The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Gapped Ferrite Toroid: 5 A Calculations

    Using a Hall effect sensor to report on the Kenmore 158’s universal motor current puts different limits on the ferrite toroid than the LED current sensor: higher current, bigger wires, and mandatory galvanic isolation. One could, of course, just buy an Allegro ACS713/4/5 (or whatever) sensor from, say, Digikey, but, for a one-off project, it’s more interesting to run the numbers and build the thing.

    The motor winding resistance limits the peak current to about 200 V / 40 Ω = 5 A, in the absence of the transistor current limiter, and, if it gets above that, things have gone very, very wrong. Mostly, I expect currents under 1 A and it may be useful to reduce the full scale appropriately.

    The cheap eBay “SS49” Hall effect sensors I’m using produce anywhere between 0.9 and 1.8 mV/G; I’ll use 1.4 mV/G, which is at least close to the original Honeywell spec. That allows a bit over ±1000 G around the sensor’s VCC/2 bias within its output voltage range (the original datasheet says minimum ±650 G), so I’ll use B = 1000 G as the maximum magnetic flux density. The overall calibration will be output voltage / input current and I’m not above doing a one-off calibration run and baking the constant into the firmware.

    The effective mean path length turns out to be a useful value for a slit toroid:

    effective MPL = (toroid MPL - air gap length) + (µ · air gap length)

    The SS49 style sensor spec says they’re 1.6 mm thick,  and the saw-cut gaps run a bit more, but 1.5 mm will be close enough for now.

    The relation between all those values:

    B = 0.4 π µ NI / (effective MPL)

    Solving for NI:

    NI = B · (eff MPL) / (0.4 π µ)

    Solving for N:

    N = B · (eff MPL) / (0.4 π µ I)

    You always round up the result for N, because fractional turns aren’t a thing you can do with a toroid.

    FT50-61 toroid:

    • µ = 125
    • Saturation B = 2350 G
    • MPL = 3.02 cm
    • Effective MPL = (3.02 – 0.15) + (125 · 0.15) = 21.6 cm
    • N = 28 turns

    A somewhat larger FT82-43 toroid:

    • µ = 850
    • Saturation B = 2750 G
    • MPL = 5.26 cm
    • Effective MPL = (5.26 – 0.15) + (850 · 0.15) = 133 cm
    • N = 25 turns

    The saturation flux density seems to be measured at H = 10 Oe, but that applies to the intact toroids. The air gap dramatically reduces the effective µ, so you must apply a higher H to get the same B in the ferrite at saturation. At least, I think that’s the way it should work.

    H = 0.4 π NI / (geometric MPL)

    Then:

    • FT50-61: H = 58 Oe
    • FT82-43: H = 30 Oe

    I’m surely missing some second-order effect that invalidates all those numbers.

    Figuring the wire size for the windings:

    FT50:

    • ID = 0.281 inch
    • Circumference = 0.882 inch
    • 28 turns → wire OD = 0.882/28 = 31 mil
    • 20 AWG without insulation

    FT82:

    • ID = 0.520 inch
    • Circumference = 1.63 inch
    • 25 turns → wire OD = 1.63/25 = 65 mil
    • 14 AWG without insulation

    Of course, the wire needs insulation, but, even so, the FT82 allows a more rational wire size.

    Page 4.12 of the writeup from Magnetics Inc has equations and a helpful chart. They suggest water cooling a diamond-bonded wheel during the slitting operation; my slapdash technique worked only because I took candy-ass cuts.

    A table of magnet wire sizes with varying insulation from Cooner Wire.

    Some general notes about building & measuring inductors from the University of Denver.

    Doodles for the FT82-43:

    FT82-43 Doodles
    FT82-43 Doodles

    Doodles for the FT50-61:

    FT50-61 Doodles
    FT50-61 Doodles

    Running the numbers using the Magnetics Inc equations:

    Ferrite Gap Doodles
    Ferrite Gap Doodles
  • Bike Helmet Boom Mic: Assembly

    After building the mic mount, another dab of epoxy mounted the length of AWG 10 wire I said I wouldn’t use:

    Bike Helmet Mic Boom - rod epoxy
    Bike Helmet Mic Boom – rod epoxy

    The whole point of the complex mount is to expose the two noise cancelling holes on the back of the electret element:

    Bike Helmet Mic - electret element rear
    Bike Helmet Mic – electret element rear

    Add heatstink tubing over the entire length of the boom wire, use more black cable ties, shape another foam ball:

    Bike Helmet Mic Boom - installed
    Bike Helmet Mic Boom – installed

    And it worked on the first try, not that there’s much to it.

