The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Sewing

Fabric arts and machines

  • Crosman BB Bottle Cap

    Crosman BB Bottle Cap

    Mary made a frame weight to maintain tension on the fabric in the HQ Sixteen longarm:

    Longarm fabric frame weight
    Longarm fabric frame weight

    It’s a sturdy cloth tube filled with BBs, somewhat like a grossly overweight door snake (a.k.a. draft stopper).

    The bottle of 6000 copper-plated steel BBs arrived in an overwrap bag of the sort Amazon applies to all bottled products. This was a Good Thing, because the scrap of packing paper did nothing to cushion the bottle in an otherwise empty box. The bag contained most of the shattered cap and a few BBs, with escapees rattling around inside the box and surely a few left along the way.

    So I conjured a replacement cap from TPU:

    Crosman BB bottle cap - solid model - build view
    Crosman BB bottle cap – solid model – build view

    It fits around the bottle neck and snaps onto the spout just like the original:

    Crosman BB bottle cap
    Crosman BB bottle cap

    Except this one is unbreakable.

    The strapless TPU cap was a quick test to verify the fiddly shoulder snapping onto the bottle snout:

    Crosman BB bottle cap - solid model - section view
    Crosman BB bottle cap – solid model – section view

    As it turned out, we poured all 6000 BBs (minus those few lost-in-transit strays) into the cloth tube, but the bottle will come in handy for something someday.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Crosman BB bottle cap
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2026-02-22
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build,Section]
    /* [Hidden] */
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 6*3*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    WallThick = 1.0;
    Heights = [1.2,2.0,13.0,WallThick]; // for easy tweaking
    Ring = [34.5,39,WallThick];
    Strap = [70.0,5.0,Ring[LENGTH]];
    CapOAL = sum(Heights);
    //—–
    // Conjure it with magic numbers
    module Cap() {
    tube(Heights[0],id=16.8,wall=WallThick+0.6/2,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    tube(Heights[1],id=17.4,wall=WallThick,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    tube(Heights[2],id1=17.4,id2=14.0,wall=WallThick,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    cyl(Heights[3],d=14.0+2*WallThick,rounding2=WallThick/2,anchor=BOTTOM) position(BOTTOM)
    cuboid(Strap,anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT) position(BOTTOM+RIGHT)
    left(1.0)
    tube(Ring[LENGTH],id=Ring[ID],od=Ring[OD],anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT);
    }
    //—–
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    Cap();
    }
    if (Layout == "Section") {
    difference() {
    Cap();
    down(Protrusion)
    cuboid(2*Strap.x,anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT+FRONT);
    }
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    back(Strap.x/2)
    zrot(90)
    up(CapOAL)
    yrot(180)
    Cap();
    }
  • HQ Sixteen: Fabric Rod Bearings

    HQ Sixteen: Fabric Rod Bearings

    The rods (a.k.a. tubes or poles) holding & guiding the quilt top / batting / backing fabric on Mary’s HQ Sixteen longarm quilting machine span the eleven feet of the table:

    HQ Sixteen - table overview
    HQ Sixteen – table overview

    The two end plates are 1/4 inch steel plate with four punched holes for the rods / tubes, which look remarkably like EMT. The machine is two decades old and Mary is (at least) the third owner, so it’s no surprise the rods long ago wore through the white powder-coat paint on the plates and, during the course of a long quilting project, now deposit black dust on the table.

    Black dust not being tolerable near a quilt-in-progress, Mary asked for an improvement.

    The tube OD is 28.7 mm (so it’s probably 1 inch EMT) and the plate hole ID is 31.2 mm (likely a scant 1-¼ inch punch), leaving barely a millimeter of clearance all around. I wanted to make a bearing from suitably slippery Delrin / acetal, but figured 3D printed PETG would suffice for at least while.

    The proper term is “bushing“, because it has no moving parts:

    Rod Bearing Sleeve - solid model - show view
    Rod Bearing Sleeve – solid model – show view

    On the right side, the bushing rim must fit between the sprockets and the plate:

    HQ Sixteen rod - right front
    HQ Sixteen rod – right front

    The spring-loaded pin holding the tube in place (visible on the inside bottom) sets the maximum length:

    HQ Sixteen rod - right outer
    HQ Sixteen rod – right outer

    The left side has none of that, so I made the bushings a little longer:

    HQ Sixteen rod - left inner
    HQ Sixteen rod – left inner

    The left-side bushings will need a better design should normal back-and-forth sliding push them out of place.

