The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • Detergent Cap Holder

    Although chain mail provides a good test of the M2’s setup and slicing parameters, it doesn’t offer much in the way of infill. To test that, I designed a holder for the cap of the bulk laundry detergent container:

    Detergent Cap Holder - in place
    Detergent Cap Holder – in place

    The container must rest on its side, but if you snap the cap back in place, detergent will ooze out between the cap and the container and drip on whatever’s below. The never-sufficiently-to-be-damned Whirlpool high-efficiency front loading washer vibrates like crazy during the spin cycle, shaking anything from its top to the floor. The cap must sit in a cup to catch the inevitable ooze down its side, the wire shelf already has a bunch of other crap on it, and I needed a bulky test object, soooo ….

    We regard that detergent container and its cap as a botched design.

    Anyhow.

    The holder has pair of holes in its back surface for the copper (!) hangers:

    Detergent Cap Holder - solid model - rear
    Detergent Cap Holder – solid model – rear

    I stripped a length of 10 AWG wire, straightened & annealed it, bent up a pair of hooks, then hammered them just flat enough to work-harden the copper, and they were all good.

    Printing that massive block with 20% infill showed that the nozzle collected enough PETG during the first few layers to leave a substantial booger behind:

    Detergent cup holder - oxidized PETG
    Detergent cup holder – oxidized PETG

    Fortunately, that was the only one and it ended up on the inside, tucked out of sight.

    The PETG deposit on the outside of the nozzle gradually darkens from the original magenta to brown, which I’m pretty sure means that it’s oxidizing / decomposing / going bad. There’s no obvious way to remove the booger during the print; I’ve taken to wiping the nozzle after each object, while it’s still hot and the PETG remains flexible.

    Because the nozzle didn’t accumulate any more PETG during the rest of the print, it’s not a constant problem, but I have seen boogers several times so far.

    Perhaps continued refinement of the slicing parameters will help? One can always hope…

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Detergent Cap Holder
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - March 2015
    
    Layout = "Show";			// Show Build
    
    //-------
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1; 				// make holes end cleanly
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //-------
    // Dimensions
    
    RecessX = 45.0;								// cap recess
    RecessDia = 55.0;
    RecessDepth = 10.0;
    RecessSides = 16*4;
    
    BaseThick = 5.0;							// block thickness below cap
    
    PinDia = 2.5;
    PinLength = 20.0;
    PinOC = 65.0;
    PinInset = 7.0;
    PinZ = BaseThick;
    
    Block = [RecessX,PinOC + 2*PinInset,30.0];	// overall block size (X to cap center)
    
    FairingRadius = Block[2] - RecessDepth - BaseThick;
    
    //-------
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(95 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module Holder() {
    	difference() {
    		union() {									// main shape
    			translate([-Block[0]/2,0,Block[2]/2])
    			cube(Block,center=true);
    			cylinder(d=Block[1],h=Block[2],$fn=RecessSides);
    		}
    		for (j=[-1,1])								// mounting pin holes
    			translate([-(Block[0] + Protrusion),j*PinOC/2,PinZ])
    				rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
    					PolyCyl(PinDia,PinLength + Protrusion,6);
    		translate([0,0,Block[2]])					// fairing arc
    			rotate([90,0,0])
    				cylinder(r=FairingRadius,h=2*Block[1],center=true);
    		translate([Block[0]/2,0,Block[2]/2 + RecessDepth + BaseThick])	// flat top
    			scale([1,2,1])
    				cube(Block,center=true);
    		translate([0,0,BaseThick])
    			cylinder(d1=RecessDia,d2=1.1*RecessDia,h=Block[2]);
    	}
    }
    
    //-------
    // Build it!
    
    //ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	Holder();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([0,0,0])
    	rotate([0,0,0])
    	Holder();
    }
    
  • LED Bulb in High-Vibration Environment

    The garage door opener just ate another rough-duty bulb, so let’s see how a $7 LED bulb fares:

    Walmart 60 W LED Bulb - garage door opener
    Walmart 60 W LED Bulb – garage door opener

    It has no external heatsink fins and the color temperature looks just like the old-school incandescent bulb it’s replacing, so they’re getting a clue about what’s acceptable to ordinary folks.

    That’s equivalent to a 60 W incandescent bulb, too, at least according to the package:

    Walmart 60 W LED Bulb - package data
    Walmart 60 W LED Bulb – package data

    I love the “Return the package and reciept for replacement or money back” part…

  • Bookleting a PDF with Landscape Pages

    For reasons not relevant here, we had to make a booklet out of a PDF file that contained several wide tables that should print in landscape mode, but were tagged as portrait pages. As a further complication, the pdftops utility I normally use complained vociferously about nearly every page:

    Syntax Warning: FoFiType1::parse a line has more than 255 characters, we don't support this
    

    A bit of fiddling produced this recipe, with pdf2ps in place of the usual pdftops:

    pdfcrop --margins "36 0 10 0" FileName.pdf 
    pdftk FileName-crop.pdf rotate 41-46east output FileName-crop-rotate.pdf
    pdf2ps -dLanguageLevel=3 -sPAPERSIZE=letter -dFIXEDMEDIA FileName-crop-rotate.pdf FileName-crop-rotate.ps
    ps2book.pl -f 1 FileName-crop-rotate.ps
    ps2pdf FileName-crop-rotate_book.ps
    

    The gymnastics in pdf2ps forces letter-size pages, no matter what the internal size specifies.

    That was not particularly obvious, but hooray for pdftk…

  • Kenmore 158: Bobbin Winder Repair

    For reasons which are, trust me on this, not relevant here, we now have a third Kenmore 158 sewing machine: a freebie that sat under a roof leak in an unused room some years ago and wasn’t cleaned before being stored. Even though not much water got inside the covers, the bobbin winder shaft froze solid.

