Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Tag: Improvements
Making the world a better place, one piece at a time
Tweaking the Arduino program to fire the LED 10 ms after the beam breaks, then fire the Xenon strobe 180 ms later produces this result:
Drop test – ISO 800 – 100 ms f8 – overexposure
Obviously, that’s far too much light: ISO 800, 1/10 sec, f/8, with the flash a few inches from the action. There aren’t many free variables:
Shutter must be open long enough to span the timing jitter
Aperture is already as small as it gets for good depth of focus
ISO speed may be too high
Flash intensity is fixed for a given capacitor
Throwing a shop rag over the flash helps a bit, capturing the ruler suspended in mid-air:
Drop test – ISO 800 – 100 ms f8 – cloth
However, replacing the 250 µF electrolytic flash capacitor with a 1 µF film cap reduces the stored energy by roughly an order of magnitude and reduces the flash pulse duration to about 100 µs.
The bottom two inches of the ruler now have lighting from the flash, while the rest of the image looks pretty good in natural light:
Drop test – ISO 800 – 100 ms f8 – 1 uF
It turns out that having the laser and photodiode beam-break sensor within the view (the white ring at the top) doesn’t work, as the CHDK motion detector will notice the red spot on the ruler and trigger the shutter before the LED (clipped to the right of the vertical steel scale) flashes.
Several more trials showed that the flash fires consistently, but (as expected) the shutter triggering has some jitter. In this case, the shutter remained open after the flash and captured a blurred image as the ruler continued to fall:
Drop test – ISO 800 – 100 ms f8 – tail
Here, the shutter closed immediately after the flash, eliminating the blurred tail:
Drop test – ISO 800 – 100 ms f8 – no tail
Having the shutter close before the object reaches the bottom of the image is a Bad Thing, as it means the shutter triggered too early.
In both cases, the sharp image of the ruler overlays the blurred image captured in natural light. That’s more visible toward the top of the picture where the flash doesn’t reach very well.
I aligned the laser beam-break detector at 200 mm on the scale and the flash fired when the tip of the ruler was at 390 mm = 190 mm below the beam. The LED blinked 10 ms after the beam break and the Xenon flash fired at 180 ms; given all the vagaries involved, 190 mm is just about spot on the (revised) estimates.
Some trial fitting with the prototype showed that there’s no possible way to route the connections through the socket, no matter how much I wanted that to happen, so I rotated the body to align the LEDs with the socket pin slots:
Sears Lamp LED Adapter – Show view
The body now builds with the flat end down, so the overall finish should be better:
Sears Lamp LED Adapter – Build view
A test run shows why I really, really wanted cool white LEDs in the strips over the arm:
Kenmore 158 Sewing Machine – mixed LED lighting
The LED mount doesn’t have quite enough room inside the end cap for the holder to tilt as I wanted; the two 10 mm LEDs can be about 10 mm lower and slightly closer to the shaft driving the needle, which is what this rapid prototyping stuff is all about. Scrapping the existing lamp socket and (120 VAC!) wiring seems the best way to make this more useful.
Early reports on the arm LEDs indicate a requirement for more light, so the next iteration of those mounts will put two strips side-by-side…
Solder pretty cable with silver plating on the braid (it’s probably mil-spec Teflon dielectric RG-174 coaxial cable) to the LEDs
Conjure a coax power connector and wall wart
Apply foam squares to mounts
Affix to sewing machine
The front LEDs have a jaunty angle along the bottom of the plastic panel:
Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine – LED Lights – front
You can see why I want cool-white LEDs, rather than these warm-white ones, to match the daylight from the window to the right. The wash of orange light from the incandescent bulb inside the end bell has got to go, too.
The rear LEDs over the arm may be slightly too close to the opening:
Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine – LED Lights – rear
The single-segment strip on the side provides a bit more light for the needle across the opening:
Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine – LED Lights – rear detail
Now, I’ll grant you that the strips of of black Gorilla Tape aren’t particularly attractive, but the intent here is to find out whether the LEDs produce enough light, don’t snag the quilt, and generally meet requirements.
