The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Arducam Motorized Focus Camera: Focusing Equation

    Arducam Motorized Focus Camera: Focusing Equation

    The values written to the I²C register controlling the Arducam Motorized Focus Camera lens position are strongly nonlinear with distance, so a simple linear increment / decrement isn’t particularly useful. If one had an equation for the focus value given the distance, one could step linearly by distance.

    So, we begin.

    Set up a lens focus test range amid the benchtop clutter with found objects marking distances:

    Arducam Motorized Focus camera - test setup
    Arducam Motorized Focus camera – test setup

    Fire up the video loopback arrangement to see through the camera:

    Arducam Motorized Focus test - focus infinity
    Arducam Motorized Focus test – focus infinity

    The camera defaults to a focus at infinity (or, perhaps, a bit beyond), corresponding to 0 in its I²C DAC (or whatever). The blue-green scenery visible through the window over on the right is as crisp as it’ll get through a 5 MP camera, the HP spectrum analyzer is slightly defocused at 80 cm, and everything closer is fuzzy.

    Experimentally, the low byte of the I²C word written to the DAC doesn’t change the focus much at all, so what you see below comes from writing a focus value to the high byte and zero to the low byte.

    For example, to write 18 (decimal) to the camera:

    i2cset -y 0 0x0c 18 0

    That’s I²C bus 0 (through the RPi camera ribbon cable), camera lens controller address 0x0c (you could use 12 decimal), focus value 18 * 256 + 0 = 0x12 + 0x00 = 4608 decimal.

    Which yanks the focus inward to 30 cm, near the end of the ruler:

    Arducam Motorized Focus test - focus 30 cm
    Arducam Motorized Focus test – focus 30 cm

    The window is now blurry, the analyzer becomes better focused, and the screws at the far end of the yellow ruler look good. Obviously, the depth of field spans quite a range at that distance, but iterating a few values at each distance gives a good idea of the center point.

    A Bash one-liner steps the focus inward from infinity while you arrange those doodads on the ruler:

    for i in {0..31} ; do let h=i*2 ; echo "high: " $h ; let rc=1 ; until (( rc < 1 )) ; do i2cset -y 0 0x0c $h 0 ; let rc=$? ; echo "rc: " $rc ; done ; sleep 1 ; done

    Write 33 to set the focus at 10 cm:

    Arducam Motorized Focus test - focus 10 cm
    Arducam Motorized Focus test – focus 10 cm

    Then write 55 for 5 cm:

    Arducam Motorized Focus test - focus 5 cm
    Arducam Motorized Focus test – focus 5 cm

    The tick marks show the depth of field might be 10 mm.

    Although the camera doesn’t have a “thin lens” in the optical sense, for my simple purposes the ideal thin lens equation gives some idea of what’s happening. I think the DAC value moves the lens more-or-less linearly with respect to the sensor, so it should be more-or-less inversely related to the focus distance.

    Take a few data points, reciprocate & scale, plot on a doodle pad:

    Arducam Motorized Focus RPi Camera - focus equation doodles
    Arducam Motorized Focus RPi Camera – focus equation doodles

    Dang, I loves me some good straight-as-a-ruler plotting action!

    The hook at the upper right covers the last few millimeters of lens travel where the object distance is comparable to the sensor distance, so I’ll give the curve a pass.

    Feed the points into a calculator and curve-fit to get an equation you could publish:

    DAC MSB = 10.8 + 218 / (distance in cm)
    = 10.8 + 2180 / distance in mm)

    Given the rather casual test setup, the straight-line section definitely doesn’t support three significant figures for the slope and we could quibble about exactly where the focus origin sits with respect to the camera.

    So this seems close enough:

    DAC MSB = 11 + 2200 / (distance in mm)

    Anyhow, I can now tweak a “distance” value in a linear-ish manner (perhaps with a knob, but through evdev), run the equation, send the corresponding DAC value to the camera lens controller, and have the focus come out pretty close to where it should be.

    Now, to renew my acquaintance with evdev

  • RPi HQ Camera: 4.8 mm Computar Video Lens

    RPi HQ Camera: 4.8 mm Computar Video Lens

    The Big Box o’ Optics disgorged an ancient new-in-box Computar 4.8 mm lens, originally intended for a TV camera, with a C mount perfectly suited for the Raspberry Pi HQ camera:

    RPi HQ Camera - Computar 4.8mm - front view
    RPi HQ Camera – Computar 4.8mm – front view

    Because it’s a video lens, it includes an aperture driver expecting a video signal from the camera through a standard connector:

    Computar 4.8 mm lens - camera plug
    Computar 4.8 mm lens – camera plug

    The datasheet tucked into the box (!) says it expects 8 to 16 V DC on the red wire (with black common) and video on white:

    Computar Auto Iris TV Lens Manual
    Computar Auto Iris TV Lens Manual

    Fortunately, applying 5 V to red and leaving white unconnected opens the aperture all the way. Presumably, the circuitry thinks it’s looking at a really dark scene and isn’t fussy about the missing sync pulses.

