The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Oddities

Who’d’a thunk it?

  • CNC-3018XL X-Axis Recalibration

    CNC-3018XL X-Axis Recalibration

    Plotting the backlash / calibration target on both the CNC-3018XL and the MPCNC quickly showed, contrary to what I expected, the MPCNC was dead-on accurate, albeit with some wobbulation and a trace of backlash:

    MPCNC - Backlash test - detail
    MPCNC – Backlash test – detail

    Although it looks ug-u-lee, the (lower speed) drag knife cuts come out nice and, because the entry and exit moves match the main cut, the minimal backlash wasn’t a problem.

    Turns out only the X axis on the 3018XL had a problem:

    Cal Target - 400 step-mm - merged
    Cal Target – 400 step-mm – merged

    Apparently the longer leadscrew I installed as part of the “XL” conversion has a small thread pitch error: about 1 mm short in every 250 mm of travel. I don’t have any (definite, non-handwavy) method to measure the pitch directly, other than by running the follower nut and measuring the results, but it’s consistently short.

    Quite some time ago (after blowing up the OEM controller board), I set up the Protoneer CNC board in 1:8 microstep mode, making the GRBL $100 setting a nice, round 400 step/mm for a two-start leadscrew with 2 mm pitch and 4 mm lead:

    400 step/mm = (200 step/rev * 8 µstep/step) / 4 mm 

    After a few more measurements suggesting the leadscrew actually traveled 249.2 mm, the correct value will be:

    401.28 step/mm = 400 step/mm × 250 mm / 249.2 mm

    To verify I understood the problem and solution, I set $100 to a few integer values around the goal:

    Cal Target - stacked - 399-402 step-mm
    Cal Target – stacked – 399-402 step-mm

    The top image shows the leftmost line at the 10 mm mark on the scale, because it’s easier for me to match the ink line with an engraved line, rather than the non-line at the end of the ruler.

    The other images show the results for $100 set to 399, 400, 401, and 402 step/mm, respectively. The results last two results bracket the desired 250 mm outcome, with 401 step/mm being Close Enough™. GRBL accepts a floating point step/mm value, so I set $100 to 401.28, but I was unable to convince myself the result came out consistently different than 401.00.

    Plotting both the tick marks (green) and the knife path (red) on the 3018XL, then cutting the bare paper on the MPCNC, showed the two machines now agree on where the knife should fall. The outer end of the tick marks extends 1 mm beyond the cut line to ensure small misalignments do not produce an obvious white gap around the edge of the deck.

    The Y axis continues to match:

    Tek CC - 2022-02-14 - Y detail
    Tek CC – 2022-02-14 – Y detail

    And now the X axis looks just as good:

    Tek CC - 2022-02-14 - X detail
    Tek CC – 2022-02-14 – X detail

    The drag knife corners are rounded, as you’d expect. The cut seems slightly offset from a small origin touch-off error, but the scales now match.

  • Underwriter’s Knot

    Underwriter’s Knot

    Found inside a fluorescent desk lamp being salvaged for possible use as an LED task lamp:

    Fluorescent Desk Lamp - Underwriters Knot
    Fluorescent Desk Lamp – Underwriters Knot

    It’s one of the few Underwriter’s Knots I’ve ever seen in the wild. Many recent (i.e., built in the last half-century) lamps pass the cords through a plastic clamp or depend on simple bushings, with some just ignoring the problem.

    This anonymous lamp sports the usual Made in China sticker, but also features a genuine-looking UL sticker complete with elaborate holograms, so it may well have been sold by a reputable company. IIRC, it came from a trash can in a Vassar College hallway, back when in-person meetings were a thing; perhaps Vassar required known-good electrical hardware.

  • Inkjet Refilling: End of an Era

    Inkjet Refilling: End of an Era

    Just before the turn of the millennium, I bought what turned out to be a never-sufficiently-to-be-damned HP 2000C inkjet printer that served as my introduction to refilling inkjet cartridges. A few years later, a Canon S630 printer joined the stable and worked fine for perhaps five years before succumbing to a printhead death. An Epson R380 that might have cost fifteen bucks after rebate took over, drank maybe a gallon of knockoff ink through a continuous ink supply system during the next thirteen years, and finally suffered progressive printhead failure during the last year.

    Something recently changed in the inkjet market: Epson (among others) now touts their “Ecotank” printers featuring large internal reservoirs refilled by 70 ml bottles of color ink priced at perhaps 20¢/ml, obtained direct from Epson via Amazon. They proudly note you can save 90% off the cost of cartridges (“Kiss Expensive Cartridges Goodbye”), without mentioning how their previous extortionate cartridge business made that possible. Of course, Ecotank printers cost far more than cartridge-based printers, but that seems reasonable to me.

    Because the ink bottles fit neatly into the printer through a push-to-flow valve interlock, I can finally retire this relic:

    Inkjet refilling towel
    Inkjet refilling towel

    That’s maybe fifteen years of accumulated splotches.