My old Thing-O-Matic has new life as the Frank-O-Squid at Squidwrench Galactic HQ, with all the original Makerbot electronics replaced by an Azteeg X3 controller. Over the last several weeks I’ve coaxed it into doing most of the right things at the proper speeds & feeds, so we can now move on to actually making stuff:
Frank-o-Squid in action
The warping on that little digital caliper thumbwheel holder show that I don’t have the tiny-object slowdown settings quite correct, but it’s getting close.
The Marlin firmware is on GitHub. I intended to set it up so that pulling changes from upstream Marlin would be easy, but totally blundered something along the way. I’ll eventually plug the changes from Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, and pins.h into a clean branch and start over, but, for now, we’re slowly diverging from consensus reality.
Although the platform still has the Z-min switch over on the right edge, neither the firmware nor Slic3r pay any attention to it. A stub in the startup G-Code sequence does a head fake toward the switch, but doesn’t actually probe it.
I scrapped the original craptastic Makerbot ATX power supply and replaced it with Makergear’s huge 12 V laptop brick that powered the original M2 platform, so the thermal switches on the extruder no longer do anything useful; it’s running bare, pretty much like all other 3D printers.
The Slic3r configuration exports thusly:
# generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC1 on Mon Mar 3 07:48:29 2014
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_size = 105,120
bed_temperature = 100
bottom_solid_layers = 3
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 40
brim_width = 1.0
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
default_acceleration = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 1000
duplicate = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
duplicate_grid = 1,1
end_gcode = ;---- end.gcode starts ----\n; TOM 286 - Al plates + Geared extruder\n; Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - January 2014\n; Marlin with tweaks for Azteeg X3 with thermocouple\n;- inhale filament blob\nG91\nG1 E-5 F900\nG90\n;- turn off heaters\nM104 S0 ; extruder head\nM140 S0 ; HBP\n;- move to eject position\nG0 Z115 F1000 ; home Z to get nozzle away from object\n;G92 Z115 ; reset Z\nG1 X0 F6000 ; center X axis\nG1 Y35 ; move Y stage forward\n;---- end.gcode ends ----
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 0.95
extrusion_width = 0.50
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 1
filament_diameter = 2.95
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 0.15
fill_pattern = honeycomb
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 100
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.50
first_layer_height = 0.25
first_layer_speed = 10
first_layer_temperature = 210
g0 = 0
gap_fill_speed = 30
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 2
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0.50
infill_first = 1
infill_only_where_needed = 1
infill_speed = 50
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.25
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 3
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.50
perimeter_speed = 30
perimeters = 1
post_process =
print_center = 0,0
raft_layers = 0
randomize_start = 1
resolution = 0.05
retract_before_travel = 0.0
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 0.75
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 30
rotate = 0
scale = 1
skirt_distance = 2
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 30
small_perimeter_speed = 50%
solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
solid_infill_below_area = 5
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.50
solid_infill_speed = 150%
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_gcode = ;---- start.gcode begins ----\n; TOM 286 - Al plates + Geared extruder + Zmin platform sense\n; Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - January 2014\n; Marlin with tweaks for Azteeg X3 with thermocouple\n;\n; Set initial conditions\nG21 ; set units to mm\nG90 ; set positioning to absolute\n;----------\n; Begin heating\nM104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; extruder head\nM140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start bed heating\n;----------\n; Home axes\nG28 X0 Y0 Z0\nG92 X-53.5 Y-58.5 Z114.5\n;----------\n; Initial nozzle wipe to clear snot for Z touchoff\nG1 X0 Y0 Z3.0 F1000 ; pause at center to build confidence\nG4 P1000\nG1 Z10 ; ensure clearance\nG1 X39 Y-58.0 F1000 ; move to front, avoid wiper blade\nG1 X55 ; to wipe station\nG1 Z6.0 ; to wipe level\nM116 ; wait for temperature settling\nG1 Y-45 F500 ; slowly wipe nozzle\n;-----------------------------------------------\n; Z platform height touchoff\n; Make sure the XY position is actually over the switch!