The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Kenmore 158: Hall Effect Pedal Connector

    Built back in 2004, the Dell GX270 PC had PS/2 keyboard and mouse ports on its back panel, so I put a PS/2 plug on the cable from the Hall effect sensor in the foot pedal. Although the original sockets mounted on a complex system board structure that I can’t repurpose, it’s easy enough to conjure up a mount for a single socket on the back panel:

    PS2 Socket Mount
    PS2 Socket Mount

    A quick fit check verified the dimensions:

    PS2 Connector mount - trial fit on platform
    PS2 Connector mount – trial fit on platform

    Astonishingly, the socket slid firmly into its slot. I love it when that happens on the first try!

    The flat plate in front of the mount snaps into the chassis cutout to locate the 2-56 screw hole positions:

    PS2 Mount - drill guide
    PS2 Mount – drill guide

    The screws thread directly into the mount, with the holes tapped for 2-56. PLA isn’t all that strong, but there’s enough meat to hold the mount firmly enough for my simple purposes.

    And it looks pretty good, in a post-apocalyptic missing-windows sort of way:

    PS2 Connector mount - in place
    PS2 Connector mount – in place

    That was easy…

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // PS/2 Socket Mount
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - October 2014
    
    Layout = "Build";			// Build Socket Guide
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    AlignPinOD = 1.70;			// assembly alignment pins: filament dia
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    Socket = [14.1,13.3,13.0];	// PS/2 socket outline, minus tabs & wires on bottom
    
    Flange = 6.0;
    
    WallThick = IntegerMultiple(2.0,ThreadWidth);
    
    Mount = Socket + [2*Flange,WallThick,WallThick];
    
    ScrewTap = 1.90;			// 2-56 tap for machine screws
    
    ScrewOC = 19.0;
    
    echo(str("Screw OC: ",ScrewOC));
    
    ChassisHole = [13.0,13.0,1.0];
    GuideLayers = IntegerMultiple(0.5,ThreadThick);
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-- Build the mount
    
    module SocketMount() {
    	
    	difference() {
    		translate([0,Mount[1]/2,Mount[2]/2])
    			cube(Mount,center=true);
    		
    		translate([0,Socket[1]/2,Socket[2]/2])
    			cube(Socket + [0,Protrusion,Protrusion],center=true);
    			
    		for (i=[-1,1])							// holes centered on socket, not mount
    			translate([i*ScrewOC/2,-Protrusion,Socket[2]/2])
    				rotate([-90,0,0])
    					rotate(180/6)
    						PolyCyl(ScrewTap,Mount[1] + 2*Protrusion,6);
    	}
    }
    
    //-- Totally ad-hoc drill guide to center holes on PS/2 cutout
    
    module DrillGuide() {
    	
    	union() {
    		intersection() {
    			translate([0,0,GuideLayers])
    				cube([2*Mount[0],2*Mount[1],2*GuideLayers],center=true);
    			translate([0,-Socket[2]/2,Mount[1]])
    				rotate([-90,0,0])
    					SocketMount();
    		}
    
    		translate([0,0,Protrusion])
    			linear_extrude(height=(3*GuideLayers - Protrusion)) {
    				circle(d=ChassisHole[0],$fn=8*4);
    				translate([-ChassisHole[0]/2,0])
    					square([ChassisHole[0],(ChassisHole[1] - ChassisHole[0]/2)],center=false);
    			}
    
    	}
    }
    
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Socket")
    	SocketMount();
    
    if (Layout == "Guide")
    	DrillGuide();
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([0,-Mount[2],0])
    		DrillGuide();
    	translate([0,0,Mount[1]])
    		rotate([-90,0,0])
    			SocketMount();
    }
    
  • Kenmore 158 LED Strip Lighting: Now With Improved Wiring!

    It Has Been Decided (in that place where what is decided must be) to allow a single hole in the sewing machine’s front panel:

    Kenmore 158 - Front LED strip - wire routing
    Kenmore 158 – Front LED strip – wire routing

    The hole barely passes the 2 mm coaxial cable I’m misusing for the LED strips and is located where it:

    • Clears the machine’s metal frame to the upper left
    • Isn’t blocked by the knob’s mounting bracket to the lower right
    • Doesn’t snag the knob’s cam followers all over the insides
    • Lines up directly below the orange dot for pretty

    The first three of those happen behind the front panel, inside the frame, where you (well, I) can neither see nor measure the locations. I used a large outside caliper to get a feel for where the hole could possibly fit, then got it right on the first try!

