Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Large quilting projects require lots of thread, beyond the capacity of the previous spool adapter, so we came up with a different solution:
Large spool holder
These are cheap & readily available from the usual sources, but recent reviews indicate that the “metal” base has become plastic and the build quality isn’t anything to rejoice over. My feeling is that if it’s going to become a shop project anyway, I should just conjure something suitable from the heap.
The base is a random plastic project box that came with a flimsy sheet-steel top, which I replaced with a rectangle of 0.1 inch = 2.5 mm aluminum plate for more heft. The box is filled with 1.5 pounds of wheel weights, so it’s not going anywhere on its own. The silicone rubber feet probably don’t add much to the project, but why not use ’em?
The feed hook started life as copper-flashed welding filler rod, smooth to the thread and pleasant to the eye, sitting in a hole drilled into a stainless steel 10-32 screw. It’s long enough to feed the thread just above the Kenmore’s top surface. A hook works better than an eyelet: just pass the thread over the hook and you’re done.
The central shaft is a wood dowel, shaped & sanded on the (metal) lathe, held in place by another 10-32 screw. Inside the spool sits a length of “3/4 inch” CPVC pipe (ID = 0.7 inch, OD = 0.875 inch, gotta love those plumbing measurements) that’s a sloppy fit in the just-over 1 inch spool ID.
The smaller spools fit directly on the dowel, perhaps atop the CPVC sleeve.
This seems to work OK, but I’m going to trim the dowel down to just over the length of the spool, so the thread will feed without touching the wood. I thought stacking the smaller spools atop the CPVC sleeve made sense, but that turned out to not be the case.
Took about an hour to conjure with found materials and without a hint of 3D printing…
But, as before, most of the corrosion is close to the top end. The rest of the rod was covered with a thick mineral scale that I hammered off, then scuffed the rod with a shoe rasp to expose some metal.
Clearing off the shelves produced a book I haven’t opened in a loooong time:
Vector Mechanics for Engineers – cover
The price sticker shows that textbooks have always been expensive:
Vector Mechanics for Engineers – price tag
The first line looks like a date and, indeed, I took “Principles of Mechanics” in Spring 1974, so that book would cost $88.08 in 2015 dollars, based on the official CPI calculator.
It’s harder to figure college costs, but the old rule of thumb says it’s a factor of two higher than the CPI. A bit of successive approximation with a compound interest calculator suggests an annual inflation of 3.9% and 7.8% says the book would cost $403 today.
Which, it turns out, isn’t all that much higher than what our Larval Engineer has been paying for the fatter textbooks in her engineering courses.
Even using today’s worthless dollars, that’s still a chunk o’ change…
Memo to Self: As the bumper sticker puts it, “If you think education is expensive, try ignorance.”
As we expected, the remaining temple of Mary’s Silhouette glasses broke, a bit over a year from the previous repair, and this repair proceeded along the same lines as the previous fix.
I don’t recall having to do quite this much filing to make the screws fit, but they don’t call ’em “needle files” for nothin’:
Silhouette temple repair – filing screw holes
Trim the tube to the proper length by chucking it in the Sherline, rotating the spindle by hand, and filing a notch just below the jaws:
Silhouette temple repair – trimming tube
Then file the end flat, countersink it just a bit, and ream out the hole to fit the broken end of the earpiece. This one didn’t quite fit the tubing, but we’re talking a few mils of tolerance on a bent piece of titanium. Rough up the end of the earpiece, degrease everything, and a few dabs of epoxy suffice for another Steampunk repair:
Silhouette temple repair – finished
The original fix continues to hold, but … this can’t go on.
I’d originally secured the rear fender to the steel strap connecting the chainstays on Mary’s Tour Easy with a cable tie: small, simple, light weight, reliable. Unfortunately, that put the end of the fender just slightly lower than the strap and, I fear, sprayed water all over the strap, where it worked its way through a paint flaw and rusted the steel under the paint. A simple metal clip would chew its way through the pain[t] on the strap, so, seeing as how we’re living in the future…
The C-shaped block on the top grips the steel cross-strap, the trough fits the fender’s curve, the little spider supports the inside of the nut recess, and a pair of alignment pin holes (one visible) help during gluing:
Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket – solid model – show
Although it’s tempting to 3D print both parts as a single unit, laying them out like this aligns the threads for best strength in each piece:
Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket – solid model – build
Pressing the bracket on the glass slab (flat side up, nubblies on the bottom) with the clamps in place finished the job. The slightly crushed support spider from the nut recess sits in the foreground:
Tour Easy rear fender bracket – gluing
Magenta PETG matches the red Tour Easy paint surprisingly well:
Tour Easy – rear fender bracket – installed – top
From below, you can see why the top block can’t extend all the way to the bottom of the fender mount:
Tour Easy rear fender bracket – installed
That rubber boot needs replacing in the worst possible way, but I didn’t have anything suitable on hand and wouldn’t dismount that cable even if I had; cables never go back on properly.
Alas, because the brakes weren’t mounted when I did the measurements, I had to build one to find out why a long block wouldn’t work:
Tour Easy rear fender bracket – long back
The screw atop the block (on the left in that picture) presses a small plastic slug against the steel strap, in the hopes it won’t chew through the paint quite as rapidly. The screws & nuts are stainless, so at least they’ll survive for a while.
The curve in the trough comes from the chord equation applied to these crude measurements:
Tour Easy Rear Fender Bracket – measurement doodle
Fortunately, it’s tucked into a spot where nobody ever looks…
Well, another year, another deep-cleaning session, another break in the strut holding up the drawers in the Whirlpool refrigerator:
Whirlpool refrigerator drawer strut – clamped
This time, there’s a fixture positioning the tab in the proper orientation while the solvent evaporates. The two bottom clamps hold an aluminum plate against the top (far side) of the strut, with the top-center clamp holding the tab against a steel block shimmed with cardboard to get the correct angle. The other two clamps squash the tab against the joint, which is well-soaked with IPS 4 adhesive.
I replaced the right-side guide plate, originally made from phosphor bronze strip, with some thicker steel strip. The bronze strip collapsed into the worn section of the plastic bump that appeared in the previous post:
Refrigerator strut – worn retainers
I’ve written bigger caution messages on the top of the strut in red letters, but we think it’s getting on time for a whole new refrigerator…