    A touch of silicone grease around the plate holes makes those bushings / bearings turn sooo smooth.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Bearing sleeve for HQ Sixteen table rods
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2026-02-20
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build]
    /* [Hidden] */
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 8*3*2*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    Rod = [25.0,28.7,100.0]; // very short rod
    Sleeve = [Rod[OD] + 0.3,31.2 – 0.2,9.0]; // LENGTH = overall
    Rim = [Sleeve[ID],Sleeve[OD] + 6.0,0.6];
    IdlerLength = 15.0;
    NumSlots = 2*4;
    Kerf = 1.0;
    Gap = 5.0;
    module Bearing(oal) {
    difference() {
    union() {
    tube(oal,id=Sleeve[ID],od=Sleeve[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
    tube(Rim[LENGTH],id=Rim[ID],od=Rim[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    for (a=[0:NumSlots-1])
    zrot(a*360/NumSlots)
    up(oal/4 + Rim[LENGTH])
    right(Sleeve[ID]/2)
    cuboid([Sleeve[OD],Kerf,oal],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    color("Gray",0.5)
    xcyl(Rod[LENGTH],d=Rod[OD]);
    right(Rod[LENGTH]/3)
    yrot(90)
    Bearing(Sleeve[LENGTH]);
    left(Rod[LENGTH]/3)
    yrot(90)
    Bearing(IdlerLength);
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    right(Rim[OD]/2 + Gap/2)
    Bearing(Sleeve[LENGTH]);
    left(Rim[OD]/2 + Gap/2)
    Bearing(IdlerLength);
    }
  • Wind Pants Zipper Tab Repair

    Wind Pants Zipper Tab Repair

    Unbelievably, the ankle zipper tab broke off in my hand:

    Wind Pants Zipper Tab - broken
    Wind Pants Zipper Tab – broken

    It’s one of those zippers where the tab releases a lock preventing the zipper from coming unzipped. Mary noped out of removing and replacing the entire zipper.

    Trimming a snippet of aluminum miniblind from the Small Box o’ Flat Stuff and two dots of JB Kwikweld epoxy seemed appropriate:

    Wind Pants Zipper Tab - clamping
    Wind Pants Zipper Tab – clamping

    Ugly, but serviceable:

    Wind Pants Zipper Tab - repaired
    Wind Pants Zipper Tab – repaired

    The stray epoxy scraped off under fingernail pressure over the next two days and the pants are ready for the next snowfall.

  • USB Charger: Safety FAIL

    USB Charger: Safety FAIL

    Mary reported a problem unplugging the USB charger powering the light pad (the successor to the pad I repaired) she uses for quilting layouts:

    USB Charger - as found
    USB Charger – as found

    Yes, that blade is sticking out of the hot (“Line”) side of the outlet.

    The only way into the charger was through its other end:

    USB charger - interior top
    USB charger – interior top

    Because I had no intention of returning it to service, I tried pushing the errant blade back in place, only to have it overshoot the mark and bulldoze various parts aside:

    USB charger - PCB blade contacts
    USB charger – PCB blade contacts

    The two upright shapes contact the blades, but do not lock them in place. The PCB pulled easily out of the case, with no objection from the remaining (“Neutral”) blade.

    The blades are simple steel bars press-fit into the plastic case, without holes / dimples / notches to lock them into the plastic. As far as I could tell, they were not molded in place.

    I tossed the corpse into the e-waste box, extracted another USB charger from the Box o’ USB Chargers and returned the light pad to service.

    I do have a few Genuine UL Listed USB chargers, but these are not among them.

  • Sewing Notions Drawer Pull Rethreading

    Sewing Notions Drawer Pull Rethreading

    A small sewing notions cabinet, once my mother’s, now holds some of Mary’s supplies and, a few days ago, had one of its drawer pulls fall off. While preemptively tightening all the screws, I found one no longer held onto its pull:

    Notions drawer pull - parts
    Notions drawer pull – parts

    They don’t make drawer pulls like that any more!

    As I see things, it can be forgiven for losing its grip after nearly a century.