    I hope my refusal to buy their cartridges helped immanentize their eschaton, just a little.

    Good riddance.

  • Mystery Not-Copper Line Cord

    Mystery Not-Copper Line Cord

    Harvesting a line cord for a widowmaker test setup revealed its inner secret:

    Mystery not-copper wire - as found
    Mystery not-copper wire – as found

    The conductors are as thin as I’ve ever seen in an AC line cord, with 0.5 mm² = just under 20 AWG. The color code doesn’t match USA-ian standards, but neither does the labeling, so I’m not surprised.

    If the individual strands seem unnaturally straight, they are, because they’re made of (presumably) copper plated on a (presumably) metallic core. Here’s what they look like after bending them sharply around my fingernail:

    Mystery not-copper wire - bending
    Mystery not-copper wire – bending

    Wonderfully springy, utterly non-magnetic, and surprisingly durable.

    Scraping the 0.02 mm strands with a sharp blade reveals a silvery interior, so it’s (presumably) not copper-coated plastic. Aluminum springs (ahem) to mind, but I’d expect tiny aluminum strands would snap (or at least deform) when bent and erode quickly when scraped.

    Each wire measures about 1 Ω / m from the plug (a convenient 40 inch = 1 m away), which is the resistance you’d get from a single hair-fine 5 mil = 0.13 mm strand of 35 AWG solid copper. An 18 AWG aluminum wire would have the same resistance as a 20 AWG copper wire, both of which should be 32 mΩ / m: a factor of 30 less than this crap.

    I have no idea what low-end Chinese factories use in place of copper, but it’s gotta be really cheap.

    A hank of the wire goes into the Box o’ Springs, in the event I ever need a tiny straight spring rod; you definitely can’t wind this stuff into a coil! It might be fine enough for a crosshair / reticle, at least for crude optics.

  • Euphorbia Horrida Flower

    Euphorbia Horrida Flower

    A Euphorbia horrida (one of the prickly plants) on the shelves just inside the front window burst into bloom:

    Euphorbia Horrida - flowers
    Euphorbia Horrida – flowers

    The flowery part looks unappetizing, but some critter must find the blooms attractive:

    Euphorbia Horrida - flower - side
    Euphorbia Horrida – flower – side

    The small reddish balls look like the desert equivalent of nectar, as they’re viscous to the point of solidity:

    Euphorbia Horrida - flower resin - top
    Euphorbia Horrida – flower resin – top

    I’m unwilling to experiment, but the resin ought to very sweet, lethally toxic, or wildly hallucinogenic. Maybe all three at once?

  • Tektronix AM503: Q230 Dual JFET Replacement

    Tektronix AM503: Q230 Dual JFET Replacement

    Some suggested 151-1032-00 replacements obviously won’t work, such as Tekwiki’s 2N5397 single JFET. Bonding a pair into a single heatsink might suffice, but two separate cans generally aren’t identical enough for the purpose.

    Curiously, Tekwiki also lists the 2N5911 as a 151-1032-00 replacement, which (being an actual dual JFET) looks more promising. This agrees with another cross-reference, although the “Sim[ilar] to” suggests considerable caution.

    The 2N5911 pinout, as taken from its datasheet:

    2N5911 Dual JFET pinout
    2N5911 Dual JFET pinout

    The actual Tek 151-1032-00 can in its heatsink, oriented with the tab at the top (just visible to the right of the heatsink fin):

    Tek 151-1032-00 - top view
    Tek 151-1032-00 – top view

    Testing one side (with the tab on the left):

    Tek 151-1032-00 test side A
    Tek 151-1032-00 test side A

    And the other side (tab still on the left):

    Tek 151-1032-00 test side B
    Tek 151-1032-00 test side B

    A picture being worth a kiloword:

    Tek 151-1032-00 - measured pinout
    Tek 151-1032-00 – measured pinout

    The drain and source over on the left side seem to be swapped compared to the 2N5911, although both gates are on the proper pins. This being a JFET, the source and drain may be electrically identical and it’s possible the tester labelled them backwards. The only way to be sure Tek wasn’t tragically clever is to poke around the PCB to figure out which pins connect to which other components.

    So take a picture of the component neighborhood around the Q230 sockets:

    PXL_20220105_210538214
    PXL_20220105_210538214

    Overlay it with a similar picture of the solder side, suitably reversed / recolored / transformed to match:

    Tek AM503 - 151-1032-00 area - X-ray traces
    Tek AM503 – 151-1032-00 area – X-ray traces

    The copper-side traces aren’t complete, as the red coloring marks only traces under the soldermask and omits bare solder-coated traces. Some traces on the component side run invisibly under parts. If I were doing it for money, not love, I’d pay more attention to the details.

    Devote some time to tracing the traces and labeling the parts:

    Tek AM503 - 151-1032-00 area - part IDs
    Tek AM503 – 151-1032-00 area – part IDs

    Then doodle out the actual connections:

    Tek 151-1032-00 - part connections
    Tek 151-1032-00 – part connections

    R246 shows Q230B lives in the left side of the can, because it’s connected between the B gate and B source pins, and confirms the tester swapped the B source and B drain pins. Whew!

