’ll definitely get more exercise when the laser starts cutting again.
Wrecking scrap discs led to experimenting with the low-power behavior of my nominal 60 W CO₂ laser. I used the same inset version of the Mariner’s Compass quilting pattern as before:
Mariners Compass – stacked insets – LB layout
The KT332N controller is set to a 7% minimum power, as the tube simply doesn’t fire below that level. The power levels shown below are the minimum and maximum for the layer.
The cuts are on CD-R discs with the same general appearance, although I can’t say whether they all came from the same manufacturing lot. All of the cuts are on the clear side of the disc, with the data side flat against the platform. Unless otherwise noted, the pictures are from the clear side, looking down into the trenches carved into the surface, and you can see reflections of the cuts in the aluminized data layer.
Power 7 to 10%:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7-10pct
Because the controller uses the minimum power at lower speeds, the laser fails to fire near the corners of the pattern.
Power 8 to 10%:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 8-10pct
The patterns generally begin in their upper-right corner where the laser has little enough power to prevent melting. However, the tube now continues firing as the laser slows for two other corners and melts a gouge into the surface.
Power 7.5 to 10%:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-10pct
The gouges are less prominent, but not by much.
Power 7.1 to 10%:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-10pct
Reducing the minimum power to just over the 7% absolute minimum reduces the size of (most of) the blobs, but also causes gaps in some of the lines and at the corners.
Power 7.1 to 7.5%:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-7.5pct start
Reducing the maximum power causes the tube to not fire at all for some vectors; it doesn’t fire at all with the maximum power set to 7.1%.
However, the firing is very sensitive to the tube temperature, as that picture is for the first pattern around the disc rim with the cooling water temperature at 20.5 °C.
The last pattern (which is just to the right of the first) looks much better with the coolant at 20.7 °C:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.1-7.5pct end
It’s still not complete, but you can see the tube power has increased enough to melt blobs into the surface similar to those at higher maximum powers.
Power 7.5 to 8%:
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct
Although the tube now fires continuously throughout the pattern, you can see thinner sections in the longer vectors over on the left.
All of the pictures above are using assist air at 12 l/min, so there’s a stiff breeze blowing the smoke away from the laser beam. Turning the assist air off reduces the flow to 2 l/min and produces a much larger cloud of fumes over the surface that seems to deposit more crud around the vectors:
CD-R vector cut – 2l-min assist air
The small MDF stops jammed in the honeycomb platform let me put all the CD-Rs at the same spot and reuse the same pattern with slight power variations and no realignment. It’s not perfect, but it’s pretty good.
CD-R vector cut – clear side – 7.5-8pct low air cleaned
If you’re being fussy about cleanliness, you might avoid scratching the otherwise pristine surface.
I also burned the data side of a disc to wreck the lacquer and aluminized layer, rather than just the clear polycarbonate.
Power 7.5 to 8% on data side, as seen from the data side:
CD-R vector cut – data side – 7.5-8pct data side
The same pattern on the same disc, seen from the clear side:
CD-R vector cut – data side – 7.5-8pct clear side
Burning through the lacquer and aluminum produces a narrower trench and slightly smaller blobs at the junctions.
Running near the tube’s minimum power produces unpredictable results, because the tube temperature matters. Variations of a few tenths of a degree can prevent the tube from firing, either intermittently or completely, so keeping the minimum layer power well above the minimum tube power is a Good Idea™ unless you can afford considerable scrap.
It’s a slow way to wreck discs, but a nice way to produce suncatching coasters:
While cutting some oak plywood, I managed to get some interesting (to me, anyhow) pictures of how the assist air interacts with the laser kerf:
Laser cut plywood flames – C
The air flow is about 12 l/min from the pump in the bottom of the laser cabinet and is pushing most of the fumes through the kerf, where they ignite and burn merrily.
The plywood is up on magnetic punk spikes to give the fumes plenty of room to disperse without making too much of a mess on the bottom surface. Unfortunately, the flame can blowtorch the cut parts after they fall through onto the honeycomb.
Another view shows some smoke doesn’t make it through the kerf:
Laser cut plywood flames – B
The bulk of the flame seems to trail behind the beam as it cuts through the wood, which isn’t surprising:
While pondering what to do with the shattered kitchen scale, I got a bottom-dollar replacement touting its rechargeable lithium battery. After giving it the obligatory charge-before-using, I put it in service. Five days later, its battery was dead flat discharged.
So I gutted it to extract the battery:
Cheap digital scale – lithium cell
It’s a cute little thing, isn’t it?
Much to my surprise, the obligatory battery rundown test showed it matches its 0.74 W·hr label:
Kitchen Scale – Charge1
We all know where this is going, right?
Crunche a connector on the battery, another on the scale, and make up a suitable current tap for a meter:
Cheap digital scale – current measurement setup
Which looked like this:
Cheap digital scale – active current
That’s about what I found for the craptastic scale running from a pair of CR2032 primary cells, so it’s not out of line.
Turn off the scale and measure the idle current:
Cheap digital scale – inactive current
Do you think I got a dud?
For all I know, the little microcontroller under the epoxy blob is running a continuous attack on my WiFi network, with the intent of siphoning off all my sensitive bits. Ya never know.
Dividing the battery’s 200 mA·hr rating by 4 mA says it really should be dead in 50 hours, which is close enough to five days: diagnosis confirmed!
Rather than fight, I switched to a battery with more capacity:
Cheap digital scale – NP-BX1 replacement
It’s long past its prime, but ought to last for a month, which is about as long as the shattered scale survived on a similar battery.
A backlash test found on the LightBurn forum puts the machine through a series of difficult maneuvers:
Backlash test
That’s burned on the back of a paperboard box at 400 mm/s @ 15%/10% power, which is slightly too intense for the smaller patterns.
The key point is that the machine has no detectable trace of backlash, with all the opposing lines matching up and equal spacing regardless of the approach direction.
The larger targets on the right let the machine reach a speed closer to the nominal 400 mm/s around the arc, so the cut along the tape tab after the right-angle turn comes out a bit wobbly; the smaller targets are fine. The red lines are just under 0.5 mm wide and the wobble is on the same order, so it’s pretty close to being OK.
If that isn’t a smug smile, I don’t know what one might look like.
When she related this tale at a Master Gardener meeting, one of her cronies said a similar frog commandeered a shoe and refused all offers of a new home, so apparently tree frogs and shoes just go together.
Anybody that persistent deserves whatever it wants; Mary will get a new pair of shoes and keep them indoors.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 