The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Diurnal Pumping, Fluid Division

    I caught this just before it made a mess:

    Sta-Bil jar - diurnal pumping
    Sta-Bil jar – diurnal pumping

    That container lives in the garage, where the air temperature pretty much tracks the weather.

    When the air in the main compartment heats up, it pushes fluid up into the dispensing compartment. Although both caps were screwed on finger-tight, apparently the smaller cap leaks just enough that the pumped fluid can push the air out through the not-so-good seal.

    Another few weeks and it’d be sitting in a puddle!

  • Red Oaks Mill APRS iGate: KE4ZNU-10

    APRS coverage of this part of the Mighty Wappinger Creek Valley isn’t very good, particularly for our bicycle radios (low power, crappy antennas, lousy positions), so I finally got around to setting up a receive-only APRS iGate in the attic.

    The whole setup had that lashed-together look:

    KE4ZNU-10 APRS iGate - hardware
    KE4ZNU-10 APRS iGate – hardware

    It’s sitting on the bottom attic stair, at the lower end of a 10 °F/ft gradient, where the Pi 3’s onboard WiFi connects to the router in the basement without any trouble at all.

    After about a week of having it work just fine, I printed a case from Thingiverse:

    KE4ZNU-10 APRS iGate - RPi TNC-Pi case
    KE4ZNU-10 APRS iGate – RPi TNC-Pi case

    Minus the case, however, you can see a TNC-Pi2 kit atop a Raspberry Pi 3, running APRX on a full-up Raspbian Jessie installation:

    RPi TNC-Pi2 stack - heatshrink spacers
    RPi TNC-Pi2 stack – heatshrink spacers

    You must solder the TNC-Pi2 a millimeter or two above the feedthrough header to keep the component leads off the USB jacks. The kit includes a single, slightly too short, aluminum standoff that would be perfectly adequate, but I’m that guy: those are four 18 mm lengths of heatshrink tubing to stabilize the TNC, with the obligatory decorative Kapton tape.

    The only misadventure during kit assembly came from a somewhat misshapen 100 nF ceramic cap:

    Monolithic cap - 100 nF - QC failure
    Monolithic cap – 100 nF – QC failure

    Oddly, it measured pretty close to the others in the kit package. I swapped in a 100 nF ceramic cap from my heap and continued the mission.

    The threaded brass inserts stand in for tiny 4-40 nuts that I don’t have. The case has standoffs with small holes; I drilled-and-tapped 4-40 threads and it’ll be all good.

    The radio, a craptastic Baofeng UV-5R, has a SMA-RP to UHF adapter screwed to the cable from a mobile 2 meter antenna on a random slab of sheet metal on the attic floor. It has Kenwood jack spacing, but, rather than conjure a custom plug, I got a clue and bought a pair of craptastic Baofeng speaker-mics for seven bucks delivered:

    Baofeng speaker-mic wiring
    Baofeng speaker-mic wiring

    For reference, the connections:

    Baofeng speaker-mic cable - pins and colors
    Baofeng speaker-mic cable – pins and colors

    Unsoldering the speaker-mic head and replacing it with a DE-9 connector didn’t take long.

    The radio sits in the charging cradle, which probably isn’t a good idea for the long term. The available Baofeng “battery eliminators” appear to be even more dangerously craptastic than the radios and speaker-mics; I should just gut the cheapest one and use the shell with a better power supply.

    I initially installed Xastir on the Pi, but it’s really too heavyweight for a simple receive-only iGate. APRX omits the fancy map displays and runs perfectly well in a headless installation with a trivial setup configuration.