    Rather than attempt to find / harvest a matching camera connector, the cord now terminates in a JST plug, with the matching socket hot-melt glued to the Raspberry Pi case:

    RPi HQ Camera - 4.8 mm Computar lens - JST power
    RPi HQ Camera – 4.8 mm Computar lens – JST power

    The Pi has +5 V and ground on the rightmost end of its connector, so the Computar lens will be jammed fully open.

    I gave it something to look at:

    RPi HQ Camera - Computar 4.8mm - overview
    RPi HQ Camera – Computar 4.8mm – overview

    With the orange back plate about 150 mm from the RPi, the 4.8 mm lens delivers this scene:

    RPi HQ Camera - 4.8 mm Computar lens - 150mm near view
    RPi HQ Camera – 4.8 mm Computar lens – 150mm near view

    The focus is on the shutdown / startup button just to the right of the heatsink, so the depth of field is maybe 25 mm front-to-back.

    For comparison, the official 16 mm lens stopped down to f/8 has a tighter view with good depth of field:

    RPi HQ Camera - 16 mm lens - 150mm near view
    RPi HQ Camera – 16 mm lens – 150mm near view

    It’d be nice to have a variable aperture, but it’s probably not worth the effort.

  • Magnetic Base: Last 10% Manufacturing

    Magnetic Base: Last 10% Manufacturing

    A magnetic base of unknown provenance and surprising expense when bought new emerged from the back of the workbench:

    Erick Magna Holder - side view
    Erick Magna Holder – side view

    It’s been hiding back there since the first (attempted) use showed it wasn’t a quadruped:

    Erick Magna Holder - as-delivered stance
    Erick Magna Holder – as-delivered stance

    Grabbing the other end in the bench vise and whacking the top of the offending leg with a brass persuader pretty much lined it up. Closer inspection showed a problem with the push-to-detach lever:

    Erick Magna Holder - rivet pivot
    Erick Magna Holder – rivet pivot

    The rivet head and thin washers extend a bit beyond the circular arc, with the rivet holding the leg above whatever it’s supposed to stick to. I think the scarring on the rivet was an attempt to improve the situation, perhaps during a QC adjustment session, that didn’t quite work.

    The hole through the leg is a touch under 4 mm and the Big Box o’ Random Small Screws disgorged a 6-32 screw with what might have been a 5/32 inch = 4 mm nominal = 3.8 mm actual shoulder of exactly the right length:

    Erick Magna Holder - 6-32 screw clearance
    Erick Magna Holder – 6-32 screw clearance

    The screw head flange cleared the floor, but wasn’t much of an improvement over the rivet. I eventually chucked it in the lathe and removed the flange & hex-head corners, an improvement you won’t see here.

    Even with the frame whacked into alignment, all four feet didn’t contact the surface plate along their entire lengths. Absent a surface grinder, I deployed a big blue Sharpie and the largest file on hand:

    Erick Magna Holder - filing base
    Erick Magna Holder – filing base

    Iterating Sharpie and file eventually knocked off enough of the high spots to make it Good Enough™ for the intended purpose, which is definitely not precision metrology:

    Erick Magna Holder - bottom filed
    Erick Magna Holder – bottom filed

    Those chunky cross-pieces are Old School alnico magnets, which is the only reason a simple lever can pry it off a steel plate.

    Now, at least, it can stand on its own four feet.

    As Johnny Mnemonic put it: “These days … you have to be pretty technical before you can even aspire to crudeness“.

  • Kenmore Progressive Vacuum Cleaner vs. Dust Brush Adapters

    Kenmore Progressive Vacuum Cleaner vs. Dust Brush Adapters

    Contemporary vacuum cleaner dust brush heads have bristles in some combination of [long | short] with [flexy | stiff]. The long + flexy combination results in the bristles jamming the inlet and the short + stiff combo seems unsuited for complex surfaces. Shaking the Amazonian dice brought a different combination:

    Vacuum cleaner dust brush assortment - with adapters
    Vacuum cleaner dust brush assortment – with adapters

    That’s the new one on the bottom and, contrary to what you might think from the picture, it is not identical to the one just above it.

    In particular, the black plastic housing came from a different mold (the seam lines are now top-and-bottom) and required a new adapter for the Kenmore Progressive vacuum cleaner’s complicated wand / hose inlet, with a 3/4 inch PVC pipe reinforcement inside.

    Early reports indicate it works fine, so I’ll declare a temporary victory in the war on entropy.

