The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Mantis Durability

    Mantis Durability

    A Praying Mantis appeared on the house wall:

    Mantis - alert
    Mantis – alert

    The next morning found it huddled against the cold:

    Mantis - chilled
    Mantis – chilled

    It had reached operating temperature and gone about its business a few hours later.

    I deployed a cardboard Mantis in its honor as a seasonally appropriate yard decoration, but mine didn’t survive the night nearly as well as the real one:

    Mantis - dismantled
    Mantis – dismantled

    I doubt a predator was involved …

    A site search will reveal previous encounters with their kind.

  • Work Sharp Precision Adjust Sharpener: Button Improvement

    Work Sharp Precision Adjust Sharpener: Button Improvement

    A recent professional knife / lopper sharpening convinced me to up my sharpening game, so I figured a Work Sharp Elite sharpener would improve our backup blades:

    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener - overview
    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener – overview

    Protip: Wear gloves, because you’re working in front of an unprotected and eventually very sharp blade.

    The blade-holding clamp snaps magnetically into a rotating chuck so you can flip the knife over, at least if it’s not quite as long as that one. The chuck index has a spring-loaded release button:

    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener - rear view
    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener – rear view

    The spring is powerful and the button arrived with a recess around the screw holding the chuck together:

    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener clamp button - as received
    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener clamp button – as received

    Pressing the button hard enough to release the chuck hurt my index finger, but their Tech Support said it’s like that and that’s the way it is. Turning the screw adjusts the spring compression, but I think this situation calls for “more secure” rather than “easy to push”.

    Fortunately, I have a laser cutter and know how to use it:

    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener clamp button - filled
    Work Sharp Knife Sharpener clamp button – filled

    Despite appearances, it’s a 10 mm disk of 4.3 mm clear acrylic stuck to the screw head with a snippet of white double-sided tape and flush with the surrounding plastic surface.

    A smooth button makes my index finger much happier …

  • Fiskars Lopper Jaw Repair

    Fiskars Lopper Jaw Repair

    The Fiskars PowerGear lopper Mary uses in the garden had occasionally encountered a tomato cage wire and the blade had a few dents. We recently had a bunch of knives / blades / tools sharpened by somebody who knows what he’s doing and, while the lopper blade is now deadly sharp, grinding the dents out changed its shape enough that it no longer met the opposing plastic (probably glass-filled nylon) anvil.

    For lack of anything smarter, I cleaned the anvil, spread a layer of hot-melt glue over the surface, squished it flat with a snippet of PTFE fabric, and closed the jaws:

    Fiskars lopper jaw repair - silicone cloth indent
    Fiskars lopper jaw repair – silicone cloth indent

    Which left a blobular layer on both sides of the now perfectly matched blade channel:

    Fiskars lopper jaw repair - blade indent
    Fiskars lopper jaw repair – blade indent

    Trimming off the blobs made it slightly more presentable:

    Fiskars lopper jaw repair - trimmed edges
    Fiskars lopper jaw repair – trimmed edges

    The textured surface definitely looks great, even if the rest looks like the hack job it is.

    I’m hoping the glue layer has enough traction on the anvil to survive the duty it gets in the garden, where Mary uses it to harvest cabbages & suchlike. I’m sure the occasional cage wire will test its resolve, but we’ll know more next summer.

  • 3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Being Epoxy-Tight

    3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Being Epoxy-Tight

    Each of the glass fragments in a 3D printed coaster sits atop a metallized paper reflector in its own recess and gets covered with epoxy:

    Printed Coasters - epoxy fill
    Printed Coasters – epoxy fill

    That’s an early printed coaster with the epoxy pool covering the entire surface. Putting a rim around each fragment to form separate pools works better.

    Assuming I do a tidy job of filling the recesses, this process worked exactly as you’d expect until I printed a coaster with blue PETG-CF filament:

    Printed Coaster - Set C - oblique
    Printed Coaster – Set C – oblique

    Other than a slightly ragged cork layer motivating me to make the cork slightly smaller and use a fixture to align it properly, the coaster looks reasonably good. However, a close inspection shows all the epoxy pools are slightly recessed below their rims.

    It turns out printing PETG-CF with an extrusion multiplier of 0.8, which I figured based on fitting threaded parts together, doesn’t fuse the threads into an epoxy-tight surface:

    Printed Coasters - PETG-CF leakage - footprint
    Printed Coasters – PETG-CF leakage – footprint

    Fortunately, I’d been working on a silicone mat that could take a joke. I managed to move the coaster to a plastic sheet and refill the drained pools, although they continued to drain while curing.

    After the epoxy cured to a rubbery texture, I scraped off the meniscus around the perimeter of the coaster, but the bottom shows it cured in a pool of its own making:

    Printed Coasters - PETG-CF leakage
    Printed Coasters – PETG-CF leakage

    The cork conceals the evidence and the result looks good enough for my simple needs:

    Smashed Glass 3D Printed Coaster - Set C - in use
    Smashed Glass 3D Printed Coaster – Set C – in use

    Memo to self: Use the correct filament preset for the job!

