The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • Schauer Solid State Battery Charger: Digital Meter Retrofit

    Schauer Solid State Battery Charger: Digital Meter Retrofit

    The Forester’s battery has been on life support from an ancient Schauer “Solid State” charger (which may have Come With The House™) for the last year:

    Schauer battery charger - analog ammeter
    Schauer battery charger – analog ammeter

    A remote Squidwrench session provided an opportunity to replace its OEM ammeter with a cheap volt-amp meter:

    Schauer battery charger - digital meter
    Schauer battery charger – digital meter

    The charger is “solid state” because it contains silicon electronics:

    Schauer battery charger - solid state components
    Schauer battery charger – solid state components

    That’s an SCR implanted in the aluminum heatsink. The other side has a Motorola 18356 house number, a date code that might be 523, and the word MEXICO. The company now known as NXP says Motorola opened its Guadalajara plant in 1969, so they could have built the SCR in either 1973 or 1975; it’s not clear who manufactures what these days.

    The black tubing contains at least one part with enough value to justify the (presumably) Kovar lead; nowadays, it would be a “gold tone” finish. It’s probably a Zener diode setting the trickle-charging voltage, joined to the resistor lead in the crimped block. I don’t know if the glass diode is soldered to the Zener, but I’m reasonably sure if the third lead came from a transistor tucked inside the sleeve, we’d read about it on the charger’s front cover.

    In an ideal world, a digital meter would fit into a matching rectangular hole in the front panel, but that’s not the world we live in. After wrestling my gotta-make-a-solid-model jones to the floor, I got primal on a random slab of soft-ish plastic sheet:

    Schauer battery charger - bezel nibbling
    Schauer battery charger – bezel nibbling

    There’s nothing like some bandsaw / belt sander / nibbler action to jam a square peg into a round hole:

    Schauer battery charger - bezel test fit
    Schauer battery charger – bezel test fit

    It’s actually a firm press fit; whenever something like that happens, you know the project will end well.

    Hot melt glue FTW:

    Schauer battery charger - digital meter wiring
    Schauer battery charger – digital meter wiring

    The new meter’s (heavy) red-black leads go to the same terminals as the old meter’s wires, paying attention to the polarity. I splurged with insulated QD terminals on the old wires where a joint was needed.

    The meter’s thin red lead expects to see a power supply under 50 V with no particular regulation requirements, so I used the same flying-component design as the rest of the charger:

    Schauer battery charger - meter power supply
    Schauer battery charger – meter power supply

    The meter draws basically no current, at least on the scale of an automotive battery charger, so the 220 µf cap holds pretty nearly the peak 18 V half-wave rectified from the center tap by a 1N5819 Schottky diode.

    Those two squares riveted to the back panel are genuine selenium rectifiers, from back in the day when silicon power diodes weren’t cheap and readily available. They also limit the charger’s peak current and have yet to emit their incredibly foul stench upon failure; you always know exactly what died when that happens.

    Selenium rectifiers were pretty much obsolete by the early 1970s, agreeing with a 1973 date code. Schauer might have been working through their stockpile of obsolete rectifiers, which would have been sunk-cost-cheap compared to silicon diodes.

    The meter’s thin black lead goes to the power supply common point, which turns out to be where those rectifiers meet. The larger black wire goes off to the meter’s fat black lead on the other side of the aluminum heatsink, joining it in a new insulated QD terminal.

    The meter’s thin yellow wire is its voltage sense input, which gets soldered directly to the hot lead of the SCR.

    The meter indicates DC voltages and currents, which definitely isn’t the situation in the 100 Ω power resistor shown in the second picture.

    The voltage:

    Schauer battery charger - voltage waveform
    Schauer battery charger – voltage waveform

    And the current at 20 mA/div, showing why silicon replaced selenium:

    Schauer battery charger - current waveform
    Schauer battery charger – current waveform

    Yes, the current does go negative while the rectifiers figure out what to do next.