    On the rear panel, it turns out that the presser foot lever doesn’t quite touch the top of its slot in the frame, so the cable for those LED strips can sneak through:

    Kenmore 158 - Rear LED strips - wire routing
    Kenmore 158 – Rear LED strips – wire routing

    Just inside that slot, the cable turns right, passes into the endcap, then goes upward to re-emerge at the top, inside the channel used for the old 120 VAC zip cord that powered the incandescent bulb in the endcap.

    I had some square cable clips lying around, so I used them, but the (yet to be designed) round versions will look better.

    The grody frame tells you this is the crash test dummy machine I’m using to verify things before installing them in Mary’s machine.

    The improved cable routing required different hole positions in the LED strip mounts:

    Strip Light Mount - Drilled cable routing
    Strip Light Mount – Drilled cable routing

    The internal wire route follows the original 120 VAC zip cord’s route from the bottom of the machine to the endcap (on the left), with the new branch for the front LEDs curving over the main shaft:

    Kenmore 158 - LED strips - internal wire routing
    Kenmore 158 – LED strips – internal wire routing

    The four-conductor ribbon cable also carries the supply voltage for the yet-to-be-built high intensity LED emitters in the end cap that will replace the 10 mm LEDs, with the ends terminated under the clamp in the middle. Those old steel wire clamps seem grossly oversized for the job, but that’s OK with me.

    The ribbon cable eases past that whirling crank arm, then passes through the frame to the outside cover under the handwheel, where it just barely clears the drive belts. A few zip ties hold it out of the way.

    The OpenSCAD source code offsets the wiring holes by 0.5 mm from the ends of the LED strips for easier wire bending, but is otherwise pretty much the same as before:

    // LED Strip Lighting Brackets for Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - March 2014
    //  October 2014 - tweak endcap length & channel position
    
    Layout = "Build";			// Build Show Channels Strip
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    AlignPinOD = 1.70;			// assembly alignment pins: filament dia
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    LEDSegment = [25.0,10.0,3.0];		//  size of each LED segment
    SEGLENGTH = 0;
    SEGWIDTH = 1;
    SEGHEIGHT = 2;
    
    WireChannel = 3.0;				// wire routing channel diameter
    
    StripHeight = 12.0;				// sticky tape width
    
    DefaultLayout = [1,2,"Wire","NoWire"];
    NUMSEGS = 0;
    NUMSTRIPS = 1;
    WIRELEFT = 2;
    WIRERIGHT = 3;
    
    EndCapSides = 8*4;				// endcap smoothness
    EndCapShim = 0.5;				// additional space for easier wire bending
    
    function EndCapSize(Layout) = [(2*WireChannel + EndCapShim),Layout[NUMSTRIPS]*LEDSegment[SEGWIDTH],StripHeight];
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-- The negative space used to thread wires into the endcap
    
    module MakeWireChannel(Layout = DefaultLayout,Which = "Left") {
    
    	EndCap = EndCapSize(Layout);	// radii of end cap spheroid
    
    	HalfSpace = EndCap[0] * ((Which == "Left") ? 1 : -1);
    
    	render(convexity=2)
    	translate([0,LEDSegment[SEGWIDTH]/2,0])
    		intersection() {
    			union() {
    				cube([2*WireChannel,WireChannel,EndCap[2]],center=true);
    				translate([-2*EndCap[0],0,EndCap[2]/2])
    					rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
    						PolyCyl(WireChannel,4*EndCap[0],6);
    			}
    			translate([HalfSpace,0,(EndCap[2] - Protrusion)]) {
    				cube(2*EndCap,center=true);
    			}
    		}
    }
    
    //-- The whole strip, minus wiring channels
    
    module MakeStrip(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
    
    	EndCap = EndCapSize(Layout);	// radii of end cap spheroid
    
    	BarLength = Layout[NUMSEGS] * LEDSegment[SEGLENGTH];				// central bar length
    
    	echo(str("Strip OAL: ",BarLength + 2*EndCap[SEGLENGTH]));
    
    	hull()
    		difference() {
    			for (x = [-1,1])						// endcaps as spheroids
    				translate([x*BarLength/2,0,0])
    					resize(2*EndCap) rotate([0,90,0]) sphere(1.0,$fn=EndCapSides);
    			translate([0,0,-EndCap[2]])
    				cube([2*BarLength,3*EndCap[1],2*EndCap[2]],center=true);
    			translate([0,-EndCap[1],0])
    				cube([2*BarLength,2*EndCap[1],3*EndCap[2]],center=true);
    		}
    