    There are many descriptions of the fiddling required to convert the Pi 3’s serial port device names back to the Pi / Pi 2 “standard”. I did some of that, but in point of fact none’s required for the TNC-Pi2; use the device name /dev/serial0 and it’s all good:

    <interface>
    serial-device /dev/serial0 19200 8n1 KISS
    callsign $mycall # callsign defaults to $mycall
    tx-ok false # transmitter enable defaults to false
    telem-to-is false # set to 'false' to disable
    </interface>
    

    Because the radio looks out over an RF desert, digipeating won’t be productive and I’ve disabled the PTT. All the received packets go to the Great APRS Database in the Cloud:

    server   noam.aprs2.net
    

    An APRS reception heat map for the last few days in August:

    KE4ZNU-10 Reception Map - 2016-08
    KE4ZNU-10 Reception Map – 2016-08

    The hot red square to the upper left reveals a peephole through the valley walls toward Mary’s Vassar Farms garden plot, where her bike spends a few hours every day. The other hotspots show where roads overlap the creek valley; the skinny purple region between the red endcaps covers the vacant land around the Dutchess County Airport. The scattered purple blocks come from those weird propagation effects that Just Happen; one of the local APRS gurus suggests reflections from airplane traffic far overhead.

    An RPi 3 is way too much computer for an iGate: all four cores run at 0.00 load all day long. On the other paw, it’s $35 and It Just Works.

  • Smithsonian’s Apollo 11 Command Module

    An old friend asked for a copy of the Smithsonian’s Apollo 11 Command Module. I started with a tiny 1:80 version to check feasibility:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-80 scale
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-80 scale

    It’s obviously not printable in one piece without a ton of support, so I chopped off the heatsink and printed the parts separately in the obvious orientation:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-80 scale - split - Slic3r preview
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-80 scale – split – Slic3r preview

    And glued them back together:

    Apollo 11 CM - clamping
    Apollo 11 CM – clamping

    That worked well enough, even without locating pins, to give me confidence that it’d come out all right.

    There’s plenty of gimcrackery surrounding the upper airlock:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-40 scale - top - Slic3r preview
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-40 scale – top – Slic3r preview

    Most of which simply vanished at 1:80 scale:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-80 scale - top detail
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-80 scale – top detail

    I made another cut just below the top of the capsule and ran off a 1:40 scale version that came out somewhat better, but it was still ugly:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-40 scale - mortar detail
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-40 scale – mortar detail

    Much to my astonishment, the grab rail over the side hatch, between the two parachute motars, came out well every time.

    The giant 1:20 scale version would require something over 24 hours of printing, so I went with 1:30 in three pieces:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-30 scale - sections
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-30 scale – sections

    The top had pretty good detail:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-30 scale - top section - 1
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-30 scale – top section – 1

    Another view:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-30 scale - top section - 2
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-30 scale – top section – 2

    Gluing the parts together made it ready for cleanup / finishing / painting:

    Apollo 11 CM - 1-30 scale - assembled
    Apollo 11 CM – 1-30 scale – assembled

    Which he’s better at than I ever will be…

    Natural PETG probably isn’t the right plastic for that kind of model, but it’s what I had on hand.

    Enjoy!

  • Cast Iron Pan Electrolysis Stripping

    Our cast iron pans need seasoning, so I decided to start with full-metal-jacket electrolysis stripping, rather than soaking them in oven cleaner / smogging the kitchen with the self-cleaning oven / actually doing any work. The electrolysis setup involves the big battery charger and a bucket of sodium carbonate solution:

    Cast iron pan electrolysis - setup
    Cast iron pan electrolysis – setup

    Although the charger has a 40 A capacity, the small pan bubbles along merrily at a self-limited 7 A:

    Cast iron pan electrolysis - bucket
    Cast iron pan electrolysis – bucket

    The anode is a big sheet of steel that was once an EMI shield in a big PC case. The side facing the pan corroded very quickly, but the outside remains in good shape and I think it’ll suffice for the medium and large pans.

    After two hours, only the crustiest bits of the crust remained:

    Cast iron pan electrolysis - 2 hours
    Cast iron pan electrolysis – 2 hours

    Those flakes fell right off after a few pokes from my demolition scraper; definite anticlimax, that.