    The charger seems a little happier out in the garage:

    Schauer battery charger - in use
    Schauer battery charger – in use

    The battery holds the voltage steady at 13.7 V, with the charger producing 85 mV blips every second or so:

    Schauer battery charger - float V pulse
    Schauer battery charger – float V pulse

    Those blips correspond to 3 A pulses rammed into the battery:

    Schauer battery charger - float A pulse - 1 A-div
    Schauer battery charger – float A pulse – 1 A-div

    They’re measured across a 1 Ω series resistor that’s surely limiting the maximum current: 18 V from the transformer minus 13.7 V on the battery minus other IR losses doesn’t leave room for anything more than 3 V across the resistor. I wasn’t going to haul the Tek current probes out to the garage just for the occasion.

    Opening the Forester’s door to turn on all its LED interior lights bumps the meter to about 1 A, although the truth is more complicated:

    Schauer battery charger - loaded A pulse - 1 A-div
    Schauer battery charger – loaded A pulse – 1 A-div

    The average current is, indeed, just under 1 A, but in this situation the meter’s cool blue number seems more like a comfort indicator than anything particularly reliable.

    All I really wanted from the meter was an indication that the trickle charger was trickling, so I disconnected Tiny Scope, declared victory, and closed the garage door.

  • Blog Impulse Response: Water Heater

    Blog Impulse Response: Water Heater

    Somebody posted a Reddit comment linking to my post about a sensibly implemented water heater anode rod, with predictable results:

    Blog Impulse - 2021-03
    Blog Impulse – 2021-03

    Reddit’s New Hotness has a half-life well under a day, although a steady trickle of incoming traffic will continue forever: The Internet Never Forgets.

    Protip: forcing Reddit URLs to old.reddit.com eliminates the user-hostile site layout. Manual tweaking suffices for my very few visits; you can find browser extensions for on-the-fly rewriting.

  • Juki JC-001 Foot Control: Resolving Uncommanded Thread Cutting

    Juki JC-001 Foot Control: Resolving Uncommanded Thread Cutting

    Mary’s most recent quilt arranges her color choices in Judy Niemeyer’s Stellar Snowflake pattern:

    Stellar Snowflake Quilt - in progress
    Stellar Snowflake Quilt – in progress

    Her Juki TL-2010Q sewing machine has a built-in thread cutter activated by pressing down on the heel end (to the left) of the foot control:

    Juki JC-001 Foot Control - overview
    Juki JC-001 Foot Control – overview

    The machine had previously performed “uncommanded” thread cuts on other projects, but the many short segments in this pattern triggered far too many cuts. I aimed a camera at her foot on the pedal and she was definitely not pressing down with her heel when the cutter fired.

    In point of fact, the thread cutter fired when she was just starting a new segment, where she was gently pressing down on the toe end (to the right) of the pedal to start at the slowest possible speed.

    For completeness, the underside of the pedal:

    Juki JC-001 Foot Control - bottom
    Juki JC-001 Foot Control – bottom

    There are no screws holding it together. The top cover pivots on a pair of plastic pegs sticking out from the base near the middle of the cable spool. Disassembly requires jamming a pair of husky Prydrivers in there and applying enough brute force to pry both sides outward farther than you (well, I) think they should bend. This will scar the bottom of the case, but nobody will ever notice.

    The foot control cable plugs into the machine through what looks like an ordinary two-conductor coax plug, just like the ones on wall warts delivering power to gadgets around the house. In this day and age, the communications protocol could be anything from a simple resistor to a full-frontal 1-Wire encrypted data exchange.

    Based on the old Kenmore foot pedals, I expected a resistive control and, indeed, a simple test gave these results:

    • Idle = 140 kΩ
    • Heel pressed (cut) = 46 kΩ
    • Toe slight press (slow running) = 20 kΩ
    • Toe full press (fast running) = 0.2 kΩ

    We can all see where this is going, but just to be sure I pried the top off the control to reveal the insides:

    Juki JJC-001 Foot Control - interior
    Juki JJC-001 Foot Control – interior

    The two cylindrical features capture the ends of a pair of stiff compression springs pressing the top of the pedal upward.

    The small, slightly stretched, extension spring in the middle pulls the slider to the left (heelward), with a ramp in the top cover forcing it to the right (toeward) as the speed increases.

