The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Fluidmaster Toilet Fill Valve

    Fluidmaster Toilet Fill Valve

    The Kohler fill valve in the Main Bathroom’s Kohler toilet tank began leaking, but (unsurprisingly) the shutoff valve on its water pipe no longer completely shut off, thus converting a simple replacement into A Plumbing Project. Because toilet shutoff valves sit below all other valves / faucets / plumbing, the pipe can spew a generous amount of water straight up while you’re fumbling with the new valve, no matter how well you (think you) drained the pipes.

    So I deployed scrap towels around the pipe, buttered the new valve threads with joint compound, applied various wrenches with appropriate muttering, and swapped the valves without damage to the premises:

    Toilet shutoff valve - installed
    Toilet shutoff valve – installed

    AFAICT, the chromed pipe and corroded trim plate are original; no possible motivation can convince me to replace that plate. The tattered PTFE tape on the pipe suggests the valve I replaced might have been only a few decades old, albeit with a correspondingly deteriorated washer.

    With the water shut off, I replaced the fill valve with a Fluidmaster valve from Box o’ Plumbing Stuff #3; it was new-in-box despite being maybe a decade old. Turned the water back on, fiddled with the float setting to match the Water Line level, and declared victory.

    Which lasted until user feedback indicated the new fill valve wasn’t shutting off. After a fruitless day of fiddling about, I replaced the original seal with a repair part taken from Box #3:

    Fluidmaster 242 Fill Valve Seal
    Fluidmaster 242 Fill Valve Seal

    The fill valve now works perfectly, for reasons having nothing do with the the appearance of either seal, and victory has once again been declared.

    Houses, as Gee observed, are trouble.

  • Quilting Ruler: Dual Semicircles

    Quilting Ruler: Dual Semicircles

    Along the same lines as the 45° triangle quilting ruler and the small arc quilting ruler, this one has a nonstandard 6-¼ inch diameter semicircle for the pattern Mary designed for a friend’s quilt:

    Semicircular Ruler - on quilt
    Semicircular Ruler – on quilt

    The 4-½ inch diameter semicircle is there because the larger half needed a handle for easier maneuvering. As with workshop clamps, quilters can never have enough rulers, so that curve will come in handy for something.

    Unfortunately, I did not mirror-image the layout like this:

    Semicircular Ruler - LightBurn layout
    Semicircular Ruler – LightBurn layout

    Which would make it correct when seen through the acrylic:

    Semicircular Ruler - engraving
    Semicircular Ruler – engraving

    Given the very specific use case, I begged forgiveness and was not compelled to get it right.

    The LightBurn SVG layout is a GitHub Gist.

  • Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

    Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

    The Bradford White AeroTherm heat pump water heater that Came With The House™ has been running for three years. Based on previous experience with the same City of Poughkeepsie water, it was time for a look at the anode rod.

    Which, as always, required the Greatest Ratchet with a foot of extensions getting the 1-1/16 inch socket down to the rod:

    Water Heater Powered Anode - socket wrench
    Water Heater Powered Anode – socket wrench

    Remember to:

    • Turn off the water heater power
    • Shut off the inlet and outlet valves
    • Open the drain valve to relieve the tank pressure
    • Only then loosen the anode rod

    Seeing the first few inches justified extracting the rod:

    Water Heater Powered Anode - old rod top
    Water Heater Powered Anode – old rod top

    Due to low overhead clearance and inauspicious pipe locations, I had to hacksaw the bottom third off to extract the rod:

    Water Heater Powered Anode - old rod overview
    Water Heater Powered Anode – old rod overview

    Water Heater Powered Anode - old rod bottom
    Water Heater Powered Anode – old rod bottom

    With the rod out, draining a few gallons of water into a pan didn’t produce any notable gravel, so I didn’t do a complete flush. Much to my delight, the drain has a ball valve!

    Given that this is a fancy water heater and I no longer regard anode rod maintenance as a fun-filled activity, I installed a Corro-Protec powered anode rod for cathodic protection without all the crud:

    Water Heater Powered Anode - Corro-Protec parts
    Water Heater Powered Anode – Corro-Protec parts

    The wall wart proclaims 15 mA with a green LED indicating it’s hard at work:

    Water Heater Powered Anode - Corro-Protec wall wart
    Water Heater Powered Anode – Corro-Protec wall wart

    The data plate on the back reports 24VDC 15mA, but, being me, I poked at it with a handful of resistors:

    Corro-Protec power supply measurements
    Corro-Protec power supply measurements

    The electronics could be as simple as a 24 VDC wall wart feeding a 425 Ω series resistor and a transistor switch lighting the LED for currents a little over 6 mA.

    A quick ohmmeter check shows the powered rod electrode is open-circuit with respect to the tank, as it should be without much applied voltage. Applying +24 VDC from the wall wart drives 15 mA into the water: the rod is hard at work.