  • 3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Cork Alignment Fixture

    3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Cork Alignment Fixture

    The printed coaster frame sits on a cork base:

    Printed Coaster - inset cork
    Printed Coaster – inset cork

    A sheet of craft adhesive holds them together; stick a generous rectangle of adhesive on the cork, then cut them at the same time. However, given the irregular perimeter, it’s basically impossible (for me, anyway) to align the cork + adhesive with the printed frame.

    A single-use fixture made from corrugated cardboard make that task trivially easy:

    Printed Coaster - cork alignment fixture - detail
    Printed Coaster – cork alignment fixture – detail

    The LightBurn layout shows the cork layer and the two fixture pieces:

    The cork shape is offset 0.5 mm inward from the Perimeter shape, but I found offsetting the cardboard cut by only 0.3 mm inward produced a snug fit around the cork. The other piece of cardboard gets cut with the exact Perimeter shape and no offset, with the laser kerf providing just enough clearance for a very snug fit on the printed shape.

    Align the two pieces of cardboard by eye to match their inner shapes as shown in the picture, tape them together, and the fixture is ready. In principle, the outer edges should exactly coincide: Trust, but verify.

    Peel off the craft adhesive paper and put the cork in the bottom of the fixture. The cork comes off a roll and really wants to roll up again, making the masking tape holding it flat mandatory:

    Printed Coasters - cork alignment template
    Printed Coasters – cork alignment template

    Yes, that’s a different coaster.

    Flip the fixture over, drop the coaster in place, press firmly together, peel the tape, and pull out the finished coaster:

    Printed Coasters - white PETG finished
    Printed Coasters – white PETG finished

    The fixture goes in the recycling bin, as those fragments will never pass this way again.

  • 3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Fragment Path Offsets, Simplified Version

    3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Fragment Path Offsets, Simplified Version

    Rather than use Inkscape or LightBurn to generate all the offsets required to make a solid model, it’s easier to let OpenSCAD handle it:

    Printed Coaster Layout - 100 mm Set G - solid model
    Printed Coaster Layout – 100 mm Set G – solid model

    The overall process:

    • Pick some interesting fragments
    • Scan to get an image
    • Mark the fragments in GIMP
    • Create a suitable circumcircle in LightBurn
    • Use a nesting program like Deepnest to create a nice layout of the fragments within the circle
    • Create the perimeter path as an offset around all the fragments in LightBurn

    Because the fragments have irregular shapes and spacing, creating the perimeter path may also produce small snippets of orphaned geometry which must be manually selected and deleted. I also edit the path to remove very narrow channels between adjacent fragments.

    Which is why you can’t generate that path automatically:

    Printed Coaster Layout - 100 mm Set G - LightBurn perimeter geometry
    Printed Coaster Layout – 100 mm Set G – LightBurn perimeter geometry

    Because LightBurn doesn’t have the ability to name the various paths, the next step requires Inkscape. After importing the LightBurn paths saved as an SVG, group all the fragments and name the group Fragments, then name the perimeter path Perimeter:

    Printed Coaster Layout - 100 mm Set G - Inkscape layer and IDs
    Printed Coaster Layout – 100 mm Set G – Inkscape layer and IDs

    Inkscape still crashes unpredictably while doing what seems to be a simple process, which may be due to the tremendous number of points in the hand-traced fragment outlines. Unfortunately, simplifying the curves in either LightBurn or Inkscape tends to round off the extreme points and increases the likelihood of the fragment not fitting into its recess.

    OpenSCAD generates all the other features in the solid model with paths plucked from that file:

    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    fn = "Printed Fragment Coaster - 100 mm Set G - Inkscape paths.svg";
    
    FragmentThick = 3.8;
    
    BaseThick = 1.0;
    RimHeight = 1.0;
    
    union() {
    
      linear_extrude(h=BaseThick)
        import(fn,id="Perimeter");
    
       color("Green")
      up(BaseThick)
        linear_extrude(h=FragmentThick)
          difference() {
            import(fn,id="Perimeter");
            offset(delta=0.2)
              import(fn,id="Fragments");
          }
    
      color("Red")
      up(BaseThick)
        linear_extrude(h=FragmentThick + RimHeight)
          difference() {
            offset(delta=2.5)
              import(fn,id="Fragments");
            offset(delta=1.2)
              import(fn,id="Fragments");
          }
    
    
    }
    

    The Perimeter path defines the overall shape of the coaster as a 1.0 mm thick slab, visible as the white-ish line around the edge and at the bottom of all the fragment recesses.

    Atop that, the green shape is the same Perimeter shape, with the Fragment shapes removed after the offset() operation enlarges them by 0.2 mm to ensure enough clearance.

    Finally, the red walls containing the epoxy above each fragment are 1.3 mm wide, the difference of the two offset() operations applied to the Fragments.