    The top cover includes a surprisingly large hunk of metal which may provide enough mass to make the pedal feel good:

    Juki JC-001 Foot Control - top underside
    Juki JC-001 Foot Control – top underside

    The ramp is plastic and the slider has a pair of nylon (-ish) rollers, so there’s not much friction involved in the speed control part of motion. Yes, this is oriented the other way, with the heel end over on the right.

    The metal insert pivots in the serrated plastic section near the middle, with the two husky extension springs visible on the left holding it against the plastic cover. The two rectangular features on the left rest under the plastic flanges on the right of the base to prevent the metal insert from moving upward, so pressing the heel end down pulls the cover away from the insert to let the slider rollers move toward the right end of the ramp, into roughly the position shown in the interior view.

    A closeup look at the slider shows the rollers and the PCB holding all of the active ingredients:

    Juki JC-001 Foot Control - Resistor Slider
    Juki JC-001 Foot Control – Resistor Slider

    I think the trimpot adjusts the starting resistance for the slider’s speed control travel. It is, comfortingly, roughly in the middle of its range.

    A top view shows the fixed 140 kΩ resistor (brown yellow black orange, reading from the right) setting the idle resistance:

    Juki JC-001 Foot Control - PCB top view
    Juki JC-001 Foot Control – PCB top view

    Measuring the resistance while gently teasing the slider showed that it’s possible to produce a resistance higher than 20 kΩ and lower than 140 kΩ, although it requires an exceedingly finicky touch and is completely unstable.

    Before looking inside the pedal, we thought the cutter was triggered by an actual switch closure with the heel end most of the way downward against those stiff springs, which meant the failure came from a switch glitch. Now, we think the earlier and infrequent uncommanded thread cuts trained Mary to start very carefully to be very sure she wasn’t glitching the cutter’s hypothetical switch. Of course, her gradually increasing toe pressure moved the slider very slowly through its idle-to-running transition: she was optimizing her behavior to produce exactly the resistance required to trigger the cutter.

    She now sets the machine’s speed control midway between Turtle and Hare to limit its top speed, presses the pedal with more confidence to minimize the time spent passing through the danger zone, and has had far few uncommanded thread cuts. We think it’s now a matter of retraining her foot to stomp with conviction; there’s no hardware or software fix.

    I’m sure Juki had a good reason to select the resistances they did, but I would have gone for a non-zero minimum resistance at the fast end of travel and a zero-resistance switch to trigger the cutter.

  • Ed’s Low-Effort High Traction Bread

    Ed’s Low-Effort High Traction Bread

    Being that type of guy, perhaps I snug the plastic film over the top of the mixing bowl a bit too securely:

    Yeast at work
    Yeast at work

    The dough descends from my High-Traction Bread, prepared with my low-effort version of the NY Times no-knead recipe.

    The current dramatis personae:

    • 2 cups whole wheat flour (coarse grind OK)
    • 1 cup bread flour
    • ½ cup rye flour
    • ½ cup whey protein (dry milk powder OK)
    • 1 tsp yeast
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1-½ cup warmish water

    Let the mixer work on the dry ingredients for a while, then slowly pour the water into the bowl. The dough will (probably) become a thick batter, which is perfectly OK. Cover with plastic wrap as above, let it sit from afternoon until the next morning, plop the dough / batter on a floured silicone sheet, chivvy it into a lump, cover with the wrap, let it sit for a couple more hours.

    Fire the oven to 450 °F, get the pot crazy hot, plop the lump inside, cook 25 minutes covered and 10 more uncovered, dump on a rack, slice off a QC sample, slather with butter, enjoy.

    Makes a 700 gram = 24 ounce loaf lump: 1600 kcal, 320 g carb, 90 g protein. A serving might be a scant two ounces: 135 kcal, 26 g carb, 7 g protein.

    Not keto-oid, but it’ll keep you warm in the Basement Laboratory.

    You may safely ignore all recommendations concerning exact times, temperatures, and suchlike; this ain’t no damn fainting-flower souffle.

    You could get used to it …

  • X10 RR501 Transceiver: Heat Death

    X10 RR501 Transceiver: Heat Death

    Must be something in the air:

    X10 RR501 Transceiver - overheated Zener
    X10 RR501 Transceiver – overheated Zener

    Another overheated Zener in another shunt power supply!