    I’m still using the same OpenSCAD source code with minute tweaks to suit the as-measured tapers.

  • Raspberry Pi HQ Camera Mount

    Raspberry Pi HQ Camera Mount

    As far as I can tell, Raspberry Pi cases are a solved problem, so 3D printing an intricate widget to stick a Pi on the back of an HQ camera seems unnecessary unless you really, really like solid modeling, which, admittedly, can be a thing. All you really need is a simple adapter between the camera PCB and the case of your choice:

    HQ Camera Backplate - OpenSCAD model
    HQ Camera Backplate – OpenSCAD model

    A quartet of 6 mm M2.5 nylon spacers mount the adapter to the camera PCB:

    RPi HQ Camera - nylon standoffs
    RPi HQ Camera – nylon standoffs

    The plate has recesses to put the screw heads below the surface. I used nylon screws, but it doesn’t really matter.

    The case has all the right openings, slots in the bottom for a pair of screws, and costs six bucks. A pair of M3 brass inserts epoxied into the plate capture the screws:

    RPi HQ Camera - case adapter plate - screws
    RPi HQ Camera – case adapter plate – screws

    Thick washers punched from an old credit card go under the screws to compensate for the case’s silicone bump feet. I suppose Doing the Right Thing would involve 3D printed spacers matching the cross-shaped case cutouts.

    Not everyone agrees with my choice of retina-burn orange PETG:

    RPi HQ Camera - 16 mm lens - case adapter plate
    RPi HQ Camera – 16 mm lens – case adapter plate

    Yes, that’s a C-mount TV lens lurking in the background, about which more later.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Raspberry Pi HQ Camera Backplate
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU 2020-09
    //– Extrusion parameters
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    function IntegerLessMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * floor(Size / Unit);
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    //- Basic dimensions
    CamPCB = [39.0,39.0,1.5]; // Overall PCB size, plus a bit
    CornerRound = 3.0; // … has rounded corners
    CamScrewOC = [30.0,30.0,0]; // … mounting screw layout
    CamScrew = [2.5,5.0,2.2]; // … LENGTH = head thickness
    Standoff = [2.5,5.5,6.0]; // nylon standoffs
    Insert = [3.0,4.0,4.0];
    WallThick = IntegerMultiple(2.0,ThreadWidth);
    PlateThick = Insert[LENGTH];
    CamBox = [CamPCB.x + 2*WallThick,
    CamPCB.y + 2*WallThick,
    Standoff.z + PlateThick + CamPCB.z + 1.0];
    PiPlate = [90.0,60.0,PlateThick];
    PiPlateOffset = [0.0,(PiPlate.y – CamBox.y)/2,0];
    PiSlotOC = [0.0,40.0];
    PiSlotOffset = [3.5,3.5];
    NumSides = 2*3*4;
    TextDepth = 2*ThreadThick;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    difference() {
    union() {
    hull() // camera enclosure
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*(CamBox.x/2 – CornerRound),j*(CamBox.y/2 – CornerRound),0])
    cylinder(r=CornerRound,h=CamBox.z,$fn=NumSides);
    translate(PiPlateOffset)
    hull()
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // Pi case plate
    translate([i*(PiPlate.x/2 – CornerRound),j*(PiPlate.y/2 – CornerRound),0])
    cylinder(r=CornerRound,h=PiPlate.z,$fn=NumSides);
    }
    hull() // camera PCB space
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*(CamPCB.x/2 – CornerRound),j*(CamPCB.y/2 – CornerRound),PlateThick])
    cylinder(r=CornerRound,h=CamBox.z,$fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,-CamBox.y/2,PlateThick + CamBox.z/2])
    cube([CamScrewOC.x – Standoff[OD],CamBox.y,CamBox.z],center=true);
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1]) // camera screws with head recesses
    translate([i*CamScrewOC.x/2,j*CamScrewOC.y/2,-Protrusion]) {
    PolyCyl(CamScrew[ID],2*CamBox.z,6);
    PolyCyl(CamScrew[OD],CamScrew[LENGTH] + Protrusion,6);
    }
    for (j=[-1,1]) // Pi case screw inserts
    translate([0,j*PiSlotOC.y/2 + PiSlotOffset.y,-Protrusion] + PiPlateOffset)
    PolyCyl(Insert[OD],2*PiPlate.z,6);
    translate([-PiPlate.x/2 + (PiPlate.x – CamBox.x)/4,0,PlateThick – TextDepth/2] + PiPlateOffset)
    cube([15.0,30.0,TextDepth + Protrusion],center=true);
    }
    translate([-PiPlate.x/2 + (PiPlate.x – CamBox.x)/4 + 3,0,PlateThick – TextDepth – Protrusion] + PiPlateOffset)
    linear_extrude(height=TextDepth + Protrusion,convexity=2)
    rotate(-90)
    text("Ed Nisley",font="Arial:style=Bold",halign="center",valign="center",size=4,spacing=1.05);
    translate([-PiPlate.x/2 + (PiPlate.x – CamBox.x)/4 – 3,0,PlateThick – TextDepth – Protrusion] + PiPlateOffset)
    linear_extrude(height=TextDepth + Protrusion,convexity=2)
    rotate(-90)
    text("KE4ZNU",font="Arial:style=Bold",halign="center",valign="center",size=4,spacing=1.05);