    Another hour in the tank cleaned the handle and removed a few other spots; it now sports a layer of flash rust that’ll require another pass after I strip the other two pans…

  • Miniblind Cord Caps

    After smashing one of the cord pulls between the sash and the frame:

    Miniblind cord caps - installed
    Miniblind cord caps – installed

    The glittery PETG looks surprisingly good in the sunlight that will eventually change it into dullness. The black flecks come from optical effects in the plastic, not the usual burned PETG snot.

    The solid model is basically a hull around two “spheres”, truncated on top & bottom:

    Miniblind cord cap - solid model
    Miniblind cord cap – solid model

    The interior has a taper to accommodate the knot, but they’re chunky little gadgets:

    Miniblind cord cap - solid model - bottom
    Miniblind cord cap – solid model – bottom

    I thought the facets came out nicely, even if they’re mostly invisible in the picture.

    Each pull should build separately to improve the surface finish, so I arranged five copies in sequence from front to back:

    Miniblind cord cap - 5 sequential - Slic3r preview
    Miniblind cord cap – 5 sequential – Slic3r preview

    If you’re using an M2, the fans hanging off the front of the filament drive housing might come a bit too close for comfort, so rotate ’em upward and out of the way.

    If you remove the interior features and flip ’em upside down, they’d work well in Spiral Vase mode. You’d have to manually drill the top hole, though, because a hole through the model produces two shells.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Cap for miniblind cord
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU – August 2016
    //- Extrusion parameters – must match reality!
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    //——
    // Dimensions
    OD1 = 0;
    OD2 = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    Cap = [9.0,16.0,25.0];
    Cord = [2.5,7.0,Cap[LENGTH] – 5];
    NumSides = 8;
    //———————-
    //- Build it
    difference() {
    hull() { // overall shape
    translate([0,0,Cap[LENGTH] – Cap[OD1]/2])
    sphere(d=Cap[OD1],$fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,0,0.5*Cap[OD2]/2])
    sphere(d=Cap[OD2],$fn=2*NumSides); // round the bottom just a bit
    }
    translate([0,0,-Cap[LENGTH]/2]) // trim bottom
    cube([2*Cap[OD2],2*Cap[OD2],Cap[LENGTH]],center=true);
    translate([0,0,Cap[LENGTH] + 0.8*Cap[OD1]]) // trim top (arbitrarily)
    cube([2*Cap[OD1],2*Cap[OD1],2*Cap[OD1]],center=true);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d=Cord[OD1],h=(Cap[LENGTH] + 2*Protrusion),$fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=Cord[OD2],d2=Cord[OD1],h=(Cord[LENGTH] + Protrusion),$fn=NumSides);
    }
  • Kenmore Progressive Vacuum Tool Adapters: First Failure

    I picked up a horsehair dust brush from eBay as a lightweight substitute for the Electrolux aluminum ball, discovered that an adapter I’d already made fit perfectly, did the happy dance, and printed one for the brush. That worked perfectly for half a year, whereupon:

    Dust Brush Adapter - broken parts
    Dust Brush Adapter – broken parts

    It broke about where I expected, along the layer lines at the cross section where the snout joins the fitting. You can see the three perimeter shells I hoped would strengthen the part:

    Dust Brush Adapter - layer separation
    Dust Brush Adapter – layer separation

    That has the usual 15% 3D Honeycomb infill, although there’s not a lot area for infill.

    There’s obviously a stress concentration there and making the wall somewhat thicker (to get more plastic-to-plastic area) might suffice. I’m not convinced the layer bonding would be good enough, even with more wall area, to resist the stress; that’s pretty much a textbook example of how & where 3D printed parts fail.