\n; Home Z downward to platform switch\n; Compensate for 0.05 mm backlash in G92: make it 0.05 too low\nG1 X56.0 Y8.2 F5000\nG1 Z4.0 F1000 ; get over build platform switch\n;G1 Z0 F50 ; home downward very slowly\n;G92 Z1.45 ; set Z-min switch height\nG1 Z6.0 F1000 ; back off switch to wipe level\n;-----------------------------------------------\n; Prime extruder to stabilize initial pressure\nG1 X55 Y-45 F5000 ; set up for wipe from rear\nG1 Y-58.0 F500 ; wipe to front\nG91 ; use incremental motion for extrusion\nG1 F100 ; set decent rate\nG1 E10 ; extrude enough to get good pressure\nG1 F2000 ; set for fast retract\nG1 E-1.0 ; retract\nG90 ; back to absolute motion\nG1 Y-45 F1000 ; wipe nozzle to rear\n;----------\n; Set up for Skirt start in right front corner\n; Compensate for Z backlash: move upward from zero point\nG1 X40 Y-40 F5000\nG1 Z0.0 F1000 ; kiss platform\nG1 Z0.2 F1000 ; take up Z backlash to less than thread height\n;G92 E1.0 ; preset to avoid huge un-Reversal blob\n;G1 X0 Y0\n;---- start.gcode ends ----
start_perimeters_at_concave_points = 1
start_perimeters_at_non_overhang = 1
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0.50
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_pattern = honeycomb
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_threshold = 0
temperature = 210
thin_walls = 1
threads = 2
toolchange_gcode =
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.50
top_solid_infill_speed = 50%
top_solid_layers = 3
travel_speed = 150
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
vibration_limit = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
All of that should become three TOM286 - Default sub-profiles.
The Pronterface configuration looks like this:
set port /dev/ttyUSB0
set monitor True
set last_bed_temperature 100.0
set last_temperature 210.0
set baudrate 115200
set temperature_abs 210
set xy_feedrate 5000
set z_feedrate 1000
set build_dimensions 110.00x120.00x117.00+0.00+0.00+0.00+0.00+0.00+0.00
set extruders 1
set slic3rintegration True
set tempgauges True
set preview_extrusion_width 0.4
set e_feedrate 100
set last_extrusion 3
set last_file_path /home/ed/Documents/Thing-O-Matic/Calibration/Thread Thickness
set recentfiles ["/home/ed/Documents/Thing-O-Matic/Calibration/Thread Thickness/Caliper Thumbwheel Holder.gcode", "/home/ed/Documents/Thing-O-Matic/Calibration/Thread Thickness/Thinwall Open Box.gcode", "/home/ed/Documents/Thing-O-Matic/Calibration/Thread Thickness/Platform Level.gcode", "/home/ed/Documents/Thing-O-Matic/Calibration/Circle Diameter Calibration/Small Circle Cal - M2 0.2 mm.gcode", "/home/ed/Documents/Thing-O-Matic/Calibration/Circle Diameter Calibration/Small Circle Cal - TOM.gcode"]
As you can see, it’s all running from a directory on my old laptop. The next step involves migrating everything to a dedicated PC next to the printer, so nobody else need worry about this stuff…
No snagging on a bulky quilt shoved through the machine
Not completely butt-ugly
Reasonably durable
I picked up reels of cool-white and warm-white waterproof LED strips (12 V, 3528-size chips, 5 m, 600 LED, 25 mm segments) from the usual eBay supplier, who promptly charged for both and shipped only the warm-white reel. Cool-white LEDs will be a better color match to daylight from the window and the little Ottlite she uses for detail work, but I ran some prototypes while we wait for the replacement.
The Chinese New Year really comes in handy as an excuse for screwing things up and not responding for a week or two. ‘Nuff said.
They’re similar to the RGB LEDs from a while ago, with even gummier “waterproof” encapsulation. I got double-density 600 LED strips to put more light emitters across the arm:
Various LED strip lights
The smaller 3528 SMD LEDs (vs. 5050 chips in the others) allow a narrower strip and the double-density layout means each three-LED segment is half as long long. The as-measured dimensions work out to:
25.0 mm segment length
8.2 mm strip width
2.5 mm thickness
The sealant thickness varies considerably, so I’d allow 3.0 mm for that in case it mattered. It slobbers over the edge of the strip here and there; allowing at least 9.0 mm would be wise.
The SMD resistor in each segment is 150 Ω. A 5 segment length drew 85 mA @ 12 V = 17 mA/segment. Boosting the voltage to 12.8 V got the current to the expected 100 mA = 20 mA/segment.
The LEDs are noticeably less bright than the 5050 LEDs, even at 20 mA/segment, but I think they’ll suffice for the task.
