The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Shoe Lace Ferrules

    A new pair of shoes arrived with extravagantly long laces requiring shortening. Years ago, I found heatshrink tubing completely unequal to the task, so I deployed Real Metal:

    Shoelaces with crimped ferrules
    Shoelaces with crimped ferrules

    The ferrules come from a kit of such things, minus their plastic strain relief:

    Ferrule terminals - hex crimper
    Ferrule terminals – hex crimper

    That’s a fancy hexagonal crimper for round-ish results. If you have a square terminal block, you should use the square crimper that comes with the kit.

    Worked perfectly and produced immediate customer satisfaction.

  • Toy Cast Iron Stove Lid Lifter

    This seemed appropriate for a day involving toys of all descriptions…

    A cast iron stove (most likely a mid-last-century reproduction rather than a Genuine Antique™) emerged from a living room recess:

    Toy stove with repaired lid lifter
    Toy stove with repaired lid lifter

    The line across the lid lifter handle shows where it broke, long ago, likely while being played with. Back then, I’d done a static-display-grade fix with a dab of clear epoxy, but a better repair seemed called for; my repair-fu has grown stronger.

    I expected the handle to be pot metal, so drilling a hole in both ends for a music-wire stiffener seemed reasonable:

    Toy lid lifter - laser alignment
    Toy lid lifter – laser alignment

    Much to my surprise, the carbide bit skittered off the surface, leaving fine swarf standing on the end. Turns out the lid lifter is cast iron, just like the rest of the stove!

    Given that much of a clue, I aligned the pieces in a pair of machinist’s vises:

    Toy lid lifter - alignment
    Toy lid lifter – alignment

    Slide apart (the vises stand on a smooth glass sheet; the nubbly side is down), dab silver solder flux on the ends, capture a snippet of 40% silver solder in the gap:

    Toy lid lifter - silver solder setup
    Toy lid lifter – silver solder setup

    Hit it ever so gently with a propane torch and slide together:

    Toy lid lifter - silver soldered
    Toy lid lifter – silver soldered

    The solder flows at 1200 °F = 650 °C, roughly corresponding to the blue-gray color near the joint. The nice purple (540 °C) on the left shows where I held the flame to start, with yellows (400 °C) on both sides. Good enough, sez I, it’s going to be a static-display exhibit.

    Most of the solder went to the back side, so I filed it smooth and buffed off most of the heat coloration with a stainless-steel wire wheel in the Dremel:

    Toy lid lifter - bottom
    Toy lid lifter – bottom

    A little more wire-brush action left the front side looking good:

    Toy lid lifter - top
    Toy lid lifter – top

    As with most of the repairs around here, it simply makes me feel better …

    Now, go play with your toys!

  • Chair Reupholstering

    We were tasked with replacing the foam cushion and seat covering on a pair of kitchen chairs. Removing the existing fabric seemed simple, until I pulled a dozen staples holding the cardboard cover to the bottom of the chair and exposed the fabric stapled to the MDF plate:

    Chair reupholstering - stapled fabric
    Chair reupholstering – stapled fabric

    That’s just part of one corner. Obviously, whoever built the chair wanted to be very very very sure the fabric didn’t come loose!

    Removing the staples from one corner produced a pile:

    Chair reupholstering - one corner of staples
    Chair reupholstering – one corner of staples

    Piling up all the staples from the other chair looked even more impressive:

    Chair reupholstering - staple pile
    Chair reupholstering – staple pile

    I fired maybe a third as many staples into the new fabric, which seems secure enough.

  • ShopVac vs. Samsung Vacuum Cleaner Bags

    While cleaning the filter in the 1 gallon ShopVac for the bandsaw and lathe, I found the last few bags from the never-sufficiently-to-be-damned and long-gone Samsung vacuum cleaner that seemed about the right size for upcycling:

    Shopvac vs Samsung vacuum cleaner bags - overview
    Shopvac vs Samsung vacuum cleaner bags – overview

    They’re a bit bulky:

    Shopvac vs Samsung vacuum cleaner bags - trial fit
    Shopvac vs Samsung vacuum cleaner bags – trial fit

    It’s surely not worth buying bags just to cut ’em up, but, with a stock on the shelf, why not?

  • Motel Room Safe: Whoops

    We spotted a pile of room safes in one of the motel stairwells:

    Motel Room Safes in stairwell
    Motel Room Safes in stairwell

    Judging from what we found in the room, it’s out with the old and in with the new:

    Motel Room Safes - mounting pedestal
    Motel Room Safes – mounting pedestal

    Too bad about the mounting pedestal, though: same size, different orientation.

    Something unexpected always lurks in the datasheet

  • Monthly Image: Wall Painting

    One day, long ago, this tree grew in a certain bedroom:

    Outlet tree
    Outlet tree

    And then a flower appeared in the laundry room:

    Outlet flower
    Outlet flower

    Much to our delight, she asked for forgiveness, not permission … which was, of course, granted immediately.

  • Astable Multivibrator: SMT LED Ballast Resistor

    The original astable multivibrator ran from a dead CR123 primary lithium cell:

    CR123A Astable - front
    CR123A Astable – front

    With a terminal voltage falling from barely 3 V, the LED drew about 3 mA (1 mA/div), tops, without a ballast resistor:

    Astable - CR123A 2.8 V - 1 mA -green
    Astable – CR123A 2.8 V – 1 mA -green

    Hacking in a charged NP-BX1 secondary lithium cell boosted the supply to 4 V:

    NP-BX1 Holder - SMT pogo pins
    NP-BX1 Holder – SMT pogo pins

    Which, diodes being the way they are, raised the LED current to nearly 400 mA (100 mA/div):

    Astable - NP-BX1 4V - base V - 100mA-div
    Astable – NP-BX1 4V – base V – 100mA-div

    Somewhat to my surprise, a few weeks of abuse didn’t do any obvious damage to the LED, but I added a resistor while I was soldering up another holder:

    Astable - 51 ohm SMD ballast
    Astable – 51 ohm SMD ballast

    There’s not quite enough room for a 1/8 W axial resistor, so why not blob in a surface-mount resistor?

    Which cuts the current down to a mere 15 mA (10 mA/div) from a lithium battery at 4 V:

    Astable - NP-BX1 - 51 ohm ballast - 10ma-div
    Astable – NP-BX1 – 51 ohm ballast – 10ma-div

    It’s still blindingly bright, but now I don’t feel bad about it.