Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Tag: Improvements
Making the world a better place, one piece at a time
Burn some holes and draw lines 10 mm in from the physical corners, like this:
LB Camera Cal – corner target
Burn holes and lay in a 10 mm grid at the center point:
LB Camera Cal – center grid
The center grid as seen through the camera:
LB Camera Cal – center grid overlay
That’s after adjusting the X and Y offset to align the center of the imaged grid with the center of the design grid. That’s using the non-faded image to make the target lines more visible.
The corner markers don’t quite line up with the grid, but they’re not off by much (using the faded image to make the grid more visible):
You could, of course, split the difference among all five sites, but I think having the middle of the platform be more accurate than the far corners makes more sense.
Early on, I stuck a camera to the lid of my OMTech 60 W laser:
OMTech Laser – camera mount
The uncorrected view from the camera (through VLC):
LB Uncorrected Camera View
After calibration and alignment, LightBurn underlays this view of the platform behind the workspace:
LB Corrected Camera View
The correction depends critically on the camera maintaining its position / orientation / focus, which turns out to be a bad assumption for the camera I’ve been using, because the (metal) focus locking screw binds directly on the (metal) lens threads. This works, until vibrations slightly loosen the screw and the lens shifts ever so slightly.
After noticing the focus had shifted again, I tucked a snippet of silicone insulation from some 30 AWG hookup wire into the screw hole to compress against the lens thread, then re-did the entire sequence with some attention to detail.
Pulsing the laser in each corner produced pinholes exactly 700×500 mm apart. One diagonal is 859.0 mm and the other is 861.5 mm, pretty close to the ideal 860.2 mm.
Next, to measure the offsets from some known positions …
Mary left the sticky card traps in the onion patch until the last onions came out, clustered them around the leeks, and collected them long after the season was over.
I count maybe twenty flies that might be onion maggot flies or cabbage maggot flies.
The cards protected the onion crop, failed miserably for the leeks, and did nothing for the nearby cabbages. Deploying the cards while planting worked very well, refreshing them after a month continued the protection, but the main fly season seems to end shortly thereafter.
All the sticky cards as a slideshow, starting with the three along the border fence:
VCCG Onion Card – fence A – 2022-11
VCCG Onion Card – fence B – 2022-11
VCCG Onion Card – fence C – 2022-11
VCCG Onion Card – plot A – 2022-11
VCCG Onion Card – plot B – 2022-11
VCCG Onion Card – plot C – 2022-11
VCCG Onion Card – plot D – 2022-11
The cards remain sticky to my fingers, but an adroit fly could skate over the debris field and emerge unscathed.
The Hakko FX-888 soldering iron perched on the corner of my bench has a little red LED that lights up when it’s heating and goes off when it’s not. Unfortunately, while shutting down after fixing something, I sometimes glance at the thing while the LED is off, whereupon it will patiently keep the iron hot, sometimes for days, until I return.
A recent Squidwrench session gave me the opportunity to yoink that nuisance off the to-do pile where it has been pending since about ten minutes after I unboxed the iron a decade ago.
Some concerted rummaging failed to turn up the stash of bridge rectifiers, so I air-wired one from a quartet of discrete diodes:
Hakko 888 Soldering Iron pilot – bridge rectifier
Remember: the bigger the blob, the better the job.
For the record, the transformer produces 28 VAC, with the center tap 26 VAC from the left end and 2 VAC from the right end.
A 10 kΩ resistor stands upright at the far corner of the bridge, limiting the LED current to a few milliamps and making it bright enough for the purpose.
The front of the case has plenty of vacant space in its upper corners, so I drilled a hole and poked a blue LED:
Hakko 888 Soldering Iron pilot – heating
That’s shown with the iron heating.
Here’s an action shot with the temperature at the setpoint:
Hakko 888 Soldering Iron pilot – stable
Nowadays all soldering irons have digital readouts with no need for a pilot light.
Of course, two days later I found the bridge rectifier stash, but there’s no point in opening the patient again.
It did, however, dry the tubing and the construction was Pretty Close™ to being the proper size.
Making the stand from acrylic sheet eliminates the MDF stench:
CPAP Dryer filter – acrylic stand – fitting end
Incoming air passes through a dome-style N95 mask:
CPAP Dryer filter – acrylic stand – filter end
The mask sets the overall size of the stand:
CPAP Dryer – Filter holder – LB layout
Given that we’re not talking Level 4 Biohazard, any filter would work equally well. A dome mask has a nicely defined and self-supporting shape with a flange around the edge.
The flange provides a convenient way to build the clamp ring, starting with a scan from the face side:
Demetech Dome Mask – interior scan
Tracing the flange outline using GIMP’s Scissor Select tool and doing a little cleanup in Quick Mask mode produced a selection suitable for becoming a binary mask of the N95 mask:
Demetech Dome Mask – perimeter mask
Ex post facto, I realized the mask has a sufficiently regular outline to fit a much simpler Beziér spline:
CPAP Dryer – Filter holder – LB splines
That began in LightBurn as a circle fitting the lower part of the mask, converted to a path, then tweaked with the Node Editor to fit the top of the nose and add two nodes to pull the path inward on either side. In the unlikely event I make another bottle stand, the cut will be irrelevantly smoother.