Removing the camera’s front cover (stick the screws to a length of masking tape!) reveals the backup battery hasn’t magically healed itself:
Casio EX-Z850 backup battery – corrosion
The main battery applies 3.2 V with the top terminal negative; it’s marked to help me remember that fact.
I snipped both legs of the top contact bracket, which promptly fell off, and then pushed the battery off its bottom contact. The condition of those two pads suggests a pair of cold solder joints (clicky for more dots):
Casio EX-Z850 backup battery – contact pads
I wanted to replace it with a polyacene supercap, but there’s just not enough room in there. The biggest cap that fit was a 33 μF 16 V SMD electrolytic cap, so I soldered one in place:
I had to flip the camera around to get the soldering iron in between the cap and what looks to be an intrusion monitoring switch just to its left. No lie, that shiny metal thing seems to be a tab that presses against the front cover; it could be a static discharge / grounding point, but the base looks more complex than that.
Now, a capacitor isn’t a battery, but memory backup doesn’t require much of a battery, either. I guesstimated the memory (or whatever) would draw a few microamps, at most, giving me a few seconds, at least, to swap batteries. A quick measurement shows that I’ll have plenty of time:
Casio EX-X850 backup capacitor – voltage vs time
The camera started up fine after that adventure, so the memory stays valid with the backup voltage down around 1 V.
The cap measured 34 μF, so a voltage decline of 24 mV/s works out to:
IC = C (dV/dT) = 34 μF x 24 mV/s = 820 nA
So, at least at room temperature, the memory draws less than a microamp.
I love it when a plan comes together!
With any luck, that capacitor should outlast the rest of the camera. It’ll definitely outlast a lithium battery, even if I could find one to fit in that spot.
I did those measurements by sampling the capacitor, rather than holding the meter probes in place, because the300 nA of current drawn by a 10 MΩ input resistance would cause a pretty large measurement error…
Cleaning up the wrecked gears on the can opener made it painfully obvious that I had to conjure at least one gear to get the poor thing working again:
Can opener – gears and cutters
Fortunately, those are more in the line of cogs, rather than real gears, so I decided a crude hack would suffice: drill a pattern of holes to define the openings between the teeth, file / grind the teeth reasonably smooth, and then tweak the shape to suit.
Fitting some small number-size drills between the remains of the teeth showed:
A #52 = 52.0 mil = 1.32 mm drill matched the root curvature
A #28 = 140.5 mil = 3.57 mm drill was tangent to the small drill and the tooth walls
Neither of those count as precision measurements, particularly given the ruined teeth, but they’re close enough for a first pass.
The OEM drive gear (on the right) has the teeth bent upward to mate with the cutter gear (on the left), but under normal gripping force, the teeth don’t mesh securely and tend to slide over / under / past each other. However, if I were to cut the drive gear from a metal sheet that’s thick enough to engage both the root and the crest of the cutter gear, that should prevent all the slipping & sliding. Some eyeballometric guesstimation suggested 2.5 mm would be about right and the Basement Laboratory Stockpile produced a small slab of 100 mil = 2.54 mm aluminum sheet.
However, the center part of the gear must have the same thickness as the OEM gear to keep the drive wheel at the same position relative to the cutter blade, which means a bit of pocket milling. I have some small ball burrs that seemed like they might come in handy.
A recent thread on the LinuxCNC mailing list announced Bertho Stultien’s gcmc, the G-Code Meta Compiler, and this looked like a golden opportunity to try it out. Basically, gcmc lets you write G-Code programs in a C-like language that eliminates nearly all the horrendous syntactic noise of raw G-Code. I like it a lot and you’ll be seeing more of it around here…
The gcmc source code, down below, include a function that handles automatic tool height probing, using that simple white-goods switch. The literal() function emits whatever you hand it as text for the G-Code file, which is how you mechanize esoteric commands that gcmc doesn’t include in its repertoire. It’s basically the same as my bare G-Code probe routine, but now maintains a state variable that eliminates the need for separate first-probe and subsequent-probe entry points.
One point that tripped me up, even though I should know better: because gcmc is a compiler, it can’t read G-Code parameters that exist only when LinuxCNC (or whatever) is interpreting the G-Code. You can write parameters with values computed at compile time, but you can’t read and process them in the gcmc program.