    Yeah, that’s the HDR-AS30V camera mount up top: dork mode in full effect.

  • Bathroom Sink Drain Pop-Up: The Rot Continues

    Once again, the black bathroom sink drain stopper stopped popping up. Having had this happen once before, I knew what I would find:

    Corroded bathroom sink drain lever
    Corroded bathroom sink drain lever

    The lever arm to the left of the ball should be about twice that long, minus the jagged end.

    I slid the ball rightward to expose more rod, introduced both ends to Mr. Bench Grinder to round them off, scuffed up the short end with sandpaper to improve its griptivity, then slobbered on enough JB KwikWeld to cover the entire length of rod that will live inside the drain:

    Epoxy-coated bathroom sink drain lever
    Epoxy-coated bathroom sink drain lever

    The first failure took 9 years, this one took 4…

    Memo to Self: Next time, replace the rod with something that doesn’t corrode.

     

  • Kenmore 158: Pulley Form Tool FAIL

    Mulling over how to add a 1/rev sensor to the sewing machine motor, it occurred to me that simply drilling a hole through the pulley would provide a clean optical path and a convenient 2/rev output signal.

    However, the OEM pulley doesn’t extend beyond the end of the shaft:

    Kenmore 158 - AC drive motor - overview
    Kenmore 158 – AC drive motor – overview

    Rather than drill a hole in the shaft or (attempt to) affix something onto a pulley that spins at 10 kRPM, I figured I should make another pulley and mutilate that.

    Because this will surely call for more than one new pulley before I get everything right, a lathe form tool seemed in order. Introducing a suitable blank from the Bin o’ 1/4 Inch Bits to Mr. Bench Grinder produced a likely looking candidate, with an included angle of about 35° (a skosh over 17° on each side) and sized just a wee bit narrower than the pulley groove.

    From the top:

    Pulley form tool - top
    Pulley form tool – top

    From the side:

    Pulley form tool - side
    Pulley form tool – side

    Skim the surface of a 5/8 inch rod to match the pulley OD, plunge a cutoff tool to make most of the cut, insert bit in holder, align perpendicular to workpiece, line up to center of cut, slobber on more cutting lube:

    Pulley form tool - prepared blank
    Pulley form tool – prepared blank

    Plunging the tool slowly into the cut produces … no chips … nothing … smoke?

    Come to find out that the Bin o’ 1/4 Inch Bits contained not just lathe tool bits & blanks made from tool steel, but one length of 1/4 inch square key stock made from ordinary soft steel:

    Pulley form tool - damage
    Pulley form tool – damage

    I should have known that from the type of sparks flying off the grinding wheel, right?

    You knew that just from looking at the first picture, because a real lathe bit blank wouldn’t be all beat to shit…

    Drat!

  • Large Spool Adapter: Right-angle Version

    Mary recently learned that large spools of thread have a cross-wound lay that should feed over the end, not from the side as do ordinary stack-wound spools. So I built a right-angle adapter that fits over the not-quite-vertical spool pin on the sewing machine and aims directly at the thread tensioner:

    Large spool adapter - on sewing machine
    Large spool adapter – on sewing machine

    The solid model shows off the fluted rod that passes through the spool:

    Large Spool Adapter - solid model - mount
    Large Spool Adapter – solid model – mount

    It’s more impressive from the other end:

    Large Spool Adapter - solid model - spool end
    Large Spool Adapter – solid model – spool end

    The first pass at the rod had six flutes, but that seemed unreasonably fine; now it has four. The round base on the rod provides more griptivity to the platform while building and has enough space for the two alignment pins that position it in the middle of the dome:

    Large Spool Adapter - solid model - alignment holes
    Large Spool Adapter – solid model – alignment holes

    The dome gets glued to the rod base plate:

    Large spool adapter - clamped
    Large spool adapter – clamped

    The spool pin hole is a snug fit around the pin on the sewing machine, because otherwise it would tend to rotate until the spool pointed to the rear of the machine. The fluted rod is a snug friction fit inside the (cardboard) spool. Some useful dimensions:

    • Spool pin (on Model 158): 5 mm OD, 40 mm tall
    • Large spool cores: 16 mm ID, 27 mm OD, 70 mm long

    I had all manner of elaborate plans to make an expanding fluted rod, but came to my senses and built the simple version first. If that rod isn’t quite big enough, I can build another adapter, just like this one, only slightly larger. The source code includes a 0.5 mm taper, which may suffice.