    }
    
    //-- Cut wiring channels out of strip
    
    module MakeMount(Layout = DefaultLayout) {
    
    	BarLength = Layout[NUMSEGS] * LEDSegment[SEGLENGTH];
    
    	difference() {
    		MakeStrip(Layout);
    		if (Layout[WIRELEFT] == "Wire")
    			translate([(BarLength/2 + EndCapShim),0,0])
    				MakeWireChannel(Layout,"Left");
    		if (Layout[WIRERIGHT] == "Wire")
    			translate([-(BarLength/2 + EndCapShim),0,0])
    				MakeWireChannel(Layout,"Right");
    	}
    }
    
    //- Build it
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Channels") {
    	translate([ (2*WireChannel + 1.0),0,0]) MakeWireChannel(DefaultLayout,"Left");
    	translate([-(2*WireChannel + 1.0),0,0]) MakeWireChannel(DefaultLayout,"Right");
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Strip") {
    	MakeStrip(DefaultLayout);
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	MakeMount(DefaultLayout);
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    
    	if (false) {					// original no-drill wiring
    		translate([0,(3*LEDSegment[SEGWIDTH]),0]) MakeMount([1,2,"Wire","Wire"]);		// rear left side, vertical
    		translate([0,0,0]) MakeMount([5,2,"Wire","NoWire"]);				// rear top, across arm
    		translate([0,-(3*LEDSegment[SEGWIDTH]),0]) MakeMount([6,2,"NoWire","Wire"]);	// front top, across arm
    	}
    
    	if (true) {						// front: drill panel, rear: route through foot lift lever
    		translate([0,(3*LEDSegment[SEGWIDTH]),0])
    			MakeMount([1,2,"NoWire","Wire"]);				// rear left side, vertical
    		translate([0,0,0])
    			MakeMount([5,2,"Wire","Wire"]);					// rear top, across arm
    		translate([0,-(1*LEDSegment[SEGWIDTH]),0])
    			rotate(180)
    			MakeMount([6,2,"NoWire","Wire"]);				// front top, across arm
    	}
    }
    
  • Astable Multivibrator: Hairball Edition

    Just to show all those precisely machined enclosures and tidy hand-wired boards don’t count for much:

    Astable Multivibrator - as-built
    Astable Multivibrator – as-built

    The schematic again:

    Astable Multivibrator - as-built - simulation
    Astable Multivibrator – as-built – simulation

    It started with that idea and evolved slightly.

  • Motor RPM Sensor Mounting: Bracket Madness

    The first sensor bracket came from the scrap pile, but showed that it would produce 1/rev pulses from the motor shaft pulley. The positioning wasn’t quite right, so I made another bracket that put the TCRT5000 sensor at right angles to the pulley:

    TCTR5000 Motor RPM Sensor - end view
    TCTR5000 Motor RPM Sensor – end view

    All of the sensors have a rakish tilt over their PCB, so at some point I must resolder them:

    TCTR5000 Motor RPM Sensor - side view
    TCTR5000 Motor RPM Sensor – side view

    It might not matter, as the phototransistor on the left peers directly at the pulley, with the LED on the right acting as a floodlight.

    “Made another bracket” sounds like the metal sprang fully formed from the concept. Herewith, the early contestants atop a sketch and the flat layout for The Ultimate Bracket:

    Motor RPM Sensor Brackets
    Motor RPM Sensor Brackets

    A closer look at that final dimension sketch, because I’ll need it again:

    RPM Bracket Dimensions
    RPM Bracket Dimensions

    The vertical size of the center section (12 mm) sets the perpendicular distance of the sensor from the shaft. The horizontal size (14 mm) controls the pulley-to-sensor spacing.

    The horizontal distance from the center section to the hole on the right (10 mm) adjusts the sensor spacing parallel to the shaft.

    I cut the overall rectangle with tin snips, drilled & cleaned the holes, applied a nibbling tool to the details, trimmed the corners, filed off sharp edges & spines, and it was all good.

    The doodles for the first few attempts, as I don’t want to repeat those mistakes:

    Bracket Doodles
    Bracket Doodles

    All in all, a few more hours of Quality Shop Time than I expected…

  • Canon SX-230HS: Wasabi NB-5L Batteries

    Based on my good experience with the Wasabi NP-BX1 batteries, I also bought three Wasabi NB-5L batteries for my Canon SX-230HS pocket camera:

    Canon NB-5L - OEM Wasabi Misc - 2014-10-04
    Canon NB-5L – OEM Wasabi Misc – 2014-10-04

    Well, that’s not what I expected: the “new” Wasabi batteries perform worse than the three year old Canon OEM battery and no better than the crap batteries from eBay.

    Just to be sure, I ran two tests on each of the three new batteries. Unlike the NP-BX1 batteries, these deliver a lower voltage than the Canon OEM battery and have a much lower capacity. The camera cuts off at 3.5 V, so the new batteries deliver 2/3 the run time of the old OEM battery

    Sheesh…

    Tech support at Blue Nook (I am not making that up) says they’ll send me a couple of batteries from their next shipment to see if something’s wrong with this batch; all the batteries have date code BNF27.