    Two black screws hold it to the cover and provide a slight adjustment of the tire-to-handwheel distance:

    Bobbin Winder - old tire
    Bobbin Winder – old tire

    Prior to this adventure, I soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for a week or two, but to no avail.

    I didn’t take any before-the-repair photos, but it looked like this afterward, with the new tire installed…

    From the top right (looking over the handwheel):

    Bobbin Winder - assembled - top right
    Bobbin Winder – assembled – top right

    Notice the small rectangular hole just below the larger section of the shaft in the protruding part of the pot metal housing. That’s supposed to be an oil hole, but it’s also a fine water inlet.

    From the top left:

    Bobbin Winder - assembled - top left
    Bobbin Winder – assembled – top left

    The two obvious screws remove the obvious parts, but beware the compression spring:

    Bobbin Winder - fill sense lever
    Bobbin Winder – fill sense lever

    And the torsion spring:

    Bobbin Winder - drive latch
    Bobbin Winder – drive latch

    Some experimentation with a strap wrench rotated the wheel on the (still firmly frozen) shaft, which suggested the joint was a press fit without a setscrew, splines, or adhesive.

    Grabbing the shaft lightly in a machinist’s vise, resting it atop the bench vise, and giving it a few shots with a drift punch drove it downward through the housing:

    Bobbin Winder - driving out spindle
    Bobbin Winder – driving out spindle

    More gentle beating produced this heartrending scene:

    Bobbin Winder - corroded shaft
    Bobbin Winder – corroded shaft

    Water just isn’t any good at all for unlubricated steel in a pot-metal bushing…

    Anyhow, the shaft & housing cleaned up well, although they look a tad grody, and everything went back together in the reverse order.

    I added a drop of light oil through the lube port, chucked the shaft in the drill press, spun it for a minute at low speed to wear off a slight binding, and it’s all good again.

  • Kenmore 158: Bobbin Winder Tires

    The bobbin winder atop the Kenmore 158 sewing machine has a rubber tire that contacts a ribbed ring on the inside surface of the handwheel; the clutch knob disengages the main shaft and you run the motor at top speed. As you’d expect, both age and wear take their toll on the rubber, to the extent that the winder on Mary’s machine stopped turning. I swapped it for the slightly less decrepit winder on the Crash Test Dummy, but that was obviously a stop-gap measure.

    I mistakenly thought the metal wheel consisted of two plates that clamped a rubber disk in place, with no possibility of removal:

    Bobbin Winder - old tire
    Bobbin Winder – old tire

    The fact that the spare parts list didn’t include the rubber disk helped convince me.

    Eventually, I stumbled over replacement “tires” on, of course, eBay that suggested how to dismount them:

    Bobbin Winder - wheel and tires
    Bobbin Winder – wheel and tires

    Yup, that sucker slides right off.

    Anyhow, the replacements seem to be standard industrial O-rings, rather than the original tire with a flattened rim:

    Bobbin Winder - old vs new tire
    Bobbin Winder – old vs new tire

    The new tires measure 28.94 mm OD on the bench (I don’t trust that last digit, either) and 29.56 mm OD installed. The (hardened and cracked) old tires measure 29.94, 30.06, and 30.28 mm OD on the bench; that’s a radius anywhere from 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm larger. The winder’s mounting screws provide a very small adjustment range that helps a bit.

    Knowing that I needed an O-ring, I checked the assortment of “standard size” O-rings I bought many, many years ago, which once again failed to offer up anything suitable. To the best of my knowledge, that kit has never had the right size; apparently, every application uses a different standard.

    The O-ring definitely puts less rubber on the handwheel than the tire, but seems to drive the bobbin winder well enough to fill a handful of bobbins without any of the previous drama.

  • End and Beginning of the Computer Glasses

    Having repaired these once before, I wasn’t too surprised when this happened:

    Eyeglasses - broken nose bridge wire
    Eyeglasses – broken nose bridge wire

    Evidently the “titanium” has fatigued, because the repair lasted barely nine months.

    Rather than try to fix them again, I sent my new prescriptions halfway around the planet and, a bit under two weeks later, had three glasses: normal, computer, and sun. This time, I went with 38 mm tall lenses, a heavier nose bridge, and traditional aviator sunglasses.

    For the record, the regular prescription was:

    Normal prescription - 2014-12

    Tweaking that by +0.75 diopter on the sphere puts my far point focus on the monitors across the desk and backing -0.75 diopter from the adder keeps the same near-point reading correction:

    Computer prescription - 2014-12
    Computer prescription – 2014-12

    They’re all no-line progressive bifocals made from 1.57 high-index plastic with anti-reflection coating, for a grand total of $135 delivered.

    That being only slightly more than the estimated cost of fixing one broken Silhouette frame temple, Mary will try living in the future, too.

  • Incandescent Bulb Lifetime

    One of the four 40 W bulbs in the classic 1955 fixture over the front bathroom mirror burned out, leading to this discovery:

    40 W bulb - lifetime
    40 W bulb – lifetime

    Yup, I installed that bulb in late September 1998, when we repainted that bathroom (for the first time since the original owners painted it in 1955). Getting a decade and a half from an incandescent bulb in regular use ain’t all that bad, sez I. Two other bulbs appeared in mid 2014, replacing bulbs with barely 6 years of service. Inexplicably, the third bulb has no date; I must be slipping.

    Having burned through the 40 W bulb stash, I put two 60 W incandescents in the center sockets, leaving me with four new-old-stock bulbs on the shelf. Might be a lifetime supply for this house…