Raspberry Pi Model B+ Reset Connector

Turns out Raspberry Pi boards have provision for a Reset switch, but you gotta dig for it. On the Model B+, it’s labeled RUN:

Raspberry Pi BPlus - RUN header

Raspberry Pi BPlus – RUN header

Soldering in that 2-pin header and plugging a pushbutton switch on a short cable will suffice until I get around to thinking of / scrounging a suitable case.

Poking the button forces a power-on reset, which you shouldn’t do with the RPi running, lest you trash the filesystem. After shutting down with sudo halt, however, the switch does exactly what’s needed: restarts the CPU from scratch.

The RPi draws little enough power that there’s no point in actually pulling the plug; stressing that Micro-B connector is definitely a Bad Idea.


  1. #1 by TravelingServiceMan on 2016-02-07 - 08:24

    What a coincidence. I just set up a B+ as a repetier server and was just in the process of searching for how to use a GPIO pin to a) reset or, better, b) force a safe shutdown. Still going to go looking for a way to make a safe shutdown, but good to know about the reset traces.

    • #2 by Ed on 2016-02-07 - 08:44

      a way to make a safe shutdown

      The general ideas seems to involve setting up a background task to monitor a GPIO pin, then have it Do The Right Thing when the pin goes low. The details are out there, somewhere, I know I’ve seen them… [sigh]

  2. #3 by TravelingServiceMan on 2016-02-07 - 08:47

    • #4 by Ed on 2016-02-07 - 09:10

      Looks good!

      I’d add an external pullup resistor to augment the internal one, but that’s just crazy talk: go with the flow!

      • #5 by TravelingServiceMan on 2016-02-09 - 09:31

        Well, it worked quite well. I dropped a 1k from the 3.3V to pin 4 and simply ground that to force a shutdown. Based on comments, I am hoping the pull-up will keep it robust and there will be no false triggers (especially since the Raspi is running repetier-server, three guesses what an unintended shutdown would do…). If I do get shutdowns/restarts, I’ll invest some time to make it require a 3s push before shutting down or restarting. I’m leery of using the Run pin, but it is exactly what I need to start the thing back up after a shutdown. Decisions, decisions. Leery only because I want to avoid and unintended restart.

        • #6 by Ed on 2016-02-09 - 10:12

          The “power switch” on Mary’s sewing machine requires about a second to turn the machine on (while the Arduino goes through the normal bootloader startup) and I added a similar delay to turn it off (because tapping the switch might happen while rearranging a pile of fabric). Works perfectly: highly recommended!

          The Model B Rev 2.0 boards have well-armored circuitry behind the RUN header and it should be at least as stable as anything else you’ll do… [grin]

          • #7 by TravelingServiceMan on 2016-02-09 - 16:19

            Im more concerned about some spurious noise causing the Rpi to ‘sense’ a nonexistent falling edge. I’m thinking I want the script to only run the shutdown after it has seen 3s of low on the pin. A ‘slow’ switch on the run header, though, that would resolve my fears of accidentally pushing it. Or an appropriately designed case with a recessed switch. Oh jiminy, too many projects.

            • #8 by Ed on 2016-02-09 - 16:31

              some spurious noise

              Nah, look at the schematic: the RUN header looks straight into a 100 nF cap with a solid pullup and over/undervolt clamp diodes. Absent an actual mechanical short, the voltage on that header isn’t going anywhere unexpected.

              Don’t worry, be happy…

        • #9 by Vedran on 2016-02-09 - 11:41

          Adding appropriately sized resistor and capacitor in series with the reset switch should get you the 3s timeout with minimal hassle. It’s not bombproof tough, and you would probably need a bleeder resistor in parallel with the cap but it’s still a very low effort solution :)

  3. #10 by madbodger on 2016-02-07 - 19:29

    Oddly, the USB micro-B connectors are more robust than the mini-B ones. I’m personally fond of the “inverted” ones (wide end down), which have a larger (and hopefully thereby sturdier) mounting surface. I’ve designed one into a project I’m building, only to find there are multiple versions of them and my board is designed for the fully surface mount version, and the parts I got have through-hole posts for additional strength. Oooops.

    • #11 by Ed on 2016-02-08 - 09:25

      I keep thinking the PCB should be deep enough inside to have a cutout for the plug in the side wall to restrict the motion, but then you’re pretty much depending on the plug shape and we know that changes arbitrarily. [mutter]

      • #12 by madbodger on 2016-02-08 - 14:44

        Yes indeed. I vaguely remember another style that’s designed to mount in a cutout in the board so it can attach to both sides. It looked complicated to me, so I avoided it.

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