Anyhow, the first pass produced an array of holes that, as I fully expected, weren’t quite right:
Can opener gear – first hole pattern
The second pass got the root and middle holes tangent to each other:
Can opener gear – second hole pattern
It also ran a center drill pass for those tiny little holes to prevent their drill from wandering about. The other drills are about the same size as the center drill, so they’re on their own.
The rosette around the central hole comes from sweeping the burr in a dozen overlapping circles tangent to the outer diameter, then making a cleanup pass around the OD:
Can opener gear – 12 leaf rosette
Incidentally, that stray hole between the two patterns came from the aluminum sheet’s previous life, whatever it may have been. There are three other holes, two of which had flat washers taped to them, so your guess is as good as mine. That’s my story and I’m sticking with it.
Introducing the sheet to Mr Bandsaw and cutting through the outer ring produced a bizarre snowflake:
Can opener gear – cut out
Cutting off the outer ring of holes turned the incipient gear body into a ragged shuriken:
Can opener gear – isolated
A few minutes of increasingly deft Dremel cutoff wheel work, poised on the bench vise over the shopvac nozzle to capture the dust, produced a credible gear shape:
Can opener gear – first pass
Iterating through some trial fits, re-grinds, and general fiddling showed that the center pocket was too shallow. The cutter wheel should slightly clear the drive wheel, but it’s an interference fit:
Can opener gear – trial fit
Which, of course, meant that I had to clamp the [mumble] thing back in the Sherline and re-mill the pocket. The trick is to impale it on the wrong end of a suitable drill, clamp it down, and touch off that spot as the origin:
Can opener gear – re-centering
I took the opportunity to switch to a smaller ball and make 16 little circles to clear the pocket:
Can Opener Gear – 16 leaf rosette
Now that’s better:
Can opener gear – deeper pocket
Another trial fit showed that everything ended up in the right place:
Can opener gear – final fit
I gave it a few cranks, touched up any cogs that clashed with the (still misshapen) cutter gear, applied it to a randomly chosen can, and it worked perfectly:
Squeeze the levers to easily punch through the lid
Crankety crank on the handle, while experiencing none of the previous drama
The severed lid falls into the can
Which is exactly how it’s supposed to work. What’s so hard about that?
What you can’t see in that picture is the crest of the lowest cutter gear tooth fitting just above the bottom of the drive gear root. Similarly, the crest of the highest drive gear tooth remains slightly above the cutter root. That means the cutter gear teeth always engage the drive gear, there’s no slipping & sliding, and it’s all good.
Aluminum isn’t the right material for a gear-like object meshed with a steel counterpart, but it’s easy to machine on a Sherline. I’ll run off a few more for show-n-tell and, if when this one fails, I’ll have backup.
The gcmc source code:
// Can opener drive gears
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - February 2014
// Sherline CNC mill with tool height probe
// XYZ touchoff origin at center on fixture surface
DO_DRILLCENTER = 1;
DO_MILLCENTER = 1;
DO_DRILLINNER = 1;
DO_DRILLOUTER = 1;
DO_DRILLTIPS = 1;
//----------
// Overall dimensions
GearThick = 2.54; // overall gear thickness
GearCenterThick = 1.75; // thickness of gear center
GearTeeth = 12; // number of teeth!