  • Sony HDR-AS30V: More Wasabi NP-BX1 Batteries

    The Sony HDR-AS30V helmet camera can record about 5.5 h of 1920×1080 60 fps video on a 64 GB Micro-SD card, but a single NP-BX1 battery provides a 1.5 h run time, tops. Having had a good experience with the previous Wasabi batteries, I picked up three more and ran all six through the battery tester:

    Sony NP-BX1 - OEM Wasabi - 2014-10-03
    Sony NP-BX1 – OEM Wasabi – 2014-10-03

    The red curve is the Sony OEM battery, the two lower curves are the Wasabi batteries from January, and the upper three come from the new Wasabi batteries. All in all, they look good to me.

    These curves aren’t directly comparable to the older ones, as I’ve bumped the discharge to 500 mA to better match the actual camera load. These worked out to about two hours apiece, so the camera must draw around 600 or 700 mA.

    The Wasabi batteries deliver a higher voltage than the Sony OEM battery over nearly all of the discharge curve. The older ones delivered almost exactly the same run time, which leads me to believe the camera cuts off at 2.8 V, too, with a boost power supply extracting all the energy under the curve.

    I suppose a 1.5 h run time makes sense for downhill skiiing, but it’s painfully short for bike trips.

  • Sewing Machine RPM Sensing: Gun Bluing FTW!

    A quick-and-dirty bracket (made from a leftover strip in the pile of chassis clips) affixed an IR reflective sensor (based on the ubiquitous TCRT5000 module) to the sewing machine motor:

    TCRT5000 sensor on motor
    TCRT5000 sensor on motor

    That’s scribbling black Sharpie around the retroreflective tape for the laser tachometer, which worked just about as poorly as you’d expect. Retroreflective tape, by definition, reflects the light directly back at the LED, but in this case you want it bounced to the photosensor.

    An IR view shows the geometry and highlights the LED:

    TCRT5000 sensor - IR view
    TCRT5000 sensor – IR view

    The TCRT5000 datasheet suggests that the peak operating distance is 2.5 mm, roughly attained by tinkering with the bracket. The datasheet graph shows that anything between 1 and 5 mm should be just fine:

    IR Reflective Sensor module - TCRT5000 - response vs distance
    IR Reflective Sensor module – TCRT5000 – response vs distance

    Soooo, a bit of contrast improvement is in order:

    • Scrape off the tape
    • Remove adhesive and Sharpie with xylene
    • Scuff with sandpaper
    • Apply Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue gun bluing with a cotton swab
    • Buff with 0000 steel wool
    • Repeat
    • Apply stainless steel tape around half the circumference
    • Burnish flat

    Which looks pretty good:

    Kenmore 158 motor pulley - black-silver
    Kenmore 158 motor pulley – black-silver

    The stainless tape butts up against the setscrew:

    Kenmore 158 motor pulley - black-silver at setscrew
    Kenmore 158 motor pulley – black-silver at setscrew

    Adjusting the sensitivity midway between the point where the output is low (OFF) over the black and high (ON) over the tape seems reasonable.

    Running at the slowest possible speed produces this pulse train:

    Motor sense - min speed
    Motor sense – min speed

    The motor at 19 rev/s = 1140 RPM corresponds to about 2 rev/s of the sewing machine shaft= 2 stitch/s. Slower than, that, the pedal won’t go in simple open-loop mode.

    The setscrew causes those “glitches” on the rising edge. They look like this at a faster sweep:

    Motor sense - min speed - setscrew
    Motor sense – min speed – setscrew

    At maximum speed, the setscrew doesn’t show up:

    Motor sense - max speed
    Motor sense – max speed

    The motor at 174 rev/s = 10440 RPM would do 1000 stitch/s, but that’s just crazy talk: it runs at that speed with the handwheel clutch disengaged and the motor driving only the bobbin winder. I was holding the machine down with the shaft engaged and all the gimcrackery flailing around during that shot.

    The sensor board may have an internal glitch filter, but it’s hard to say: the eBay description has broken links to the circuit documentation.

    I could grind the setscrew flush with the pulley OD and cover it with tape, but that seems unreasonable. Fixing the glitch in firmware shouldn’t be too difficult: ignore a rising edge that occurs less than, say, 1/4 of the previous period following the previous edge.

    Perhaps buffing half the pulley’s circumference to a reasonable shine (minus the bluing) would eliminate the need for the stainless steel tape.

    Iterating the bluing operation / scrubbing with steel wool should produce a darker black, although two passes yields a nice flat black.