    I’ll take a look at it in a year or so just to see what’s going on in there …

  • Mini-Lathe 100 TPI Stacked Change Gear

    Mini-Lathe 100 TPI Stacked Change Gear

    Before turning the PVC conduit to the proper diameter for the Shopvac hose adapter, I set up a 20-50-32-80 change gear train for a 100 TPI finish. While the urethane adhesive cured in the hose, I fed the BC gear pair into my change gear generator:

    Mini-lathe stacked change gears - 32-50T - solid model
    Mini-lathe stacked change gears – 32-50T – solid model

    It’s ready for the next time I cut something down to size:

    Mini-lathe 100 TPI change gears
    Mini-lathe 100 TPI change gears

    One reference suggests a 256 TPI finish for “general turning”, which works out to 20-80-20-80:

    Mini-lathe stacked change gears - 20-80T - solid model
    Mini-lathe stacked change gears – 20-80T – solid model

    That’s just crazy talk, because the BC washer overlaps the D gear teeth:

    Mini-lathe 256 TPI change gears
    Mini-lathe 256 TPI change gears

    If all else fails and I really need a 256 TPI finish, lathes are pretty good at making washers.

  • Shopvac Hose Adapter

    Shopvac Hose Adapter

    Adapting a previous adapter to put a much longer hose on the Least Shopvac now lurking under the bandsaw / Sherline / lathe workbench:

    Spiral Hose - 1.25in nozzle adapter - installed
    Spiral Hose – 1.25in nozzle adapter – installed

    The tapered adapter drags the OpenSCAD code into the BOSL2 era:

    Spiral Hose - 1.25in nozzle adapter - solid model
    Spiral Hose – 1.25in nozzle adapter – solid model

    The ID of the hose determined the OD of the lathe-turned PVC tube inside the 3D printed adapter, so a straight pipe would just slide right into both parts.

    It would be possible to skip the 3D printing and make the adapter from a single piece of PVC:

    • Turn one end of the conduit to fit the hose ID
    • Maneuver the lathe compound to the required 1.05° half-angle
    • Turn the taper to fit the crevice tool
    • Clean up the original OD between the two sections

    Just turning the whole pipe to a smaller OD and sliding the taper on was definitely easier, particularly given the mini-lathe’s cramped quarters with the compound nearly parallel to the bed.

    A generous helping of JB PlasticBonder urethane adhesive bonds the PVC pipe inside the vacuum hose and the tapered adapter.

    The as-printed taper perfectly fits the crevice tool shown in the picture and is one wrap of electrical tape smaller than another crevice tool of “the same size”. The Finesse variable handles that situation, should it matter to you.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Shopvac spiral hose to 1.25 in nozzle
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU
    // 2026-07-25
    
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    Finesse = 0.2;             // [-0.5:0.1:0.5]
    
    // PVC pipe liner final OD
    PipeOD = 28.5;
    
    /* [Hidden] */
    
    NumSides = 4*3*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;           // make holes end cleanly
    HoleWindage = 0.2;          // make holes large enough to fit
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    TAPER_MIN = 0;
    TAPER_MAX = 1;
    TAPER_LENGTH = 2;
    
    Tool = [30.0,31.1,30.0] + [Finesse,Finesse,0];
    
    FlangeOD = 37.0;
    FlangeLength = 5.0;
    
    //render()
    difference() {
    
        union() {
            cyl(FlangeLength,d=FlangeOD,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
              cyl(Tool[TAPER_LENGTH],d1=Tool[TAPER_MAX],d2=Tool[TAPER_MIN],anchor=BOTTOM);
          }
    
        down(Protrusion)
          cyl(2*Tool[TAPER_LENGTH] + FlangeLength,d=PipeOD + HoleWindage,anchor=BOTTOM);
    
    }
    
    
  • Workbench Scrap Can: Rehung

    Workbench Scrap Can: Rehung

    Somewhat as expected, the scrap can slowly and inexorably pulled the tape off the workbench.

    So I did what I should have done originally:

    Workbench scrap can - rivnuts
    Workbench scrap can – rivnuts

    Those are M5 button-head screws in rivnuts drilled into the workbench frame:

    Workbench scrap can - rivnut detail
    Workbench scrap can – rivnut detail

    With a dab of threadlock holding each screw in place, this should be forever:

    Workbench scrap can - rehung
    Workbench scrap can – rehung

    Now, I must make sawdust / swarf / chips again …

  • Laser-cut Window Screen

    Laser-cut Window Screen

    Having just cleaned a bunch of gunk out of the bottom of the worm bin, we decided to try a layer of window screen to keep both gunk and worms out of the sump.

    A roll of window screen Came With The House™, minus label or provenance, that felt like some sort of plastic, perhaps with a glass core.

    The bin has a 19-¼ inch = 488 mm ID with 10 thin support struts around the perimeter. Laying out a circle and cutting it accurately by hand seemed like a chore, even though the screen cut easily with ordinary scissors.

    The diameter just barely fit on the laser’s 700×500 mm platform, so I laid it out in LightBurn:

    Laser-cut window screen - LightBurn layout
    Laser-cut window screen – LightBurn layout

    For lack of anything smarter, I applied the same setting as for the faucet gasket material (30 mm/s at 25% of 60 W) and Fired The Laser.

    As far as I could tell while the laser was trundling around the circle, absolutely nothing happened other than maybe burning off a coating with a little discoloration on either side of the path.

    However, the circle lifted out with zero drama:

    Laser-cut window screen
    Laser-cut window screen

    And was a perfect fit in the worm bin.

    Color me surprised!

    I have no pictures of the happy results, as all this happened in the few minutes between “We should try a screen”, dropping the cut screen in place, and reassembling the bin.

    I think the screen would cut just as well with a higher speed. If the screen works and we need another, I’ll run a few tests first.