    That cross section should look like this:

    Dust Brush Adapter - Snout infill - Slic3r preview
    Dust Brush Adapter – Snout infill – Slic3r preview

    Anyhow, I buttered the snout’s broken end with JB Kwik epoxy, aligned the parts, and clamped them overnight:

    Dust Brush Adapter - clamping
    Dust Brush Adapter – clamping

    The source code now has a separate solid model for the dust brush featuring a slightly shorter snout; if when the epoxy fails, we’ll see how that changes the results. I could add ribs and suchlike along the outside, none of which seem worth the effort right now. Fairing the joint between those two straight sections would achieve the same end, with even more effort, because OpenSCAD.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Kenmore vacuum cleaner nozzle adapters
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU August 2016
    // Layout options
    Layout = "DustBrush"; // MaleFitting CoilWand FloorBrush CreviceTool ScrubbyTool LuxBrush DustBrush
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    // Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    ID1 = 0; // for tapered tubes
    ID2 = 1;
    OD1 = 2;
    OD2 = 3;
    LENGTH = 4;
    OEMTube = [35.0,35.0,41.7,40.5,30.0]; // main fitting tube
    EndStop = [OEMTube[ID1],OEMTube[ID2],47.5,47.5,6.5]; // flange at end of main tube
    FittingOAL = OEMTube[LENGTH] + EndStop[LENGTH];
    $fn = 12*4;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    //——————-
    // Male fitting on end of Kenmore tools
    // This slides into the end of the handle or wand and latches firmly in place
    module MaleFitting() {
    Latch = [40,11.5,5.0]; // rectangle latch opening
    EntryAngle = 45; // latch entry ramp
    EntrySides = 16;
    EntryHeight = 15.0; // lower edge on *inside* of fitting
    KeyRadius = 1.0;
    translate([0,0,6.5])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=OEMTube[OD1],d2=OEMTube[OD2],h=OEMTube[LENGTH]); // main tube
    hull() // insertion guide
    for (i=[-(6.0/2 – KeyRadius),(6.0/2 – KeyRadius)],
    j=[-(28.0/2 – KeyRadius),(28.0/2 – KeyRadius)],
    k=[-(26.0/2 – KeyRadius),(26.0/2 – KeyRadius)])
    translate([(i – (OEMTube[ID1]/2 + OEMTube[OD1]/2)/2 + 6.0/2),j,(k + 26.0/2 – 1.0)])
    sphere(r=KeyRadius,$fn=8);
    translate([0,0,-EndStop[LENGTH]]) // wand tube butts against this
    cylinder(d=EndStop[OD1],h=EndStop[LENGTH] + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-OEMTube[LENGTH]]) // main bore
    cylinder(d=OEMTube[ID1],h=2*OEMTube[LENGTH] + 2*Protrusion);
    translate([0,-11.5/2,23.0 – 5.0]) // latch opening
    cube(Latch);
    translate([OEMTube[ID1]/2 + EntryHeight/tan(90-EntryAngle),0,0]) // latch ramp
    translate([(Latch[1]/cos(180/EntrySides))*cos(EntryAngle)/2,0,(Latch[1]/cos(180/EntrySides))*sin(EntryAngle)/2])
    rotate([0,-EntryAngle,0])
    intersection() {
    rotate(180/EntrySides)
    PolyCyl(Latch[1],Latch[0],EntrySides);
    translate([-(2*Latch[0])/2,0,-Protrusion])
    cube(2*Latch[0],center=true);
    }
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Refrigerator evaporator coil wand
    module CoilWand() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,50.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=42.0,h=50.0);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=35.0,d2=35.8,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,50.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Samsung floor brush
    module FloorBrush() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,60.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=32.4,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=32.4,d2=30.7,h=50.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=28.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,60.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Crevice tool
    module CreviceTool() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,60.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=32.0,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=32.0,d2=30.4,h=50.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=28.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,60.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Mystery brush
    module ScrubbyTool() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,60.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=31.8,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=31.8,d2=31.0,h=50.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=26.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,60.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // eBay horsehair dusting brush
    module DustBrush() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,40.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=31.8,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=31.6,d2=31.8,h=30.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=26.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,40.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Electrolux brush ball
    module LuxBrush() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,30.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=30.8,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=30.8,d2=30.0,h=20.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=25.0,d2=23.0,h=30 + 2*Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,30.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it!
    if (Layout == "MaleFitting")
    MaleFitting();
    if (Layout == "CoilWand")
    CoilWand();
    if (Layout == "FloorBrush")
    FloorBrush();
    if (Layout == "CreviceTool")
    CreviceTool();
    if (Layout == "DustBrush")
    DustBrush();
    if (Layout == "ScrubbyTool")
    ScrubbyTool();
    if (Layout == "LuxBrush")
    LuxBrush();