    Back in the day, shortly after the Thing-O-Matic started producing dependable results, one of the very first things I made was a simple adapter to mount large spools on the pin in the most obvious way:

    Large spool adapter - old TOM version
    Large spool adapter – old TOM version

    Now we all know better than that, my OpenSCAD-fu has grown stronger, and the M2 produces precise results. Life is good!

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Large thread spool adapter
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - August 2014
    
    Layout = "Show";			// Build Show Spindle Spool
    
    Gap = 10.0;					// between pieces in Show
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 4 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    AlignPinOD = 1.70;			// assembly alignment pins: filament dia
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    LEN = 0;											// subscripts for cylindrical objects
    ID = 1;
    OD = 2;
    
    Spindle = [40.0,5.0,14.0];							// spool spindle on sewing machine
    Spool = [70.0,16.0,27.0];							// spool core
    
    Taper = 0.50;										// spool diameter increase at base
    
    CottonRoll = [65.0,Spool[OD],45.0];					// thread on spool
    
    Mount = [Spindle[LEN],(Spindle[ID] + 4*ThreadWidth),1.0*Spool[ID]];
    
    Flutes = 4;
    Flange = [2.0,Spool[OD],Spool[OD]];
    
    ScrewHole = [10.0,4.0 - 0.7,5.0];					// retaining screw
    
    PinOC = Spool[ID]/4;								// alignment pin spacing
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //- Locating pin hole with glue recess
    //  Default length is two pin diameters on each side of the split
    
    module LocatingPin(Dia=AlignPinOD,Len=0.0) {
    	
    	PinLen = (Len != 0.0) ? Len : (4*Dia);
    	
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((Dia + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    
    	translate([0,0,-2*ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((Dia + 1*ThreadWidth),4*ThreadThick,4);
    		
    	translate([0,0,-(Len/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(Dia,(Len + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Spindle 
    
    module SpindleMount() {
    
    	render(convexity=4)
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    			resize([0,0,Mount[OD]])							// spool backing plate
    				translate([0,CottonRoll[OD]/2,0])
    					sphere(d=CottonRoll[OD],center=true);
    			translate([0,CottonRoll[OD]/4,0])				// mounting post
    				rotate([90,0,0])
    					cylinder(d=Mount[OD],h=CottonRoll[OD]/2,center=true);
    		}
    		
    		translate([0,(2*Mount[LEN] - Protrusion),Mount[OD]/4])				// punch spindle hole
    			rotate([90,0,0])
    //				PolyCyl(Spindle[ID],2*Mount[LEN],6);
    				cylinder(d=Spindle[ID],h=2*Mount[LEN],$fn=6);
    				
    		for (i=[-1,1]) {									// punch alignment pin holes
    			translate([i*PinOC,CottonRoll[OD]/2,0])
    					LocatingPin(Len=Mount[OD]/3);
    		}
    				
    		translate([0,0,-CottonRoll[OD]])					// remove half toward spool
    			cube(2*CottonRoll[OD],center=true);
    	}
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Spool holder
    
    module SpoolMount() {	
    
    	difference() {
    	
    		union() {
    				
    			translate([0,0,(Flange[LEN] - Protrusion)])
    				difference() {
    					cylinder(d1=(Spool[ID] + Taper),d2=Spool[ID],h=Spool[LEN],$fn=2*Flutes);						// fit spool ID
    					
    					for (a=[0 : 360/Flutes : 360-1])						// create flutes
    						rotate(a + 180/Flutes)
    							translate([Spool[ID]/2,0,-Protrusion])
    								rotate(180/16)
    								cylinder(r=Spool[ID]/4,h=(Spool[LEN] + 2*Protrusion),$fn=16);
    								
    					translate([0,0,(Spool[LEN] - ScrewHole[LEN])])			// punch screw hole
    						PolyCyl(ScrewHole[ID],(ScrewHole[LEN] + Protrusion),6);
    