    R236 connects the B drain and the A source, confirming the pinout matches the 2N5911.

    Comfortingly, the A side gate goes to all those other parts as it should.

    So a 2N5911 will drop right into the Q230 socket with the proper pins going to the proper places. Whether it’s electrically Close Enough™ to the Tek spec, whatever it might have been, remains to be seen, but a good transistor circuit won’t depend too much on the actual transistor parameters.

  • Blog Summary: 2021

    The overall page view count may be down, but people have been replacing water heater anode rods at an increasing pace:

    Home page / Archives23775
    Water Heater Anode Rod Access Done Right8432
    CNC 3018-Pro: GRBL Configuration5301
    G-Code and M-Code Grand Master List5049
    Why You Need a 6-Point Socket to Remove a Water Heater Anode Rod4300
    American Standard Elite Kitchen Faucet Disassembly2621
    Toyota Sienna: ABS Trouble Codes2531
    Raspberry Pi: Forcing VNC Display Resolution2011
    CNC 3018-ProXL: Y-axis Extension1641
    Subaru Forester Fuse Boxes1276
    Broom Handle Screw Thread: Replacement Plug1239
    Removing a Water Heater Anode Rod1221
    Auto-V.I.N Gauge Scam1029
    Low Budget Bench Power Supply984
    CNC 3018-Pro: DRV8825 Hack for 1:8 Microstep Mode980
    Kensington Expert Mouse Trackball: Scroll Ring Troubles929
    Whirlpool Water Heater “Lifetime” Warranty: The Good and the Bad917
    Digital Tattoo Power Supply: Polarity Doesn’t Matter912
    Bed Bugs: Thermal Kill908
    Review Phreesia Authorization834
    Huion H610Pro (V2) Tablet vs. Ubuntu 18.04821
    Kenmore 158.17032 Handwheel Clutch Disassembly799
    Shimano SPD Pedals: Creaking Resolved788
    2000 Toyota Sienna: Replacing the Bank 1 Sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor753
    Schwab / Symantec VIP Access vs. Yubikey751
    Toyota Sienna: Rear ABS / Speed Sensor Failure729
    HP-48GX Calculator Disassembly: Case Rivets688
    Reversible Belt Buckle: Post Restaking683
    Kensington Expert Mouse Scroll Ring Fix629
    Makerbot-style Endstop Power Adapter for Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield616
    Displaying Variables in Gnuplot614
    Kohl’s Guest WiFi Terms & Conditions: The Short Version613
    Replacing Phil Wood Hub Bearings595
    Magnesium Water Heater Anode Rod: Seven Years Later576
    Adding a Device to LTSpiceIV564
    Philips Sonicare Essence 5000: Battery Replacement550
    Browning Hi-Power Magazine Dimensions545
    MPCNC: Emergency Stop / Feed Hold / Resume Pendant544
    Raspberry Pi Interrupts vs. Rotary Encoder538
    CNC 3018-Pro: Home Switches534
    Resistance Soldering: Transformer510
    Adafruit Touch-screen TFT LCD Rotation489
    Quick-and-easy IR-passing / Visible-blocking Optical Filter476
    Dis-arming a Steelcase Leap Chair471
    Icecast and Ezstream Configuration470
    Why You Shouldn’t Use Heat Pumps in the Northeast US465
    Baofeng UV-5R Squelch Settings460
    Mini-Lathe Tailstock: Alignment449
    Homebrew Magnetizer-Demagnetizer446
    Arduino Serial Optical Isolator444
    Mysterious Noise in Toyota Sienna Minivan: Fixed!444
    Baofeng UV-5: Squelch Pop Suppression434
    bCNC Probe Camera Calibration432
    Demolition Card GTA 5-10-9431
    Multimeter Range Switch Contacts: Whoops!425
    Realigning Tweezer Tips421
    Schwalbe Marathon Plus and Michelin Protek vs. Glass Chip418
    Kenmore Model 158 Speed Control: Carbon Disk Replacement417
    Kenmore Electric Dryer: Power Resistor Replacement416
    Old Kenmore Sewing Machine Foot Control Repair414
    Closing the Dmesg Audit Firehose400
    Blog Page Views

    That adds up to 200 k page views from 122 k visitors, for an average of 1.6 pages / visitor, down slightly from last year. For a variety of reasons, I wrote only 242 posts over the course of the year, so more folks read only the single post matching their search terms.

    To give you an idea of how awful online advertising has become, WordPress shoveled 817 k ads at those readers, slightly more than four ads per view. Given the toxicity of online advertising, I just started paying $50/year for a “personal” plan to get a few more gigabytes of media storage, which also let me turn off the ads. Most of you won’t notice, as you already run ad blockers, but it will calm the results for everybody else.

    Fortunately, losing the $250 / year income from those ads won’t significantly affect my standard of living.