ToothAngle = 360deg/GearTeeth;
GearOD = 22.0; // tooth tip
GearID = 13.25; // tooth root
SafeZ = 20.0; // guaranteed to clear clamps
TravelZ = GearThick + 1.0; // guaranteed to clear plate
//----------
// Tool height probe
// Sets G43.1 tool offset in G-Code, so our Z=0 coordinate always indicates the touchoff position
ProbeInit = 0; // 0 = not initialized, 1 = initialized
ProbeSpeed = 400.0mm;
ProbeRetract = 1.0mm;
PROBE_STAY = 0; // remain at probe station
PROBE_RESTORE = 1; // return to previous location after probe
function ProbeTool(RestorePos) {
local WhereWasI;
WhereWasI = position();
if (ProbeInit == 0) { // probe with existing tool to set Z=0 as touched off
ProbeInit++;
literal("#<_Probe_Speed> = ",to_none(ProbeSpeed),"\n");
literal("#<_Probe_Retract> = ",to_none(ProbeRetract),"\n");
literal("#<_ToolRefZ> = 0.0 \t; prepare for first probe\n");
ProbeTool(PROBE_STAY);
literal("#<_ToolRefZ> = #5063 \t; save touchoff probe point\n");
literal("G43.1 Z0.0 \t; set zero offset = initial touchoff\n");
}
elif (ProbeInit == 1) { // probe with new tool, adjust offset accordingly
literal("G49 \t; clear tool length comp\n");
literal("G30 \t; move over probe switch\n");
literal("G59.3 \t; use coord system 9\n");
literal("G38.2 Z0 F#<_Probe_Speed> \t; trip switch on the way down\n");
literal("G0 Z[#5063 + #<_Probe_Retract>] \t; back off the switch\n");
literal("G38.2 Z0 F[#<_Probe_Speed> / 10] \t; trip switch slowly\n");
literal("#<_ToolZ> = #5063 \t; save new tool length\n");
literal("G43.1 Z[#<_ToolZ> - #<_ToolRefZ>] \t; set new length\n");
literal("G54 \t; return to coord system 0\n");
literal("G30 \t; return to safe level\n");
}
else {
error("*** ProbeTool sees invalid ProbeInit: ",ProbeInit);
comment("debug,*** ProbeTool sees invalid ProbeInit: ",ProbeInit);
ProbeInit = 0;
}
if (RestorePos == PROBE_RESTORE) {
goto(WhereWasI);
}
}
//----------
// Utility functions
function WaitForContinue(MsgStr) {
comment(MsgStr);
pause();
}
function CueToolChange(MsgStr) {
literal("G0 Z" + SafeZ + "\n");
literal("G30\n");
WaitForContinue(MsgStr);
}
function ToolChange(Info,Name) {
CueToolChange("msg,Insert " + to_mm(Info[TOOL_DIA]) + " = " + to_in(Info[TOOL_DIA]) + " " + Name);
ProbeTool(PROBE_STAY);
WaitForContinue("msg,Set spindle to " + Info[TOOL_SPEED] + " rpm");
feedrate(Info[TOOL_FEED]);
}
function GetAir() {
goto([-,-,SafeZ]);
}
//-- compute drill speeds & feeds based on diameter
// rule of thumb is 100 x diameter at 3000 rpm for real milling machines
// my little Sherline's Z axis can't produce enough thrust for that!
MaxZFeed = 600.0mm; // fastest possible Z feed
TOOL_DIA = 0; // Indexes into DrillParam() result
TOOL_SPEED = 1; // spindle RPM
TOOL_FEED = 2; // linear feed
TOOL_TIP = 3; // length of 118 degreee drill tip
function DrillParam(Dia) {
local RPM,Feed,Tip,Data,Derating;
Derating = 0.25; // derate from (100 x diameter) max feed
RPM = 3000.0; // default 3 k rpm
Feed = Derating * (100.0 * Dia);
if (Feed > MaxZFeed) {
RPM *= (MaxZFeed / Feed); // scale speed downward to fit
Feed = MaxZFeed;
}
Tip = (Dia/2) * tan(90deg - 118deg/2);
Data = [Dia,RPM,Feed,Tip];
message("DrillParam: ",Data);
return Data;
}
//-- peck drilling cycle
function PeckDrill(Endpt,Retract,Peck) {
literal("G83 X",to_none(Endpt[0])," Y",to_none(Endpt[1])," Z",to_none(Endpt[2]),
" R",to_none(Retract)," Q",to_none(Peck),"\n");
}
//----------
// Make it happen
literal("G99\t; retract to R level, not previous Z\n");
WaitForContinue("msg,Verify: G30 position in G54 above tool change switch?");
WaitForContinue("msg,Verify: fixture origin XY touched off at center of gear?");