    				}
    			cylinder(d=Flange[OD],h=Flange[LEN]);							// base flange
    		}
    		
    		for (i=[-1,1])												// punch alignment pin holes
    			translate([0,i*PinOC,0])								//  ... orients solid flange up
    					LocatingPin(Len=Flange[LEN]);	
    	}
    
    }
    
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Spindle") {
    	SpindleMount();
    }
    if (Layout == "Spool") {
    	SpoolMount();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	translate([0,Mount[OD]/4,2.0]) {
    		rotate([90,0,0])
    			SpindleMount();
    		translate([0,Gap,CottonRoll[OD]/2])
    			rotate([-90,0,0]) rotate(90)
    				SpoolMount();
    	}
    	color("Orange") {
    		translate([0,0,2])
    			cylinder(d=Spindle[ID],h=Spindle[LEN],$fn=6);
    		cylinder(d=Spindle[OD],h=2.0,$fn=18);
    	}
    		
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([-5,0,0])
    		rotate(90)
    			SpindleMount();
    	translate([Flange[OD]/2,0,0])
    			SpoolMount();
    }
    
  • Easy Reacher Pack: New Elastic Cord

    The elastic cord behind the left-side under-seat Easy Reacher pack on my Tour Easy snapped some time ago, probably due to wear against the brace I installed to keep it from flopping around. Quite contrary to what I expected, the repair turned out to be almost trivially easy.

    The cord terminates in a pair of plastic lugs, each with a ferrule that slipped off under moderate persuasion to reveal a pair of wedges that engaged the cord:

    Easy Reacher pack - elastic cord clamp
    Easy Reacher pack – elastic cord clamp

    I expected the ferrule to have a positive lock engaging those wedges, but, nope, there’s (at most) a small ridge. Pry the wedges out and the cord slides out of the lug without a protest; the wedges don’t quite meet in the middle with the ferrule in place and there’s plenty of retention force on that flexy cord.

    One of the shorter bungie cords in my collection turned out to be exactly the right diameter and length, with ends secured in its hooks using a simple crimped wire. Bending the ends of the wire at right angles freed the cord from its embrace:

    Easy Reacher pack - unclamping new elastic cord
    Easy Reacher pack – unclamping new elastic cord

    The original stainless steel hook lies by the edge of the road along my usual bicycling route, but a slightly reshaped S hook (made, alas, of ordinary steel) fits around the cord well enough. When this one rusts away, I have plenty more.

    Insert cord into lugs, push ferrules over locking wedges, remove one ferrule and lug, install reshaped S hook, reinstall lug and ferrule, install new cord on pack:

    Easy Reacher pack - new elastic cord
    Easy Reacher pack – new elastic cord

    Install pack on bike: done!

    I have no explanation for how well this worked out; I fear the Universe is saving up spit for something truly awful.

  • Tour Easy Kickstand Adapter Plate

    The venerable Greenfield kickstand on my Tour Easy doesn’t quite match the mounting plate under the frame, with the result that it can pivot just enough to make the bike tippy with a moderate load in the rear panniers. I’ve carried a small block to compensate for sloping ground, but I finally got around to fixing the real problem.

    The solution turned out to be a spacer plate that fills the gap between the back of the kickstand casting and the transverse block brazed to the mounting plate:

    Tour Easy kickstand adapter plate
    Tour Easy kickstand adapter plate

    That little lip is 2 mm wide, so it’s not off by much.

    The aluminum came from a Z-shaped post that contributed its legs to a previous project. I flycut the stub of one leg flush with the surface, then flycut a slot 2 mm from the edge:

    Tour Easy kickstand adapter - flycutting recess
    Tour Easy kickstand adapter – flycutting recess

    For no reason whatsoever, the width of that slot turned out exactly right.

    Bandsaw along the left edge of the slot, bandsaw the plate to length, square the sides, break the edges, mark the actual location of the mounting plate hole, drill, and it’s done!

    An identical Greenfield kickstand on Mary’s identical (albeit smaller) Tour Easy (the bikes have consecutive serial numbers) fits perfectly, so I think this is a classic case of tolerance mismatch.