Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Tag: Improvements
Making the world a better place, one piece at a time
That worked surprisingly well for surprisingly long, but the edges eventually came loose and, after far too long, I deployed the Tiny Sandblaster™:
Kenmore 158 – matte cover plate – feet
The mottled matte effect isn’t quite what I expected, but it’s better-looking in person and we deemed it Good Enough™ for the purpose.
You saw the foot on the left in the previous effort:
Kenmore 158 – matte cover plate – feet – detail
The rounded plate directly under the needle sits far enough back to not reflect any of the LEDs toward her normal operating position, so we decided it didn’t need sandblasting.
Shooting the modified copper elbow with gloss black atop gray primer definitely improved its disposition:
Floor Lamp – painted elbow – installed
I’d have been more inclined to apply several light coats if the wind weren’t blowing up a storm. As it was, I shot enough black to cover the not-quite-dry primer (“top coat at any time”) and called it a day.
The scuffed tubes aren’t quite that ugly in person, but they have suffered some abuse along the way. Seen from a normal working distance, however, it’s all good:
Floor Lamp – finished
The lamp isn’t quite as tippy as I feared, so I’ll try it without the broken truck spring counterweight until something untoward happens.
Chuck up a length of 5/8 inch aluminum tube, clean up the end, and poke a thread runout slot into it:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – thread runout
Turn the soon-to-be-thread OD to 14.7 mm, well under the minimum 14.794 mm major thread diameter. I figure it’s better to match the existing not-quite-standard tube threads than to get all fussy about tolerances:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – thread OD
Drill out the tube to 27/64 inch = 0.422 inch = 10.7 mm, a bit larger than the OEM fittings, to easily pass the JST-SM connector I added so I could take the lamp apart:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – drilling bore
Yeah, you’re not supposed to let the swarf build up like that, but it’s hard to stop when you’re getting good chip.
The compound is at 90° to the cross slide, because the DRO housing doesn’t let the compound swivel to the proper angle for thread cutting. I’m just ramming the threader straight into the tube, taking sissy cuts, and hoping for the best.
Kiss the OD with the cutter, set the cross slide DRO to zero, position the cutter just off the end of the tube, close the split nuts around the leadscrew, engage the threading dial at a conspicuous mark:
Mini-Lathe Threading Dial – aligned
The first real pass looked good:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – first thread pass
The runout slot is 1/16 inch = 1.6 mm wide and I’m running the lathe dead slow, so there’s plenty of time to punch the STOP button as the cutter enters the slot and let the spindle coast down. Flip the switch to REVERSE, crank the cross slide out a turn (1 mm with 0.3 mm of crank backlash), run the cutter back to the starting point, crank the cross slide in, and iterate until the fitting screws into one of the OEM lamp tubes:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – final thread
The 5/8 inch tube is just a smidge too small for the copper fitting, so knurl the fitting to enlarge the OD slightly more than a smidge:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – knurled
Break the knurl edges, part off the fitting, clean up the new end, and do it all over again:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – threaded adapters
The knurls got filed down to an exact slip fit in the copper elbow and will eventually be epoxied in place.
The cut-off tube on the lamp head also needs internal threads, so bore out the interior to flatten the weld seam:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – cleaning tube bore
No pix of the threading, but you have the general idea; the tube wall is a scant 0.6 mm thick, so this isn’t the place for full-spec threads. I stopped when the OEM tube screwed in place.
Apart from the hideous solder job, it came together pretty well:
Floor Lamp – tube fitting – unpainted
It’s much more stable than Kapton-wrapped tubes jammed into a bare copper fitting, although that’s not saying much.
Running my assortment of custom 3D printed change gears through the LittleMachineShop calculator and copying the results into a spreadsheet for E-Z formatting produces a useful table:
Although OpenSCAD’s MCAD library includes a gear generator, I don’t profess to understand the relations between reality and its myriad parameters, plus I vaguely recall it has a peculiar definition for Diametral Pitch (or some such). Rather than fiddle with all that, I start with an SVG outline from Inkscape’s Gears extension and go all 3D on it.
So, the “gear blank” looks like this after extruding the SVG:
Mini-lathe change gear – 42 tooth – SVG import
Producing this is a lot easier in OpenSCAD than in real life:
Mini-lathe change gear – 42 tooth – solid model
OpenSCAD centers the blank’s bounding box at XY=0, which won’t be exactly on the bore centerline for gears with an odd number of teeth. One tooth sits at 0° and two teeth bracket 180°, so the bounding box will be a little short on one side
A reference for gear nomenclature & calculations will come in handy.
For a 21 tooth module 1 gear, which should be pretty close to the worst case in terms of offset:
Pitch dia = d = 21 × 1 = 21 mm
Tip dia = da = d + 2m = 23 mm
Tip radius = da/2 = 11.5 mm
Tooth-to-tooth angle = 360/21 = 17.143°
Radius to tangent across adjacent teeth = 11.5 × cos 17.143°/2 = 11.372 mm
An actual metal 21 tooth gear measures 22.87 mm across a diameter, dead on what those numbers predict: 11.5 + 11.372 = 22.872 mm.
So the bounding box will be 11.5 mm toward the tooth at 0° and 11.372 mm toward the gap at 180°. The offset will be half that, with the tooth at 0° sitting 0.063 mm too close to the origin. Gears with more teeth will have smaller errors.
Given that we’re dealing with a gear “machined” from plastic goo, that’s definitely close enough:
Mini-Lathe change gears – 1 mm – 45-50-45-60
That’s an earlier version with the debossed legend.
The code can also generate stacked gears for the BC shaft in the middle:
Mini-lathe change gear – 42-55 tooth stacked – solid model
In principle, the key locking the gears together isn’t needed and the bore could fit the inner shaft, rather than the keyed bushing, but then you’d (well, I’d) be at risk of losing the bushing + key in one easy operation.
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By the Universal Principle of the Conservation of Perversity, the base of the floor lamp just barely doesn’t fit under the edge of the Comfy Chair:
Floor Lamp – copper 70° elbow – installed
Well, I can fix that!
Lift Chair Foot – installed
The feet descend from the fuzzy felt feet on the plant shelves, with the hex head socket transmogrified into a circle to match the chair feet. The support structure grew a flat plate to ensure it doesn’t pull loose from the platform:
Lift Chair Feet – solid model – support view
Print ’em out, stick the felt in place:
Lift Chair Feet – assembly
Lift the chair (maybe with a small prybar atop some plywood to protect the floor), position the feet, lower gently: done!
While the M2 was warm, I ran off another set for the other Comfy Chair, just for symmetry.
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