WaitForContinue("msg,Verify: Z touched off on top surface at " + GearThick + "?");
ProbeTool(PROBE_STAY);
//-- Drill center hole
if (DO_DRILLCENTER) {
DrillData = DrillParam(5.0mm);
ToolChange(DrillData,"drill");
goto([0,0,-]);
goto([-,-,TravelZ]);
drill([0,0,-1.5*DrillData[TOOL_TIP]],TravelZ,DrillData[TOOL_DIA]);
GetAir();
}
//-- Drill inner ring
if (DO_DRILLINNER) {
DrillData = DrillParam(1.32mm);
RingRadius = GearID/2.0 + DrillData[TOOL_DIA]/2.0; // center of inner ring holes
HolePosition = [RingRadius,0mm,-1.5*DrillData[TOOL_TIP]];
// but first, center-drill to prevent drifting
CDData = DrillParam(1.00mm); // pretend it's a little drill
CDData[TOOL_FEED] = 100mm; // ... use faster feed
CDPosition = HolePosition; // use center drill coordinates
CDPosition[2] = GearThick - 0.25mm; // ... just below surface
ToolChange(CDData,"center drill");
goto([0,0,-]);
goto([-,-,TravelZ]);
for (Tooth = 0 ; Tooth < GearTeeth ; Tooth++) {
drill(CDPosition,TravelZ,2*TravelZ); // large increment ensures one stroke
CDPosition = rotate_xy(CDPosition,ToothAngle);
}
// now drill the holes
ToolChange(DrillData,"drill");
goto([0,0,-]);
goto([-,-,TravelZ]);
for (Tooth = 0 ; Tooth < GearTeeth ; Tooth++) {
PeckDrill(HolePosition,TravelZ,DrillData[TOOL_DIA]);
HolePosition = rotate_xy(HolePosition,ToothAngle);
}
GetAir();
}
//-- Mill center recess
if (DO_MILLCENTER) {
MillData = [4.50mm,3000,250.0mm,0.0mm]; // spherical ball burr
Delta = GearThick - GearCenterThick; // depth to be milled away
Inset = sqrt(2.0*Delta*(MillData[TOOL_DIA]/2) - pow(Delta,2)); // toll axis to milled edge
ToolChange(MillData,"ball burr");
goto([0,0,-]); // above central hole
goto([0,0,GearThick]); // vertically down to flush with surface
move([0,0,GearCenterThick]); // into gear blank
for (Angle = 0.0deg; Angle < 360.0deg; Angle+=360.0deg/16) { // clear interior
circle_cw((GearID/2 - Inset)/2,Angle);
}
move_r([(GearID/2 - Inset),0.0,0.0]); // clean rim
circle_ccw([0.0,0.0,GearCenterThick],2);
GetAir();
}
//-- Drill outer ring
if (DO_DRILLOUTER) {
RingRadius += DrillData[TOOL_DIA]/2; // at OD of inner ring holes
DrillData = DrillParam(3.18mm);
RingRadius += DrillData[TOOL_DIA]/2.0; // center of outer ring holes
HolePosition = [RingRadius,0mm,-1.5*DrillData[TOOL_TIP]];
ToolChange(DrillData,"drill");
for (Tooth = 0 ; Tooth < GearTeeth ; Tooth++) {
PeckDrill(HolePosition,TravelZ,DrillData[TOOL_DIA]);
HolePosition = rotate_xy(HolePosition,ToothAngle);
}
GetAir();
}
//-- Drill to locate gear tooth tip end
if (DO_DRILLTIPS) {
DrillData = DrillParam(4.22mm);
RingRadius = GearOD/2.0 + DrillData[TOOL_DIA]/2.0; // tangent to gear tooth tip
HolePosition = [RingRadius,0mm,-1.5*DrillData[TOOL_TIP]];
HolePosition = rotate_xy(HolePosition,ToothAngle/2); // align to tooth
ToolChange(DrillData,"drill");
for (Tooth = 0 ; Tooth < GearTeeth ; Tooth++) {
PeckDrill(HolePosition,TravelZ,DrillData[TOOL_DIA]);
HolePosition = rotate_xy(HolePosition,ToothAngle);
}
GetAir();
}
literal("G30\n");
comment("msg,Done!");
The original doodle that suggested the possibility:
Can Opener Gears – Doodle 1
The chord equation at the bottom shows how to calculate the offset for the ball burr, although it turns out there’s no good way to measure the cutting diameter of the burr and it’s not really spherical anyway.
A more detailed doodle with the key line at a totally bogus angle:
Can Opener Gears – Doodle 2
The diagram in the lower right corner shows how you figure the length of the tip on a 118° drill point, which you add to the thickness of the plate in order to get a clean hole.