    Thread the screw in as far as it will go and lay the pull flat on the bench vise anvil:

    Notions drawer pull - hammering setup
    Notions drawer pull – hammering setup

    A few gentle whacks with a pin punch on top and bottom, plus a tap on each side, compressed the pull’s remaining threads around & into the screw:

    Notions drawer pull - reshaped
    Notions drawer pull – reshaped

    Put it back in its drawer, snug the screw, and it’s all good.

    That should suffice for at least the remainder of its first century …

  • Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine: COB LEDs Redux

    Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine: COB LEDs Redux

    Having harvested the COB LED lighting from the Kenmore 158 Mary gave to a friend, I took advantage of a sewing pause to install the hardware on the 158 she now uses:

    Kenmore 158 - needle light detail
    Kenmore 158 – needle light detail

    That’s the sandblasted presser foot atop the original glare-y metal plates.

    For the record, this is inside the machine’s power connector:

    Kenmore 158 - power connector wiring
    Kenmore 158 – power connector wiring

    Power for the original glowworm incandescent light comes from the two rightmost terminals: 120 VAC switched by the machine’s power button. Those terminals now go to a new, much more flexy, cable for the 12 VDC power supply, with a step-up supply for the needle LEDs.

    An overview of the wire routing:

    Kenmore 158 - COB LED wire routing
    Kenmore 158 – COB LED wire routing

    There’s now a 9-pin JST SM connector between the repurposed serial cable and the LEDs, mostly so I can add another light bar to the front in the unlikely event it becomes necessary.

    The rear light bar wire once again burrows into the machine above the presser foot lever:

    Kenmore 158 - COB LED bar wire routing
    Kenmore 158 – COB LED bar wire routing

    All the LED wiring fans out through the endcap:

    Kenmore 158 - COB LED needle heatsink
    Kenmore 158 – COB LED needle heatsink

    You can just barely see the edge of the strip of LEDs epoxied to the bottom of the machine nose, on the right of the needle.

    If I were inclined to rebuild the needle LEDs, I’d use flexy silicone wiring instead of the Teflon insulated coax. The black insulation wouldn’t be nearly as pretty, but it’d be *way* easier to cut to length and solder.

    The patient survived the operation and sewing should resume shortly …

  • HQ Sixteen: Under-arm Lights

    HQ Sixteen: Under-arm Lights

    With the nose ring lights in place, I soldered up eight more 24 V LED strips to light the quilt under the HQ Sixteen’s arm:

    HQ Sixteen - under-arm lights - bottom view
    HQ Sixteen – under-arm lights – bottom view

    A simple fixture aligned the strips for soldering:

    HQ Sixteen - under-arm lights - soldering fixture
    HQ Sixteen – under-arm lights – soldering fixture

    I intended to peel the masking tape off the glossy cardboard, then use it to keep the strips aligned while I pressed the PSA adhesive on the back of the strips to the machine. The silicone molded over the LEDS turned out to be supremely un-stick-able to the tape and the strips got far more handling than I planned, but I think the adhesive will work.

    The cable from the power supply now has a pair of JST SM connectors on the end. Although crimping two conductors into the same pin is not good practice, all 14 of the LED strips draw an aggregate of maybe 130 mA, so I think it’ll suffice.

    The JST connectors hide behind the ribbon cable going to the machine’s front panel, so there’s not a lot of basis for arguing they’re unsightly:

    HQ Sixteen - under-arm lights - side view
    HQ Sixteen – under-arm lights – side view

    The finished part of the quilt passes under the bottom bar on the left (the rear of the machine table) and forms an ever-increasing roll around the top bar; the white fabric leader attaches to the edge of the quilt. The LED strips illuminate the in-progress part of the quilt under the arm and should be far enough forward to not snag on the rolled-up finished part.

    I think there’s now enough light to work with:

    HQ Sixteen - under-arm lights - top view
    HQ Sixteen – under-arm lights – top view

    We recently decided the motor stall Heisenbug has vanished, perhaps due to my re-soldering the motor power supply components on the PCB. It’s hard to tell with Heisenbugs, but sometimes they decohere into a desirable state.

    After the better part of a year, Mary’s vintage HQ Sixteen runs better than new!

    A blog search unearths an extensive project in reverse chronologic order.