     

  • Kenmore Model 158: Needle Lights, Now With Moah LEDs

    The first pass at retrofitting SMD LEDs to light the needle area in Mary’s Model 158 sewing machine worked well enough:

    Kenmore 158 Needle Light - heatsink
    Kenmore 158 Needle Light – heatsink

    However, she wanted more light on the right side of the needle, so now she has it:

    Needle LEDs - front
    Needle LEDs – front

    That’s without any LEDs along the front and back of the arm, hence the dark pool beyond the sewing machine’s base.

    Those are the same 5050 warm white LEDs I used on the other side:

    Needle LEDs - lower right
    Needle LEDs – lower right

    Seen without the glare:

    Needle LEDs - bottom
    Needle LEDs – bottom

    They’re mounted on a 32 mil brass strip from the shimstock stash, carefully hand-bent and twisted to match the curvature of the arm, and held in place with JB Kwik steel-filled epoxy for good heat conduction to the aluminum arm. One can argue with the epoxy oozing out from under the brass, but it’s invisible from above.

    No construction photos, alas, because I made this in a white-hot frenzy one afternoon and managed to not take any pix during the entire session. Call it working in the flow, OK?

    All four SMD LEDs sit in epoxy blobs that isolate them from the brass strip, with 26 AWG solid wire “bus bars” soldered to the top of their terminals and a length of that lovely PTFE-insulated miniature coax leading off into the endcap. More epoxy encloses all the wiring & connections to provide a surprisingly smooth surface that shouldn’t snag the fabric.

    The power supply uses an 18 W 120 VAC to 12 VDC brick intended for small LED installations:

    Needle LEDs power supply - exterior
    Needle LEDs power supply – exterior

    The AC comes from the same zip cord that formerly supplied the original 15 W incandescent bulb in the endcap, so the new lights behave the same way: push the power button to turn on the machine and the LEDs pop on just like they should. I put quick-disconnect terminals in the AC line to make it removable, although those need some sort of insulated plug to cover the exposed blades inside their housing.

    Inside the black box, a small boost supply steps the voltage up to just under the nominal operating level of 21 VDC:

    Needle LEDs power supply - interior
    Needle LEDs power supply – interior

    You can just see the adjusting screw hole in front of the AC brick in the overall view.

    The DC output exits in the middle of the far side, through a coax jack epoxied to the base.

    As before, all six LEDs run in parallel at (for now) 18.5 VDC and maybe 50 mA each, for a total of 300 mA, and seem fearsomely bright even at that. We can now tune for best light as needed.

    This is a major major major improvement over the previous tangle of wires stuck on the outside of the machine, with all the wiring internal to the arm and the power supply out of sight under the sewing table.

    After an hour, the arm above the four LEDs runs 13 °C above ambient and the endcap over the two LED heatsink is 6 °C over ambient. The AC supply runs at 104 °C and its plastic case offers no provision for heatsinking. All in all, things are warm and not hazardous.

    I haven’t retrofit this machine with LED strips along the front & back of the arm, as those may not be needed with the intense needle lighting; the NisLite desk lamp may suffice for area illumination.