The hole in the clamp comes from insetting that path by the flange width of 4 mm, whereupon the N95 mask pretty much self-centers in the hole:
They’re shortened by 1 mm (from the original length shown in the upper right) to fit 1 mm of mask sandwiched inside a pair of 3 mm acrylic sheets:
CPAP Dryer filter – Rivnut installed
The glowy edge-lit acrylic sheet has 4.8 mm holes for a snug push fit and the white clamp ring has 5.1 mm holes for a loose alignment fit. I drilled out the laser-cut holes for nice smooth sides.
I picked a bottle large enough to also hold the mask’s elbow, so that it would dry in the same stream of clean air. So far, the elbows dry well enough on their own, but the bottle remains a convenient size for fitting the mask on its end.
On the other end of the bottle, the lid gets a hose fitting turned from PVC pipe:
CPAP Dryer – filter hose fitting glue rings
The Official ResMed fittings on the masks and the AirSense 11 machine are about 20 mm long and just over 22 mm OD with a slight taper. The unheated hose has silicone rubber ends fitting very snugly around those cylinders, so I made the pipe fittings 25 mm long and 21 mm OD to ensure a low-effort, but still secure, fit.
The grooves cut into the fitting anchor a generous hot-melt glue blob sealing it to the lid:
CPAP Dryer – filter hose fitting inside
Yes, the foam disk and the hole through the lid were both laser-cut. Making perfect circles in thin organic material with zero drama is wonderful.
The downstream / mask end of the heated ClimateLine hose (left) is physically identical to the unheated hose ends, but the machine / upstream end (right) sports an electrical connector for the spiral heating element and the thermistor (in the white stud protruding into the mask end lumen):
ResMed ClimateLine heated hose ends
Yes, that does look a lot like a naked USB connector, as does the main power connection on the machine, and you can actually slide a Type A USB connector around it. The ResMed manual pointedly notes:
•Do not insert any USB cable into the AirSense 11 device or attempt to plug the AC adaptor into a USB device. This may cause damage to the AirSense 11 device or USB device. •The electrical connector end of the heated air tubing is only compatible with the air outlet at the device end and should not be fitted to the mask.
The four ribs inside the upstream end slide over a 23.5 mm cylinder, which is enough larger than the 22 mm cylinder on the machine to wiggle the not-USB connector into place. Without a connector to worry about, I turned a sleeve adapting the smaller fitting to those ribs:
CPAP Dryer filter – heated hose bushing
It’s 27 mm long to keep the lip of the silicone seal away from the setscrew, 23.5 mm OD to exactly fit between the ribs, and a 21.5 mm ID slip fit over the bottle snout.
The tiny M3 setscrew lives in a hole tapped into the inner tube, because the sleeve is only 1 mm thick:
CPAP Dryer filter – acrylic stand – bushing center drill
The setscrew turns outward into a clearance hole drilled in the sleeve to lock it in place.
The outer PVC pipe in the vise is a simple cylinder fixture bored to match the sleeve, so I could grab it in the lathe chuck / vise without distortion. Just the force from a normal grip squishes the fixture enough to keep the sleeve from turning / moving / getting annoyed.
Improving the MDF fan box awaits a few parts, but, being downstream, isn’t on the critical path for drying hoses. The only trick is keeping the bottle inlet upstream of the fan exhaust.
We have accumulated enough measuring spoons (typically from garage sales) to dedicate them for specific purposes, which means keeping them from wandering away:
Jar lid measuring spoon holders
The design is simple enough:
Jar lid measuring spoon holder – LB layout
The slot is a rounded rectangle about 2 mm larger than the spoon handle in both directions, inside a rounded rectangle large enough to put the handle just clear of the jar. The curved side comes from outsetting the jar lid OD by a millimeter (for the double-sided foam tape), then subtracting that circle from the holder.
So, yeah, they’re custom-made for the spoon and jar in hand.
For reasons not relevant here, a hand shower will come in mmm handy for a while in a month or two. The threads on its plastic diverter valve pretty nearly match those on the 70 year old iron pipe in the front bathroom, although the original brass shower head may have been installed by John Henry the Steel-Drivin’ Man.
In any event, you’re supposed to drill two screw holes in the wall for the holder, which is just not happening. Instead, scan the bottom of the holder and blow out the contrast for the next step:
Hand Shower bracket – scan
Yes, those holes are off-center in their molded bosses. They’re centered in their front recesses and I cannot imagine how, in this day and age of CAD everything, a designer could misalign the front and the back, but there it is.
A little cleanup produces a reasonable mask:
Hand Shower bracket – mask
The holes are centered in the outline, as you’d expect.
Import it into LightBurn, trace the perimeters, put those vectors on a tooling layer, and hand-draw a much simpler / smoother outline on the cutting layer. One of the vintage acrylic sheets is 1/4 inch thick, just enough for the shortest M4 brass inserts, so wrap the holes around the inserts:
Hand Shower bracket – LB layout
Some acrylic adhesive goops the inserts in place, although I’m not convinced it has enough pull strength in those slick holes:
Hand Shower bracket – mounting plate
When if it fails, I’ll rebuild the plate with an engraved ring around the back of each hole, along the lines of the earrings, and epoxy the inserts in place.
Double-sided foam tape will eventually stick the holder to the tile above the tub, but finding the proper location requires UX research.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 