Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
This worked surprisingly well to lay out black foam gaskets for new fairing mounting plates:
Black foam layout with ceramic fabric pen
Mary uses the Fons & Porter Mechanical Pencil to mark quilting patterns on fabric. It has, they say, a “strong ceramic 0.9MM white lead” with “water-soluble dyes” capable of both laying down a durable mark and washing out without leaving a trace. I don’t care about the latter, of course, but it did brush off reasonably well.
The next step involved running an X-Acto knife around the perimeter of the plate and punching the holes.
You can get colored ceramic leads (for small values of color) for use on other backgrounds.
With the information you shared, we were able to successfully model and reconstruct the drive wheel in only a couple of days.
One useful thing we discovered is there’s a lot of room for error – so long as the pin catches and the wheel isn’t slipping on the motor shaft, the mechanism will work. The grooves and the interior radius of the original part aren’t critical.
Because of your heads up about Geneva wheels, I found this excellent website – https://newgottland.com/2012/01/08/make-geneva-wheels-of-any-size/ – which includes a link to a Geneva wheel calculator. With the measurements you sent and a measurement off of the pen carousel, the calculator generated near perfect dimensions for a replacement. There was a little sanding and rounding to fit but it was certainly within tolerance.
Interestingly, the pieces of the drive wheel that I pulled out of the case revealed a small hidden detail. On the underside, there’s a collar around the motor shaft that gives the cam an extra ~.03″ thickness. Presumably this is to help reduce friction during travel. Our prototype doesn’t take this detail into consideration – we’ve had no issues with friction, and we compensated for the thickness by making the pin a little longer – but it’s meaningful to note.
HP7475A Carousel Drive – cam1
The broken pieces also confirmed the thicknesses and radii of the original part, and so my partner was able to build an accurate technical drawing of the drive wheel for future fabrication.
While we intend to make a better replacement, our prototype was built with dense 1/8″ mat board, PVA glue, binder clips, and a short piece of wooden dowel from our bits box. Basically just stuff we had kicking around the studio. It’s held up shockingly well. A little dented around the edges from hitting the carousel, but there’s no slippage. I’m thinking I’ll use it until it falls apart, just to see how long it takes.
HP7475A Carousel Drive – repaired – cam2
Attached, find a technical drawing comparing the original drawing to our prototype (measured in good old fashioned 1980s inches); a photo of the retrieved piece, showing the collar on the reverse side; and a photo of the prototype in place. Feel free to share these – everyone deserves a working plotter!
7475a drive wheel
Once the carousel was working, my roommate – an electrical engineer – hooked me up with a custom serial cable, a Raspberry Pi, and a crash course in Python, so now that I can communicate with the plotter, the possibilities are staggering. I’m thrilled to add this machine to my print studio arsenal!
Over the course of those six years I’ve ridden about 6 × 2500 = 15000 miles, maybe more, maybe less. I can ride at 15 mph for a while, but 12 mph seems a more reasonable overall estimate, making for a bit over 1000 hours. Figure the bike spends that much time sitting outdoors at the far end of the ride and you’re looking at what 2000+ hours of sunlight does to ABS.
In addition to discoloration, the plates have become brittle, as shown in the chips in third one down, and permanently deformed due to the pressure of the nylon bolts compressing the black foam against the fairing.
A closer look at the top plate:
ABS Fairing Plates – 6 years – detail
My 3D print quality has improved a lot since then.
New plates of a different design are, as NASA puts it, “in work”.
The pix come from the new LiDE 120 scanner. It does a good job with the color, but has (for good reason) an essentially zero depth of field: if it’s not on the glass, it’s out of focus.
Anker LC40 flashlights can use either one lithium 18650 cell or an adapter holding three AAA cells. I now prefer 18650 cells, but they’re nigh onto 4 mm smaller than the flashlight ID and rattle around something awful.
Our long-suffering kitchen scale lost a pair of feet, most likely becausethose two feet do most of the skidding as we slide it onto a shelf below a cabinet. The scale has (well, had) six silicone rubber feet:
Amazon EK3211 Scale – OEM foot
The vagaries of color photography turned a neutral-gray silicone disk into that weird blue.
A pair of ¼ inch disks punched from non-skid textured rubber tape fit perfectly into the recesses:
Amazon EK3211 Scale – tread foot
Now, we’ll see how tread adhesive withstands the same abuse.
Despite having sworn a mighty oath to the contrary, I found myself doing this again:
Clothes Rack – end clamp
A strut on the other end of the dowel split across its face:
Clothes Rack – split clamp
The white stuff is wood-filled epoxy, normally used to repair rotted wood, left over from another project. I’ll claim this tests its mechanical strength against peeling forces.
Easily determined by inspection: a sensible person would toss the rack, but …
The plotter I received works beautifully, except that the carousel doesn’t rotate. I found a YouTube video showing a 7475a running with the cover off, and there’s a little plastic piece – it looks like a teardrop – that advances the carousel, and is apparently part of the carousel motor assembly. Mine is missing that piece …
The keyword is Geneva drive, a wonderfully simple technique to convert one rotation of the stepper motor into 1/6 turn of the pen carousel, with no need for fancy sensors.
Back in the day, you could get the entire Pen Carousel Housing Assembly w/ Motor (PN 07475-60175) as a unit and the Carousel Motor Only(PN 3140-0687) as a separate thing, but not the Geneva drive wheel:
HP7475A Carousel – Geneva drive cam
The cam’s drive wheel end (in inches, because early 1980s):
0.25 thick overall
0.10 thick plate under pin end
1.09 OD – rounded end
The pin sticking up from the cam:
0.154 OD (or fit to slot?)
0.16 tall (above base plate)
I have no good (i.e., easy + accurate) way to measure the distance from the motor shaft to the pin, but I doubt it’s critical. As long as the pin doesn’t quite whack the hub end of the slot, it’s all good:
HP7475A Carousel – cam driving
The 0.10 plate + 0.16 pin height don’t quite add up to the 0.25 overall measurement, but that’s certainly measurement error. I’d round the pin length downward and carve the drive from a 1/4 inch sheet.
A 3D printed part would probably work, apart from the accuracy required to fit the D-shaped motor shaft. Perhaps a round hole, reamed to fit the shaft, carefully aligned / positioned, with epoxy filling the D-shaped void, would suffice. A dent in the round hole would give the epoxy something to grab.
I’d be sorely tempted to use an actual metal / plastic rod for the pin, rather than depend on a stack of semi-fused plastic disks. The pin must withstand hitting the end of the “missing” slot during the power-on indexing rotation, because turning the carousel isn’t quite a non-contact sport. Normally, though, it enters the end of the slot without much fuss:
HP7475A Carousel – cam engaging
The blocked slot sits at the bottom of that picture, with a small locating pin sticking upward just above the circular feature at the end of the arm: we’re seeing the negative of a plug inserted into the original injection mold.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 