    Because the outer edge of the wall is 2.5 mm away from the edge of its fragment:

    • The Perimeter path must be offset at least 2.5 mm from the Fragments in LightBurn. I used 4.0 mm to produce a small lip around the outside edge of the coaster.
    • The fragment shapes must be placed at least 5.0 mm apart to prevent the walls from overlapping. I set Deepnest to exactly 5.0 mm spacing, but you can see a few places where the fragments come too close together. I think this happens due to an approximation deepnest uses while rotating the paths, but it may be better to manually adjust the errant fragments than increase the average space.

    While this still requires manually tracing the glass fragments and fiddling a bit with Inkscape, the overall process isn’t nearly as burdensome as getting all the offsets correct every time.

    However, some oddities remain. OpenSCAD produced this result during the first pass through the process for this coaster:

    Printed Coaster Layout - 100 mm Set G - spurious point
    Printed Coaster Layout – 100 mm Set G – spurious point

    As far as I can tell, the spurious point came from a numeric effect, because telling Inkscape to store only five decimal places in the SVG file reduced the spike to the small bump seen in the first picture. I cannot replicate that effect using the same files and have no explanation.

  • 3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Fragment Path Offsets, Complicated Version

    3D Printed Smashed Glass Coasters: Fragment Path Offsets, Complicated Version

    This should have been trivially easy and turned into a nightmare.

    The problem to be solved is generating paths around fragments for the various recesses / reflectors / lips / rims / whatever. This clutter collector was a test piece:

    Smashed Glass Clutter Collector - overview
    Smashed Glass Clutter Collector – overview

    The corresponding paths:

    Printed Clutter Collector - Inkscape layers
    Printed Clutter Collector – Inkscape layers

    Which was how I convinced myself I didn’t need all those paths to make the thing, but that’s why it’s a test piece.

    Anyhow, Inkscape has a remarkably complex and fiddly way of generating precise offsets:

    • Select a path
    • Hit Ctrl-J to create a Dynamic Offset path
    • Drag the offset path away from the original in any direction for any distance
    • Hit Ctrl-Shift-x to fire up the XML editor (!)
    • Change the offset path’s inkscape:radius property to the desired offset

    During the course of working that out, I discovered Inkscape 1.4.2 is incredibly crashy when creating and dealing with offsets, to the point that I simply gave up trying to do that.

    LightBurn has no trouble creating a path at a specific offset from another path and can export the result as an SVG file. You then use Inkscape to set the path IDs so that OpenSCAD can import them by name for a specific use. Although Inkscape isn’t entirely stable doing even that seemingly trivial task, it’s usable.

    For reasons I do not profess to understand, setting the name of a path sometimes does not set its ID property, which is required by OpenSCAD to extract it from the SVG file. Instead, you must verify / set the ID using the path’s Object Properties window:

    Printed Clutter Collector - Inkscape path properties
    Printed Clutter Collector – Inkscape path properties

    I also set the Label property, because … why not?

    A top view shows how the various paths look in real life:

    Smashed Glass Clutter Collector - top view
    Smashed Glass Clutter Collector – top view

    The OpenSCAD program generating the solid model from those paths:

    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    fn = "Printed Clutter Collector - Inkscape layers.svg";
    
    FragmentThick = 5.0;
    
    BaseThick = 1.0;
    RimHeight = 7.0;
    
    union() {
      linear_extrude(h=BaseThick)
        import(fn,id="Perimeter");
        
      linear_extrude(h=BaseThick + FragmentThick + RimHeight)
        difference() {
          import(fn,id="Perimeter");
          import(fn,id="Rim");
        }
    
      up(BaseThick - 0.05)
        linear_extrude(h=FragmentThick)
          difference() {
            import(fn,id="Perimeter");
            import(fn,id="Recess");
          }
    
    }
    

    Which becomes this:

    Printed Clutter Collector - solid model
    Printed Clutter Collector – solid model

    Save that, import it into PrusaSlicer, pick the filament, and print it out.

    While the printer buzzes away, use LightBurn to cut a shiny blue metallized paper reflector and a cork base using the appropriate paths; presumably you set those paths to LightBurn layers corresponding to the various materials. The Inkscape file has those paths with their names, because … why not?

    To assemble:

    • Cover the bottom of the recess with epoxy
    • Squish the reflector in place with epoxy oozing around it on all sides
    • Cover the reflector with epoxy
    • Squish the fragment atop the reflector with epoxy oozing around it on all sides
    • Fill the recess level with the lip inside the perimeter wall
    • Pop bubbles as needed
    • When it’s cured, stick the cork sheet on the bottom

    Note that the OpenSCAD program uses the path geometry without question, so it’s your responsibility to create them with the proper offsets and names.

    While all of that to-ing and fro-ing works, in the sense that I did make a rather nice clutter collector, it’s entirely too complicated and fiddly to be useful. Instead, I can now generate a coaster from just the fragment outlines and the coaster’s outer perimeter, a straightforward process which requires a bit more explanation.