Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
A needle case emerged from the bottom of a drawer in need of repair:
Needle Case – unglued
The original joint used solvent glue and I suppose I could refresh it with acetone, but two blobs of hot melt glue seemed easier and, IMO, more durable.
In any event, it’s once more ready for use:
Needle Case – repaired
Hooray for another zero-dollar repair, although you can see why nobody else does them these days.
As expected, the defunct pen’s ink supply core had worn down to the surrounding ceramic nib:
HP 7475A Ceramic-tip pen – worn core
The new pen looks like it has a brush sticking out:
HP 7475A Ceramic-tip pen – fresh core
The new pen’s core looks slightly larger and, in fact, it’s labeled as 0.4 mm rather than 0.3 mm. The new-old-stock pen stash includes a few 0.2 mm ceramic pens; I should think of something requiring hairline detail.
It passed the manual scribble test and promptly ran out of ink during its first plot. I injected some blue ink and it’s now plotting happily for the first time in its life.
Although a sex bolt works as a central pivot, even the shortest one available in a cheap assortment is too long for three paper decks and an acrylic cursor:
That’s the front side, with the stylin’ rounded head, in “gunmetal” gray. The shank is 5 mm ID (the advertised size), 5.5 mm (-ish) OD, 4 mm long beyond the 10 mm OD head. All dimensions vary unpredictably between sellers, so expect nothing in particular and you won’t be disappointed.
The back side gets the washer:
Tek CC – eyelet pivot – rear
The entire stack is 1.7 mm tall: three 0.4 mm laminated decks and the 0.5 mm polypropylene cursor. The 4 mm shank length seems excessive, but works out well in practice, even if I need more practice at smoothly swaging shank over washer. It’s sufficiently good looking in person.
Note: the washer goes on convex side outward!
The set includes a hole punch suitable for leather work and slightly too small for paper, plus the swaging punch and die required for the washer.
I was given a spare presser foot to demonstrate my case:
Kenmore 158 Presser Foot – original – front
The overhead light in the shop produces glare from the nice, shiny steel surfaces similar to what Mary sees from the sewing machine.
A few minutes applying 220 grit blast media with Tiny Sandblaster™ definitely changed its appearance:
Kenmore 158 Presser Foot – sandblasted – front
In person, the finish is neutral gray overall, with those odd brown areas appearing only in photographs, perhaps due to the various lights in the shop. The slight texture variations seem to correspond to minor differences in the plating (?) over the steel surface. It definitely cuts down the glare:
Kenmore 158 Presser Foot – sandblasted vs original
The needle clamp and screw across the top of that picture travel up and down, so we decided to deglare them along with the “good” foot:
Kenmore 158 – foot with needle clamp – original
Another Tiny Sandblaster™ session knocked back their shine:
Kenmore 158 – foot with needle clamp – sandblasted
Those parts came out slightly less matte, perhaps due to reduced pressure in the propellant can. Seeing as how I’ve had the sandblaster for a couple of decades, I figured it’s time to use the propellant but, as expected, the in-can valve doesn’t re-seal properly, so I’ll be using compressed air the next time around.
After rinsing and blowing and rinsing and blowing the grit out of the threads, everything went back together as expected:
Kenmore 158 – sandblasted hardware installed
I’m not doing either of the plates until we have more experience with the matte hardware, but it looks pretty good to me.