  • Raspberry Pi Streaming Video Loopback

    Raspberry Pi Streaming Video Loopback

    As part of spiffing my video presence for SquidWrench Zoom meetings, I put a knockoff RPi V1 camera into an Az-El mount, stuck it to a Raspberry Pi, installed the latest OS Formerly Known as Raspbian, did a little setup, and perched it on the I-beam over the workbench:

    Raspberry Pi - workbench camera setup
    Raspberry Pi – workbench camera setup

    The toothbrush head has a convenient pair of neodymium magnets affixing the RPi’s power cable to the beam, thereby preventing the whole lashup from falling off. The Pi, being an old Model B V 1.1, lacks onboard WiFi and requires a USB WiFi dongle. The white button at the lower right of the heatsink properly shuts the OS down and starts it up again.

    Zoom can show video only from video devices / cameras attached to the laptop, so the trick is to make video from the RPi look like it’s coming from a local laptop device.

    Start by exporting video from the Raspberry Pi:

    raspivid --nopreview -t 0 -rot 180 -awb sun --sharpness -50 --flicker 60hz -w 1920 -h 1080 -ae 48 -a 1032 -a 'RPi Cam1 %Y-%m-%d %X'  -b 1000000 -l -o tcp://0.0.0.0:5000

    The -rot 180 -awb sun --sharpness -50 --flicker 60hz parameters make the picture look better. The bottom of the video image There is no way to predict which side of the video will be on the same side as the cable, if that’s any help figuring out which end is up, and the 6500 K LED tubes apparently fill the shop with “sun”.

    The -l parameter causes raspivid to wait until it gets an incoming tcp connection on port 5000 from any other IP address, whereupon it begins capturing video and sending it out.

    Then, on the laptop, create a V4L loopback device:

    sudo modprobe v4l2loopback devices=1 video_nr=10 exclusive_caps=1 card_label="Workbench"

    Zoom will then include a video source identified as “Workbench” in its list of cameras.

    Now fetch video from the RPi and ram it into the loopback device:

    ffmpeg -f h264 -i tcp://192.168.1.50:5000 -f v4l2 -pix_fmt yuv420p /dev/video10

    VLC knows it as /dev/video10:

    RPi - V4L loopback - screen grab
    RPi – V4L loopback – screen grab

    That’s the edge of the workbench over there on the left, looking distinctly like a cliff.

    The RPi will happily stream video all day long to ffmpeg while you start / stop the display program pulling the bits from the video device. However, killing ffmpeg also kills raspivid, requiring a manual restart of both programs. This isn’t a dealbreaker for my simple needs, but it makes unattended streaming from, say, a yard camera somewhat tricky.

    There appear to be an infinite number of variations on this theme, not all of which work, and some of which rest upon an unsteady ziggurat of sketchy / unmaintained software.

    Addendum: If you have a couple of RPi cameras, it’s handy to run the matching ssh and ffmpeg sessions in screen / tmux / whatever terminal multiplexer you prefer. I find it easier to flip through those sessions with Ctrl-A N, rather than manage half a dozen tabs in a single terminal window. Your mileage may differ.

  • Bike Helmet Mirror: Brasswork Clamp

    Bike Helmet Mirror: Brasswork Clamp

    A bit of Quality Shop Time produced a slight improvement to the clamp holding the mirror to the stalk:

    Helmet Mirror Ball Mount - mirror joint brasswork
    Helmet Mirror Ball Mount – mirror joint brasswork

    The general idea is to hold the wave washer (it’s mashed under the flat washer, honest) above those bumps on the plate holding the mirror and stalk balls. It’s a few millimeters from the end of a ¼ inch brass rod, drilled for the M3 screw, and reduced to 4.5 mm with a parting tool to clear the bumps.

    While I was at it, I made two spare mirrors, just to have ’em around:

    Helmet Mirror Ball Mount - new vs old
    Helmet Mirror Ball Mount – new vs old

    The new ball mount looks downright svelte compared to the old Az-El mount, doesn’t it?

    I should replace the steel clamp plates with a stainless-steel doodad of some sort to eliminate the unsightly rust, but that’s definitely in the nature of fine tuning.