    This BZY97C is still a diode, although I didn’t test its 68 V breakdown spec. I have no idea what they’re doing with that much juice inside an X10 RF box and have nowhere near enough interest to find out.

    It still doesn’t work after a Laying On of Hands: out it goes.

  • Fuvaly Bucked Lithium AA Cells

    Behold lithium battery technology, a USB charger, and a buck voltage converter mashed into an AA alkaline package:

    Fuvaly Bucked Lithium AA - label
    Fuvaly Bucked Lithium AA – label

    Those are two of a quartet bought from a randomly named Amazon seller to appease my ancient venerable classic Sony DSC-H5’s need for more voltage than new and freshly charged NiMH AA cells can provide for more than a few tens of minutes.

    The label claims 1500 mA·h, not the 1120 mA·h I measured:

    Fuvaly Bucked Li AA - mAh - 2021-02
    Fuvaly Bucked Li AA – mAh – 2021-02

    My numbers would be higher with a load less than 500 mA. I doubt the 2.5 A maximum current rating.

    The claim of 2.25 W·h is rather optimistic:

    Fuvaly Bucked Li AA - 2021-02
    Fuvaly Bucked Li AA – 2021-02

    Back of the envelope: 2.25 W·h at 1.5 V equals 1.5 A·h, all right. If you squint carefully, though, the output voltages run around 1.4 V, some of which is surely IR drop in my battery holder & test wiring, but it still knocks nearly 10% off the wattage and doesn’t seem to add to the runtime.

    The camera’s battery charge indicator will obviously show Full right up until it shuts off, but I’ve always carried a spare pair of cells in my pocket anyway.

    Recharging them with a USB meter in series required 425 to 600 mA·h at about 4.8 V, so about 2.5 W·h.

    Enlarging the instructions from the back of the box, should they become useful:

    Fuvaly Bucked Lithium AA - Instructions
    Fuvaly Bucked Lithium AA – Instructions

    Nowhere does the package mention the “brand name”, manufacturer, specifications, or much of anything substantial. I suppose anybody selling white-label products appreciates this level of detail.

  • LED Bulb: Mechanical FAIL

    LED Bulb: Mechanical FAIL

    Replacing the second torchiere lamp shade required unscrewing its 100 W equivalent LED bulb, which required far too many turns and eventually felt sufficiently wrong to reveal the problem:

    LED Bulb - unscrewed base
    LED Bulb – unscrewed base

    The entire metal base shell unscrewed from the plastic housing and twisted off the lead from what looks like a PTC fuse in series with the center contact; the cute little pigtail effect suggests I’ve wrecked the epoxy-to-wire seal.

    It had a five year warranty which, alas, expired three years ago. This style of bulb has fallen out of favor, so I may as well get some Quality Shop Time out of it.

    I don’t know how the factory machinery attached the lead to the contact button, but I’m going to go primal on it with some solder. The trick will be soldering it after assembly, so the first step is to drill through the middle of the button.

    Grab it nose-down in the Sherline’s three-jaw chuck, flip it over, grab the chuck in the drill press vise, line it up, center-drill the button, then drill right through that sucker:

    LED Bulb - base drilling setup
    LED Bulb – base drilling setup

    Of course, the contact came loose from the base, because I pretty much drilled right through the rivet flange holding it in place:

    LED Bulb - removed center contact
    LED Bulb – removed center contact

    Nothing a dab of epoxy can’t fix, though. I scuffed up the outside of the contact to remove the nickel (?) plating and expose the underlying brass to improve its solderability.

    After the epoxy cured, align wire with hole, screw the base onto the lamp shell, and it’s ready for soldering:

    LED Bulb - base ready for solder
    LED Bulb – base ready for solder

    The hole is way too large for the wire, but I wasn’t about to wreck a tiny drill on what might have been a weld nugget. In any event, the bigger the blob, the better the job:

    LED Bulb - soldered base
    LED Bulb – soldered base

    Just like light bulb bases used to look, back in the day.

    With a bit of luck, it’ll sit in that socket for another seven years.

    It could happen, ya never know.