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After about eight years and a similar failure last year, this came as no surprise: It’s a W5W “parking light” in the same fixture as the melty halogen high-beam bulbs (used as daytime running lights at half power), so it gets toasted on those occasions when we drive somewhere. The adhesive holding the LED strip…
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I unsoldered it and there’s no continuity: it failed open.
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You could, of course, buy a whole new shelf assembly, but it’s no longer available.
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You set the config code in Special Mode just like you set the LED driver bits in Normal Mode: shift ’em all in, then blip LE to latch ’em into the parallel holding register.
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The problem is that the current-versus-config-value curve has a non-monotonic discontinuity in the middle.
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The transparent top coating isn’t armor plating
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Finally, the Reset and TX pin pads simply tore loose from the circuit board.
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You should, of course, use a 3.3 V FTDI Basic board with a 3.3 V Pro, which would at least put two similar voltage sources head-to-head.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 