Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Looks rather grotendous in there, doesn’t it? Yeah, show me the interior of your fork…
The front is at the top, blade on the left and crown on the right. The little shiny rectangle at 1 o’clock on the crown was probably the last fragment holding the blade in place.
Quite some time ago, Sophi gave me a common-anode RGB LED panel and told me to make something of it. In a spate of desk-clearing, I hammered out a quick-and-dirty multiplexed display from found materials: 2N2907 transistors as row source drivers and 74HC595 shift registers abused as column sink drivers, plus the obligatory Arduino Pro Mini and 3D printed holder:
Random LED Dots – circuit board
A sheet of milk-white acrylic diffuses the glittery LED dots into pastel disks. I think it might look better without the diffuser; it certainly has a harder-edged tech look:
Random LED Dots – overview – no diffuser
A neutral-density filter would boost the contrast without hiding any of the details.
It obviously needs an enclosure, but, around here, that’s in the nature of fine tuning.
The transistors and shift registers cower under the panel:
Random LED Dots – circuit layout – top
The bottom view exposes the hand wiring, plus the slot required to adapt the LED panel’s non-100-mil layout to the protoboard’s holes. I chopped out the slot with a Dremel saw, attached socket strips to the panel, and epoxied the floating strip in place:
Random LED Dots – circuit layout – bottom
The prospect of wiring 32 discrete resistors filled me with dread, so I just tombstoned SMD resistors onto the protoboard solder blobs:
Random LED Dots – circuit layout – RB SMD resistors
The slot required slightly longer bridge wires:
Random LED Dots – circuit layout – G SMD resistors
The layout, such as it is, made those short, direct wires possible. A PCB with SMD chips would be even better.
A view from the wheel side shows the crack in my Tour Easy’s fork lug had opened a bit more to the rear, which is about what you’d expect from the forces involved:
Tour Easy – cracked fork lug
Removing the handlebar stem from the fork steerer tube requires removing the fairing, its mounting brackets, the fender, a speed sensor, then snipping cable ties to release all the cables and wires. Minus the prep work, removing the fork from the bike isn’t anything special.
The lower bearing (a YST 8311N in black) has rollers, not balls. The headset has J.I.S. 1 inch dimensions, captured in a screen grab to forestall link rot:
YST 8311N headset data
Which means cheap & readily available ISO standard headsets aren’t a drop-in replacement. The incomparable Harris Cyclery has J.I.S. ball-bearing headsets in stock and their Tange Levin CDS HD1002 needs just 1.6 mm of additional washer to match the YST’s 35 mm stack height…
The front side of the crown got rather graunched over the last 14 years, but I punted the problem by rotating the race half a turn to put the eroded spots toward the rear, where they’ll be under minimal stress:
Tour Easy crown bearing – damage
Re-seating the race brought an ancient Headsetter tool from the drawer:
Tour Easy fork with Headsetter
It’s basically galvanized pipe, chamfered on one end, with a set of nuts & washers on a length of all-thread rod just slightly too short for the occasion: this might be the second time I’ve used the thing and I had to supply my own all-thread & nuts. Ah, well, it probably predates the Tour Easy’s design by a decade.
The lower headset race looked to be in pretty good shape, so I left it alone. Normally, such bearing damage gives you indexed steering, but Tour Easy handlebars provide so much lever arm that nothing interferes with the bike’s steering.
The new fork didn’t have a notch for the keyed washer isolating the locknut from the upper bearing race. The usual advice is to file off the key and apply threadlocker, which makes adjusting the two nuts tedious, so I restored the notch in the steerer threads:
Tour Easy – filed steerer tube key slot
Yes, that’s a lethally sharp steel shaving from the not-very-well-reamed ID curling up in the middle of the notch.
The fender mount bridge on the new fork sits half an inch higher in relation to the brake bosses, putting the fender against the V-brake cable hardware. Anything touching the V-brake messes up the pad-to-rim alignment, so I conjured a snippet of aluminum to lower the fender just enough to clear the brakes:
Tour Easy – new fork – fender extender
I think that calls for a nice 3D printed bracket, too, but the snippet got me back on the bike faster. When I preemptively replace the fork on Mary’s bike, then I’ll do a proper bracket for both of us.
The garish red silicone tape replaces the previous black cable ties. It matches the tube paint surprisingly well and doesn’t look good on the fork, so I’ll replace it with cable ties in due course.
A few miles of shakedown riding settled the crown race against the fork, another 1/6 turn of the upper race / lock nut snugged up the bearings, and it’s all good again.
Wow, it’s great to be back on the bike!
(Due to the vagaries of writing this stuff up ahead of time, there’s actually two weeks of realtime between the post that appeared on Monday and this one.)
I’d rounded the end of that steel rod, it stands behind the sewing machine, and blah blah blah. He was right: it needed a bead. That’s a fancy one pilfered from our Larval Engineer’s stash, held in place by a blob of fast-cure epoxy.
Selah.
The safety pin atop the bobbin on the left spool pin feeds the thread into the machine’s upper thread guide at the proper angle to make it all work; a direct line from the spool holder hook isn’t quite right.
The fairing on my Tour Easy started making unusually loud booming sounds while we were out on an errand, so when we got home I poked around the front end to see what had worked itself loose. I finally managed to produce the sound, which turned out to be due to a very small motion in the fork:
Cracked Tour Easy Fork
That’s after 14 years and maybe 30,000 miles, so I’d say it did pretty well, all things considered.
On an upright bike a front fork failure kills you: the broken blade rotates forward, jams into the ground, and flips you over the handlebars. I rode about 8 miles with a broken fork and nothing exciting happened.
The Tour Easy’s design dates back to the mid-1970s, when custom bike parts weren’t readily available, and the front fork seems sized for 26 inch tires. A tubular bridge welded across just over the 20 inch (37-406) tire provides a fender mount, stiffens the blades, and, in my case, acts as a second bridge. On my bike, the fork supports the polycarbonate fairing and the Phil Wood hub provides an absolutely rigid connection between the blade dropouts.
For reference, the headset uses J.I.S 1 inch dimensions, with a 27.0 mm ID crown bearing. The stack height runs around 35 mm, but I don’t know the head tube ID.
A pair of forks are on their way; I’ll replace the one on Mary’s bike before it fails…
Quite some years ago, I added a wire shelf to the bottom of the “pantry” closet to hold odds-and-ends. The most recent deep-cleaning cycle required removing the shelf, which required removing the mounting brackets to get the fool thing out of the closet.
The backside of one bracket shows I had a bit of trouble matching the mounting holes to the wall anchors:
Pantry wire shelf brackets – overview
The lower bracket bears some advice from my Shop Assistant:
Pantry wire shelf brackets – detail
Check thrice
Measure twice
Cut once
From what little we hear these days, she’s learned the value of always checking her work…